Cold start issues and failed inspection

[fhs2000]

I have a 2000 528i e39 with right at 98,000 miles that i seem to be having issues with.

History on this car is mostly unknown. It was driven briefly by a family member (who acquired it from a high end used car dealer) and then sat in a garage for about 2 years. Before being stored the check engine light was on, but the issue was never diagnosed and from what I understand CEL went off on its on. The vehicle had an oil change about a year ago and was driven about 10 miles before going back in the garage for storage.

Recently the car was transferred over to me and is all legal except for the state inspection, which has emissions testing here in south Texas. When first starting the car, after it being stored, I had noticed it had developed a 'cold start' issue. The battery had died during storage so i replaced with a new one. The check engine light had not been on until I cranked it and the car stumbled, spit, sputtered, small backfiring in intake/exhaust area.

Car finally started, and once started and warm, it idled and ran perfectly. That's when hard CEL started and would not go away. I had codes cleared and then took it up to the inspection station, car failed inspection due to several items being "Not Ready"( which he stated was from battery being discounted while installing new battery). The mechanic told me to drive vehicle for 50+ miles, which I did and right after 50 miles check engine light came back on.

I took vehicle to O'riellys to check CEL codes and here is what showed up:
P1188
p1189
p0173
p1250 supposed to go to a website to read due to it being a proprietary code, but forgot the website
p1259
p1622

Currently I have vehicle in garage with air intake duct, fuel rail cover, and spark plug cover off.

I have checked all PCV and other vacuum hoses, visually and with carb cleaner, for leaks. As far as I can tell there are none, but when i remove the the oil cap the idle drops and car has minor stumble.

I cleaned the MAF sensor with CRC map sensor cleaner (gray bottle), and am planning to replace the spark plugs after cleaner burns out of engine. What plugs would you recommend for this car...I am leaning towards NGK platinum. Is the stock plug single or dual electrode?

I have replaced upper radiator hose with OEM from dealership and the coolant level is full with proper antifreeze mix.

Today I am cleaning the throttle body butterfly (which is all I seem to be able accesses without removing the entire throttle body/manifold). I would love to be able to clean idle air control valve but it looks like its impossible to remove with out taking off intake manifold. Is there some kind of way to spray throttle body cleaner in IAC valve without taking it off?

The maintenance on this car is unknown. Looks like someone has put new belt pulleys on car, so there must have been at least minimum maintenance. I know all maintenance needs to be done, but I don't have money for all of it at once.

Items I want to change are :
fuel filter, pcv valve($60+tax), ALL pcv valve and vacuum hoses (about $100+tax from dealer), Vanos seals, valve cover gaskets, fuel pressure regulator, belts and all pulleys (should I use new hydraulic pulley or go back with mechanical, would I need adapter to make hydraulic pulley work?), thermostat($80+tax for whole assembly).

What are your preferred stores, online stores for best quality and lowest price? As far as stores go I lean towards O'reillys and Advanced Auto, along with what I can afford from the dealership.

Starting with cleaning MAF and throttle body butterfly, vacuum leaks (none found yet), new spark plugs and fuel filter.

I am completely stumped with these codes. From what I have read on this forum, and elsewhere, it could be the thermostat, VANOS seals(where would I find the instructions for this procedure?), vacuum leaks, fuel pressure regulator.
I do not want to start throwing money at this car and would like to at least fix the CEL code issues so i can pass inspection.

Sorry for the long post. I wanted to give as much history and information on what I have tried to help diagnose issue. I have searched Google for days for the answer, but can seem to find one specific to my issue.
Thanks in advance for all of your help

[P11]

Definitely sounds like your vanos seals need to be changed. I would also change all the items you mentioned above, they are quite cheap and offer good peace of mind.

Here's the procedure:

http://www.beisansystems.com/procedu..._procedure.htm

[rdl]

The attached file lists BMW DCTs. I can't find P1250 or P1259 for any engine listed. Any chance they gave you the wrong numbers?
P1622 is "Map Cooling Thermostat Control Circuit Electrical" which seems unlikely to cause your idle problems or CEL based on BMW's description of its working principles. Other 3 codes are lean/rich issues which would set a CEL.

