Intake Manifold Removal for Heater Inlet Pipe access

[jinbtown]

Hi all - I think I may have lost a fairly active account here when I went out of country, so excuse the lack of posts -
The heater inlet pipe and water pipe #'s 6 & 8 in RealOEM parts fiche have 2 o-rings per plastic hose that need replaced on my '99 528i manufactured in 03/1999. I tore down the intake manifold (similar to my e46) including throttle body, ICV, etc, to get at the 17mm nut that holds the bracket attached to the bottom of the intake manifold. Obviously, all 7 manifold top-bolts have been removed, but I left the fuel rail / injectors and accompanying electronics, since the whole manifold needs to clear the studs to give me enough room to replace the 4 o-rings. Of course I don't need to take the whole manifold out.
Problem is, with all 7 smaller bolts and 1 larger mounting bolt out, the intake manifold has plenty of play and wiggle, but the thing will not budge. Feels like the gaskets glued it to the engine, and even though wiggling it up and down produces 3-4" of free play, it won't come unsealed.
I'm hesitant to resorting to more aggressive tactics - like breaking out the crowbars (already tried) or spritzing a little lubricant on each gasket (also tried). I don't want to get the come-along or the tie-down straps and ratchet that because I know I'll break that flimsy piece of plastic in half.
I realize that pulling the IM is a huge job and technically difficult, but I'm getting frustrated when I get past all the technicals and the thing just decides to get sticky.
I've searched, googled, followed three different walkthroughs step by step to verify I'd gotten every bolts, hose, and electrical connection, and they are pretty much all off the manifold and nothing appears to be binding.

For anyone that may have run into this problem before, do you have any hints or suggestions as to how I might be able to pry it off?

thanks much!

J in Btown

[cnn]

Just sticky seal, get a knife and cut some seal (it is the orange seal), and the I.M. will come out.
You are correct, there are 7 bolts holding the I.M., here is my 1998 528i DIY:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225

[xpcgamer]

I did the same heater hose in my same build date wagon. You do not have to full remove the Mani. I was able to prop it up enough with some wood to get to the hose. I am gonna give you a bit of advice. Do not bother buying the O rings. Replace the entire hard pipe. Its pretty cheap and mine was brown and brittle from the heat and age. Its suppose to be black. Careful when removing it also the tip can break off and stay in the motors cooling jacket. Took me 20 minutes with a pick to dig out all the pieces. Don't forgot to do the CCV-Mani Gasket-Injector rings-oil separator and vacuum
hose's while your there.

[cnn]

1+,

The heater pipe is metal for 1997-98 models.

1999-2003 models use plastic pipe, replace the whole pipe!

See thread #11 by Mark@EACTuning.com:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1567369

[jinbtown]

Just sticky seal, get a knife and cut some seal (it is the orange seal), and the I.M. will come out.
You are correct, there are 7 bolts holding the I.M., here is my 1998 528i DIY:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=379225

well...turns out it wasn't a sticky seal at all. Amazingly enough, this 528i M52 engine has NINE bolts holding the intake manifold on. It took over 6 hours of crying, cursing, and prying before I called my brother (certified BMW genius) who came over and pried for another hour before going..."are you sure you have all the bolts off????"

the amazing thing is NO ONE, no walkthroughs, and not even RealOEM shows that there are 9 studs, not 7.

I took some pictures in hopes that someone else is helped out in the future!!





my brown hose is broken off at the end - new hose is ordered




trusty bungee cord!!

I did the same heater hose in my same build date wagon. You do not have to full remove the Mani. I was able to prop it up enough with some wood to get to the hose. I am gonna give you a bit of advice. Do not bother buying the O rings. Replace the entire hard pipe. Its pretty cheap and mine was brown and brittle from the heat and age. Its suppose to be black. Careful when removing it also the tip can break off and stay in the motors cooling jacket. Took me 20 minutes with a pick to dig out all the pieces. Don't forgot to do the CCV-Mani Gasket-Injector rings-oil separator and vacuum
hose's while your there.

the new pipe is on order - mine is the same way!

1+,

The heater pipe is metal for 1997-98 models.

