Sorry, but this original DIY was written by me in my language - russian. Google did the translation.
So ... has long been lying idle automatic climate from M3 E36.
However, my hands could not reach to buy a control unit (the one with the buttons) and everything is set. But in the Wednesday 9 December this year (2009), I decided to change my air conditioner from manual to automatic. So that was purchased the unit.
photo stove itself and the connectors
Preparation.
The first thing I removed the front panel
All washed and cleaned and brought back, was like a new
Just make out and washed all the stove, cleaned and oiled the fan. Incidentally, all the moving parts in the stove, such as motors and the "door" also need to grease, then no sound when operating the stove in the future will not be heard.
home, hooked up to a 12 volt microwave oven with the power and check that everything worked
Installation
Disassembly.
Day One ... morning, 8:30 in the morning.
appreciate the forthcoming volume of work
and fotogafiruyu lounge yet
manually controlled air conditioning.
Disconnect the battery and wait for 15 minutes.
1) remove glovebox and protect the driver's feet (if the car is American, to decrypt the driver's knees)
2) Remove the wheel. On the reverse side steering unscrew 2 bolts (star)
disconnect connector pads and the signal
unscrew the central bolt (16) and remove the wheel
disconnect connector pads and steering
3) Turn off the dashboard
and remove, podkovyrnuv knife, for example. On the back of 3 slots.
4) We obtain BC, radio panel and manual air conditioning.
remove all krutelki and unscrew 2 screws underneath
otschelkivaem panel and retrieve the unit, disconnect all connectors and cable.
5) We remove the tub for glasses, disconnect the connectors from the heater buttons, cigarette lighters, etc.
remove the cover backstage PPC, rose parolon and dims the scenes. Then it can be removed.
smimaem cover parking brake, pull out the ashtray
Turn off the console parking brake here
and zdes.Ubiraem console and open it 2 screws and 1 plast.gayku, kot.stali visible from the end, at the junction parking brake and gearshift console.
Turn off two countersunk screws (another left)
2 more screws here
the one with the other hand
Last edited by dancerst; 12-21-2010 at 08:34 PM.
2 screws on each side of the bottom (opposite). Remove the console gearshift.
So, we get a picture. The arrows indicate the mounting bolts air bag, next to disable the port.
Turn off and snmaem right corner. The second screw from the bottom.
open the door and side panel unscrew the bolt (13). On the other hand, too.
otschelkivaem ducts windshield and find
3 screws under them, the left-center-right.
you can now remove the "torpedo", but do not forget to remove the lining of front legs and disconnect the cable from the hot air oven (left oven )
Next we need to remove the metal frame, so
We turn off here (near the driver's door)
here (passenger side)
here (on the back-nut)
and here
just unscrew 2 long bolts on the steering column mounts.
Now open the hood and out of the car
remove the grill and all the gum
We turn off tapping
unscrew 2 screws and remove the metal protection.
Behind her we see the back of the stove.
On the right and the left side of the stove to unscrew 2 nuts, as well as the right to unscrew a nut coolant hoses. Now remove the plastic hose connection to the stove and close the tube on the furnace tubes, otherwise all will be antifreeze in the cabin.
On the left side of the stove, Allen Turn off the tube freon (pre-release entire Freon through the valve).
Now go back to the salon, disconnect connectors stove and get it. Here's what happened
Build
The assembly is done in reverse order. The stove is connected to the old terminals. After installation, you'll fill the conditioner and refill the coolant. And also, necessarily, razvozdushit cooling system.
Since BC in the car I put myself too, I have no system of independent ventilation. To put it is not difficult, but I did not do that at this time.
I put the stove itself on the first day (finished work at 5 pm, after dark), and the rest remained on the second day.
As the forces I have anything more was not, I did not photograph the reverse process, and made ready only option ...
Thus, the automatic oven is installed and working! Spent 2 days and a lot of nerves!
I hope the material will be useful!
Last edited by dancerst; 12-21-2010 at 08:33 PM.
