Replacing BMWs E39 Key w/ E90 Key WIP

[Xeniczone]

**UPDATE**
My first attempt at doing this project was a failure in my eyes. If you would like to jump to my restart click here, else you can keep on reading and read about my first attempt.

First Attempt
Here I would like to discuss two methods of doing this. The first being my method which will completely remove E39s Key system. The second will simply replace BMWs key with the E90s key. I will not be doing the second, but I will give an idea of how to do it.

Replacing BMWs complete system. This is what you will need.


Yellow Box: Remote Key System (Spal AS-80)
Blue Box: RFID Transponder System
Green Box: BMW E90 Key
Red Box: BMW E39 Key

The reason I chose the Spal AS-80 was because it has logic similar to that of the BMW. Like if you hold the Aux (Trunk) and Lock button at the same time it will send the lock signal for 30 seconds, aka, it will close the windows. That and I got it of eBay for 21 dollars.

The RFID Transponder is off eBay. Originally, I was going to build my own system, but I found this one for 10 bucks, after some extensive testing I decided it was good enough for my use.

The E39 doesn't have to have a working remote, but you will need at least 1 key that can start the engine, and you will need at least 1 key blade.

You will also need some logic chip and some soldering skill to do the Push Button start. That way it will be a push start button, not a hold start button.


First thing I'm going to do is get the Spal remote key to work. Then I will install the new RFID system, and finally do some logic to start the engine.

Started May 18, 2010:

My first attempt to install the key involved removing the entire dash, to access the main module (A1). Unfortunately, all the wires that go into the A1 box are either serial encoded or output relays.

So today I will try to install the Spal Remote system into the door where the wires are that go into the switches on the door physical key.

[cpatstone]

what are you using for a diagnostics tool? IE, GT1? carsoft???

[BimmerGoon]

thats pretty sweet dude. good luck!!!

[Germapino]

I didnt know that if you hold the Trunk and Lock button at the same time it would close the windows . I know about holding the open button would open all ... was always wondering if there was a way to close them all ... thanks!!!!

[Xeniczone]

what are you using for a diagnostics tool? IE, GT1? carsoft???

I'm not using any diagnostic tools. I'm just using the WDS (wiring diagram systems) that I found online. I would find all the diagrams I need then save them as PDF files.

thats pretty sweet dude. good luck!!!

Thanks. So far, so good.

I didnt know that if you hold the Trunk and Lock button at the same time it would close the windows . I know about holding the open button would open all ... was always wondering if there was a way to close them all ... thanks!!!!

O no no no, you misunderstand. The Spal system uses the trunk && lock key to close the windows. The BMW key I think you hold the lock button. I was saying they were similar because it could close the windows. Unfortunately the Spal system can't open the windows.

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UPDATE:

Well I'm stuck right now, because I don't have a heavy enough wire splice, and I'm not sure how to wire the trunk. So I thought I would update what I have done.

Trying to tap into the A1 module failed due to everything being either an output or a serial bus. So the next place I decided to 'attack' was the A23 module. Module A23 is located in the drivers door. It is actually the same thing as the power windows buttons. This module takes the commands from the buttons in the door and turns them into serial commands for the A1 module.

First I started by removing the door panel. This involves removing two screws. One in the door handle and one in the vent.



Then just pull firmly around the door panel. Now just push up on A23 and remove it. Take out all the wires attached to it. You will also need to remove the wires attaches to the tweeter and the memory seats. This is the connecter we're looking for. The WDS labels it as connecter X1129.


A quick look at the WDS shows that Pin9, the Black/White wire, unlocks the car; and Pin7, the Blue/Red wire, locks the car when put to a +volt signal.


Now I got a short wire to use as a jumper cable. I put one on Pin7 and one on the +12v. At first I was disappointed because nothing happened, but then I tried it again. It worked and scared the crap out of me to hear that loud 'Wooh'. Then I tried it with Pin9. Heard 'Wooh' 'Wooh' and knew I was good to go.


Now I needed to find a place to mount the Spal Module. When I was taking the door panel off, the front pocket with the coin holder became unglued. I noticed that the coin holder didn't fill in the entire part of the door panel. I also noticed 2 screws on the back of the door panel. Taking the screws out the coin holder becomes loose.