1999-2003 models use plastic pipe, replace the whole pipe!

See thread #11 by Mark@EACTuning.com:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1567369

i remember from your diy (which was helpful for everything other than the 9 vs 7 bolt debaucle!!) that there was a metal pipe before, then they switched to plastic. not happy with that switch either.

[cnn]

Interesting re 9 bolts!!!

This DIY shows M54 I.M. has 9 bolts:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1253773

[jinbtown]

that's exactly what my IM looks like - very strange indeed. All other diagrams appear correct on RealOEM...and the doorjamb sticker says it was manufactured in 03/1999. Well, that was the cause of about 6 hours of frustration...Hope this helps someone in the future.

JinBtown

[Dmascarin]

I did the same heater hose in my same build date wagon. You do not have to full remove the Mani. I was able to prop it up enough with some wood to get to the hose. I am gonna give you a bit of advice. Do not bother buying the O rings. Replace the entire hard pipe. Its pretty cheap and mine was brown and brittle from the heat and age. Its suppose to be black. Careful when removing it also the tip can break off and stay in the motors cooling jacket. Took me 20 minutes with a pick to dig out all the pieces. Don't forgot to do the CCV-Mani Gasket-Injector rings-oil separator and vacuum
hose's while your there.

I've got a coolant leak under the IM and I was wondering exactly how you replaced the pipe without removing the whole manifold. Did you just remove the air box and tackle it from the side? Are all the other hoses accessible, or would it be easier to replace them all after removing the intake manifold? What do you mean by prop it up with some wood!?! Thanks for info!

[pleiades]

To get to the inlet pipes, you're going to have to remove the airbox of course but also the oil filter housing, not to mention the IM.

This would be the ideal time to replace other things. For example...

Oil filter housing gasket (replace with new because you're removing this)
Vanos oil line (if leaking)
Crankcase ventilation (CCV) assembly with hoses (if old or clogged up; it's tucked into the IM)
Intake distribution piece O-rings
Injector O-rings
IM gaskets (replace with new due to IM removal)
Throttle-body gasket

Here's a TIS procedure for IM removal (M54 engine but in an e46)

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/06/04/29

[Dmascarin]

I have everything disconnected that I can see. The intake manifold is up and off just over the bolts and that's as far as I can move it. I have seen every picture and DIY on the inter-web and I don't know why this think won't come out!

I have read that the throttle body doesn't need to be removed on the e39 m54's, that it will come out attached to the manifold.

The fuel rail is still attached, as it is also mounted to the manifold.

I believe that there is a 17mm nut holding the manifold to a mount that I can't even see. Can someone verify this and tell me if my new mission is to remove the TB, which is now near impossible to access because I have even less room to get all up in the underside of the manifold?

All I need to do is slide this thing over to get that inlet pipe changed out!!!

[sean911sc]

At this point - remove whats needed to get your access. If I was nearer I stop by and help.

[pleiades]

I have everything disconnected that I can see. The intake manifold is up and off just over the bolts and that's as far as I can move it. I have seen every picture and DIY on the inter-web and I don't know why this think won't come out!

I have read that the throttle body doesn't need to be removed on the e39 m54's, that it will come out attached to the manifold.

The fuel rail is still attached, as it is also mounted to the manifold.

I believe that there is a 17mm nut holding the manifold to a mount that I can't even see. Can someone verify this and tell me if my new mission is to remove the TB, which is now near impossible to access because I have even less room to get all up in the underside of the manifold?

All I need to do is slide this thing over to get that inlet pipe changed out!!!

Did you read the TIS procedure in the link I listed?

[Dmascarin]

Did you read the TIS procedure in the link I listed?

I sure did, thanks! It was helpful but the mounting bolt in that procedure is not on mine. I've managed to get the TB almost all the way out- 4 bolts removed, main clamp off, but that small vent clamp is facing an impossible direction to get it off (which makes me think it really doesn't need to come out separately). There has to be something simple I am missing! I can wiggle the TB around but no dice yet.

