So i tore into the 7 yesterday. Seems like its going to be a long project. I'm taking lots of pics as I go, mostly so I can remember how to put stuff back. My memory sucks.
So far I have the radiator and hoses and some misc. stuff off the front and the elec. box's off the valve covers.
I went and disconnected all the harnesses that come out of the box so that I could actually move them compleatly out of the area.
My biggest question so far is should I remove all the injectors from the rail and have them cleaned or just leave them alone?
Two of them stayed in the block, the rest stayed in the rail when I pulled it up.
Also i'm worried that when I pull the water pump I might dislodge the pipes under the intake. So I was thinking of pulling the intake and also checking the VP while its off.
What do you think, worth it, or leave it alone?
I'm not great at taking pics but I'll post them up as I go.
I just had my intake resealed. I asked the indy to check the valley pan, and while he was in there just to change it all out if it was needed. All the hoses and o-rings.
He told me it really didn't need to be done, all looked well, and not to mess with it unless it was leaking. He saw no issues whatsoever, and told me to "just drive it"
btw, car has 137xxx now, and never had a valley pan done.
Moral is: If it doesn't need it, don't worry about it.
'98 BMW 740iL. Oxford Green Metallic/Tan leather, Bilstein B6s', Eibach Springs, 130,000 miles
I'm of the mind to just do it since you're in there. Nothing worse than getting it all back together and finding out in a month that you should have done it. While you're in there, do the cyclone separator too.
The injectors should be fine. Just pull them out of the manifold and rail and lightly clean the tips with a lint free cloth if you'd like. Inspect them and if they're free from any dirt or build up just reuse. Don't forget to lube their o-rings lightly with oil when you re-assemble.
I am also about to tear into mine as I need to do my cam cover gaskets, and upper timing cover gaskets. Since I'm having the covers powder coated, I'll use the down time to do the valley pan and rear water manifold gaskets also. I'm also considering doing the a non vanos intake manifold swap (as I have one sourced).
My only debate is weather or not I should go the extra mile and tear off the lower cover also and do the timing chain guides and cyclone separator.
How many miles does yours have on it? What prompted you to do the chain guides?
Last edited by JaxMustang50; 01-18-2011 at 09:07 AM.
"I wish I grew up in the 50s when people could prosper." -sigtwenty
Leave it, if you find no dried coolant there you should be fine!
Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!
Well, got most everything off yesterday. I'm all the way down to lower timing cover.
When I pulled the pump I looked down under the intake and saw lots of black muck. So I went and pulled it.
I'm uploading some pics now, should have them up later.
It looks like the water pipes have been leaking for a long time. There is residue over every inch of the motor.
The pipe that runs parallel with the water pipes was leaking from the inch long rubber hose just behind the drivers timing cover,
water pipes were leaking front and rear,
I think the throttle body was leaking,
upper and lower timing covers and valve covers.
I'm surprised the car ran as good as it did.
The reason for the whole job was the oil leaks.
I wanted them gone and figured cuz I'm so far in I would do the rails too.
Edwin, when you do work like this do you use gasket sealer, or just let the gasket do all the work?
Also, should I replace the secondary timing tensioners too? The ones that mount under the upper timing covers.
It seems that most of my cooling system was replaced already.
I found tags on the Rad. and expansion tank that had a date from late in 2007.
The water pump also has a metal impeller. So I wont have to replace all that anytime soon.
Oh btw, anyone have a pic of where the hole is on the bell housing to lock the flywheel? That my next step.
Last edited by GSXRliterbikz; 01-19-2011 at 08:10 AM.
'98 BMW 740iL. Oxford Green Metallic/Tan leather, Bilstein B6s', Eibach Springs, 130,000 miles
So here is where I'm at now.
This is the pass side guide rail. Not too bad, just a little grooved.
You can see in this pic the residue on the rear water pipe area. The hoses back there look fine so I'm just going to leave them.
This is the osv pipe leaking behind the timing cover.
Another shot of the rear water manifold.
Anyone know if this was supposed to come apart?
I think this is a throttle body leak...?
This is what it looked like before taking it off. Seems to be leaking just behind the butterfly.
I was able to get the fan off with just a swift whack. I was surprised given the rust.
I got a little nervous when I started and saw this rats nest of wires. I'm gonna have fun routing all of them back when done.
No that was not supposed to come apart. You might be able to glue it back together or just get a new one.
A little advice...cover the intake ports. I used masking tape.
Yea, I did, just after I took the pic.
