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Thread: How To: E38/E39 Cruise Control and Multifunction Steering Wheel Retrofit to a '96 E36

  1. #26
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    Great writeup, but to be honest, I'm more jealous of your HK TrafficPro than the steering wheel.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by MParallel View Post
    Not sure if you mean this, but just for the record:

    The midrange and tweeter in the (front) doorcards have dedicated wires, that go to a single connector at the doorhinge. However, this connector has 2x2 pins inside it, so both speakers have dedicated +/- wires going all the way back to the amp. Whether this is equal to 2 channels or 1 I don't know.

    So the doorcard speakers have dedicated wires, the footwell woofers have dedicated wires, the rear midrange/tweeter pod has a single set of wires and a filter in the wire to the tweeter filters tones (funny enough I have seen the non-H/K Hi-Fi setup, and here the rear speakers do have dedicated wires for both) and the sub has 4 dedicated wires.
    I do. The tweeters and midranges connect to the same channel. Doesn't matter where the join was made, it's the same channels.

    Please trust me on this - HK only ever produced an 8-channel amp for any of the E36 (and early) E46 systems.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joylove View Post
    Do you have time or some pictures to check your CC module version? There is some discussion that HW08 SW04 is the minimum standard for modules to not need the MFL module. Thanks
    To be honest, I wouldn't know how to check the SW version of the GR2 module.

    Outwardly, it looks the same as most modules from that E38/9 era. Part numbers and a few other manufacturer codes.

    I wired it in to the diagnostics line, but like the OBC I retrofitted, it doesn't report itself when using my Carsoft setup. My guess - all modules fitted as standard in the factory are identified in the bus-master (my guess would be either the DME or the IP cluster) car-config file.

    If you can tell me what you're looking for, I'll pass the info on, but I'll have to take the glove box off again to get to it.
    Last edited by Bluebook; 04-14-2011 at 04:12 PM.

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebook View Post
    To be honest, I wouldn't know how to check the SW version of the GR2 module.

    Outwardly, it looks the same as most modules from that E38/9 era. Part numbers and a few other manufacturer codes.

    I wired it in to the diagnostics line, but like the OBC I retrofitted, it doesn't report itself when using my Carsoft setup. My guess - all modules fitted as standard in the factory are identified in the bus-master (my guess would be either the DME or the IP cluster) car-config file.

    If you can tell me what you're looking for, I'll pass the info on, but I'll have to take the glove box off again to get to it.
    Thanks that would really help. I'm after the HW and SW version written under the part number.

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joylove View Post
    Thanks that would really help. I'm after the HW and SW version written under the part number.
    Will do, then. I'll have a crack at it this weekend, if the kids leave me alone for an hour.

  6. #31
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    4 wires front L door, 4 wires fron R door, 2 wires foot L, 2 wires foot R, 2 wires back L that split by filter to high+mid (=4 wires to speakers), 2 wires back R that split by filter to high+mid (=4 wires to speakers), 4 wires on SUB (2 channel SUB) = 12speaker conection or 24 wires on all speakers.

    In speakers
    one channel L front LOW
    one channel L front MID
    one channel L front HIGH
    one channel R front LOW
    one channel R front MID
    one channel R front HIGH
    one channel L back HIGH
    one channel L back MID
    one channel R back HIGH
    one channel R back MID
    two channel SUB
    -------------
    total = 12 channels, but it is wrigth that the amp is only with 10 outputs but two are then splited with a filter for high and mid speakers (with this they get the extra 2 way SUB). Because of that the HK amp for a convertible is specific to the difference of an coupe or limo. The HK amp has filter inside it self allready specific for each shape of car (cabrio or coupe/limo)
    E36 320i conv 1/97':
    fog lights; power steering; M body; M steering wheel with MFL; M3 vader light gray leather seats w/heating; phone; cruise control; harmankardon; PDC; CD43 business radio+dension adapter USB+Ipod with ID3tags; hardtop+lift+stand; wind deflector; 17" stly22 Motorsport wheels; EWS; DWA alarm; remote central locking; 4x el.windows; CD changer; cup holder+CD box in glovebox; coin box in door; roll-bar; full auto.el.softtop; luggage straps; ASC; ABS; engine compartment light; glovebox light; automatic A/C with AUC; OBC; light cleaning; intensive wash; heated wash nozzles; fire extinguisher; westfalia towing hitch
    --------------------
    E30 318i sedan 9/87': everything expcept Mbody and sunroof

