Member
Hey,
I've looked everywhere online, i cant find any information on this particular code.
I scanned my E46 325ci 2005 at two different mechanics, P1412 is what shows up.
Ive looked at fault code lists everywhere, its not on any of them on the internet.
The mechanics though showed me a list of their own, which had this code on it.
And it says something about Auxillary emissions controls.
When I asked the mechanic that i want to fix it, they all say that they dont know what the heck it is and they wont be able to fix it.
What should i do? where can i get info on this? Why is this not a normal code like all other codes on the fault codes lists online?
helppp me!
Member
P1412 - Secondary Air Pump/Secondary Air Valve Large Leak
Check your hoses for any breaks or holes on your secondary air pump. It is to the left of the engine right behind the windshield washer reservoir.
Hoses #4 and #7 if your secondary air pump looks like this:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...15&hg=11&fg=50
If it looks like this then hose #2:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...88&hg=11&fg=50
Also, check vacuum line #4 on the check valve...the hose from the air pump should run to this:
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...11&hg=11&fg=45
Last edited by genuity; 01-09-2011 at 02:13 PM.
Member
hey, Thanks so much for your informative reply,
The setup of my car is the first link u sent...
I checked the hoses, and the connection between #7 and #1 was fully missing. The hose was just sitting close to the pump but not sealed around it, so i shoved it in as much as i could with hand, it doesnt have the tightest grip.. I checked other similar connections and none of them seem too tight.. but this one was just fully disconnected.
Would u be able to tell me what that air pump does? or what this portion of the engine all together does?
at this point, should i just use a scanner to turn the engine light off and see if it comes on again?
and if it did, there is really no way i can make the grip any tighter around the hole, unless i use tape or something..
what do u suggest?
i
Senior Member
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Joe
License Revoked
Erase your code and drive see if code comes back, PM me if you have more problems and need any assistance with repair, I will share my experience with you.
Member
When you say erase your code, the only way to do that is to have one of those scanner devices right?
Does that mean everytime i want to erase it and test it, i have to go to mechanic pay them 50-100 dollars to erase it? is there any other way to erase?
Member
Yes....you must have an OBD-II scanner...or go to auto zone / Advance auto....and have them read your codes, then erase.
If you're planning on helping yourself in the future....just pick one up for <$100.00.
Self explanatory to use.
Allergisch auf jene, die
buy your own.Originally Posted by koushymama
IF MY CAPS OFFEND YOU, BLOCK ME.
AND IF YOU NOTICE THE FIRST LETTER OF EACH WORD CAP'ED...... IT'S DONE AUTOMATICALLY BY THE FORUM BECAUSE I TYPE IN ALL CAPS.BUT IT DOESN'T ALWAYS DO THIS, LIKE WHEN I QUOTE OTHER POSTS.AND IF YOU DON'T LIKE THAT, REFER TO FIRST SENTENCE IN MY SIG.
Stretch Haters Club #1
BMW CCA Member
The Secondary Air Pump is an emissions control device. In short, the catalytic converters (cats) need to be screamin' hot to scrub the exhaust properly. When the car is first started, the secondary air pump injects fresh air into the exhaust pipes, just upstream of the cats. The fresh air burns in the cats, heating them up much more quickly than they would if they were heated solely by the exhaust gas. The pump only runs for about half a minute after the car is started, then it turns off. It does not affect engine performance in any other way.
The tubing for the pump has a one-way check valve between the pump and the exhaust pipes. This prevents the exhaust from going into the pump when the pump isn't operating. To my understanding, this valve is the part that usually fails first - it gets corroded and sticks open. If the valve is stuck open for a long time, the pump will be next to fail.
Gasoline exhaust contains a lot of water vapor. If there's exhaust gas in the pump, when you shut off the car and the engine cools down, the water vapor will condense in there and eventually lead to corrosion.
I'm not sure exactly what needs to be repaired or replaced to fix your code. But, I agree with the above posters - if you plan to work on this car yourself, it's a good idea to spring for an inexpensive code reader to go into your tool box.
Some parts stores (around here, Autozone and Advance) will read the codes for free, but they might not reset them.
[edit] P.S. don't mind the folks who are nasty to novices, we try to keep them out but they always sneak back in
Member
I picked up an Actron reader from Autozone for like $40 bucks. That one will simply read your active and pending codes, erase codes, and also give you a statuis of some of the system checks. Great little tool too because you can also read other OBD-II cars, so if a friend has their check engine light on, you can at least help them review the codes and also clear them for them.
Member
This is the one I got....
Member
oh wow, this is awesome.. this info helps me so much, thanks guys.
If i had known I could buy one for so cheap, i wouldnt have spent over 200 dollars so far to scan it a few times..
what a rippp off.
http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP9180-.../dp/B000KG8KB0
Autozone seems to only be for US...
I found this one though in the link above. Is that good pricing?
Last edited by koushymama; 01-11-2011 at 12:26 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Member
Didn't see you were in Moonland
The one you and Dane posted are a bit on the heavier side, with Live data display and recording and such. Not sure if you would find much use out of it, but if you like having more data for data sake, then I'd get that one. The one I got was this. Not sure why it says the tool is updateable, unless it is referring to the little CD that came with it for your PC, but the reader itself doesn't seem "updateable"...
Last edited by telijah; 01-11-2011 at 03:18 PM.
Member
ya i saw that one too on amazon.. so i guess that's good enough,
what is live data? it shows it in real time? is that what it is?
will i be able to use the one u posted on other models of bmws and european cars perhaps?
Member
I am not sure on what exact live data is displayed, but maybe o2 readings, fuel maps...? You may have to check the manf. site on the product for details.
It should work on any car running OBB-II. I thought OBD-II was a US thing, but any car manufactured for the US market using OBD-II (which is almost all cars from I think 1995, 1996...) would work.
Member
ok so something strange happened 2 days ago..
as i said before, after the first response i got in this board, i went and checked the pump hoses and i saw one of them was not connected properly.. and i pushed it in with hand, though the attaching clamp doesnt have a tight grip..
anyways so i havent got to actually removing the engine light using a scan device yet to see if it comes back.. but i noticed the light itself turned offf.. without me erasing it...
i was surprised, i go open the hood and i see that the hose has been disconnected again to its original faulty form.
so im wondering what the hell is going on, the engine light is off and yet the hose is not even properly connected..
this tells me that the hose is definitely the reason for this light to be on in the first place cuz as soon as i touched it, the light went off after a couple days.. but it doesnt make sense why the hose is not even connected properly and yet the light is off now.
any ideas here?
Member
Most likely you are correct. Some codes may clear themselves after a certain number of miles, and this does not necessarily mean the issue is fixed.
The code will still be stored in the computer.
Das Stigmeister
i got an OBD-II scanner off of Amazon for $22, works like a charm, super easy to use.
http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan...5279721&sr=8-1
2001 BMW 325i |leather|navi|xenon|
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