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Thread: Terrible Z3 News Some Advice

  1. #1
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    Terrible Z3 News Some Advice

    I'm a new owner of a 198 Z3 - it's been approximately 2-3 weeks.

    I had it inspected first. Checked out. I asked, how's the radiator, water pump, etc.

    Radiator was new. Water pump didn't leak etc.

    But today, as I was driving - (she was having this problem for two weeks), it'd have some tranny problems. Gear shifts in the morning weren't great. And it would shift gears hard some times. The tranny light came on. Then two hours later it turned off for a check engine light to come on.

    The code said: 4th Gear Gear/ratio problem.

    I thought - oh better take it in. Be a responsible owner.

    I drove 8 miles. 1 mile away from the mechanic. And, the car isn't accelerating. I panic. I've had this happen before. Is it the tranny? Or has the engine frozen?

    I pull over. White smoke starts coming out. Oh no, overheating. =(

    I had it towed to the local mechanic, $40 for diagnosis. $50 for tow.

    I look at the ground. There's a few drops of oil leaking. Oh no. =(

    Has anyone had this overheating problem?

    I don't think the engine is frozen. But the car won't start. =(

    What are people's advice?

    The worst part is, parents told me: Dont' get the car. Maintenance is going to kill you. I guess they were right. =(

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluehazard View Post
    I had it towed to the local mechanic, $40 for diagnosis. $50 for tow.

    I look at the ground. There's a few drops of oil leaking. Oh no. =(

    I don't think the engine is frozen. But the car won't start. =(

    What are people's advice?
    ...Well...you towed it to the mechanic. You paid the $40.

    What'd he say?

    I think you a few words.


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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinWhiteDuke View Post
    ...Well...you towed it to the mechanic. You paid the $40.

    What'd he say?

    I think you a few words.
    He said what all BMW and Mercedes mechanics say. Leave it with me for at least day...

    I feel so stressed from all of it...

  4. #4
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    As for the transmission:

    Your transmission fluid was/is low. BMW keeps the shift revs high to reduce emissions after a cold start. Goes back to normal shifting after about 3 minutes of driving.

    The tranny light is extinguished after a restart. If the code is severe enough, it triggers a permanent CEL (check engine light).

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monolith View Post
    As for the transmission:

    Your transmission fluid was/is low. BMW keeps the shift revs high to reduce emissions after a cold start. Goes back to normal shifting after about 3 minutes of driving.

    The tranny light is extinguished after a restart. If the code is severe enough, it triggers a permanent CEL (check engine light).
    That's what happened to me. I got the CEL after the tranny ligh extinguished. This is why I brought it in to the mechanic - but driving there it overheated.

    Also, the air conditioner wasn't running as cold as usual - and I thought that odd... (I'm so stupid; I should've checked the heat gauge.)

    I thought BMW had lifetime tranny fluid though?

  6. #6
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    It is most likely transmission. Though, you might have overheated the engine, which resulted in warped head, hopefully not.
    Dripping oil is most likely from transmission, that is why it was low to begin with - it was leaking.
    Last edited by TexaZ3; 08-02-2010 at 08:42 PM.
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    It's generally agreed that the "lifetime" fluid is no such thing, and should in fact be changed along with the tranny filter.

    It's also generally agreed and a good idea that you check and change most or all fluids when buying a used car, unless you have good reason to believe that they have been changed recently.

    I understand the stress, and I'm sorry man, that's a bummer.

    IF you get good news, the first thing I'd do is change those fluids. Flush the radiator / block and fill with BMW blue coolant. I'd check the thermostat as well. I'd obviously also change the transmission fluid and filter, and the differential fluid.

    Are you comfortable with DIY? These cars aren't insanely expensive to keep up if A) The car is in serviceable condition and not too far gone, and B) You can do most of the work.

    Not hard, and great info and resources here and other places.

    Don't worry too much until you hear you have something to worry about.

