Head gasket DIY 330xi?

[4bus]

Found a deal on a 2001 330xi, it has been diagnosed as a bad head gasket from the local BWM dealership. He has great service history at the dealer and the car looks very clean. No water in oil, and no signs of overheating. He has told me it never overheated just runs rough and smokes out the tail pipe.

I am an experienced ex-auto tech with many tools, however I have worked only on domestic vehicles. Can soemone give me an idea how involved the head gasket replacement is on this engine? Problems commonly ran into or special tools or pullers needed?

I plan on having the head mangna fluxed and checked for true when removed.

Thanks and great forum BTW!

[newtoe46]

nothing special just make sure to torque the head using the adequate torque specs and pattern.

[nathancarter]

How does the dealership know it never overheated? It's very rare for the head gasket to fail without provocation on these engines... not impossible, just way, way less common than overheating. My guess is that the previous owner overheated it, then traded it in when they realized it was damaged.

Cylinder head removal does require a few special tools, and some care. The camshafts are hollow and can break if manhandled, and the VANOS (BMW's dual-camshaft variable valve-timing system) is a little finicky.

Since the block is aluminum and the head bolts are steel, if the head warps, the head bolt threads in the block can be damaged. See below: BMW has issued a service bulletin for this - they regard it as unrepairable and recommend engine replacement, but some folks have reported success in using Time-Sert to repair the threads. Rough guess: Expect a 50% chance of damaged head bolt threads in the block; after that it's up to you whether to replace the engine or Time-Sert it.

Since it's a dealership, they should have access to this service bulletin. Ask if they've performed this service bulletin, that is, checked the head bolts to see if they keep torque. If you do all the work on the head and head gasket, then find out that the head bolts can't be torqued down properly, it'll be a Very Sad Day.

============================
11-06-06

SUBJECT
Head Bolt Threads Pulling Out of Block During Engine Reassembly


MODEL
All Models equipped with M52TU and M54


SITUATION
While performing the torque procedure on the cylinder head during engine reassembly, the head bolt threads strip out of the block. Typically, this occurs during the repair of an engine that has been overheated.

CAUSE
Overheat condition has weakened the structure of the aluminum block assembly in the area of the bolt threads.

PROCEDURE
In cases where an M54 engine needs to be disassembled due to an overheating event, the following steps should be taken:

Before removing the cylinder head, loosen and re-torque each head bolt to ensure thread strength and integrity.

If all head bolts achieve correct torque, proceed with cylinder head removal. Once removed, use a straight edge on the block surface, as well as the cylinder head, to determine any deviation caused by the overheat. Be especially aware of any protrusion of the cylinder liners above the surface of the block.

If a head bolt strips during the re-torque, replace the engine.

[ Copyright © 2006 BMW of North America, LLC ]

[danewilson77]

I have read some horrific threads regarding this. I am recommending don't do eeet. It's a major headache timing the car....

I have never performed a headgasket diy. Forgive my ignorance, but you would have to time it....correct?

[Tom D]

there is a special timing jig for vanos/cam alignment. other than that, nothing special.

see nathan's post above. check head bolts first before committing to buy.

jig here. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-D...ht_1773wt_1167

[4bus]

How does the dealership know it never overheated?

I am sorry if I was not clear, the dealership did the diag and quote, the seller told me it had never been overheated. I checked around for excessive heat signs and could not find any. The tranny fuild and coolant still smell fresh. But of course I am worried because I am not familiar with these cars

Since the block is aluminum and the head bolts are steel, if the head warps, the head bolt threads in the block can be damaged. See below: BMW has issued a service bulletin for this - they regard it as unrepairable and recommend engine replacement, but some folks have reported success in using Time-Sert to repair the threads. Rough guess: Expect a 50% chance of damaged head bolt threads in the block; after that it's up to you whether to replace the engine or Time-Sert it.

Would you use the thread inserts? I wonder if they would affect the gasket or of the block would have to be decked to match the time-serts to the surface?

As far as the cams i can have the head mangafluxed and checked for cracks with the cams still installed, however if the head needs to be refinished they have to come out.

I was told the cams can stay in for a gasket change, is this untrue?