Independent ventilation system was installed... but it just doesn’t work, the blower relay is clicking, but the climate unit does not allow blower motor to start...
but if you dissconnect blu-red wire from the climate it works good.
AUC sensor was installed after few weeks, nothing difficult, just 3 wires from sensor to climate unit and 1 to the ground.
WOW, that was a lot of work. Looks good!
That's quite a bit of work to install... an "automatic oven" (damn you google Translate!)
I'd rather keep manual A/C, thankfully I've got automatic woot!
Good DIY, but IMO you spent countless hours and effort making your car more complicated and prone to breaking with no real benefit.
Doesn't look hard enough. What about if my car didn't come with AC? How hard is it then? Basically I want stuff just because I can. Installing cruise control soon which I don't ever plan to use Well maybe 500 miles out of 10,000.
I’ve tried both types of climate so I can tell... it was worth it.
I don't regret an would do this again
My friend’s car didn’t come with AC but we installed everything and it’s workig fine. Actually the work under the hood a little bit easier. But when you installing AC you need to do some wires too.
Last edited by dancerst; 12-18-2010 at 09:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I like it how you use the words "oven" and "stove" to describe the heater core (and "automatic oven" for automatic climate control).
But great job. Did you also hook up AUC?
Slocar: that is not the point. It just cool to have and matches the CD43 head unit and OBC perfectly.
When I went looking for the right car, it having digital climate control was mandatory.
Now let's not hope his dash is now squeaking, which happens a lot when it's been taken out.
For AC you need all the plumbing, condensor, dryer, pusher fan, relays and compressor and all the mounting brackets + wiring it all up.
It's all doable of course, but if you want something hard enough, give this a try.
Last edited by MParallel; 12-22-2010 at 08:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
^ I understand that and I'm all for matching, but really to me it's not worth it, especially for something that (in my opinion) is worse in every other way except for looks.
It wasn’t me... it’s google
Actually I wasn’t even worried about this when I started and I was right, there is no sounds from the dash, just need to be careful when install everything back.
No problem, I wasn't making fun of you, but this shows how much a translator can know.
I must have read over the part of the AUC being installed. Yes it's very easy, completely useless, but again, one of the things that is just cool to have.
I have to admit, my AUC is on all the time. And I like the extra symbol and light on the switch.
Nice to hear it doesn't squeak now. I never (had) to remove the dash. So how is it actually fastened to the car? Are there a couple of bolts you need to undo at the underside?
Slocar: I understand modding like this isn't for everyone, but apart from him doing it, how is this system worse than what he had before? Yes it is more complicated, but when everything on both systems is working how it should work, the digital version has more settings and options, so can't possibly be worse.
And well, you already agreed on the matching stuff, you can't get a nicer look in an E36 than the digital control panel + CD43 headunit.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Last edited by dancerst; 12-23-2010 at 10:44 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
What do you mean better place? More clean? Oh I didn't mean that AUC was completely useless because of my place, but in general. It's more of a gimmick, although the system itself does work. But how much it prevents from bad odors to enter the cabine...
Couldn't make out from the pictures all the dashboard's screws location.
1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL
IG: https://www.instagram.com/iflok/
Please post link for Russian version. I'm from Serbia and understand Russian.
Thank You in advance (hate Google translate )
Вот моя статья на русском.... ))
http://www.e36club.ru/forum/showthread.php?t=181127
Finally got around to this. It's all wired up just needs the parts for the engine side and wire in the relay properly. Thanks for the guide.
Just need to figure out what to do with the relay.
man, impressive job... I need to fix my evaporator, the AC gas is leaking inside the car, so I'll use your DIY to reach the HVAC unit and take it to repair.
thanks
Erico from Brazil
Did it really take all that to change from knobs to buttons?
I would rather have knobs. I hate when the weather goes from 70s to 30s, and I have to use the stupid little button to turn the thermostat up so it actually blows warm, and then do it AGAIN for the other side.
Hi dancerst,
The information given by you is very informative. I tried to change my manual air conditioner to the automatic air conditioner .It took me two days to change it. You explained the complete procedure with pictures form it is very good.
Bookmarks