From your list only CCV, MAF cleaning and fuel filter/pressure regulator appear related to your codes and CEL.
EDIT: but not necessarily the cause of your CEL
Others are good to do, but not likely to clear the CEL. Many report VANOS seals cause rough idle, but in cold winter weather and seldom set a CEL. P11's link in prior post is the place to go for VANOS help.

I'd suggest you look for a shop with a BMW diagnostic system, not just a code reader as at O'Reilly. The BMW systems will walk through test cycles/programs for DTC's and suggest likely faulty components. An hour of labor time could save hundreds in parts changed but not faulty. Dealer as last resort due to high door rates. If you're handy, as it appears you are, you can do the parts replacement yourself.
If you're keen, this forum can lead you through installing a BMW diagnostic system on your computer for the cost of a $30 OBD cable & several (well ... quite a few) hours of your time.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...play.php?f=233

You can check the PCV (CCV in BMW terms) on your own with a slack tube manometer connected to the dipstick tube. Easy to rig up with a length of clear tubing. BMW spec is 10 - 15 millibar
EDIT2: vacuum, which is 4 - 6 inch of water column. Outside this range means CCV is faulty - replace.

I've not cleaned my ICV, but others report that they are very difficult to remove. The trick seems to be to remove screws & pull hard.

I've bought from & found excellent price & service at
EAC Tuning at http://eactuning.com/
Faulkner at http://bmwpartssource.com/

BMW recommended plugs are:
BOSCH FGR7DQP (Bosch 4417)
NGK BKR6EQUP (NGK 3199)
although lots of people use others. Plugs unlikely to set a CEL unless they are really cruddy and then more likely to set a DTC for a specific cylinder or two.

Regards
RDL

[fhs2000]

Thanks for the replies. rdl, the p1250 and 1259 codes seemed to be BMW specific codes and the guy at O'reillys gave me a website to check them on but I didn't write it down and forgot what it was.

The ICV was fairly easy to get out. Two bolts and a 10mm nut and then just pull hard and it will pop out of the intake manifold grommet then slide it out of the rubber holder that's connected to throttle body cable/bracket and disconnect the connector and its out.

I did all the things I mentioned in OP.
Went with NGK 7902 single electrode platinum plugs. They came pre gaped at about .35, which I hope was right. The spark plugs looked like the original plugs. The had BMW NGK written on them and the ceramic around the center was cracked pretty bad on ever plug and the were black. No oil though just fouled.

New air filter(cleaned box while I had it out), fuel filter, and new clamps for fuel filter lines. The fuel filter was so clogged up I could not blow through it.
Old
New

Cleaned ICV motor real good and the little valve inside moved back and forth freely: however the valve had a small gap on it's resting side and did not close all the way. Used CRC throttle body cleaner (red bottle) for this and throttle body.


Cleaned throttle body.


Cleaned MAF sensor with CRC MAF sensor cleaner (gray bottle)
Didn't get a close up pic, but here it is after reinstalling.

Fixed crack in ICV elbow with electrical tape (will work until I can get a new one).


Elbow installed with 'electrical tape fix'

Checked for visible vacuum leaks and could not find any.

Sprayed carb cleaner around CCV and lines going into it and no change in idle. Disconnected CCV line from valve cover and checked inside it and it had hardly any oil buildup, which leads me to believe that CCV is probably still ok.


Tightened both clamps at base of power steering pump reservoir and filled with ATF fluid.

Not sure what this thing is, but I cleaned it good and cleaned the hole in the intake manifold that it fits in. If anyone knows what the name of this thing is and what it does I would like to know. I tested it with the hole on the solenoid. Open flap all of the way and put my finger over the hole and let go of flap. It did not stay all the way closed but held most of its vacuum. I do not know if that's normal or not.
Before Cleaning
After Cleaning
Hole where it fits in intake manifold.

