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Thread: Coolant overflow tank options

  1. #1
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    Coolant overflow tank options

    What do you guys w/ e36's do with the coolant overflow tank? Is there a better option than keeping the stock overflow tank and fan shroud? I would like to ditch the stock fan shroud and the stock overflow tank. I'm aware of the Euro overflow tank and all- aluminum Zionsville stuff. Canton, e.g., doesn't seem to make anything for our cars, from what I can tell.

    The car has an aluminum radiator, one fan (SPAL puller), and an oil cooler.

    Should I stop griping and just replace the stock tank every few seasons? Thanks for ideas.

  2. #2
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    i'm very happy with my euro expansion tank, it really cleans up the engine compartment. i think i got it from tischer BMW they had the best price on it at the time.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by autocross97 View Post
    i'm very happy with my euro expansion tank, it really cleans up the engine compartment. i think i got it from tischer BMW they had the best price on it at the time.

    don t you need a separate hardware kit for that too? Some places carry it but it's possible to fab your own up
    P/N 17111712641 late model US E30 6cyl have it and it is the same exact one used on the euro E36 engines (S50B32 and S50B30)


    here s a DIY

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t=euro+coolant



    I should do this

    EDIT: this DIY does not require to buy those separate mounting kit BMW tuners sell for 80 bucks. it uses the OEM mounting brackets from the Euro E36 M3
    Last edited by das borgen; 02-15-2010 at 07:35 AM.
    -Rich-


  4. #4
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    These guys have a nice alum one

    http://www.cesmotorsport.com/
    Ryan
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by das borgen View Post
    don t you need a separate hardware kit for that too? Some places carry it but it's possible to fab your own up
    P/N 17111712641 late model US E30 6cyl have it and it is the same exact one used on the euro E36 engines (S50B32 and S50B30)


    here s a DIY

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...t=euro+coolant



    I should do this

    EDIT: this DIY does not require to buy those separate mounting kit BMW tuners sell for 80 bucks. it uses the OEM mounting brackets from the Euro E36 M3

    i just fabbed up my own mounting stuff out of scrap i had around the garage

  6. #6
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    what do you guys do about the SAI pump? (secondary Air Injection)
    you know, for u s that need to pass emissions
    -Rich-


  7. #7
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    Racecars don't need to pass no stinkin emissions test. I would guess most guys on this forum don't have the pump anymore.
    Kyle Burkhardt
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    I'm running the Zionville add-on shroud and expansion tank. It is attached to a Mishimoto radiator and has worked very well here in Texas where we do get some heat. I have a 16" puller fan that was easy to attach to the shroud. The shroud had an outer lip that met up with the lip on the top and the bottom of the radiator. I think you can see that in the pictures The tank is attached to the shroud so no issues with locating it under the hood.

    http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/s...code/AASET.htm
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    Canton makes a real nice one or Speedway has one for cheap but it's tall.


  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by autocross97 View Post
    i just fabbed up my own mounting stuff out of scrap i had around the garage
    I did the same for the euro bottle in my car. I used some scrap alu stock to attach the bottle... I also used bulk heater hose/ hose barbs to make all my connections. The bottle is basically an e30 one. It really makes bleeding much easier, and since I wasn't running a shroud anymore with my spal, it was a no-brainer to dump the stock tank.

    Here's a few shots of my setup:


    BMW Parts Whore... BUY THEM PLEASE!!!

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    You might be able to fit one of these by the passenger side firewall:

    http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=80-236

    If you mount it high enough, system bleeding will be much easier.
    Brian
    SE36 #206

  12. #12
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    so i have a 95, i was thinking of doing this also. i just picked up a PWR 57mm and i want to relocate the expansion tank. Am i correct in saying that i will only need the extended hose, euro tank, and a mounting bracket?

    Thanks in advance

    William

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

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    Yeah, and extend your level sensor wiring. IIRC the "Euro" bottle also uses a different sensor. Maybe not though, I'm too lazy to look it up. Just make your own bracket from scrap. Its cheap, easy, and gets the job done.

    BMW Parts Whore... BUY THEM PLEASE!!!

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    thanks

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

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    I run a Canton tank in my car:
    http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=80-200

    It's located in the euro location (so not for those with secondary air pumps), high enough to self bleed. It also sports a Stant lever cap, making it the perfect hack solution to my failing HG engine that keeps pressurizing my coolant with escaped exhaust gasses. Just lift the lever before each on-track session and volia! coolant system is as good as new.