Then I took the Spal Module and slide it under the coin holder. IT FITS!!!


Now I got the Dremel out and cut a hole in the side of the door panel so I could fit the wires through. Cutting the plastic was easy with the dremel. It was trying to cut the carpet that was hard. Of course, I didn't use the dremel for this, I used a box cutter.


And once I got the wires through and managed to slide the coin holder back on top of the box without any fitment issues, I knew I was in business.


Now I just need to get the right gauge wire splice for the power, and I should be good to go for locking and unlocking my car.

I have a small dilemma with the trunk unlock though. The trunk eject is inside the car, not in the door. Trying to run another wire through the door seems next to impossible, plus I would have to take the door apart even more to do so.

My current idea is to find the Memory Seat '3' wire inside the car, and cut it. Using it as a transfer wire for the relay. As their are 6 wires that go into the memory seat module, I assume they are, 1. LED Power; 2. Ground; 3. Memory 1; 4. Memory 2; 5. Memory 3; 6. Memory Record.

Not sure if there is any other "useless" wires in the door. Any ideas???

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PyMyO_cuo6Y[/ame]

Here Spal system working. I just need to wire the trunk.

Problems replacing BMWs key with the Spal Module:
1: Spal Module doesn't compensate for driver's priority.
----When you push the unlock button, The BMW unlocks the drivers door only. If you push the button again nothing happens, where the BMW key would unlock the other doors.
2: Spal Module doesn't have the logic for opening the windows.
----The Spal module has the logic to close the windows, but will not open them. No big deal. I just like the closing.
3: Unlocking doesn't activate the interior lights.
----When you unlock the doors with the BMW key, the interior lights turn on. When unlocking with the door, where the Spal module is hooked up, it will not. The Spal Module has an interior light feature, but it will not fade on, it will just flick on. So I decided not to hook it up.

I'm going to call the BMW dealer tomorrow and see if they can fix two of these problems. I was wondering if they will make the interior lights turn on when I unlock with the door, and I was wondering if they can turn of driver's priority. I don't think they can do anything with the window open thing

[alexbenz]

that's alot of freakin work....you couldn't do this without changing out the stock remote/alarm system?

[CBRacerX]

Interesting idea, good luck!

[Xeniczone]

Sorry guys, My parents decided to move, so I haven't been able to work on this car. I'm just now getting stuff organized in our new house, but our new house doesn't have the large garage that our old house had. I will post a video updating on the progress. The only thing that has really changed is I managed to put the Spal Key from the previous video into the E90 key. So the E90 key is now able to unlock, lock, and control windows. I haven't made a tutorial of this part, because like I said before I will build the first key on my own, and use what I learn to build the second key.

I will try to get a video up within the week.

that's alot of freakin work....you couldn't do this without changing out the stock remote/alarm system?

Well my idea was to try to interface with the Stock BMW alarm. since the BMW alarm is part of the interior computer, it would literally be impossible to remove. As I have shown in the video, I managed to get the Spal module to interface with the BMW module just by cutting the right wires, but the problem I'm having is with the interior lights and the driver priority. When you unlock the car, the interior lights don't turn on, and I can't overcome drivers priority, where you unlock the car and only the drivers door unlocks. I left messages at two BMW dealers to fix the problem and that was 2 months ago. Never got a response.

[Xeniczone]

[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjomFY7J0to[/ame]

First I unlock the car, Get inside and turn the ignition on (using the old key), and roll the window down a little, get out and lock the car, finally I close the window with the key.

I took the electronics out of the spal key and fitted them into the BMW E9X key. This key will unlock, lock, and control the windows. It can't start the car or unlock the trunk, yet.

I think the next thing I will tackle is the ability to start the car. For now I don't have time to work on it.

[Xeniczone]

So it has been a while since I have worked on this. I'm going to restart without using the Spal Module. I have learnt that if you want something done right, you need do to it yourself.