He wants $5k for the car and it has the "M" apperance package. It runs but has an obvious misfire when reved. Car is very clean and has 68k miles. I was looking at it for a winter car. Maybe I can talk him down with this info

there is a special timing jig for vanos/cam alignment. other than that, nothing special.

see nathan's post above. check head bolts first before committing to buy.

jig here. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BMW-Double-VANOS-Camshaft-Alignment-Tool-M52TU-M54-M56-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3f01dca492QQitemZ27061 4176914QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools#ht_1773wt_ 1167

Thanks! That si awesome. Can you clarifiy if the cams haved to be removed? I don't understand if the engine is brought to TDC why everything can't just be marked? I have no experience with VVT so be easy on me

[Tom D]

in order to remove the head i believe the vanos has to be separated from the cams.

i have done BMWs twin cam and single vanos set ups. they can be done without jigs (or make your own).

the double vanos has one special tool that i have never had the opportunity to study.

vanos unit …. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...70&hg=11&fg=15

edit; i thought some more about it. the vanos unit can be removed from the head, no problem. the issue is removing the drive chain and if the cams need to be removed in order to re-deck. if not, than the simple reference timing marks should work. i personally have not done this before.

[nathancarter]

Yes, I misunderstood; I thought it was at a dealership lot. Anyway, I'm pretty skeptical of the seller's claim that it never overheated - the cooling systems on these cars is very sensitive, and a blown water pump or expansion tank, leading to overheating and engine failure, is by far the most catastrophic problem on these cars.

Note, there's also the possibility of a misdiagnosis by the dealership. There are other things that may cause similar symptoms - for instance, a failed CCV (PCV, oil separator, whatever you want to call it) which may be sending excess oil into the cylinders.. resulting in rough running and smoke from the tailpipe. That's not too uncommon in cold climates, the stock CCV in these cars is ill-suited for sustained cold weather and short drives.

Anyway, just throwin' that possibility out there.

Would you use the thread inserts? I wonder if they would affect the gasket or of the block would have to be decked to match the time-serts to the surface?

Based on my tools and skills, I wouldn't personally use the inserts, I'd just get a good warranted used engine. I can get my hands on a hoist and engine stand, and drop in an engine in my garage, but I don't have any real machine shop skill.

If you want a project, though, and you're not in a hurry, the inserts are probably a less expensive alternative.

Thanks! That si awesome. Can you clarifiy if the cams haved to be removed? I don't understand if the engine is brought to TDC why everything can't just be marked? I have no experience with VVT so be easy on me

I don't know if the camshafts have to be removed, but some of the more experienced techs can say.

Brief explanation to clarify the VANOS VVT system:
The main timing chain drives the exhaust camshaft sprocket, then there's a separate chain from the exhaust to the intake. However, the camshafts are not bolted to those sprockets; they are linked by way of a worm gear. The VANOS system has oil-pressure-powered pistons and and solenoids that control the oil pressure. Based on engine needs, the engine computer opens and closes the solenoids, oil pressure pushes the piston in or out; the piston moves the worm gear in or out, and the camshaft changes position relative to the sprocket and crankshaft. Voila!, infinitely variable valve timing on both camshafts. It's different than, say, VTEC which I believe has only two positions.

Note, I did not make these diagrams.

[4bus]

Ok, the $300 bucks for the tool is no big deal. Can you confirm if the cams have to be removed?

Also what about replacing the stock head bolts with head studs from ARP? Is that a good alternative to the problem with these heads?

Still trying to get an answer on why this head gasket went in the first place. Are they common on these engines, or did something else force it to go?

[TC535i]

wait, loosen and retorque the head bolts? they aren't stretch-to-torque like all the other BMW head bolts??

s54 time

[Tom D]

here is a DIY. most of it is common stuff, but he does talk vaguely about the vanos.

http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php

being a Tech, i would think this is with-in your skill level.

the only time i have heard of bad gasket was from overheating. but that's not to say it's the only reason.

Also what about replacing the stock head bolts with head studs from ARP? Is that a good alternative to the problem with these heads?

the problem is that the block is aluminum and the treads strip out. time-serts seem to be the way to go, although not BMW's official direction

here is a better DIY for a single vanos head. not the same, but still relevant.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...aft-Timing.htm

[amdspitfire]

Ok, the $300 bucks for the tool is no big deal. Can you confirm if the cams have to be removed?

Also what about replacing the stock head bolts with head studs from ARP? Is that a good alternative to the problem with these heads?