There are so many small changes over from the 46 and even over the years on the 39 that make this task really clumsy no matter how many pics you've seen or write-ups you've read. I'll keep at it and report back.

All I want is to get this over with so I can go get my new M5 bumper painted and try out this BMW Scanner 1.4.0 that came yesterday!

[av8r4aa]

Will the older style metal pipe exchange for the newer plastic version?
I plan on doing mine and would rather buy metal and be done with it.

[Bimmoto]

looks like I am in the right place here. I have all 9 nuts off and the I'M is lose. How can I see this 17mm nut?. Thanks

- - - Updated - - -

Anybody out there? Still looking but can't see any big bolt:-(

Thanks
bimmoto

[av8r4aa]

It's the bolt on the bottom .
Holds iM up from bottom side.

You need to do a lot more work than plopping new plastic pipe on.
Both the upper and lower were nearly eaten through.
When I pulled the pipe off, the end was stuck in the block.
There was also corrosion at the site that needed to be buffed out.

You will also need to see that he area of contact between the intake and block
are surgical room clean. Take your time, or you will be re doing this job.

[Bimmoto]

wow...found it. Once I saw it, not a big deal with an 8" extension and 17mm swivel socket. I put a little wheel-bearing grease in the socket so I didn't drop the nut. It worked great, I'll do the Same thing going back in. Also, knowone really gave a good description of where the bolt was located. I found it with a mirror and a small led flash light. I also noticed that it was shown in "Jinbtown" very first picture in this string. You can see the threaded stud directly between the blue wire tie and the orange gasket. For a point of reference, I would say its about 2-3 inches from the back of the starter (another fun job, I'm sure)

av8r4aa, thanks for the response. It kept me going!

jinbtown, thanks for the pictures!

[av8r4aa]

Brother Bimmoto,
I just finished the job you are on. I went all out and did a LOT of extra work.
I changed out EVERY coolant hose and pipe. If it held coolant, it got replaced.
Since the starter on my car was 160K old, I installed a brand new one.
Same with alternator. There is a lot of things in there that need attention by now.

If you intend to keep the car for say, another 8 years, might consider doing a mid-life overhaul.
I did just that and the car is so smooth and nice now.
Absolutely no worries about a marginal cooling system here in Dallas.
In fact, stuck in traffic yesterday, on the black top, 2 in the afternoon,
Outside air temp read 114!. That was when I glanced at my temp gauge it was rock steady
at just a smidge left of 12:00.
As I was crawling along, I cold hear the brand new clutch fan and blade clawing at the air
like a pissed off and fed up WWII propeller fighter plane.
It's really got a ton of thrust now!
AC was pumping out friged air and I was smiling !

[Sroor9001]

Do you need to remove oil filter housing and power steering pump. Throttle body, fuel lines and rail ??
I've read that no need to remove it and can you give us a picture of the location of that 17mm bolt ?

- - - Updated - - -

wow...found it. Once I saw it, not a big deal with an 8" extension and 17mm swivel socket. I put a little wheel-bearing grease in the socket so I didn't drop the nut. It worked great, I'll do the Same thing going back in. Also, knowone really gave a good description of where the bolt was located. I found it with a mirror and a small led flash light. I also noticed that it was shown in "Jinbtown" very first picture in this string. You can see the threaded stud directly between the blue wire tie and the orange gasket. For a point of reference, I would say its about 2-3 inches from the back of the starter (another fun job, I'm sure)

av8r4aa, thanks for the response. It kept me going!

jinbtown, thanks for the pictures!

Do you need to remove oil filter housing and power steering pump. Throttle body, fuel lines and rail ??
I've read that no need to remove it and can you give us a picture of the location of that 17mm bolt ?

[Jmcin696]

So I spent a few weeks replacing the coolant pipes and hoses under the Intake Manifold. I followed the job using the instructions from this thread, Youtube, and the Bentley manual. So I took pics and I got started. However, there is a vaccum hose that goes on top of the fuel rail that for the life of me I cannot find where it goes. I took a picture before I started and all I can see is that the hose goes under the engine by the vanos oil pipe. I believe the hose is 3.5mm. I have no idea what it connects to. Can someone help?