Instead of doing the convenience key, I decided to do the more conventional push the key into the dash then push the start button. After doing some research I found this way to be much more secure than the leave your key in your pocket way. Simply because the convenience key is always transmitting. It also drains the battery more.

So in order to start with the push the key into the dash method (or PTKTIDM). I need to make a slot for the key to fit into.

First I covered the key with tape and than cover the bottom of the key with cardboard. This would create the lip for it to mount to the dash.



Now I covered the bottom with tape to make a smooth place for the fiberglass to sit.



Finally, I fiberglassed it and tried my best to vaccumm out the air.



Now we play the waiting game and see how it turns out. *fingers crossed* I must say fiberglassing something this small was freakin' hard.

What this part is, is the part that you slot the key into before pushing the start button. The car will then check to make sure the key that is inserted is a valid key to start the car. If not the car will not start. The key will feature encryption and rolling codes to keep everything good and secure.

[Xeniczone]

Fiberglass has dried and the verdict is in. It works perfectly. Key slides in and out with a little bit of resistance, which is good. Now I need to build all the electronics to go with it. The complicated parts will be all the mechanical stuff. From what I have seen in the videos, the key in the E90 is spring loaded, like a ball point pen. The key can be pushed in and locked into place. Going to have fun with that one. Or course this is just the raw product, it will need cleaning up a bit

[BimmerBreaker]

This seems like a lot of work just for a key

[crazym3albo]

Talent!

[Xeniczone]

This seems like a lot of work just for a key

Hopefully the ends will justify the means, hopefully.

Talent!

Thanks!

--------------------

Alright, now I needed to cut up that fiberglass mold. to a shape that would look more decent.




I painted it flat black, and discovered that the fiberglass wasn't perfect and needed some sanding.




After sanding the surface smooth, I gave it another coat of flat black.



I also drilled a small hole in the back. This is for a amber LED so at night you can see where to put the key. E9x's don't even have that feature . Here is an example of what that will look like.



For the most part, that thing is done. Still needs some more sanding and painting to really give it a quality finish. I may just give up and cover it in flat black vinyl to give it a smooth finish. Now lets get started on the button.

For this, I saw the button out of a 2009 Dodge Challenger, and loved the shape and color. I thought it would match the E39's interior quite well. I wasn't sure of the actual size so I went out and measured the key hole on our 2008 Town and Country and it measured about 25mm, so it seems that it is the proper size for what I want to do. I went out to our chrysler dealership and ordered one. They cost $12-$16 depending on your dealer and location.



Now, The button isn't actually a button. Basically, this means it won't work for any application except the 2008/2009 Challenger. All I want is the face of the button. To get the face off, you just need to stick a screw driver into the top, slide the screw driver all the way to the middle and pull up. The button face is simply clipped into the center.




Something odd, but also cool, the lettering on the button is partly transparent. Now I say that is odd because the button doesn't light up in the Challenger. Guess they never used this feature. I'm going to have to get another amber LED to make it light up. I'm thinking about making pulse like a heart beat when the key is placed into the dash.



I guess that is all for now. The project continues... Coming up next, mounting the button inside the car.

[nickMANDERFIELD]

dude, come over

[BimmerBreaker]

So you spent all this money and work on a key which you will shove nonchalantly into a rough fiberglass mold?

Doesnt getting the key all scratched while doing that kind of defeat the purpose entirely?

Also not sure why you didnt use the much nicer looking Z8 start button

[Xeniczone]

Well, I haven't spend much money at all on this. If you don't count my original attempt. So far I have only spend.

-E9x Key:-------------$12
-Challenger Button:--$5
-Arcade Button:------$5
-Total:----------------$22

The key actually takes a little force to shove it into the mold. The first 1.5" goes in easily, but that last 0.5" takes a little bit of force to get it to "click" in. Then the mold holds it there until you applies a little force pulling it out. This was not my original intention, I had actually planned for the key to fall in and out and was developing a way to lock in in there similar to how BMW does it, but since it holds itself in there, I see no reason in doing it.

The key actually doesn't get scratched up at all. Maybe it will start to show some wear after a years worth of inserting and taking out, but for the last month or so I've been playing with it, it hasn't shown any sign of wear.