Still trying to get an answer on why this head gasket went in the first place. Are they common on these engines, or did something else force it to go?

Cams can be removed no problem, instructions at pelicanparts.com

No need to replace the head bolts with ARP just pick up a new set of the stockers.

It probably overheated bottom line. Like mentioned before the threads on the block are screwed too and need the time serts. All but 2 of mine were stripped, the time sert installation is pretty easy. I also have my kit I no longer need if you want to save a few bucks.

The valve seats in my head had to be recut as the valves weren't sealing. Head had to be resurfaced as well. If you can source an engine for ~2k swap it in and be done with it.

I'm a self taught diy'er and did the job on an m20 and s52 before the m54 and have to say this car was a bit more difficult but still doable.

[Tom D]

Bus,

if you got the time look through this. it has lots of pretty pictures.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1220347

remember, from now on the engine which was shared across BMW's lineup is known as a M54B30.

[nathancarter]

wait, loosen and retorque the head bolts? they aren't stretch-to-torque like all the other BMW head bolts??

Interesting thought.

The test isn't intended to re-torque them as a permanent fix - it's just to see if the threads are still intact. If you crank it down to 30 ft-lbs and then the the bolt just starts spinning in place, you know your threads are damaged.

[WHITEXi]

So it definatly is looseing coolant? You know if a ccv fails it will look like a headgasket issue. Just because BMW diagnosed it dosent mean they are correct.

You said no overheat and no water in oil but is it burning coolant for sure.

[TC535i]

Interesting thought.

The test isn't intended to re-torque them as a permanent fix - it's just to see if the threads are still intact. If you crank it down to 30 ft-lbs and then the the bolt just starts spinning in place, you know your threads are damaged.

stretch-to-torque bolts should NEVER be loosened or they're worthless, as I understand it (because their elasticity is integral in their tension, once you release pressure they've been deformed and won't reinstall the same)

[4bus]

Wow, I never expected this kind of response. Thanks a lot guys.

Bottom line, the cars is only 5g's, I am 98% sure I will buy it tomorrow after a closer look. If I have 7-8k in an AWD winter car I am ok with it, these cars sell for 10-13k around here with more miles.


The support I am seeing from you guys in just a few short hours gives me confidence to purchase this project. In comparison I have a Mercedes AMG and barely ever get a response to any of my questions posted on 3 different sites. Like'n the bimmer nation!

Thanks!

Cams can be removed no problem, instructions at pelicanparts.com

No need to replace the head bolts with ARP just pick up a new set of the stockers.

It probably overheated bottom line. Like mentioned before the threads on the block are screwed too and need the time serts. All but 2 of mine were stripped, the time sert installation is pretty easy. I also have my kit I no longer need if you want to save a few bucks.

The valve seats in my head had to be recut as the valves weren't sealing. Head had to be resurfaced as well. If you can source an engine for ~2k swap it in and be done with it.

I'm a self taught diy'er and did the job on an m20 and s52 before the m54 and have to say this car was a bit more difficult but still doable.

I made the $40k mistake of buying used "racing" engines for my boat once, honestly I would rather rebuild what I have.

here is a DIY. most of it is common stuff, but he does talk vaguely about the vanos.

http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php

being a Tech, i would think this is with-in your skill level.

the only time i have heard of bad gasket was from overheating. but that's not to say it's the only reason.




the problem is that the block is aluminum and the treads strip out. time-serts seem to be the way to go, although not BMW's official direction

here is a better DIY for a single vanos head. not the same, but still relevant.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech...aft-Timing.htm

I emailed the guy that made that write up, he called me about 5 mins after the email and talked for an hour. He is renting me his tools and his tech support....GREAT FIND!

[WHITEXi]

Did you read my post?

[4bus]

I also have my kit I no longer need if you want to save a few bucks.

.

I do want your kit, details? PM me, do you take pay pal?

Did you read my post?

Hey white, I did but I don't have an answer yet because I have not purchased the car....yet. I am going to go forward but I am going to try to talk him down to 4g's.

When I get it home I will continue this thread and let you guys help me do the diag. I will also post the dealer quote.....stand by

[WHITEXi]

Well be sitting down for the dealer quote lol.

[amdspitfire]

I do want your kit, details? PM me, do you take pay pal?

Doesn't look like I can pm you.

