The following is a generic DIY, true for Mazda, Honda, BMW or whatever car you have.
The rotor screw, in 99.9999% of Japanese and European cars, is the 6mm type.
DIY: How to drill stuck rotor screw
The following is a generic procedure for any rotors with stuck rotor screw. I use Mazda6 rotor (almost identical setup as Honda) for illustration purpose. BMW rotor screw sometimes get stuck after so many years in there.
This is why whenever you work on any brake job in any car, have those spare rotor screws ready.
NOTE:
1- Honda screw is M6 thread type. The head widest part is 12 mm. FYI: BMW uses Allen head.
2- Thread is 6mm, Head is 12mm, so use a 9mm or 11/32" drill bit. The rotor screw is made from soft metal, so when drilling it out, the moment you hit the rotor (which is made from much harder metal), you will hear a different sound/feel etc. ---> then stop drilling.
By now, you should have a "ring" at the tip of your drill bit.
3. Once the rotor is off (if rotor is stuck, use extractor bolts as mentioned on the 1st page of this thread to remove the rotor). Then remove the remaining part of the rotor screw with your fingers or vice-grip.
Pretty simple, isn't it? Go tell your mom you just did something good today!
Great stuff cnn! Thank you!
I had a stuck rotor screw about two weeks ago. Had me stymied for about an hour, I just could not break the seize. In the end, I grabbed the rotor, at the edge opposite the screw, and wiggled it back and forth. At that point it must have broken the seize. I could then get it out normally. I'll need to go in there soon and replace it, because the female hex got a bit deformed.
I put anti-seize on my rotor screws now.
Last edited by Graham E39 528i; 11-17-2010 at 01:18 PM.
I dremeled a notch into one side, stuck an old screwdriver in the notch, and pounded on it with a hammer until it turned.
Theory of Brute Force Method Applied: If Brute Force Method is not working, you are not using enough force.
1991 M5 (in progress)
Restoring an old BMW, God help me.
Very awesome job Cam.
Thank you!
I have seen this DIY video too.
Good stuff IMO.
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AqcIKRO3sjM[/ame]
Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …
I've always used the following combo with great success:
- PB Blaster
- 1/2" drive Phillips head socket
- 1/2" Breaker bar
Key thing is to sloooowwly torque it out, and making sure the phillips tip is seated well (it helps to have a blunt and sharp phillips socket).
(But the OP method works and is easy too! )
Last edited by jmai86; 11-17-2010 at 01:54 PM.
Thanks for sharing, I am sure I will need this one day...
UNDER CONSTRUCTION
- 2000 528i Sport -
Got any questions about my car? Feel free to PM me!
i did pretty much the exact same thing a couple months back, and i'll be doing it when I do the rear rotors in the spring. as long as you have a new screw for it and are paying attention so u don't over-drill, it's very quick and painless. Easiest way to do it if u know you're trashing the screw anyway.
this should never happen if you use correct torque which i believe is 6 or 8 fl only for this screw
+1 on anti-seize
thanks for sharing !
Last edited by champaign777; 11-17-2010 at 05:34 PM.
If the part of the screw that the bit fits (philips, hex socket (allen), or straight blade) is not too badly deformed, there is a tool that has been around for many years that works well in these circumstances. It is a hammer driven impact driver. It uses cam type action to rotate the bit in the direction you wish to turn the fastner while the hammer provides 'shock' type impact to help break the fastner loose. I first started using one over 40 years ago, when I first started working on cars, to remove brake drum retaining screws. I have never had one fail to remove a fastner, as long as the head was reasonably intact, and you fit the right size driver bit to the head. They are not that expensive (usually less than $20.00), just be sure to use hardened impact designed bits.
Even easier method, torx(forgot size) male socket on an impact driver-- http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog and couple of hits with hammer while twisting the impact driver counterclockwise-takes 5 seconds to do it.
Last edited by supra94tt; 11-17-2010 at 06:58 PM.
i use impact driver (not the air impact tools)...works like a charm...
no drill... no frustration...
just a couple of heavy hammer strikes and the bolts will just break loose... u wont even break a sweat...
i have this tools for years..
the photo below is just to give u an idea..not the actual tool i have ..mine are all black..
Last edited by ganzibye; 11-17-2010 at 07:06 PM.
2000 BMW 528i / Manual Tranny / Sport & Premium package / Xenon headlight / Sport seats / Premium sound / DSC /
2011 BMW X3
Forgot to mention that I wrote this DIY for those stubborn rotor screws that refuse to come out even with Impact Driver!
It is worse with Phillips screws used in Japanese cars (Honda, Mazda etc.).
BMW uses Allen head so it is less of a problem but some in the forums have faced this problem before even with Impact Driver:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=521060
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=57079
OK, if the head of the fastener has been too badly damaged, then your method is necessary. I have used your method in those circumstances. My original point was that if the correct tool is initially used properly, the chances of damaging the head of the fastener are greatly reduced, and you won't have to resort to your method.
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