I plan on getting codes cleared tomorrow, test driving it, and seeing if any of the same codes or new codes come up. It did not have near as bad stumbling after all of this when cranking cold.

It has a little bit of a rough idle, but it could just be the new plugs and needing to take it out on the road to relearn ICV, MAF, and whatever the thing on the top part of intake manifold was with flap and vacuum solenoid.

I'll post back after I get codes cleared and test drive it tomorrow and update you all on whats happening with it.

Thanks for the help!

[rdl]

... stuff deleted

Fixed crack in ICV elbow with electrical tape (will work until I can get a new one).

... stuff deleted

Not sure what this thing is, but I cleaned it good and cleaned the hole in the intake manifold that it fits in. If anyone knows what the name of this thing is and what it does I would like to know. I tested it with the hole on the solenoid. Open flap all of the way and put my finger over the hole and let go of flap. It did not stay all the way closed but held most of its vacuum. I do not know if that's normal or not.

I plan on getting codes cleared tomorrow, test driving it, and seeing if any of the same codes or new codes come up. It did not have near as bad stumbling after all of this when cranking cold.

It has a little bit of a rough idle, but it could just be the new plugs and needing to take it out on the road to relearn ICV, MAF, and whatever the thing on the top part of intake manifold was with flap and vacuum solenoid.

I'll post back after I get codes cleared and test drive it tomorrow and update you all on whats happening with it.

Thanks for the help!

The split in the ICV boot is at least one of the causes of your fuel adaptation codes and CEL; with a little luck the only one & you're home free. Others report that it will take ~100 miles driving for the DME to relearn adaptation values, clear all codes and smooth the idle.

The part picture is the DISA valve. It switches position to adjust inlet manifold flow ~4,000 RPM under the control of the DME. They are prone to failing & sending little bits into the cylinders with catastophic results. Yours looks OK.
A heads up. Many people report vacuum leaks around the DISA valve, especially after removing it for a check & clean. People use electrical tape on the face to assist the O-ring. Recently a poster either here or Bimmerfest found a source for new O-rings which BMW does not list. Search BMW forums for more data.

Good luck

Regards
RDL

[rf900rkw]

Any code in the P1xxx range is a BMW specific code. P1250 and P1259 do pop up in the forum on occasion. I don't think they are ghost codes, but I have yet to find a reliable consistent definition for them. Most of your other codes are for a lean condition. To be lean, it is either getting air that is not passing through the MAF (ccv, leaks), or not enough fuel (clogged injectors or filter, bad pump). The ICV won't cause a lean code unless it's broken to the point of leaking; it will just mess with your idle stability when gummy. Good on you for tackling the job so thoroughly. You likely got most of the code issue by fixing the cracked boot.

[JaredM3]

That crack in the intake boot was most likely causing all you issues...don't listen to anyone about vanos seals and crap like that.

[Poolman]

Great that people that drive 540's give advise about Vanos Seals that aren't in their cars--I was one of the first to make this mod back in 2007--I have and will continue
to give everyone who owns one of these i6 cars this advise--The first mod to make is to be sure--Change out the Vanos seals--this will bring engine timing back into the spec's designed by BMW for these engines--the stock seals degrade in as little as 10k miles--the new seals fom Besian Systems will last the life of the car--and Besian is the only place you can purchase the seals for the job--BMW doesn't sell these parts but they will supply you with a new Vanos with the problem seals that your trying to avoid. I have no interest in Besian's, but I am trying to help others via the web to
make a good investment--CHANGE OUT THOSE SEALS--you'll love what it does for the engine in your car.

[rf900rkw]

While the VANOS seals do go bad on some cars, they are not the magic cure-all for all problems. Post #2 claims they will fix a vacuum leak induced lean condition. Not true. In this situation, specific codes with a specific goal, telling him to change the seals is akin to telling him to change to Amsoil transmission oil because he'll love the difference. Yes, it's a true statement, but one of little relevance to the thread's subject.