    EDITED to add: and DON'T let the mechanic rip you off. If he's not a BMW mechanic he probably doesn't know much about the cars and seeing the roundel will = $ to him.
    Last edited by ThinWhiteDuke; 08-02-2010 at 08:50 PM.


    1992 525i/5 e34 - sold
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    I was told 3 months ago when I bought the car my shift seal was leaking, no drips to be seen. A month after that I started to see a light brown drip a day under the car. Is there an easy was to see how much tranny fluid I have left?

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluehazard View Post
    Also, the air conditioner wasn't running as cold as usual - and I thought that odd...
    I'm guessing the waterpump failed, a belt broke or a pulley broke/froze. Probably stopped turning the A/C compressor when it happened or as it was happening.

    Refill on the tranny must be done at a certain temperature range (30 deg C to 50 deg C), so you'll want a mechanic that's familiar with that to do the refill/check.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinWhiteDuke View Post
    It's generally agreed that the "lifetime" fluid is no such thing, and should in fact be changed along with the tranny filter.

    It's also generally agreed and a good idea that you check and change most or all fluids when buying a used car, unless you have good reason to believe that they have been changed recently.

    I understand the stress, and I'm sorry man, that's a bummer.

    IF you get good news, the first thing I'd do is change those fluids. Flush the radiator / block and fill with BMW blue coolant. I'd check the thermostat as well. I'd obviously also change the transmission fluid and filter, and the differential fluid.

    Are you comfortable with DIY? These cars aren't insanely expensive to keep up if A) The car is in serviceable condition and not too far gone, and B) You can do most of the work.

    Not hard, and great info and resources here and other places.

    Don't worry too much until you hear you have something to worry about.

    EDITED to add: and DON'T let the mechanic rip you off. If he's not a BMW mechanic he probably doesn't know much about the cars and seeing the roundel will = $ to him.
    I can get comfortable with DIY.

    What do I need to start with that?

    I didn't change the oil - cos it was new.

    I was going to change the tranny fluid today. But you know what happened.

    I had it inspected, and the auto-specialist on german cars gave me the thumbs up on it being immaculate. Actually two mechanics did - both german car specialists. =(

    So, I have no idea what happened.

    Does BMW shut down it's starting system and engine when it overheats? I hope so... I don't think I froze the engine. I could hear it trying to start. But other than that, I have no idea what happened to the car.

    Blue
    ='(

    The reason, I'm so sad is my parents having the I-told-you-so-BMW-crappy-car attitude. I haven't even told my mom - who was already stressed when I had to change the tranny fluid today.

    I'm 28 btw - just for you to know the parent thing. But I go to law school - so, parents are still involved financially in my life.

    I remember when I bought this car friends said, "DO I get this when I go to law school too?" I was so happy then, but what about now. grrr =(

    Quote Originally Posted by Monolith View Post
    I'm guessing the waterpump failed, a belt broke or a pulley broke/froze. Probably stopped turning the A/C compressor when it happened or as it was happening.

    Refill on the tranny must be done at a certain temperature range (30 deg C to 50 deg C), so you'll want a mechanic that's familiar with that to do the refill/check.
    I think a belt may have broke. (Perhaps, I should've towed it to the BMW specialist instead of the local mechanic. It doesn't matter, I have insurance on towing.)

    A friend was flooring it today. Driving it like a speedster to show me how fast the thing went. That's when I noticed the first smell. (That white smoke overheating smell). I asked, "What's that?" He said, "Oh, just from driving hard."

    The second clue was the air conditioner not working "as well." I'm so f****N stupid to not check the heat. I just thought - oh that's odd. Well, almost to the mechanic. In my defense, I was aware but as being so not intune with cars didn't know what this meant.

    So, probably one of the belts broke. I just pray engine isn't frozen. I pray I didn't blow a head. =(

    Anyways, I'll give you the sliverlining in the clouds. I called my mom (who's mean.) I said, "Can you give me a ride from X location?" "No," she said, "I'm watching tv." (Sigh).

    I see a bus heading to downtown LA. I ran after it. The bus shuts the door on me! GRRR

    Then a VW Van from the 1960's says, "Come on in guy. We'll catch up to the bus."

