I've decided to go ahead and take the 3.2L M3 engine out and swap it out with a 2jzge, going with a 5 speed set up later, just to get the car running tho I'm using the auto that came with the engine for now, engine came with hardness and ECU, engine will be rebuilt, even tho' this engine was pulled from a running car, I'm going to build this thing for some big boost, injectors and turbo manifold coming soon with a
GReddy eManage ultimate for the ecu. And a 1.3mm head gasket upgrade.
Will post more when it starts being rebuilt.
As soon as I get the engine in, I'll be having the new drive shaft made.
M3 Dinan engine is out!Engine is sold, it's going to a good home, it's being rebuilt and put in a nice e30.
Photos at http://s945.photobucket.com/albums/a...202jz%20build/So now there's room for my 2jz.
Went with the 2jz for the stronger bottom end over the 1jz.
Well got the engine installed in the last few hours on Monday, didn't think it was going to go in to easy, but was very easy, everything clears, even the new turbo manifold amazingly clears the fender and engine mount.
Now the hard part begins with the wiring, tranny and power steering...
Already found the 12v lead, both grounds and ign wires on the ECU, just have to find the tach lead.
Still might go with a stand alone and do awhile with the ecu all together.
Any help with wiring would be a great help, I wanna learn to do it rather then have someone else do it.
I'm still doing research on the wiring with not turning up anything really good.
More to come this Weekend.
Did some research here and other site, Having a lil bit of confusion at under standing what wires from my lexus ECU pinouts need to go to my X20 connector.
ECU
Any help would be great on this.
I've been looking for 7 hours today on everysite I can find...
Last edited by johnson507; 09-07-2010 at 07:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I've got a buddy with a 73k mile GE that is getting rid of ALL of his NA-T turbo stuff.... That was a very potent motor in his SC300. I pulled it out to make room for a 1jz-GTE.
If you're interested. he also has the 1j bellhousing to mate it to the R154.
This has the makings of an awesome swap!
here's a link to his car: http://lsxe36m3.com/?p=262
Baller prototype intake: http://d9spam.com/2010/08/25/parts-for-sale/
Last edited by Pzary3233; 09-07-2010 at 09:54 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yeah I might be interested in it, pm pricing.
I can't PM you since you don't have enough posts yet, so I sent an email through BF.c
Just curious, is it that much less work/effort and money to swap in 3.0L Yota and boost that vs boosting the 3.2L S52 that was already in the car?
Without any lean to the engine, looks like lots of room on either side.![]()
Reason for doing a 2jz over a turbo'ed s52 is for long term, supras are boosted all the time, while many many m3's only last a year boosted, even done by pros... this is from my friends and other ppl with boosted m3's.
They make power yes, just don't last.
Also 2jz's are so easy to rebuild it's crazy.
This coming from a 7 car bmw owner.
P1-
There is a lot of room with the 2jz. There is even a place that sells kits to swap them into the e36 easily. They even use the easy to find version of the R154.
Boosting an S50/S52 requires a good bit of work to make it reliable. Even then the S50/S52 is a temperamental motor under large boost.
A friend of mine had a well sorted out S50 with a 16g that was a great car around town but the top end suffered due to the smaller turbo. it was a great mild boosted car. May that car RIP... hit by an old man who couldn't see an Avus blue M3 in the middle of the day.
He then built a completely build up forged S50 that could take big boost, the price tag was INSANE. Then a Gt40 was added, and 600+ HP was put down to the wheels. It was fun while it lasted but after a month it was torn down and it sits headless because it has many head gasket and head issues.
I've been around my fair share of S50/S52 motors to know they don't really like boost, especially in stock form. When you can throw 1k at a 2jz and make very impressive numbers it's HARD to look anywhere else.
Before the LSx route I had a deposit on a 1jz and R154 to be imported. The whole swap was 1200 plus shipping. Which would have been MUCH less then the LSx swap. no need for custom exhaust (stock stuff works), hood clearance is good, custom mounts would be SUPER easy if you didn't want to shell out 300 for the ebay kit.
