OK, so this is my first DIY I've ever created, so please bear with me. I've tried to be as thorough as possible. Sorry about the quality of the pics, the battery in my Nikon D3000 is dead, and I can't find my charger, so I just took them using my Droid. Anyway, here goes.
LEGAL STUFF:
I am not responsible for you messing up your gauge cluster, frying your electrical system, cutting your finger, or any other random thing that happens while you're performing this repair. If you decide to do this, you do it at your own risk.
Having said that, I finally got fed up with the dark spot on my gauge cluster that shows up around the 3 on the tach that has been there for almost a year. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about:
So I decided to do something about it. From doing a little research, it turns out the reason this happens is the glue behind the gauge faces comes loose over time and heat, causing the numbers to not stick to the facing so they don't light up properly. Since nobody on here seems to have a write-up dealing with this problem, I decided to help the community and make one myself.
Tools used:
13mm socket or wrench (for removing battery)
Phillips head (for removing cluster)
T8 torx screwdriver or bit
T10 torx screwdriver or bit
Masking tape
Sharpie marker
Feeler gauges
Body panel remover tool
Needle-nose pliers
Butter knife or razor blade
Mild dishwashing soap
Sponge or equivalent
Soft cloth
3M Hi-Strength 90 Spray adhesive (I purchased my can from the local Home Depot, it ran me about $13)
Step 1: Disconnect negative terminal from the battery.
Step 2: Remove gauge cluster (I believe there is a write-up on doing this somewhere on here)
Step 3: Remove the 5 T10 torx screws from the back of the cluster
Step 4: Separate the back of the cluster from the front by gently pulling the back away from the front
Step 5: Turn the cluster over and turn the 3 knobs that hold the gauge faces in place 180 degrees until they are not over the clear plastic of the gauges anymore
Step 6: Remove the gauge faces by pulling them straight up
Step 7: The MPG gauge was not dim on my cluster, so to avoid accidentally damaging it I chose to remove it from the rest of the cluster by unclipping it from the 2 plastic tabs that hold it from the back and pulling it straight back.
Step 8: I used a feeler gauge to measure the distance from the cluster facing to the bottom of the needle and found it to be .051". I used this measurement when reinstalling the needles to ensure they were the proper distance from the cluster. Probably not necessary, however my OCD tendencies encouraged me to do this.
Step 9: Using whatever instrument you see fit, pull the stop pins for the speedo and tach off. I used needle nose pliers, and gently pulled straight up. They came out pretty easily. I learned the hard way that it is important to remove these BEFORE you remove the speedo and tach needles, otherwise you will have to keep taking out the cluster and realigning the needles until they read correctly.
Step 10: Use masking tape and a sharpie to mark the locations where the fuel, tach, speedo, and coolant temp needles come to a resting place. (Again, notice I only marked the coolant and fuel, I should have pulled the pins and marked the tach and speedo) This is where you will reinstall them. I also used masking tape to protect the gauge face from being scratched where I used the tool to lift the needles up.
Step 11:Lift gently on the needles to remove them. I used a body panel remover tool to do this.
Step 12:Using a T8 screwdriver/socket, remove the 8 gold screws from the front of the cluster and remove the sending units behind the cluster face. Carefully lay them out in the order you took them out in.
Step 13:Carefully pry off the gauge faces from the clear plastic. I used a butter knife to help do this.
Step 14:Clean the adhesive off the gauges using warm water and a mild dish detergent. It should come right off with a little light scrubbing.
Step 15:Spray both the back of the gauges and the plastic backing with a layer of the 3M Hi-Strength 90 adhesive. Wait about 30 seconds for it to tack, then reassemble. Use a soft cloth and go over the gauges, starting from one side and working your way to the other, making sure it gets a good bond. Sorry, but I didn't take pictures of myself doing this. I didn't want to risk messing it up trying to take pictures while doing it and end up with bad results.
Step 16:Allow an hour or so for the gauges to dry before reinstalling.
Step 17:Reassemble gauges in the opposite order you took them out.
Taa-daa!!!!! No more dark spot!!!!!!!!
Great writeup! Been meaning to fix my gauge cluster for a while now.
nicely done. excellent writeup.
Nice writeup man. Another member on here deleted theirs so this helps tremendously. I've been planning to do this but didn't want to mess up the needles. Taking off the stop pin before removing the needles was something I did not know. Thanks!
Also, did you replace the bulbs? New bulbs could have spruced it up a bit further. Also, where did you get the ///M emblem on your gauge cluster? Did you put it in place of the ASC light so it lights up? Thanks.
Very nice write-up!! I will be doing this very soon...
Cosmos Schwarz ///M3/4/5...
"MONEY CAN'T BUY TASTE"
wow thanks going to attempt it now. you said to take the resting pins off the spedo and tach first and then mark were the needle sits then remove the needles?
Thanks for this write up, I have the same issue on my gauge cluster, I thought it was a burnt out bulb, I guess not. I plan to do this soon.
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