*DIY e34 Rear door window regulator removal and replacement guide

[Boom n Zoom]

Firstly I would like to apologise for the amount of photographs and some of the dubious quality of some of them, I was taking the photographs myself as I was carrying out the work and sometimes it was a little tricky to hold the job and take the photographs at the same time.
Also that it is over five seperate posts, not trying to whore, just can't post more than 30 tags at a time.

I also hope that you guys find it useful and helpful if you ever have to tackle the job yourselves, it's not a hard proceedure, just requires patience.

Enjoy!


Well three years and four months after the rear regulators failed within a week of each other. I have finally obtained a brand new pair of Genuine Electric Rear Window Regulators at a sensible price from BMA.

The reason for the need to replace the regulators was due to the bushing on the right hand side regulator that controls the level of the glass that had popped off the arm.I had repaired it by repressing the bush back onto the ballend, but it failed a few days later again. The passengers side window also failed with a loud report and on inspection I discovered the same bushing in two pieces (split vertically) in the bottom of the door.

So after a protracted search, I have discovered that replacement bushes are simply not available as an aftermarket option, you have to replace the regulators.


The format that I am doing this is Information first, associated image following.
Just to avoid any confusion.


1. After removal of the door trim and the foam backed vinyl sound deadening material (No doubt covered elsewhere, if not I can add this) you will be faced with an electrically driven window regulator. (Note: The window is in the fully closed position here)


2. Now as it has turned out someone has been in here before me and replaced the regulator before as it was not riveted in (as is the norm) and was bolted in with three 6 x 12mm (3/16th" x 1/2") bolts (10mm, 3/8th heads) with Nyloc nuts which is the correct method to carry out these replacements.


Note2a. In the case of an original fitment the regulator assembly is riveted into the door frame.
As seen here.


And here.






This will be the case with most of these assemblies to remove them.

2b. Firstly double check that the window is in the fully up position as you will have to drill out the rivets using a 6.5mm drill, and if you don't you will break the glass. If you have to replace the glass (especially if it is tinted) it will likely cost the GDP of a small African nation to obtain from the Dealer, not to mention the time it will take them to get one.
So, check the window is up then drill the rivets out using a 6.5mm HSS bit.


2c. Once they are all drilled out you can continue with the removal proceedure.


3. Remove the limit switch



4. Held in with an 'R' Clip (NOTE: This is the orientation of the clip, it fits between the four posts)


5. With a 10mm spanner loosen the window trim bolt so as to remove it with your fingers later.


6. Connect the rear door trim window switch (this is required as you cannot drive the window, yes even from the Master without the switch connected) With the Ignition in position 2, lower the window to halfway, at least enough to access the top center bolt.


Remove both the top center and the front lower regulator bolts.


7. Then wind the window all the way down to clear the rear regulator bolt and nut and remove.




Continued.... in *DIY e34 Window regulator removal and replacement proceedure Part 2

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8. With side cutters, snip the cable tie to release the wiring as you need to move it.


9. Then unplug the regulator motor (Grey two pin plug)



10. Remove the window trim bolt loosened in Step 5. Then you can gently pull the regulator away from the door, but not too much as you want to slide the lower rail clips out of their tracks.
Firstly the back guide clip sliding it toward the front of the door(you may need a little force as the white grease has probably become very viscous. Keep sliding until you clear the rail.


11. Then carefully closing the 'scissor' of the regulator slide the assembly toward the rear of the door to remove the front guide clip.


11a. The closed scissor and the angle I used to remove the front guide clip


12. Once you have cleared both of the guide clips (hopefully without breaking them) you can remove the regulator and motor assembly from the door shell.


13. With the regulator on the bench firstly remove the limit plate (10mm bolt)


13a. The opposite side.


13b. The limit assembly.


14. Using a T-30 Torx bit remove the two torx head coarse thread screws from the back of the regulator holding the motor and wormdrive.


15. To remove the final Torx screw you can gently lever the motor assembly away enough to disengage the drive to move the regulator arm toward you (in this picture) to clear access to the final screw.


15a. to clear access to the final screw.


16. Once you have access undo the Torx screw.


17. Once all the screws are removed separate the motor and drive assembly from the regulator frame.


Continued in rear door Window regulator removal and replacement proceedure Part 3

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18. Now for the Guide clips, I've heard plenty of people saying you should get new ones as you will break them when you remove the regulator from the door. As I hadn't ordered any (Completely forgot about them to be honest) the pressure was on to make sure I didn't break them at this point as I had got them this far without damage.

18a. Firstly remove the clip, a decent set of pliers will work here.