This is the kit I got

It was recommended to use the 30mm kit to get some more surface area contact, this one sits flush with the head. I got the kit plus the high temp loctite for the engine for 160 shipped. I bought extra inserts so the 5 that are originally included with the kit are all there. Everything is like new, how is 140 shipped to you?

[Tom D]

140 shipped to you?

hey 4 bus,

you have had quite a day!!!

welcome to the madness!!!

[Shnyaga]

Guys, these head gaskets can and will blow from mis-fires. Seems everyone is leaving that part out. Then you wont have to worry about warped blocks and threads pulling out.

I've done this repair. Took me about 3 months.. But thats only cause I was limited on tools, transportation, experience, and was forced to do it in an outside parking lot. If I could re-do it now, I might be able to get it done in less then a month. Maybe less.

Timing the motor for a first timer like myself was actually pretty fun. I got it on my first try. I used the BMW TIS that I got from ebay for about 10 bucks for the timing instructions. Of course I was lucky enough to get my hands on the special tools for free from a friend. Most people are not so lucky and I've seen a few guys giving them up for rent asking for an upfront $400 bucks deposit with $45 bucks a week subtracted from that deposit when you return them. The special tools are worth about that much. But you know, now that I think about it, all you would need are the camshaft locking blocks to keep the cams in place while you re-assemble everything and to make sure your timing is correct when done.

I was also very lucky that the threads stayed in the block when I went to torque the head down, and the machine shop said all the valves and seals were fine. Milled the head down to about .007 cause it was slightly warped. Also cleaned it up. All that for ($160).

With machine shop, tools, and parts, I think I could estimate the final price to about $600. I have a thread up with pics you could check out through my username. Also if you have any questions, feel free to pm me. If they wont give you this car for a steal, I would not get it. Not worth it IMO.

Last thing, that DIY link http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php is a bit incomplete on a few things. I would use it as a general start-up guide, but once you get to removing the cylinder head, he misses 2 bolts by the timing cover. Had me going crazy! I would have the TIS as your back-up. You also dont need to remove the camshafts. Let the machine shop play around with that stuff.

[4bus]

Guys, these head gaskets can and will blow from mis-fires. Seems everyone is leaving that part out. Then you wont have to worry about warped blocks and threads pulling out.

I've done this repair. Took me about 3 months.. But thats only cause I was limited on tools, transportation, experience, and was forced to do it in an outside parking lot. If I could re-do it now, I might be able to get it done in less then a month. Maybe less.

Timing the motor for a first timer like myself was actually pretty fun. I got it on my first try. I used the BMW TIS that I got from ebay for about 10 bucks for the timing instructions. Of course I was lucky enough to get my hands on the special tools for free from a friend. Most people are not so lucky and I've seen a few guys giving them up for rent asking for an upfront $400 bucks deposit with $45 bucks a week subtracted from that deposit when you return them. The special tools are worth about that much. But you know, now that I think about it, all you would need are the camshaft locking blocks to keep the cams in place while you re-assemble everything and to make sure your timing is correct when done.

I was also very lucky that the threads stayed in the block when I went to torque the head down, and the machine shop said all the valves and seals were fine. Milled the head down to about .007 cause it was slightly warped. Also cleaned it up. All that for ($160).

With machine shop, tools, and parts, I think I could estimate the final price to about $600. I have a thread up with pics you could check out through my username. Also if you have any questions, feel free to pm me. If they wont give you this car for a steal, I would not get it. Not worth it IMO.

Last thing, that DIY link http://ezflatscreen.com/carpages/m52headremoval.php is a bit incomplete on a few things. I would use it as a general start-up guide, but once you get to removing the cylinder head, he misses 2 bolts by the timing cover. Had me going crazy! I would have the TIS as your back-up. You also dont need to remove the camshafts. Let the machine shop play around with that stuff.

Good point, I need to put some diag time in before I tear this apart. Priority one is making sure it does infact have a blown head gasket, and if so how did it happen. Thanks for the info, I can't get over this forum!

hey 4 bus,

you have had quite a day!!!

welcome to the madness!!!

Ya I feel like I won the fix your bimmer lottery! Thanks for all the help. I will document everything I find to help the next.

[ECSTuning]

As mentioned above it is an involved process not for the faint of heart.

We have replacement Head Gasket Sets avaialble below...

Click HERE for more information.



Please let us know if you have any questions! Feel free to shoot me a PM or email.

Best,
Joe