[P11]

Great that people that drive 540's give advise about Vanos Seals that aren't in their cars--I was one of the first to make this mod back in 2007--I have and will continue
to give everyone who owns one of these i6 cars this advise--The first mod to make is to be sure--Change out the Vanos seals--this will bring engine timing back into the spec's designed by BMW for these engines--the stock seals degrade in as little as 10k miles--the new seals fom Besian Systems will last the life of the car--and Besian is the only place you can purchase the seals for the job--BMW doesn't sell these parts but they will supply you with a new Vanos with the problem seals that your trying to avoid. I have no interest in Besian's, but I am trying to help others via the web to
make a good investment--CHANGE OUT THOSE SEALS--you'll love what it does for the engine in your car.

People with 540's don't live in M62 bubbles.

[Poolman]

I'm not about to claim that new seals will fix anything concerning a vacuum leak--but I have replaced my fair share of these seals in these cars--the main thing the seals fix is the stumbling that a number of owners have when starting the car on cold mornings. Along with making that fix, the engines have a smoother idle and better
tq through the engines power band--this isn't just my findings--go over to the Vanos forum and read from the many that have gone before and all the happy customers
that are found there--there's not one that wishes they hadn't replaced the seals
The seals control the timeing of the camshafts--without proper timing the engine will not perform to the spec that it was designed--it's that simple--my 03 model has a
software in the engine control to mask this problem--I still changed out the seals at 100k miles --the engine has almost 200k miles now and runs better than it did when I had 30k miles on the car--I bought the car new and saw the performance degrade
as the miles were added --after the install of the new seals the performance of the engine was like new again.

[fhs2000]

The split in the ICV boot is at least one of the causes of your fuel adaptation codes and CEL; with a little luck the only one & you're home free. Others report that it will take ~100 miles driving for the DME to relearn adaptation values, clear all codes and smooth the idle.

The part picture is the DISA valve. It switches position to adjust inlet manifold flow ~4,000 RPM under the control of the DME. They are prone to failing & sending little bits into the cylinders with catastophic results. Yours looks OK.
A heads up. Many people report vacuum leaks around the DISA valve, especially after removing it for a check & clean. People use electrical tape on the face to assist the O-ring. Recently a poster either here or Bimmerfest found a source for new O-rings which BMW does not list. Search BMW forums for more data.

Good luck

Regards
RDL

I cleaned it as best as I could and put grease on the o ring to help it slide back in easier.

Two questions though.

Does the electrical tape go over the o ring to make it 'fatter' so it will seal better?

Would an o ring that's the same size from O'reillys, Advanced Auto, etc work to replace it with or does it have to be exact?

Any code in the P1xxx range is a BMW specific code. P1250 and P1259 do pop up in the forum on occasion. I don't think they are ghost codes, but I have yet to find a reliable consistent definition for them. Most of your other codes are for a lean condition. To be lean, it is either getting air that is not passing through the MAF (ccv, leaks), or not enough fuel (clogged injectors or filter, bad pump). The ICV won't cause a lean code unless it's broken to the point of leaking; it will just mess with your idle stability when gummy. Good on you for tackling the job so thoroughly. You likely got most of the code issue by fixing the cracked boot.

I'm hoping that ICV boot was the main issue. When I have the money the CCV and related hoses and the VANOS seals from Beisan will be the next things I do.
The belts are in rough shape. The main belt has small cracks developing and it looks like someone replace all the rollers/tensioner pulleys at some point but I dont trust them.
When I change the tensioner pulleys should I switch over to the hydraulic tensioner? Will I need anything to adapt it to work in place of the mechanical tensioners that are on there now? thanks

That crack in the intake boot was most likely causing all you issues...don't listen to anyone about vanos seals and crap like that.