18b. Then pivot the clip through 90 degrees.


18c. Place a pair of longnose pliers between the clip and the regulator arm.


18d. No need to squeeze the pliers, just pry gently upward.


18e. Repeat again for the other clip.

18f. Two guide clips removed without breakage! (Not in shot is the spring clip for the upper arm)


19. This black clip is to be fitted back onto the doorcard (My lefthand rear doorcard is destroyed which is why it is still clipped to the regulator) It is the secure point for the rear of the armrest. The orientation of this is the image is looking from the front of the door toward the back, the beveled edges are the top of the clip.


20. To remove the clip.

20a. Get your fingers under the clip and apply 'some' force toward you.


20b. With pliers (Longnose are good for this) squeeze the two spring tags closed (Still holding some tension from behind?? if not do so to allow the clip to unseat)


20c. Once the tags are compressed, with your fingers pry the clip toward you.


20d. Remove the clip and refit to the doorcard (Sorry don't have any pictures of this step, but the cutout in the doorcard is blatently obvious.)


21. Take your shiny new regulator


21a. Remove the limit block from this one as well and set aside.


21b. Move the regulator arm enough to access the position of the covered screw and fit all the Torx screws once the motor assembly is married up to the new regulator.


21c. Once assembled move the regulator arm around to begin to engage the teeth


21d. With a 12v power source (I took the unit back out to the car and patched the motor back in to do this) operate the motor and move the arm to the left (as in the image) to re-engage the teeth of the regulator.


Continued in Rear door Window regulator removal and replacement proceedure Part 4

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21e. Once the drive on the unit is engaged run it until there is room for the limit block.


21f. Disconnect the motor from the power source and prepare to refit the limit block.


21g. Re-fit the limit block.


21h. Flip the unit (holding the limit block)


21i Refit the top plate.


21j And fit the bolt, but don't tighten it up just yet.


22. Now refit the guide blocks on the ball fittings.


23. Simply firmly press fit the blocks, they will click into position.


24. Once they are fitted onto the ballends refit the spring clips.


25. They will just press fit into the detent grooves on either side of the guide bush.




26. The completed Regulator ready for refiting to the door.


27. Reverse the proceedure in step 10. Prior to refitting I sprayed some Dry Glide (with PTFE) into the rails to assist in the refitting. If you reverse the proceedure for taking them out i.e. the front of the door bush first then pivot the regulator to align the rear bush you should have no trouble.

28. Once the regulator is back in the guide rails you can apply power to the motor and carefully run it into position to refit the bolts and nyloc nuts. I also refit the bolt for the window trim arm, centered it and nipped it up.


29. Refit the limit switch (with the 'R' clip) back into position and run the window all the way up. Reach in behind the regulator to where the limit block is fitted and check (by feel) that the regulator arm has reached the block, re-run it down and check the arm to block position again. If required you can adjust the position of the limit block (vertically) to make sure that it is contacting the arm in both positions.



Continued in Rear door Window regulator removal and replacement proceedure Part 5

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30. If the window rocks forward and backward you need to readjust the trim arm at the rear of the door, do not over tighten the forward position for the glass as it will cause a good deal of drag and cause premature wear on the wormdrive and could lead to failure of the regulator or the motor and wormdrive unit.


31. Place another cable tie over the wiring it doesn't need to be squash tight it just needs to secure the wiring from fouling the regulator and causing a dead short.




Now you should have a functioning electric rear window again, it shouldn't require any adjustment, but the main two adjustment points are the limit block and the rear window trim arm. Pretty easy to check and adjust now that you have performed a remove and replacment of the regulator assembly.

Enjoy your working window

[jehu]

Well done. I have needed to do this for some time.. panel's been off for maybe a year,lol.. Thanks ever so much!

[KBHumphrey]

Now that's how you write a DIY. Excellent job, friend. I may just have to take at whack at my back two non-functioning windows...

[HE53]

I need to do this two... Only the drivers front, and the passenger rear windows work in the 540.

Thanks for the write up, maybe I'll order some regulators this week.

[samteezy]

Replacement bushings are an option, btw. Atpartsonline, a seller on ebay, carries them.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Windo...item20b3740f96

Unless I misunderstood what you said about how "replacement bushes are not an option."

[Boom n Zoom]

Jehu, KBHumphry Kessler, samteezy.

Thanks for the comments guys.

And sam, thanks for the heads-up on the replacement bush kit. I didn't bother the check on fleabay as it is not somewhere I frequent when looking for parts. But in this case it is reasonably priced and available here in Oz.