Vacuum Reservoir Delete?

[genuity]

Does anyone know if there would be reprocussions (codes being thrown), if the electrical connector for electric valve in the rear driver tail light area is unplugged?

This electric valve helps to engage the vacuum for the exhaust butterfly flap and also the vacuum reservoir plays a role in this.

From what see, this vacuum reservoir plugs into the intake manifold, then the other side runs through the firewall and into the driver foot well somewhere as observed in this hissing problem in the cabin:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=533035

The black line with blue stripe is that vacuum line from the vacuum reservoir. I haven't seen where it runs, but I am sure it converts over to some sort of solid black tube as pictured with the electric valve in the trunk.

I essentially wanted to delete this thing and was wondering what it all effects. If all the vacuum reservoir's purpose is to build up vacuum to operate the butterfly valve for the exhaust then for me it no longer serves a purpose since I had my valve and tips cut off for new tips. The exhaust guy just plugged up the line from the back there. I'd rather just delete it all if I can.

Does anyone know if there is anything between the vacuum reservoir and this electric valve in the trunk? I looked at the diagram and do not see anything. Does anyone think that electric valve is only sent an electrical signal after a certain RPM? Is there even some sort of sensor in that thing where if the DME didn't receive a feedback it will complain?

EDIT: By the way, the dummy plug for the intake manifold has a part number of 11611727176. I would be ordering one of these to plug that port up, if I go through with the delete. I guess I can always just unplug that electric valve and run it for a week and see what happens.

[genuity]

I have been driving for the past couple days with the electrical connector for the electric valve from the trunk area disconnected. No SES lights or anything.

I'll pull codes this weekend to see if there were any that triggered under the radar. I have that dummy plug on order and when it comes in, I'll remove the line from the intake manifold and plug it up then see how things go.

[chefsboss]

You can also do the famous "golf tee mod" to keep that flap open if that is your intended result.

[genuity]

You can also do the famous "golf tee mod" to keep that flap open if that is your intended result.

I already sawed off the faux OEM chrome tips and that butterfly flap and had real chrome dipped stainless steel tips welded on. The only thing there that is unnecessary is the vacuum line, electric valve, and overall in the engine compartment that vacuum reservoir as well as inside the cabin those vacuum tubes.

Besides, I'll be swapping out the resonators and muffler soon with the TSE3

I posted close up pics of the exhaust butterfly flap mechanism here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...2&postcount=30

and here:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...5&postcount=31

[genuity]

I've been driving with the vacuum reservoir unplugged from the intake manifold and have plugged up the intake manifold where the vacuum reservoir formerly plugs into, and I also plugged up the vacuum reservoir that goes into the intake manifold.

No codes whatsoever and the analog MPG gauge still works fine, so I guess the gauge is operated in another manner of some sort.

So looks like this thing can be deleted. Now comes the fun part of tracing down all the vacuum tubing to extract out of the vehicle.

[newtoe46]

How hard was it to get to the port where the vacuum reservoir plugs into? what needs to be removed in order to get to it and plug it up?

I've disconnected the valve in the trunk so far no issues. Just waiting on your input as to how feasible it is to plug up the port in the intake.

[genuity]

How hard was it to get to the port where the vacuum reservoir plugs into? what needs to be removed in order to get to it and plug it up?

I've disconnected the valve in the trunk so far no issues. Just waiting on your input as to how feasible it is to plug up the port in the intake.

To get to the port on the intake manifold where the vacuum reservoir plugs into you have to take off the cabin filter and the part that it sits on...just a couple of torx bolts and that should give you access to the back of the intake manifold. It is pretty tight but you should be able to get to it.

I just have it temporarily plugged up now, both a tube going into the intake manifold and also the tube from the vacuum reservoir.

Attached pic just shows the tube from the vacuum reservoir with the golf tee on it. I secured it with zip ties to the sucking jet pump (that has a tube that goes to the intake manifold and the other to the brake booster), so that it does not flop around.