  7. #32
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    I have a question...

    my car is Z3 M with cruise control from E36 with Control Box (brain) part no 65711387625
    this one http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/1546/imag1039.jpg

    everything works fine but I want steering wheel from E39.
    if I buy GR2 Control Box (brain) 8 375 497 from 09/97 to 03/99
    and connect pin no 24 to pin 4 of the output connector of the slip ring of the MFL steering wheel.

    what need more? that all? this will work?

    sorry for my english and regards

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joylove View Post
    Thanks that would really help. I'm after the HW and SW version written under the part number.
    Why HW 05 / SW 03?

    These are all over ebay btw.

    I'm gonna use one of Dancerst HW08 versions.
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

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  9. #34
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  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joylove View Post
    That was just a stock image from Google Images. I am trying to find out a list of modules that definitely work without the MFL adaptor.
    Ah seen.

    Reason I went for one of the HW08 versions is that with this the on/off function will work of the "O" button as well which I have, even though I ordered the partnumber for the "O/I" switch.
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

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  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bluebook View Post
    E38/E39 Cruise Control and Multifunction Steering Wheel Retrofit to a '96 E36

    I began by just wanting a new steering wheel for my car, as the one fitted was hideously worn and the leather was ripped, and it spiralled into a complete retrofit of E38/39 GR2 cruise control (I had no cruise fitted), an IBus nav radio and the aforementioned E38 MFL steering wheel. As these things do

    But first
    - a disclaimer. My car is a Euro 03/96 320i six pot - essentially exactly the same as all six pot cars from that age, and this write-up can only be treated as accurate for those type of vehicles. Your four pot or diesel E36 may differ in some important areas, or it may not. I honestly don't know, as it was a hell of a lot of work just to research this retrofit, never mind taking in all the variants of the E36. Your experience may vary from mine, as they say.

    All dates used are, to the best of my knowledge, production dates at BMW, not necessarily the year of the registration of the vehicle. Any part numbers quoted are Euro variants, though they may be World Wide - I didn't investigate that aspect. If in doubt, consult a dealer for info, and research through Real OEM.

    First - Some History

    E38/39 Multifunction Steering Wheels

    From 12/95 to 09/96 the steering wheel controls connected to a separate control unit mounted under the dash via 3 wires, which sent out the IBus data on one wire and the cruise control data on another.

    From 09/96 to 03/99 (end of production of the type of steering wheel and slipring that will fit an E36) all the electronics were moved into the button housings on the wheel itself, having IBus and cruise data outputs directly, with two slight variants.

    1) From 09/96 to 09/97, the steeing wheel button for "cruise off" was marked with an "O" only, it was used with a separate "cruise on" switch on the dashboard.

    2) From 09/97 to 03/99, the steering wheel button for "cruise on/off" was marked "I/O" and the separate "cruise on" switch was deleted.

    I would recommend getting an MFL steering wheel from any production date fom 09/96 to 03/99, as they are much neater (having no separate decoder box) and because the good news is the code sent by the "O" button on the earlier 09/96-09/97 wheel to the GR2 brain is identical to the code sent by the "I/O" button on the later 09/97-03/99 wheel, the only difference being the printing on the button itself.

    I have a MFL steering wheel from a 03/97 E38, and a GR2 brain from a 05/98 E39 fitted to my car, and it works perfectly.


    GR2 Control Box (brain)


    I only considered GR2 boxes made from 09/96 onward, to more closely match the MFL steering wheel I'd already purchased, so I have no information about the earlier brains. They may be similar, I just don't know.