The reason I didn't use the Z8 was I have never actually seen it, and I don't really like it as much as the Challengers button.

[Xeniczone]

Yay, another update. I know you're all excited, especially you BlackXS . I thought about what you said with the "rough fiberglass mold" and I think you're right. I may take another attempt at making a key slot or just buying one out of a wrecked E9x. They cost about 50-100 bucks, but whatever looks better.


Anywho, I made a decision on where I was going to put the push to start button, and I'm going to locate it where the fog light switch is. Now don't be stupid like I was and try to rip the thing out of there, actually learn how take it apart. To take it apart, you remove the knob, and there is a plastic nut that holds everything together. All you have to do is remove that nut and the whole assembly will come apart. I think it is 22mm, but I can't remember what size I used. Here is the ring for the fog lights. As you can see the center is conveniently broken out already .



Now, I'm going to relocate the foglight switch, so I want to remove the decal for the foglights. I need to find a company that can make a new one for me that will have the engine start decals on it. [0 (off/Pos 1/Key In), Acc (Pos 2), On (Engine Running)]. I tried to remove it carefully, but unfortunately I failed to keep it pristine. O well, I didn't ruin the logos, I can fill in the rest.



Now the button didn't quite fit in the hole completely, so I'm going to make a chrome bezel. To do this I need to get a convex mirror ~$1.30.



Remove the mirror from the casing. To do this just push it out along the edge.



Cover it in painter tape, and draw the cut line on it.



Cut it out with some steady hands and a dermal. I wish I had the proper machines here to cut this better, but they are all still at my parents old house .



I used some clay to hold everything in place, just to get an idea of what it would look like when it was all put together, just needed to see if I did good. I placed the old fog light decal on just to get an idea of what it would look like, of course, because it looks bad without any "sticker" there.



I wanted to get a picture of it lighting up with an amber LED, but I don't have anything with an amber LED. The only thing I could find that had an amber LED in it was my Sega Dreamcast, and it's one of the uncommon black sports version so I don't want to take it apart.

[BimmerBreaker]

Good to hear you came to your sense regarding the fiberglass mould. Buying a proper E9x unit would be the best way to do this

But um I think you put your start button in the wrong spot...


^^ Coolest/best spot for it IMO. Kind of James Bond style, flip it up, turn it on, close it...

You should probably consult with me before doing any more mods

[Xeniczone]

*facepalm* I get something right then I do it all wrong again. Wait... You said IMO. Good thing this isn't your car or you will probably be pulling your hair out.

No seriously, I really considered putting the button there. In fact the button is perfectly sized!



I mean, look at that. How perfect is it. The reason I picked the place I did was I thought it looked more OEM, and would be easier to relocate the fog switch than it would be to relocate the plug. The other location I planned (placing it on the trim) probably would have been one of the top 10 mortal sins of the E39, cutting technical graphite trim.

While I was outside, it was dark enough to get this picture. I shinned the LED from the foglight switch into the back of the button. Isn't perfect, but me likey.



EDIT: Damn it blackxs, your making me second guess my decision on the location.

[m3studio]

I love that newer key fob! Man your smart and doing awesome! I'm sure if its spot on, others would love a write-up to do it themselves.

[supark]

Usually I scratch my head at the whole push button start thing, but I have to say your ingenuinity and creativity with the install (along with the fact that you can close your windows with the remote which is super cool) is pretty impressive. How you thought of using a little vanity mirror as base material for a chrome bezel actually made me chuckle a little by how smart it was.

[BimmerBreaker]

Damn it blackxs, your making me second guess my decision on the location.

[Xeniczone]

I love that newer key fob! Man your smart and doing awesome! I'm sure if its spot on, others would love a write-up to do it themselves.

I just saw the keys for the F01/F10. Those things look pretty slick, but even broken ones cost 89 dollars each. So for now I'm going to stick with the E9x, I can always update it later when they get cheaper.

I would love to do a write up, but I'm going to design all the electronics from scratch, which would make replicating the project hard for those who aren't electrically inclined.