What I do not have pictured is that another one of those vacuum tubes into the port on the intake manifold (4th picture in first post, you can see it labeled intake-manifold-vacuum-side-ports.jpg), and the other end of that vacuum hose, I plugged it with the golf tee. So the picture not taken was the one where I have both vacuum hoses golf teed secured with zip ties to that top hose of the sucking jet pump that goes to the brake booster.

This is just temporary until I take more parts apart for this second phase overhaul...auto to manual conversion among other things. I'll fully delete--remove the vacuum reservoir, put a plug on the take manifold (now that I know there are no issues whatsoever and that the vacuum reservoir's sole purpose is to operate that butterfly valve on the exhaust), and take out as many vacuum lines as possible.

I'll see if I can take more pics as I tear her apart.

[newtoe46]

To get to the port on the intake manifold where the vacuum reservoir plugs into you have to take off the cabin filter and the part that it sits on...just a couple of torx bolts and that should give you access to the back of the intake manifold. It is pretty tight but you should be able to get to it.

I just have it temporarily plugged up now, both a tube going into the intake manifold and also the tube from the vacuum reservoir.

Attached pic just shows the tube from the vacuum reservoir with the golf tee on it. I secured it with zip ties to the sucking jet pump (that has a tube that goes to the intake manifold and the other to the brake booster), so that it does not flop around.

What I do not have pictured is that another one of those vacuum tubes into the port on the intake manifold (4th picture in first post, you can see it labeled intake-manifold-vacuum-side-ports.jpg), and the other end of that vacuum hose, I plugged it with the golf tee. So the picture not taken was the one where I have both vacuum hoses golf teed secured with zip ties to that top hose of the sucking jet pump that goes to the brake booster.

This is just temporary until I take more parts apart for this second phase overhaul...auto to manual conversion among other things. I'll fully delete--remove the vacuum reservoir, put a plug on the take manifold (now that I know there are no issues whatsoever and that the vacuum reservoir's sole purpose is to operate that butterfly valve on the exhaust), and take out as many vacuum lines as possible.

I'll see if I can take more pics as I tear her apart.

Thanks for the tips. It looks like i'll have to wait until I rebuild the intake manifold and install new CCV hoses and valves.

[nathancarter]

No codes whatsoever and the analog MPG gauge still works fine, so I guess the gauge is operated in another manner of some sort.

I'm pretty sure that gauge is driven (at least in part) by the computer and NOT strictly a vacuum gauge. If you take it out of gear, leave the engine at idle, and coast to a stop, the gauge will show steadily decreasing fuel economy, at least until it hits its bottom range and resets to its at-rest position - even though the engine has been idling the whole time.

I think it's calculated based on instantaneous car speed divided by instantaneous fuel consumption - the same data that feeds the OBC MPG computer. With a completely computer-controlled engine management system, there's no reason they would have to rely on a simple vacuum gauge.

Sorry for the thread hijack.

[genuity]

Sorry for the thread hijack.

No thread jack at all--I was hoping someone could shed light on this, since it was briefly mentioned in that first fanatics link.

I still think its so stupidly inaccurate and do not know why BMW choose to shove it down the line since the E30s. Gladly the geniuses grew brains and did not implement it in the E9x's...one model too late I guess. I saw that gauge in the E36 and I wasn't impressed at all. Although I wish they never shoved the OBC into the tiny space in the cluster and cut off more than half the daily displayed functions. They should have just kept the E36's OBC and expanded it. I missed the large scrolling screen

[Hornung418]

So why do my gauges sound like winding clocks every time they change position? Like when I'm letting off the clutch and the mpg drops for a sec then spikes back to 15mpg...I just hear whining gears...like a mini diff. whine in my cluster.

[nathancarter]

So why do my gauges sound like winding clocks every time they change position? Like when I'm letting off the clutch and the mpg drops for a sec then spikes back to 15mpg...I just hear whining gears...like a mini diff. whine in my cluster.

Mine does the same thing.

It's still a mechanical needle, so there has to be some sort of gearing driving the needle position... I think? hmmm. interesting, but not interesting enough to tear open my cluster to see what makes that needle move.

[newtoe46]

Mine does the same thing.