    From 09/96 on, they differ in two important ways (to this guide).

    1) From 09/96 to 09/97 the brain used a separate "cruise on" switch on the dashboard. If you get one of these, you will need to source the "cruise on" switch too.

    2) From 09/97 to 03/99 the separate "cruise on" switch was deleted, and all operations are controlled by the MFL steering wheel.

    I would recommend getting a GR2 brain from 09/97 to 03/99, as again it's neater, not requiring the separate "cruise on" switch. The part number for the brain I got was 8 375 497.

    But don't let that fool you, it's the same part number for pre - 09/97 brains as for post - 09/97 ones, it's the internal software that differs. The production date is the important thing.


    Cruise Control Actuator/Motor

    I think there were two different types fitted to the E38/39 between 12/95 and 03/99 - the earlier type had a round 7-pin connector, and the later type had an oval 7-pin connector. I didn't research the earlier type of actuator, as again I wanted one that more closely matched the ages of the items I had bought, to be safer.

    The part number for the actuator I bought is 8 369 027.

    I think the type changed on 03/96, but again, I'm not really sure.

    I would recommend getting a later one with the oval type connector. Why? Because I know they definitely work

    Try to buy a complete actuator, that includes the cable and the fittings at the end. The throttle body on my car came with dual-cams for both the throttle cable and the cruise actuator, and it fitted straight on.




    The Wiring Diagram


    Right - to the bones of the retrofit. Here is the wiring diagram I came up with. I have marked some connections with a * then a number. My notes will follow.



    Notes

    *1 Power supply.

    This is the wire that runs from the engine fuse box, from F46, to the brake light switch at the brake pedal. It is a violet/yellow wire. I picked up the feed underneath the fuse box, but you could just as easily get the feed from the brake switch itself. Those guys with check-control and a 4-wire brake light switch - I'm pretty sure the colours are the same for the wire feeds you need, but please check wiring diagrams.

    *2 Gear select input.


    This only applies to cars with an auto box obviously, and I don't know if the autobox control unit (EGS) fitted to the E36 even has this output you could use - you will have to research this for yourself. All I know for sure is if you leave this connection open-circuit, the cruise brain will be enabled. I have a manual gearbox, and that's what I did.

    *3 Cruise standby light.

    To my knowledge, there was never a light in the instrument cluster to show the cruise is enabled on those E36s fitted with cruise as standard, but there was on the E38/39s, so I had to use it

    I don't have Check Control fitted to my car, so I wired the output of the GR2 brain to pin 26 of the blue instrument cluster connector, X17. The Check Control idiot light now serves as my "cruise control enabled" light. Not perfect, I know, but good enough, until I think of something better

    There are other options depending on what was fitted as standard to your car (in other words, which lights are not used) but be aware - not all of the unused ones can be used for this purpose. The light must have a direct output from the instrument cluster via one of the white x16 or blue x17 connector pins. Please consult the Bentley manual electrical diagram ELE-165 for further info. Some lights show a diode symbol in series with the connecting line - this is fine, as the bulbs in the instrument cluster have a common internal +12v supply, and the bulb is switched on by grounding the output pin. This seems to be how almost all of the lights are lit in the cluster, and works just fine with the GR2 brain.

    *4 Clutch switch.

    I haven't fitted one of these yet, but I will do, and recommend you do too. I have just grounded this line for the moment.

    It isn't as dangerous as it may sound, as the GR2 brain has a rev signal input as a fail-safe, and constantly compares the rate of change of this signal to the rate of change of the speed signal it gets. If there is an obvious difference between the rates of change of these two signals (for instance, if you stamp on the clutch without hitting the brake) it cancels the cruise mode within 0.5 seconds. This equates to a rev rise of about 500 RPM only, so not really a problem.

    It has annoyed me on a few occasions though, so it's best to fit one. I will be.

    Obviously, those of you with auto boxes need not worry about this - just connect this line to ground permanently.