The 2jz with a stock motor can push numbers that an S50 could only dream of with a stock motor. Do some very light tuning and you;re pushing 400hp, bigger turbo and injectors, you're looking around 600hp some say. You can't do that with simple bolt on parts with an S50.
The 2JZ is built for boost (The 2JZ-GTE) and the the 2jz-GE (which this guy has) is also a good foundation for boost.
Interesting note though, Yamaha designed the 2jz/1jz and there are MANY interesting similarities between the yota motors and the M50 engine family.
Exactly, see above.
The parts are not so cheap anymore... Since the CFC deal you can no longer go to your toyota dealer and get 1jz-gte or jdm 2jz-gte parts. This is where my yota hook up could get nice JDM parts from.
Alas, I will have a 1jz or 2jz powered e36 at some point in my lifetime.
If no one buys my friend's 2jz NA-t I will probably stuff it into something
------------------------- STUPID AUTO MERGE ------------------------
All of those wires are going to the ECU... Correct? That means that you need to find the wires that go from the motor to the body harness.....
I am assuming that Connector "B" is from the engine....
It looks as though Connector "A" is where you need to start looking to splice things into the BMW harness. Please correct me if I am wrong.
Take a look at my wiring spreadsheets for the e36 chassis that will give you a start to what you need to splice on the BMW harness. Also, I would plan on leaving the Diagnostic plug intact! http://lsxe36m3.com/?page_id=86
It seems pretty straight forward.
Last edited by Pzary3233; 09-08-2010 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
coming from a yota background (had a 7mgte cressida), you are going to run in to issues with turbo clearance and the dizzy. you can swap in a 4runner dizzy which is pretty much the same but slimmer to allow clearance. the 2jzge as is has higher compression cuz its a n/a motor so you have to change the headgasket to low the compression to be able to run more boost, unless you are fine with making more power on boost but not being able to run more than 10psi.
The stock distributor worked great on the GE that I just pulled... interesting.
And Yes, the GE has higher compression.
Looking good. Don't boost too high with that ge. 2jzge's have the weakest bottem ends of the jz series. It's the rods thats are break point. ther're just not beefy like the turbo rods. Also theres a thery that 1jzgte is stronger then the 2jzgte due the to shorter stroke the rod has to handle so you can't say the 2jz has a stronger bottem end. I'm not just saying this because I run the 1jz. I switch to the 2j now for other reasons.
What size turbo you got? whats your fuel system?
since you are going to rebuilt it, switch the rods and pistons to turbo specs.
Last edited by armyboot; 09-08-2010 at 05:56 PM. Reason: saw you were going to rebuild it
built 1.5jz, big fuel+76mm-billet. 9 second dream https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtVqp3O1RDQ
well the dizzy issue depends on turbo size and clock. the 2jzge and the 2jzgte have the same bottom end. the only thing that may be different is the pistons but everything is the same.
And the GTE has oil squirters![]()
Already have the pistons and rods, and believe me they are built for high boost apps. and yes I know all about the head gasket, that's why I have a mm one to replace stock one, I know and have done all my research on everything, wiring is my only down fall. And yes my turbo clears the dizzy lol
Skyline rear will be here next week, and yes I said skyline, I know a guy with it done, it's super easy.
Did you ever get my email?
Lets see some documentation on the skyline rear?
You will see doc when it's installed, or better yet a video. And yes I got the email, going to look in to that set up a lil bit more.
Ahhhh, Japanese stuff that I am familiar with, Datsun/Nissan.
Skyline diff is the Nissan Short nose R-200. That same diff with V-LSD and different ratios can also in the Nissan 300zx and Infiniti Q45. Open verions, (minus the V-LSD) can be found in the 240-SX and Infiniti J30.