    I said, "Where are you heading off to?"

    He said, "To Baldwin Park."

    I said, "REALLY?! Can I go with you? That's my home too."

    And he said, "Sure." Kindness of strangers.

    Coincidentally, he graduated the same university I did 20 years ago. =P
    Last edited by bluehazard; 08-02-2010 at 09:32 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  11. #11
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    Unfortunately, the 1.9L is notorious for warping heads when overheated. Keep your fingers crossed that this is not going to be an issue.

    The cooling system should be completely replaced at least every 100k miles (including radiator, waterpump, hoses, etc.). There are also two plastic cooling pipes (one on the driver's side and one behind the engine near the firewall) that should be replaced as well.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monolith View Post
    Unfortunately, the 1.9L is notorious for warping heads when overheated. Keep your fingers crossed that this is not going to be an issue.

    The cooling system should be completely replaced at least every 100k miles (including radiator, waterpump, hoses, etc.). There are also two plastic cooling pipes (one on the driver's side and one behind the engine near the firewall) that should be replaced as well.
    So how much is the damage for the damage done for warped heads?

    All the hoses were done. The radiator was new. The water pump, the mechanic said was still good.

  13. #13
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    Remanufactured head can run about $700 plus labor to install, etc.

    I wouldn't jump ahead until you hear back from the mechanic.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monolith View Post
    Remanufactured head can run about $700 plus labor to install, etc.

    I wouldn't jump ahead until you hear back from the mechanic.

    Is it possible that I didn't freeze the engine even though it won't start?

    It seems to turn but didn't actually start.
    Last edited by bluehazard; 08-02-2010 at 10:50 PM.

  15. #15
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    If your belts are broken and you've been driving it for a while like that there is a chance that you just drained your battery and since generator is not working, you can't start the car. Don't panic man, talk to your mechanic in the morning, I'm sure its not as bad as you imagine. These are tough cars.
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    Yeah, could be any number of things. The good part of it is you can replace a whole 1.9 drive train for like $1000

    I'm sure she'll be fine.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by TexaZ3 View Post
    If your belts are broken and you've been driving it for a while like that there is a chance that you just drained your battery and since generator is not working, you can't start the car. Don't panic man, talk to your mechanic in the morning, I'm sure its not as bad as you imagine. These are tough cars.

    Hey dude,

    Thanks for calming me down. You can see why I'm stressed with parents saying, you're stupid, stupid, blah blah blah

    Friends saying, "You bought the gayest car." (while being jealous.)

    I think you're right about the battery though. 'Cos, 1) the battery light came on when the car stopped.

    2) it sounds like the battery doesn't have juice, but I couldn't figure out why. But if you have causation linked to the belts - that's probably why.

    Cheers. I'll call in the morning. They closed already.

    the verdict has come out.

    The engine needs a replacement. There was water in the engine. =(

    THe price is $2,000 with a new 1.9 engine, which has 60-70,000 miles. He'll replace the waterpump also.

    The problem was some inlet hose that was plastic. Does anyone know this part? Is it better to buy a replacement now OEM or aftermaket? The mechanic said the plastic part wasn't very good.

    I need some real advice.

    I have a few options.

    1) Replace the engine and pay the price.

    Does anyone know if I could get it cheaper?

    2) The guy who inspected this car gave it an A+. He owns a BMW/Porsche mechanic garage. Should I go back to him and ask him to do this for $1,000 since I recently purchased a car and the inspection went fantastic.

    If not, could I sue him in small claims?

    Help anyone? =(

    Dad was pissed by the way. He said junk the car. ='(

    the verdict has come out.

    The engine needs a replacement. There was water in the engine. =(

    THe price is $2,000 with a new 1.9 engine, which has 60-70,000 miles. He'll replace the waterpump also.

    The problem was some inlet hose that was plastic. Does anyone know this part? Is it better to buy a replacement now OEM or aftermaket? The mechanic said the plastic part wasn't very good.