Usually I scratch my head at the whole push button start thing, but I have to say your ingenuinity and creativity with the install (along with the fact that you can close your windows with the remote which is super cool) is pretty impressive. How you thought of using a little vanity mirror as base material for a chrome bezel actually made me chuckle a little by how smart it was.

EDIT: You know, I asked the cashier if I could open the package before buying it to make sure it was plastic and not glass. They asked why. When I explained it to them they laughed to.

Believe it or not, I'm actually not a big fan of the push-button start either. Once you get past the "cool" factor, the push-button start makes absolutely no sense. The thing that is really nice about it though is that you can just sit down in the car, stick the key in, and push the button. You don't have to hold the button or hold the key until the engine start, the micro-controller does that for you. So, it does have some convenience to it.

I actually like walking around the store finding stuff that I can use to solve my problems. For example in this case, I needed a chrome bezel for my project, so I went to Walmart, king of cheap chinese stick-on crap for you car, and roamed the automative aisle then I saw the vanity mirror and put two and two together. If that was cut, that could make a chrome bezel.

It is all logical crap. I get told I'm smart all the time, but I'm pretty crippled at what people would consider normal stuff. Like I can do all this stuff, but I have no idea how to work a washing machine. :P

[blackxs crap]

lol, I don't think you could have possibly made that any bigger.

--------------------------------------------
Another fun update:

First, I needed to cut the extra plastic from the fog light's bezel.



Now lets turn our attention to this arcade button. Why an arcade button? For those that didn't grow up in the 80s, because I sure didn't, the arcade button has a long throw clicky feel to it, and they only cost about 2.99-6.99 depending on which one you get. Compare that to those stupid premade push-start buttons you buy which costs anywhere between 49-79 dollars. That's bull crap!



I drilled a hole in the bottom of it for the LED wire.



Now, to take the button apart, referring to the last picture, you just need to push those two tabs in on the bottom of it, and the actual button slides out. The button with the Challenger's face thing on it stuck out too far. To fix this, I measured how much it stuck out and cut it. Next, I paint the top of the button flat black, just in case some light leaks through it won't be obvious because of the bright red. Basically just makes it look better because you can't see what is behind the button.



I took the button holder and used plastic glue to attach it to the bezel from the fog switch. This bezel will now be used to indicate the status of the engine whether the key is in and the car is ready, or if the ACCessory is on, or if the engine is running. It will do that as soon as I get a new decal made for it. The reason you want to use a plastic cement is because plastic cement has some magical powers when glueing two pieces of plastic together. It actually chemically melts the two pieces of plastic together.



Just place the chrome bezel back into place. This is not glued in here, it is just so we can position the Challenger's button face correctly.



I took some more plastic glue and glued the Challenger's button face onto the arcade button. The glue takes two hours to dry. I checked on it every 30 mins, then after 1 hour, I removed the button from the fog bezel/button mount.



I mounted the assembly into its proper place. I'm going to glue to chrome bezel into place. This time I'm going to use hot glue for 2 reasons. First, Hot glue will fill in the void between the chrome bezel and fog light bezel. Second, hot glue isn't 100% permanent. This is good because if the chrome bezel ever got broken or scuffed I can replace it.



The bezel glue and mounted. The button works!



Here is an exploded view of everything. This way you can get an idea of how it all goes together. To start you need to take the button assembly and place it in the fog light hole on the cluster trim. Screw the nut into the button assembly and it will hold all that in place. Place the spring into the button and slide the button into the button assembly. Finally, attach the switch and your all done. It's actually quite amazing how this all goes together and is completely removable without ruining anything.



Welp, the weekend is over, I got to put my car back together. Here is what it looks like all assembled. Up next, I'm going to start working on some electronic crap. Need to start with the LED mounted inside the button. Got a few other project that I need to do, but since this one is going along so smoothly I think I will keep working on it. I'm talking to a guy who lives about 30 miles from me about buying some E36 M3 seats, and I want to redo my entire interior in black leather similar to that picture that blackxs posted. Finally get rid of that tan interior.



EDIT: Has anybody ever tried refilling a printer ink cartridge with spray paint. I wonder if that would work...

[XDewa2008]

dude, you are a boss!