    *5 "Cruise on" Dashboard switch


    If you have a GR2 brain manufactured between 09/96 and 09/97, you will need one of these. It is a non-latching press switch that mometarily connects pin 22 of the GR2 brain to ground, to switch the cruise system into standby (ready) mode.

    If you manage to find a GR2 brain from 09/97 or later, just leave this pin unconnected.


    *6 Cruise Control Data Input


    This line connects to pin 4 of the output connector of the slip ring of the MFL steering wheel.

    What I don't know is anything about the earlier MFL steering wheels with the separate output box (12/95 - 09/96). This control box also has a cruise output line (pin 5 of X10171). Will this control the later GR2 brains? No idea.

    But since it makes little sense to change control data protocols (even if you change the electronics that generate them) then it is a gamble. Your choice, I guess


    *7 GR2 data line to EGS auto gearbox


    This took me a good while to work out. I'm pretty sure this line sends data to the auto box to tell it the cruise is enabled. As far as I can gather, it's to stop the EGS autobox brain from making annoying upchanges/downchanges when the cruise system is operating.

    This definitely applies to the EGS system in the E38/39, and I'm pretty sure it tells the EGS brain to load a different shift programme (like sport, winter etc) but one taliored for the cruise mode.

    I have no idea whether anything like this is available in the EGS system of the E36, I just left it open circuit as I have a manual gearbox.



    And I think that's about all I have. It was a big project, but very much worth doing.

    Hope it's helpful.

    that material I would need to control cruise control with steering wheel?

  12. #37
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    Hi guys. I'm puzzled by the differences between the retrofit harness and the vehicle schematics.

    In the retrofit harness I have, The clutch switch connects directly to the cruise actuator on pin A3, the wire is BL/BR. It also goes to the CC module.

    In all the E36/E39 diagrams and in the retrofit instructions, that wire is RT/BR and connect to pin 23 on the CC module.

    The CC module does not have any measurable link (diode, 0R resistor) internally between pins 2 and 23.

    Any ideas?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joylove View Post
    Hi guys. I'm puzzled by the differences between the retrofit harness and the vehicle schematics.

    In the retrofit harness I have, The clutch switch connects directly to the cruise actuator on pin A3, the wire is BL/BR. It also goes to the CC module.

    In all the E36/E39 diagrams and in the retrofit instructions, that wire is RT/BR and connect to pin 23 on the CC module.

    The CC module does not have any measurable link (diode, 0R resistor) internally between pins 2 and 23.

    Any ideas?
    Well I've noticed the clutch line doesn't even go to the module in my retrofit harness. So it needs to be rewired to run the clutch switch to the CC module and the pin 23 to the CC actuator; to match the newer models, otherwise it'll never activate.

  14. #39
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    From Dancert I know you only need 11 wires in total for it to work. I don't have the diagram here at hand. The whole retrofit kit is much easier than the factory setup, but has the same functions.
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

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  15. #40
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    I have the retrofit harness, but looking at the cruise actuator connector I have, I think it is a pre 1995 harness

    The pre 1995 harness is different on both the actuator connector and the places the clutch switch wire goes to.

    Also the pre 1995 cruise actuator is not compatible, it uses a bowden cable that is not compatible with the M52 throttle body.

    You must use a post facelift bowden, cruise actuator connector and actuator. You cannot mix and match the engine bay parts at all. I have all the parts pre and post 1995 and confirmed this to be the case.
    Last edited by Joylove; 06-28-2011 at 10:04 AM.

  16. #41
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    Bluebook - who is the PIN number on Becker Traffic Pro for connecting with Multifunction Sterring wheel (on "C").I need to contol it from wheel

    I retrofit MFL from X5 to my E36 and now i need more extras....