    I need some real advice.

    I have a few options.

    1) Replace the engine and pay the price.

    Does anyone know if I could get it cheaper?

    2) The guy who inspected this car gave it an A+. He owns a BMW/Porsche mechanic garage. Should I go back to him and ask him to do this for $1,000 since I recently purchased a car and the inspection went fantastic.

    If not, could I sue him in small claims?

    Help anyone? =(

    Dad was pissed by the way. He said junk the car. ='(
    Last edited by bluehazard; 08-03-2010 at 09:40 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  18. #18
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    Balls.

    http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/1802889095.html

    Don't know what the shipping would be from Tulsa, but he doesn't say that the M44 has any problems.

    http://tulsa.craigslist.org/pts/1856174969.html

    Also an s52 for $2600


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  19. #19
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    Baldwin Park? Consider talking to John at EMW in Arcadia, near Live Oak and Santa Anita.
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  20. #20
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    Thinwhiteduke and Phrider, thanks for your help. Thinwhiteduke, I'll call the guy tomorrow and have it shipped. It has to be much cheaper than what the mechanic is calling me.

    I'll ask the inspection place to do the installation for a low rate. I think he'll be reasonable.

    You guys are awesome.

    Awesome community! =)

    You guys are lifesavers!

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluehazard View Post
    9
    The problem was some inlet hose that was plastic. Does anyone know this part? Is it better to buy a replacement now OEM or aftermaket? The mechanic said the plastic part wasn't very good.
    See Post #11. The problem here is that the inspecting mechanic needs to know the 1.9L engine, not just BMW. As I mentioned before, the two plastic pipes should always be replaced. Because of the their location, I can't really fault the inspecting mechanic (one is underneath the intake manifold and the other is behind the engine block). You should replace the entire cooling system in the 1.9L every 60k to 100k miles to avoid your situation.

    There are no aftermarket or "upgrade" parts available, only BMW OE. The supposed point of the plastic pipes, including the plastic thermostat housing, was to allow quick removal of the engine (the parts would breakaway when the engine was hoisted, saving time over having to disconnect the pipes) when scrapped.

    Even with your new replacement engine, the cooling system should be replaced.



    The head cooling pipe is Part #9 and is on the back side of the engine between the engine and the firewall:












    The side cooling pipe is Part #1 shown here. It connects to the side of the block just above Part #17:






    Last edited by Monolith; 08-04-2010 at 08:38 AM.

  22. #22
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    Monolith - Great info. I've read about these 2 before. You have a link to a good DIY? Should the pipes be changed when the coolant has been drained? How bad is the one under the intake to do? Do you have to remove the intake?

    I'm going to do my VCG soon. Would it be a good time to replace the back pipe because of slightly easier access?

    Thanks man!


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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThinWhiteDuke View Post
    Monolith - Great info. I've read about these 2 before. You have a link to a good DIY? Should the pipes be changed when the coolant has been drained? How bad is the one under the intake to do? Do you have to remove the intake?
    The most complete DIY is on 318ti.org:
    Cooling System DIY

    It should answer most of your questions.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Monolith View Post
    Unfortunately, the 1.9L is notorious for warping heads when overheated. Keep your fingers crossed that this is not going to be an issue.

    The cooling system should be completely replaced at least every 100k miles (including radiator, waterpump, hoses, etc.). There are also two plastic cooling pipes (one on the driver's side and one behind the engine near the firewall) that should be replaced as well.

    Well, you hit it dead on.

    I checked the water pump and radiator at inspection. Radiator was newly replaced. Water pump wasn't leaking. I told them to replace it.

    I guess I'm going to have replace all those parts when I ge tit back.

    Quick question: I was driving it hard that morning (for the first time) just to see how fast the car could go (for less than a 1/4 of a mile.) Do you think that would have helped hasten that pipe going on me?

  25. #25
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    If you paid for a PPI and it's only two weeks old you should be able to go back to the PPI company and tell them to fix it or buy it off you.

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