    1995 BMW M3/2: arktissilber with silly stickers // a big boy's track toy, #228 IP-lite/GTS2.
    1998 BMW M3/4: arktissilber with sillier pink motorsport flags // sadly missed ex-daily driver, current track toy for the wife
    2014 Tesla Model S P85D // refreshingly mod-proof
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    and the obnoxious towing setup to accommodate two little crazy kiddios and all their stuff that comes along with the family circus on track weekends.

  16. #16
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    The proper way to use the Euro tank is with the Euro hardpipe under the intake manifold. It goes around the back of the head. However, you can extend the factory USA hose as some have done or even reverse it and go behind the block and over the transmission and then add a short connector. You can do the same with a 48 inch section of coolflex corrugated stainless or copper heater hose and a short extension. Screw or rivet the Euro tank brackets rather than weld for easier installation.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    The proper way to use the Euro tank is with the Euro hardpipe under the intake manifold. It goes around the back of the head. However, you can extend the factory USA hose as some have done or even reverse it and go behind the block and over the transmission and then add a short connector. You can do the same with a 48 inch section of coolflex corrugated stainless or copper heater hose and a short extension. Screw or rivet the Euro tank brackets rather than weld for easier installation.
    even on a US S50?

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by benaj View Post
    I run a Canton tank in my car:
    http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...ion&key=80-200

    It's located in the euro location (so not for those with secondary air pumps), high enough to self bleed. It also sports a Stant lever cap, making it the perfect hack solution to my failing HG engine that keeps pressurizing my coolant with escaped exhaust gasses. Just lift the lever before each on-track session and volia! coolant system is as good as new.
    Thanks for sharing info, gents. Benaj, how/where did you mount your Canton and do the stock hoses mount to it ok? Interesting way to release pressure. How long will this pressure madness continue?

    Zionsville will sell the expansion tank alone for $200.

  19. #19
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    As stated you can use the later US M20 reservoir (AKA the "euro" reservoir) or aftermarket. I have a Joe's Racing Products aluminum reservoir which looks a lot like the Canton one that Benaj shows...but it was ~$40 less. Mine has a cage mount since my cage goes to the front towers so mounting really isn't an issue but they also offer a sheet metal mount.

    Cheers.
    Jack $


    "The original M3 is utterly brilliant in ways the people at M have either forgotten about or choose to ignore."

  20. #20
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    +1 for Euro E36M3 coolant reservoir.



    We use them on the LS1 V8 swapped E36 cars we build. Tidies up the engine compartment and gives more room in front of the engine (needed for V8 front mounted TB and air intake piping)



    As for mounting, Matteucci used the Euro M3 factory mounting brackets, slips and tabs on the tank and added them to the US-spec E36 chassis. Pretty slick and 100% factory fit. Or you could just make a bracket from scrap steel (for the back) and mount the snap-in front mount (double barrel black plastic mount) to another tab.

    Cheers,
    Terry Fair @ Vorshlag Motorsports

  21. #21
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    I have a Canton aluminum expansion tank in mine and it works great. Had to fab up a couple tabs to mount it.
    '94 325is #94 IP/GTS3 Mauritius Blue Metallic
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    RetroG,

    I have been asked several times about this conversion and have been meaning to post some details of it on this forum to share with others, so if you don't mind I will thread jack for a short minute and post up some pictures and details of my project.

    If I had had more than a week or so to get this project done (meaning not pressed for time to get my car back up and running in the time between two driving events), I probably would have done the hose routing a bit different (i.e. try to delete some hoses and route the larger lower return hose behind the engine instead of extending that lower stock hose that goes all to the front of the engine, taking it all the way back to the new reservoir location). As Jack alluded to as well above, you can save a bit of money if you do some research and not scramble last minute for parts. For reference, I wound up putting just under $200 into this set up as it stands:

    Canton 80-200 tank, plus
    3/4" barb x 1/2" NPT adapter
    5/16" barb x 3/8" NPT adapter

    The tank is mounted where the secondary air pump would be for S/M52 engines. I quick fabbed up some angle brackets that the wings of the tank mount to with screws and aligned them up over stock threaded holes in the chassis so the tank with brackets actually mounted to the car using old BMW hardware. The power center stays in the stock location and does not need to be relocated.







    For the upper/smaller supply hose you will need 6 ft of 5/16" heater hose (NAPA part number NBH H149, $1.29/ft). This hose runs along the passenger side fender around to the top of the radiator. I used zip ties along the wiring bundle of the fender and a few adel clamps to get it to run along the top tabs of the radiator and into the stock location.



