When I was putting in my LSD, i tore my already weak outer CV boot. They're all pretty crappy...small cracks in all four. It's flinging bearing grease all over my fuel pump, which I don't appreciate, so I think i'm going to rebuild them.
I was looking at ordering new ones, or even ones from e-bay, but they're about $50 each, plus shipping. Bavauto has some rebuild kits, which come with the parts below:
For about $13 each. four of them plus shipping is about $62. Has anyone used their kit before, or do yall have any other recommendations?
(Pics of rebuild to come, although it should be simple enough.
I just got all 4 kits from pelicanparts. OE Febi parts for around $10 each.
Febi shows up as $12.50 on PP, same as BavAuto.
where were you seeing complete CV Joints for $50 ea?
See also this thread
W & N is a bit more expensive, but they include the end caps, which are both seals.
Actually, after searching extensively tonight, I have found them cheaper. Rockauto.com is selling complete half shafts for $74, plus a $75 core. The pic doesn't include the outside end caps, but does show the inner cap, boot & CV joint.
Anyone know anything about the A1 Cardone brand?
Last edited by Jester323; 05-06-2010 at 03:20 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I "rebuilt" mine years ago using that same kit. Messy but easy job. If your joints are too worn (due to dirt getting in) you'll have to replace them.
Be careful not to distort the end caps. To re-seal them, make sure the mating surfaces are grease free, use a thin bead of loctite or "right stuff" around the inside corner of the cap.
If you take the axles out of your car after it's running after all the complaining you do about it not running, I will set it on fire.
You know, removing and rebuilding CV joints is a PITA. Would be much easier to just clean the fuel pump off every now and then
lol And then replace the half shafts completely in a year after the grease that hasn't flung out is loaded up with CV mincing grit and dirt! Or you can wait till they get so bad they start clunking when you hit the throttle, or better yet till they just blow apart. Good idea, just wipe the pump off and get over it.
It's easy to do. 12 bolts per half shaft to get them out. Cut the boots off, take them apart, wipe the grease off, degrease them with brake cleaner, put new boots on, assemble the CV, fill them with grease, reclamp, reinstall and you're done.
Last edited by jrcook320; 05-06-2010 at 01:14 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Matt was being sarcastic since it seems drew's major concern was the cleanliness of the fuel pump. Don't worry, he's not an idiot.
Anyone know where else to buy just the CV joint? I found two last night & ordered them, now I'd like to find two for the other side and not have to deal with the core charge & shipping both ways for a complete half shaft. But I also want to rebuild these before I make the BF trip.
Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
Anyone know where else to buy just the CV joint? I found two last night & ordered them, now I'd like to find two for the other side and not have to deal with the core charge & shipping both ways for a complete half shaft. But I also want to rebuild these before I make the BF trip.
Any help here would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by Jester323; 05-06-2010 at 04:04 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
How does the core charge work for them? Buying the entire assembly from them is $10 cheaper than what you paid for just the rebuild kit. I might go this route, though there is a place around my house called Inter Auto Parts that I usually buy all my parts from since he just beats any price I tell him.
I dont know about you guys but I think this will be like the 3rd time replacing these, but maybe I just replaced them one at a time.
yeah, I'm not sure & was a little pissed that I got hasty & ordered them without giving the actual CV joint more consideration. However, there seems to be some overlap in parts. The complete assembly from Rock Auto (at least in the pic) doesn't come with the outer end caps or grease, W & N was the only place I could find that sold those outer caps.
I also just found that www.autopartsnerd.com has complete shafts for $67ea, and only a $50 core charge, AND best of all, free shipping on orders over $50.
I'm still mystified that I can't find just the CV joint anywhere, only the boot kit or the mostly complete assembly. Even RealOEM doesn't show just the CV. So after all my parts come in, I guess I'll have some extra stuff laying around. Oh well.
Just a guess based on reading the Haynes, is that perhaps they are sold as an assembly because they are balanced. I don't think it really matters; I don't think I paid much attention to orientation of parts when I did mine, but it has been awhile and I don't really remember.
Also, I don't see what the big deal about reusing end caps is. Just knock them off with a wood drift and they should be ok to reuse.
I dont mean to hijack this thread...... but
I finally got my drive shaft back last night. Everything went on fine but I am thinking I need a new CV joint.
The 6 ball bearings fell out of the shaft when I initially pulled it off. I put the Middle piece back on the yoke coming from the shaft itself, and the other circular one on top (i am assuming to hold everything in)
It was janky and I figured it wouldn't work.. I just greased everything up and tossed it in lol
When I put the car in gear and let off the clutch it's trying to grab - making noise where it meets the diff - but nothing happens.
I called a local shop who arent full of retards and I was told to check and see if the shaft is spinning. I am pretty sure it was and he said maybe then it's a problem with the diff. But I have a feeling it has to be the CV joint as the way I ahve it put together does not look nearly as snug as pictures Im looking at.
Halp my dumbass
Last edited by maskellBYAH; 05-07-2010 at 09:04 AM.
“This is not ‘Nam. This is bowling. There are rules.”
Sounds like you're beyond "halp".
yeah, if the ball bearings were able to fall out, then the assembly is significantly worn and/or completely free from grease.
yes, you can possibly put them all back in if you put them back correctly, and it might get you home, but once a CV joint gets to that point, it will soon detonate on you. Order yourself a new one.
Thanks for your input!
Any idea where the cheapest one is?
$166.00 from parts geek
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
Last edited by maskellBYAH; 05-07-2010 at 12:37 PM.
“This is not ‘Nam. This is bowling. There are rules.”
I have a GREASE question .
Is the OE cv grease MOLY, Lithium, or just general purpose? My haynes just says: "grease".
Last edited by epmedia; 05-07-2010 at 12:44 PM.
Tbd
Moly blend, Use grease specifically for CV joints. I think that may be a part of the reason I just spun one of mine, I used wheel bearing grease for disc brakes when I re-packed mine last summer. I just noticed that the grease W & N sent my has a lower viscosity. By the way it feels in the pouch.
Also, something else I've been wondering about, you guys think that these are directional? I hadn't given this much thought until yesterday when I ordered my new half shafts and noticed that they are marked "right" and "left". I know they will fit either way, and the CV joint being directional is the only reason I could think of for this.
Last edited by Jester323; 05-10-2010 at 09:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I would believe they could be directional ESPECIALLY if they have only been rebuilt. I've never had one apart before, yet I can easily imagine that there may be a SLIGHT angle on the grooves for the balls, for torque in the forward direction. I dunno though .
Example: so the parts don't tend to wear in just one small area (I'm just reaching for possibilites)?
Last edited by epmedia; 05-07-2010 at 01:36 PM.
Tbd
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