There are desirable version and not so desirable. The '90-'96 Infinti Q45 is the most sought after for its strength and the 3.54 ratio, ('97 + Q ship R200 is not as desirable). Internals are the same as the others but the output shafts are MUCH beefier for the '90-'96 Q. Some, not all Skylines have the beefier output shafts as well. Easy to tell the the good for the not so good. Output shafts will have either 5 bolt or 6 bolt pattern. 5 bolt bad, 6 bolt good! The 240-SX, J30 and naturally aspirated '90-'96, (through '99 in Japan) 300-ZX output shafts are the 5 bolt variety and much smaller diameter and are known to snap under hard launches with only 400 HP. The R-200s with the beefier output shafts are running 10 seconds in 3000 lbs cars.
For the ultimate in strength within the Nissan IRS diff line, the R230. Standard in the Twin Turbo 300ZX and Nissan Armada.
Here is an incomplete list of available ratios and output shaft bolt count, (bolt count and ratios are not complete as some Skyline R-200 have the 6 bolt output shafts);
R200V Short nose, 5 Bolt ouput shafts (240SX)
Ratios 3.90, 4.08
LSD Viscous
R200V Short nose, Q45 1989-1996 , 6 Bolt ouput shafts
Ratios 3.545
LSD Viscous
R200V Short nose rear of a R32 GTR skyline, 5 bolt output
Ratio 4.36
LSD clutch type
R200V Short nose, 300ZX NA, 5 Bolt ouput shafts
Ratios 4.09
LSD Viscous
R200V Short nose 350Z, 6 Bolt ouput shafts, Single bolt on rear cover
Ratios 3.36, 3.545
Open Base, LSD Viscous on other models
R230 Short nose, 300ZX TT, 6 Bolt ouput shafts
Ratios 3.69
LSD Viscous
R230 Short nose, Armada, Large 6 Bolt ouput shafts (bigger than 300ZXTT)
Ratios 2.946, 3.13
No LSD
I have 2 Q diffs with halfshafts for sale currently. One is a '90, other is a '96.
Last edited by BRAAP; 09-08-2010 at 11:00 PM.
Braap get's what I'm saying, and knows the facts.
How about documentation on the install into a BMW? Spline count? Custom Shafts? Etc...?
Oh yeah, Braap is the man!
you'll need the custom mounts that allow the diff to be mounted into the bmw's chassis. Custom spacers that allows the bmw axles to bolt to the nissan diff. Then a custom driveshaft.
I attempted this feat and gave up. The only way I found that it was worth to do this diff swap was the cost of the diff as a replacement for the broken diff should it break many times over.
built 1.5jz, big fuel+76mm-billet. 9 second dream https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RtVqp3O1RDQ
I really doubt that you'll have too many problems with the stock diff until you're in the 600 + area. then you can do like Scooter and have a built 8.8 installed.
Yes, also things to think about... But like I said I know someone that has done it and has mounts to make mocks with. Amyboot, hows the car running?
Thanks for your awesome build post, learned alot.
Any updates on this swap? I might be getting my hands on a 2jzge with ecu and wires tomorrow. I do plan on changing the rods, pistons, headgasket and intake manifold shortly after picking up the motor. Any help would be great.
Last edited by peelsbimmer; 07-17-2011 at 03:42 PM.
I was going to go the GTE route in my e36 but I might jus do the ge but was going to get the eBay mount kit an also mate the m3 tranny to 2jzge
I did a built ge in my e36. I am putting a 420g getrag behind it. I am using a custom set of mounts, but will have sets for sale shortly.
1995 M3 - Forged 9.8:1 2JZ, S366, MS3x, E85, LQ9s, 420g/PMC Motorsport kit, 4 clutch 3.15 LSD Large Case 757whp/710wtq
2011 X5 Xdrive35d- Blk on Cinnamon, Towing Pkg, Heat Pkg., etc..the tow rig/DD!
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