    The lower/larger return hose drops out the bottom of the tank, through that hole in the chassis and follows along the passenger shock tower to eventually join up with the stock hose. For this hose I wound up coping a friend's Euro reservoir setup used on his E30M3 S50 transplant track car. His car uses a second S50 stock radiator hose to extend the preexisting stock one back to his Euro tank. That lower stock hose (BMW part 1153 1730 351) has several bends that make it work very well for this conversion. You wind up cutting off about 8-10" of length and attaching it to the preexisting lower hose with a 3/4"x3/4" brass hose barb. My only criticism with this setup is that it creates quite a long multi-splice hose (from underneath the intake manifold, spliced once under the MAF by the factory, then spliced again now by this conversion at the lower passenger side of the radiator-- not ideal). Once again, probably would be better to go behind the engine if you had the time to route the tubing.







    The Stant cap is nice in that you just pull the lever and the pressure can be completely evacuated from the system. With my failing HG, I now do this several times throughout the day before I go out on the track, helping me to ignore the fact that my engine needs an expensive rebuild. The fact that my engine is down on power only helps to motivate me to drive better. As far as I could find, I bought the highest rated Stant lever cap they make, which is 21-25# pressure limit. Unfortunately this is still less than the stock 2 bar OEM BMW cap. Technically this should reduce the cooling efficiency of the system IIRC, but in my case helps me to get rid of more of that unwanted pressure from my failing HG sooner. My 57mm PWR core radiator is more than enough cooling capacity for our Midwest weather, so in the end I don't loose sleep at night about the lower rated cap. A bit of scrap vinyl tubing and a gatorade bottle tucked into the fender there for a catch can, completes the set up.

    A bit of a hack installation but this conversion has worked well for my car. Like I said before I would have done a few things a little differently the next time around. A proper Euro conversion with the correct return hosing would reduce a big bulk of hosing in the engine bay and the multiple splices. I might eventually redo it one day when I dig in there to delete out the the thottle body coolant hosing, etc. on my car.

    Good luck,

    Ben

    edit: Hey Kim, you beat me to it with the picts, looks great!
    Last edited by benaj; 04-16-2015 at 01:31 PM.

    1995 BMW M3/2: arktissilber with silly stickers // a big boy's track toy, #228 IP-lite/GTS2.
    1998 BMW M3/4: arktissilber with sillier pink motorsport flags // sadly missed ex-daily driver, current track toy for the wife
    2014 Tesla Model S P85D // refreshingly mod-proof
    2014 BMW X1 // 4 banger MSport with a kiss of Dinan
    and the obnoxious towing setup to accommodate two little crazy kiddios and all their stuff that comes along with the family circus on track weekends.

  23. #23
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    Whenever mounting an overflow in the same location as the Euro M3, its super easy to plumb whatever reservoir you use with the stock Euro M3 coolant line. Its a formed hard plastic, factory quality coolant line that fits the contours of the E36 chassis perfectly, and routes behind the strut tower - far away from the engine or exhaust header. Slip a rubber hose over the ends and connect to the nipples on your fabbed reservoir and radiator. Done. There are even factory clips and holes in the chassis that secure it along its route.



    You can see the plastic black tube running from the nipple at the (E36 aftermarket aluminum) radiator neck, along the back of the radiator, curving behind the RF headlight, aiming back to the cowl, then turning right to the Euro M3 plastic reservoir location. This particular car's coolant line held up perfectly for street, auto-x and track use with a 550 hp engine, since 2005...
    Last edited by Fair; 02-16-2010 at 06:11 PM.
    Terry Fair @ Vorshlag Motorsports

  24. #24
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    Fair, that is exactly what I wished I had had the time to do the first time around if I could have gotten the Euro parts fast enough for my timeline. Using two stock US S50/2 BMW coolant hoses spliced together is not ideal. It works, but it is kind of a hack solution.

    1995 BMW M3/2: arktissilber with silly stickers // a big boy's track toy, #228 IP-lite/GTS2.
    1998 BMW M3/4: arktissilber with sillier pink motorsport flags // sadly missed ex-daily driver, current track toy for the wife
    2014 Tesla Model S P85D // refreshingly mod-proof
    2014 BMW X1 // 4 banger MSport with a kiss of Dinan
    and the obnoxious towing setup to accommodate two little crazy kiddios and all their stuff that comes along with the family circus on track weekends.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fair View Post
    Whenever mounting an overflow in the same location as the Euro M3, its super easy to plumb whatever reservoir you use with the stock Euro M3 coolant line.
    About a year ago I picked up the factory line and hooked it up as you described. It looked much better (not sure where the pics are tho). I will be sure to keep this setup once I find a new US motor.
    '94 325is #94 IP/GTS3 Mauritius Blue Metallic
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