It's still a mechanical needle, so there has to be some sort of gearing driving the needle position... I think? hmmm. interesting, but not interesting enough to tear open my cluster to see what makes that needle move.

It's some sort of servo-- I ran the INPA Instrument cluster special test and I heard all sorts servo and gear noises.

I also removed the vacuum reservoir and have had no issues.

[genuity]

A blast from the past but I got around to finishing this up over a year ago and have been busy so just wanted to provide an update with part numbers for reference.

The port where the hose from the vacuum reservoir plugs into the intake manifold, get BMW part number 11611727176. It comes from the E39 (M54B30) manifold and fits like a glove as it should.

The hose from section that runs through the firewall into the cabin, I just put a golf tee and cut the large tip off of it to plug it up. I didn't bother to remove the hose and track down the blind plug small enough to plug up the firewall.

As for the rear where the hose from the electronic valve runs through the body to the exhaust flap mechanism, after you get rid of that hose, you will want to use BMW part number 51712258519, a blind plug identical to the factory one already in place next to it for a nice seal.

For those with the exhaust flap in place, you'll want to make sure it stays open all the time when doing this vacuum reservoir delete. I have an aftermarket catback so its totally unnecessary, besides if I stayed with the stock exhaust, I would have deleted it and left the stuck open flap.

[eph6jonprice]

Does anyone know if there would be reprocussions (codes being thrown), if the electrical connector for electric valve in the rear driver tail light area is unplugged?

This electric valve helps to engage the vacuum for the exhaust butterfly flap and also the vacuum reservoir plays a role in this.

From what see, this vacuum reservoir plugs into the intake manifold, then the other side runs through the firewall and into the driver foot well somewhere as observed in this hissing problem in the cabin:


The black line with blue stripe is that vacuum line from the vacuum reservoir. I haven't seen where it runs, but I am sure it converts over to some sort of solid black tube as pictured with the electric valve in the trunk.

I essentially wanted to delete this thing and was wondering what it all effects. If all the vacuum reservoir's purpose is to build up vacuum to operate the butterfly valve for the exhaust then for me it no longer serves a purpose since I had my valve and tips cut off for new tips. The exhaust guy just plugged up the line from the back there. I'd rather just delete it all if I can.

Does anyone know if there is anything between the vacuum reservoir and this electric valve in the trunk? I looked at the diagram and do not see anything. Does anyone think that electric valve is only sent an electrical signal after a certain RPM? Is there even some sort of sensor in that thing where if the DME didn't receive a feedback it will complain?

EDIT: By the way, the dummy plug for the intake manifold has a part number of 11611727176. I would be ordering one of these to plug that port up, if I go through with the delete. I guess I can always just unplug that electric valve and run it for a week and see what happens.

Not sure if you're still checking this, but my vacuum lines got all screwed around by someone... the one that is supposed to connect from the f-connector to the regulator on the fuel filter for example, was completely MIA, and the vacuum reservoir line was plugged into the f-connector instead! I have righted the problem with the fuel filter regulator, but am having a hard time figuring out where the vacuum reservoir line goes into the intake manifold, unless something is wrongly plugged into that one too! Can you help me orient the pic you have of the intake manifold here? Is the DISA what sits on the other side, or are these plugs directly on the rear facing the firewall? Thanks very much if you can help, your picture is already a great start!

[genuity]

Not sure if you're still checking this, but my vacuum lines got all screwed around by someone... the one that is supposed to connect from the f-connector to the regulator on the fuel filter for example, was completely MIA, and the vacuum reservoir line was plugged into the f-connector instead! I have righted the problem with the fuel filter regulator, but am having a hard time figuring out where the vacuum reservoir line goes into the intake manifold, unless something is wrongly plugged into that one too! Can you help me orient the pic you have of the intake manifold here? Is the DISA what sits on the other side, or are these plugs directly on the rear facing the firewall? Thanks very much if you can help, your picture is already a great start!

Hope these help The first pseudo drawing with pictures was for someone else asking about where all the vacuum lines go since it is quite hard to see where what goes what between the intake manifold and the firewall. The ports you see there in the right most picture faces the firewall and dash.