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Thread: E46 rear subframe into e36

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    E46 rear subframe into e36

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    BradR127 is offline Drip Loop Squad BMW CCA Member
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    With all the known E46 rear subframe issues, why on earth would you want to use it?

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    Well ladies and gentleman, that does not sound like a positive note!?

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    try it. write a DIY, then comment in 15k miles. THen I'll want to do it too
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    How much wider of a track is the e46 than an e36?
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    I'd be interested in swapping an e46 rear end into my e36 . I'd like to know what I'll need to get it done though.

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    SLR is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    E46 and E36 rear suspension is nearly identical. Functionally it is exactly the same.

    Also the E46 subframe is NOT aluminum. And if you want the aluminum arms on your E36 just bolt them on. They are same length and interchange.

    You can even run E46 traling links on E36 cars but there's little point since it's basically the same part. The E46 wider track comes from all the pickup points being slighty wider. If you want a wider track on an E36 get spacers or lower offset wheels.

    It's about 5000% less work

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    Quote Originally Posted by wanganstyle View Post
    Wondering if anyone has tried fitting a e46 rear subframe into an e36?

    Install with diff, axels, hubs, entire rear end really- get the aluminum subframe and arms and wide track- then add blister fenders
    The differential will not fit. Even though it is a 188mm size, it is shorter in overall length than the 188mm that came on the E36 and earlier cars. The early 188's used a longer pinion.
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    SLR is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    If you put a E46 subframe in your E36, you will just have a bunch of toe-in on the rear wheels.

    Also what does RHD have to do with racing?

    The tubular subframe was probably cheaper to produce, that's why BMW switched.

    The only suspension loads that the subframe receives are between the forward mounting points which have gussets and are the strongest points on either subframe.

    You say you want a 210mm, but you dont want the limited ratios of the Euro E36 210mm?? All 210mm gears are interchangeable within 210mm cases. If you want a 210mm in an E36 just get the E46 M3 diff and use an E34 cover with the proper bracket + remove the front mount on the E36 subframe and weld the right piece in.

    http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...28&hg=33&fg=10

    ^part 17 in the diagram is what you need for an E34 210mm to work in an E36 and you just weld a plate for the front bolt to go through. Did exactly that on my friends LS7 E36.

    Oh and what kinda power you shooting for anyway? Lots of people put 400-500 hp through the 188mm with no problems.

    Spend your time doing things on the car that will make a difference.

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    Last edited by wanganstyle; 03-02-2021 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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    SLR is offline Senior Member Supporting Vendor
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    So E46 subframe mounts to chassis are 160mm wider aka 16cm, or roughly 6.5inches

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    ...
    Last edited by Beaujewel; 11-22-2012 at 11:47 PM.

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    Compare pictures R41-1103 to 36-41-190. "F" in the first pic to "H" in the second. Doesn't look like they show the mounting points closest to the rear seat, though on the E36 pic.

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    Last edited by Beaujewel; 11-22-2012 at 11:46 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wanganstyle View Post
    thanks for the info!

    hmm. wonder what the chassis structure underneath looks like, will see if can get into body dept and see both e36/46m from the inside
    Yeah, I know - bringing this back from the dead. But did you ever do this?

    I have a friend looking into this for the same reason as you - wants a wider E36 for racing and doesn't want to just use 3" worth of wheel spacers (for scrub radius and all that). Doesn't want an E90 - just wants a wider rear (front is easy - E46 aluminum arms and you're pretty much done).

    Anyway, just wondered if you gave up or did it without posting about it?

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    So he wants wider out wheels yet he doeanr want to change scrub? Wtf? Im not sure he is aware of what scrub radius means.

    E46 rear arms are almpst identical to e36... as far as i knew so are the front. .. m obviously not. Changing the whole subframe is rediculous. Its 100 times less work to structure the stocky.

    - - - Updated - - -

    Ahh. Nvmd. I read wrong.

    - - - Updated - - -

    It depends what kind of racing. Scrub does matter, but on good asphalt or road, the +scrub helps. As long as you suspension and rates match. Im on 85mm spacers plus lile 30+more offset addiation on my e36. With the proper suspension setup can be extremely benaficial on smooth road. And even on some bumpy stuff iant horrible on these cars. I lilw thw increased feedback. It all brakes down to proper suapension setup for what you drive. Thats with or without high offset
    Nobody would recertify these machines after somebody screwed with them without any visibility into what they did.

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    Quote Originally Posted by spyderg0d View Post
    - - - Updated - - -

    It depends what kind of racing. Scrub does matter, but on good asphalt or road, the +scrub helps. As long as you suspension and rates match. Im on 85mm spacers plus lile 30+more offset addiation on my e36. With the proper suspension setup can be extremely benaficial on smooth road. And even on some bumpy stuff iant horrible on these cars. I lilw thw increased feedback. It all brakes down to proper suapension setup for what you drive. Thats with or without high offset
    This is not consistently at any track - it's west coast NASA, so it rotates. He can't depend on the road surface to be a friend, thus the desire to have scrub at least in the right ballpark.

    Secondly, this will absolutely be a matter of feel - fairly unmeasureable. What might be fine for you he may dislike, and like the OP he has plenty of time - so the work is a secondary (or completely NOT a) consideration. I mean, it's not like cost is no issue, but effort is secondary to both cost and the effectiveness of the outcome.

    I'll also note we're trying to figure out how to fix the rear toe if we do this, but I don't think that will be a deal killer. Too much toe combined with the toe-out effect of too much scrub radius may eat at the tires more than is ideal, but should yield a feel that is relatively neutral.

    Anyway, just curious if the OP ever figured this out. We're looking at doing something like cutting up an E36 subframe (or finding the right diameter pipe) and welding the bushing pipes inside the location of the bushings on the E46 subframe. The E36 bushings are each about 3" inside those of the E46, which *should* be enough room to just weld on the outside without having to do a lot of cutting.

    Anyway, I know we're way out there, but track has a dramatic effect on lateral grip, and there's nothing in his particular rule set prohibiting running more track.

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