Looks like I'm gonna need to get the tools to hold the crank and flywheel.
I tried with a hardened chisel in the flywheel and it just snapped.
Anyone have them and want to rent/loan them?
I'm at a stand still till I get something.
Oh well, Kinda figured. I'll just get a new one. So far thats the only thing that broke on me.
Last edited by GSXRliterbikz; 01-19-2011 at 01:12 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Use some super glue for the vacuum seal
On the bottom of the tranny is a little hole were you can block the fly wheel
Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!
Whatever you do, do not buy the BMW crankshaft holding tool. It's Junk!
Looks good man, you are well on your way. If you do not find a crank holder I have a homemade one that works well, it has been used on tons of cars and you are welcome to it if you send it back when you are done. Silicone your vacuum hose back together so you will get a good seal but it should be fine.
So, what prompted you to do the chain guides in the first place? How many miles are on your engine?
"I wish I grew up in the 50s when people could prosper." -sigtwenty
I tried to use that hole in the flywheel but everything I used bent or broke.
Chester, a member on here, has a modified version that he loans out as well as timing tools. I think someone else is using them when I need them though. PM me if you dont mind letting me use it, also if you know anyone else with the timing tools. I have someone coming over to time the engine for me on the 7th. When turning it over to find the hole in the flywheel I heard a "chink". I think it was the guide binding up on the chain, (I had it tightened with a zip tie) but I'm not sure. So better safe than sorry.
I have a ton of oil leaks, coolant leaks, and PS leaks. Upper timing covers and front main seal were the worst. With all that apart I figured it wasnt much more work to change the guides. Motor (and car) has 125k. From the research I did it seems that the guides seem to go around 150k. I plan on keeping mine past that so while I was knee deep in it, I figured I would go all in.
Opps, just noticed it was amschnellsten that has the crank holder. So the afore mentioned timing and crank holding comment was to you.
Last edited by GSXRliterbikz; 01-19-2011 at 10:16 PM.
Wow, amazing how these engines continue to run.
Totally stock 97 740iL except for SatRad
classic case of the 2 inch long rubber hose at the end of the OSV Vent tube corroding
BTW nice Crisp pictures..Keep em coming!!!!
Your gaskets were shot bro...I wonder if I culd tackle that Center guide rail myself?
How much for the guide rails anayway?
Last edited by cazal740i; 01-19-2011 at 11:37 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
2000 740i Sport
just use a 1/4" extension to lock the crank thats it , no special tools requierd
The rails themselfs are not too bad. Center is 90, left was 60 and right was 75. Its the other stuff you need to replace at the same time like seals and gaskets for all the covers and o-rings. I Just spent almost 500 at Bavauto yesterday and I still need to buy a Vally pan, OSV, and some other misc. seals.
I tried that, didnt work. I bent the extension. Also tried a hardened chisel that was the exact size and broke that in half.
Do you think the weather and temperatures where you live had anything to do with the multitude of problems you have with leaks?
1996 BMW 740iL - NEX SS Coilovers - Style 95's - Drilled/Slotted Rotors - Clear Corners - Suede Headliner/Pillars/Rear Deck - Modified MAF - Modified Intake - Front Plate Delete - Cat Delete - Slammed
So I recived all the tools I needed to finnish. Thanks to Chester for doing rentals. The crank holder worked perfectly. That is one beefy bar. Now its ALL apart and awaiting my friend to come and time it on mon. Here are some more pics....
This is after pulling the valley pan.
Spark plugs. Not sure if they are orig.
And this is everything off. OSV broke when I looked at it. Super brittle.
If you notice whats left of the gasket on the oil pan. It would seem that someone has had the cover off before. Where it meets the block the gasket is cut, just like I'm going to do when I put everything back together.
I'm tempted to get a car fax on it now. Its had body work done on the pass. side and most of the front end mech. stuff is newer. Rad., water pump, exp. tank, ps pump, trans cooler. I wonder if it was in an accident? At any rate if someone has taken all this apart before that explains why its all leaking now. Either poor quality parts or sloppy work.
Well, I'll post up some pics of the timing getting done and then putting it all back together.
I see the light......
Good job so far.
95 840Ci, Calypso Red/Silver, 83k - 99 740i, Black/Black, 185k, Alpina Mods - 01 740i, Titanium/Silver, 40k, Sport Pkg
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WOW your on a roll!
Keep us posted!
Have a technical question, don't send me a PM but post it on the board so others can benefit from it!
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