About to go drive it and get codes cleared. Keeping my fingers crossed that this was the main issue. lol

Great that people that drive 540's give advise about Vanos Seals that aren't in their cars--I was one of the first to make this mod back in 2007--I have and will continue
to give everyone who owns one of these i6 cars this advise--The first mod to make is to be sure--Change out the Vanos seals--this will bring engine timing back into the spec's designed by BMW for these engines--the stock seals degrade in as little as 10k miles--the new seals fom Besian Systems will last the life of the car--and Besian is the only place you can purchase the seals for the job--BMW doesn't sell these parts but they will supply you with a new Vanos with the problem seals that your trying to avoid. I have no interest in Besian's, but I am trying to help others via the web to
make a good investment--CHANGE OUT THOSE SEALS--you'll love what it does for the engine in your car.

I'm planning on changing those VANOS seals out. At the moment I don't have the money but they will be done in the near future. At the moment I'm just trying to pass inspection because I already paid the shop $40 for the emissions test and have 15 days to get it reinspected for free from him before they charge me again. it's a race lol

I checked out the tutorial on replacing them and it doesnt look to bad. Looks like i'll just need to be real careful while I'm in there.


Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. Defiantly getting me pointed in the right direction on getting this car back on the road.

I am concerned about the one code P1622 "MAP cooling control circuit electrical." does that mean my thermostat is out or about to go? Does anyone have any experience with this code? thanks

[rf900rkw]

It could be as simple someone turned the key on with the thermostat unplugged once. Or possibly someone replaced the thermostat with the older non-electric one.

[f355spider]

That crack in the intake boot was most likely causing all you issues...don't listen to anyone about vanos seals and crap like that.

+1. Never ignore the obvious. Change that intake boot and monitor after the replacement before doing anything else. That will probably resolve most all the issues.

You seem reasonably knowledgeable/handy, so once you have the car running correctly and the inspection behind you, I would recommend changing ALL the fluids, brake, coolant, trans, diff and power steering. Be sure to use the correct fluid types.

[JaredM3]

Pool man...does it matter what I drive? I am a BMW tech...I work on these cars all day and every day...I would hope I'm qualified to give some money saving advice to fellow forum members. It is people like you that unfortunately make the quality of forums suffer and give them a bad name.

The map tstat fault usually is an activation fault and can be ignored if you really want to. Sometimes it is a fault for it being mechanically jammed. I don't believe a generic code reader will distinguish between them. I would replace the tstat.

[Poolman]

Glad you have a good job and all--but take some time away from what you have learned and gleened form your employment and change out these seals yourself and
see what happens--until then I will continue to stand on the soap box I'm a standing on.
Think outside the box a bit---It's not that I'm trying to save people money as well--all I'm pointing at is that the seals that came in these cars are defective and need to be updated with the proper product that won't harden and platersize in a relitive short time---I have seen the difference in these parts from the cars I have
made the swap on--all of the seals come out hard as rocks and split when being removed. Rajaie and I removed the seals from my ride after 15k miles were on them and they were like new--plyable--not rock hard. Do not these seals control camshaft timing--if they are not controling the camshafts as designed, does that not mean that the engine timing is off---as for me giving this forum or what ever forum I vist
a bad name--I must not being clear in my statements--I thought that I was being
quiet clear--EXCUSE ME..........

[P11]

Glad you have a good job and all--but take some time away from what you have learned and gleened form your employment and change out these seals yourself and
see what happens--until then I will continue to stand on the soap box I'm a standing on.
Think outside the box a bit---It's not that I'm trying to save people money as well--all I'm pointing at is that the seals that came in these cars are defective and need to be updated with the proper product that won't harden and platersize in a relitive short time---I have seen the difference in these parts from the cars I have
made the swap on--all of the seals come out hard as rocks and split when being removed. Rajaie and I removed the seals from my ride after 15k miles were on them and they were like new--plyable--not rock hard. Do not these seals control camshaft timing--if they are not controling the camshafts as designed, does that not mean that the engine timing is off---as for me giving this forum or what ever forum I vist
a bad name--I must not being clear in my statements--I thought that I was being
quiet clear--EXCUSE ME..........

That was the longest series of run-on sentences I've ever read.

[fhs2000]

Thanks for all the help.
Had codes cleared yesterday and test drive over 100 miles and now CEL.
So far so good.