  17. #42
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    I’m in the middle of trying to get the MFL to work with a CD43. My car is a 99 e36 323is and it came with the M3 steering wheel. I got the button pods from a similar style e46 wheel and used a e38 slip ring. I’m having trouble getting the pods to power up. I found a schematic that matches the color wires coming from my pods but instead of i-bus it shows k-bus. Will these pods work at all or do I need to look for a different set?



    e46 schematic


    Pods soldered to slip ring… (both connectors were female)


    I used wires from an SRS connector out of a different car as the pins fit properly into the factory connector.


    Here is the schematic updated with the correct wire colors used in my conversion.



    I connected the Gray wire from the pods to 12v and the blue wire is connected to ground as factory in the e36 so why don’t the buttons at least power up (light up)?

    Any ideas? Thanks!
    Last edited by lovnbmws; 02-05-2012 at 10:50 PM.

  18. #43
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  19. #44
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    Okay so its been a little while getting my car back for the exhaust shop and the rest of the engine sorted out to drive the car. Now its up a running and I have a chance to focus back on the MFL. I checked my connections and I'm getting power and ground to the button pods but still no lights and the controls do not work. What other stimulus should I try on the pods? Is it possible I have the wrong schematic and have made the wrong connections? Or could my pods be bad??? I'm not sure what to test next. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!

  20. #45
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  21. #46
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    Correct, I was checking this last night in the very very dark

    buttons are not working, no light and no functionality...

  22. #47
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    What's with all the wires on the back of the wheel? If you have the correct slipring it's all plug&play with the car. No need for any splicing of wires and stuff.

    PS: These button pods were never used on an E46. Only E38/E39.

    You should not use an E46 wiring diagram.

    It's so easy. The purple wire is the wire for lights of pods and powering the buttons.

    White = ibus wiring.

    Connect purple to switch +12v and white to radio wiring loom's yellow ibus wire (which goes to pin 7 on the back of the radio) and it will work.
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
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  23. #48
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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by MParallel View Post
    What's with all the wires on the back of the wheel? If you have the correct slipring it's all plug&play with the car. No need for any splicing of wires and stuff.

    PS: These button pods were never used on an E46. Only E38/E39.

    You should not use an E46 wiring diagram.

    It's so easy. The purple wire is the wire for lights of pods and powering the buttons.

    White = ibus wiring.

    Connect purple to switch +12v and white to radio wiring loom's yellow ibus wire (which goes to pin 7 on the back of the radio) and it will work.

    I stand corrected. I went back through my eBay history and found the auction for the steering wheel. It is in fact out of an e39 540i not an e46.

    The pods and the slip ring both had female connectors so it was not as simple as plugging them together. I either had to find the correct male connector or splice the wires together.

    If you notice in the pictures I posted above do not have any purple wires… the wire colors coming from my pods are white, gray, blue and red. Form the slip ring yellow, gray, blue and black.

    My slip ring is form an e38 750iL with heated steering wheel and for some reason I thought the steering wheel was from an e46. I looked through several schematics of e38’s and e46’s to match the wire colors as was not surprised when I found a matching schematic from an early e46.

    After verifying the pods are actually from an e39 I went back through e39 schematics and found one with the correct wire colors. It’s the same as the one from the e46 except the function of the cruise and power supply are switched.

    I just verified the correction by connecting what I thought was my cruise signal to 12v and the steering wheel controls now light and work correctly

    Thanks all for your help! Next step Dice MB-1500 and cruise control…

    Has anyone gotten the MFL cruise to work in conjunction with the factory stock control? I often prefer the lever arm but I hate the idea of nonfunctional buttons or the look of asymmetrical wheel if I replaced the cruise pod with a blank…

  25. #50
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    You can buy a small wire(ing loom) to connect both pods together. I used this so my whole steering wheel is exactly how it's in an E38/E39.

    Cruise control can work, but for the button controls, you need the module from an E39/E38, preferably a higher hard/software version.

    Then next up, is an original BMW carphone with steering wheel controls
    1998 BMW M3 3.2 Cabrio • Alpinweiß III on Schwarz • German spec • 1 of 12
    SMG • SRA • PDC • AUC • OBC • GSM • HK • UURS • IHKA • FGR • MFL

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