Taking it back to shop for re-inspection today. Will update later today on what happened.

[f355spider]

Thanks for all the help.
Had codes cleared yesterday and test drive over 100 miles and now CEL.
So far so good.

Taking it back to shop for re-inspection today. Will update later today on what happened.

Let us know what the new codes are. Do you own your own scanner? It would be well worth the $60 investment to have your own.

[fhs2000]

Let us know what the new codes are. Do you own your own scanner? It would be well worth the $60 investment to have your own.

Same comes with misfire codes. Had them cleared and they stayed off for 110+ miles. Got my inspection sticker and passed emissions.

Bought a DISA valve o-ring from BMW dealership and installed it. After about 2 miles of driving check engine light is back on but car runs good and has smooth idle.

Car still has cold start issue but it is not nearly as bad as it was. A few wide open throttles and it clears up.

No, I do not have a scanner but I want one. What is this $60 scanner? Does it just read and clear codes or can you read live data with it too? Would you provide a link to where i can buy it or what store carries it? Thanks

Looking for something under $100 that can read some if not all live data and clear and erase codes. I would like handheld unit or laptop software and cable. Either one is fine. Does eBay have anything that is cheap and works good with BMW?

[Poolman]

Actron scanners from Auto Zone has worked OK with me--Peake is the one most use around--wish I had hte GT1 but thats major money---the main thing is having something to give you the codes and they can be had for as little as 30 bucks
you can look the codes up from those on the computor

[fhs2000]

Update:

Got inspection sticker. Finally. Rented a scanner from Autozone to diagnose new codes.

Code pics:



P1622. It's back...for the THIRD time! lol
It can't be the thermostat. It is working fine. What else could this code mean. I have bled the cooling system. Coolant is at proper level and crystal clear/green.



The ever elusive P1189. Did I not get all of the vacuum leaks? Is the electrical tape fix not holding on ICV air intake elbow? What else could this code mean? I have a new one ordered should be here in a few days.

So I am down to only two codes now. Getting better.

I replaced the DISA valve o-ring with a new one from BMW dealership. It was only $2.40. After replacing o-ring and driving car for less than 2 miles is when the two codes above came back causing CEL to come back on. I disconnected the DISA valve connector but car was off and I plugged it back in before starting car.

New DISA o-ring pic with grease to help it slide in easier. Grease is your friend with o-rings. :thumbsup:



I ordered both belts, both tensioners (mechanical, hydraulic kits don't seem worth the money), and idler pulley from rock auto. All parts are made by Gates(The best in my opinion). Does anyone have any reasons why I should not use Gates parts on a German made car?
Parts should be here Saturday or Monday. I ll try to post pics of job.

To recap: I now have codes P1622 and P1189 on after replacing DISA valve o-ring and driving car less than two miles.

I have the freeze frame data pics( a lot of them) from scanner but I cant upload them through attachments.

thanks for all the help.

Mods: Can I buy/get the ability to upload pics/attachments on this forum? I see the Attachments link on my 'User CP' but there is no button to allow me to upload pics. Do I need to make a certain number of post to be able to post attachments. thanks.

[Poolman]

The stat can work and still be bad--they have had a bad batch and Doru who is a member here has replaced three of them in short order before getting one thats working OK. Next time I purchase a stat, I'm buying it from the dealership. If it goes bad they will give me a frre one, may even replace on the car with no labor--

[fhs2000]

The stat can work and still be bad--they have had a bad batch and Doru who is a member here has replaced three of them in short order before getting one thats working OK. Next time I purchase a stat, I'm buying it from the dealership. If it goes bad they will give me a frre one, may even replace on the car with no labor--

Have your ever tried Beck/Arnley thermostat? It's $64 at Rock Auto. Thats the one i'm looking at. As for the water pump Rock Atuo has one made by Gates and it's new. Only $38 dollars as opposed to $77 for the good one at O'rielly's.

The thermostat that's in there looks like it my by the original. So it's a priority.