318i injection system needed

[LilLance]

So I'm pretty fed up with dealing and tendering with the CIS injection system and I'm looking to get rid of it now. With that said I'm now looking for the 318i injection system to swap onto my m10. I know it's going to take some tedious handywork, but I'm so ready to do so. So I wanted to let everyone know, if you have any injection parts for this swap to let go or sale, I'm more than interested. Plus any help would be a huge. I'll besure to make a good thread to follow.

[DrewDude320i]

are you trying to go down the L-Jetronic or Megasquirt (or other standalone) path?

[epmedia]

Another "giver-upper"?
What's the problem with your CIS LilLance?

I'm just thinking that if the stock CIS is too much for you, then the newer systems could overwhelm you?
If I were you, I'd try troubleshooting your existing issues..
Heck, I got mine going 11 years ago after it sat fot 6 years with 3 inches of rust in the tanks, and drove it home 500 miles, I bet you can figure out the issues you are having, even from just my adventures...

[jabbatron]

I don't have any parts to offer, but I did this conversion about a year and a half ago. I pulled all the parts from an '84 318i in a junkyard. Then I spent about two full days carefully studying both the wiring diagram of the 320i and the 318i (just used Chilton/Haynes manuals), then went through and did a mockup with the new wiring harness, removing anything that wasn't needed and did the actual conversion in about a day and a half. The more parts you can grab from a donor 318i, the better. I got everything down to the EFI computer, the idle regulator, the air flow sensor. I think the hardest part was figuring out the wiring to the fuel pump relay, but like I said, the more parts you can get off one complete donor car, the better off you'll be. I took the opportunity to cut out the battery tray and weld it into the trunk as well.

Also one more thing to note, mine is an '80 320i, so the distributor that I had worked fine with the new system. I've heard if you have the pre-'80 cars, then you'll have to mess with swapping distributors and maybe the distributor gear as well. The main thing is to do a lot of research about this ahead of time and be sure you know every single wire on both systems, so that you don't have any guesswork when you are doing the conversion.

[LilLance]

Well, I'm trying not to entirely to give up. Epmedia, it's been a rocky road. So I ran into some major issues with the car running but would die when igave it throttle, so I assumed a lean issue, so enrichened the mixture, but no progress was making way. So I towed the cAr home. Torn everything apart, cleaned everything including the fuel dizzy(which I replaced the orings), I got the correct WUR in there(before this I was using a WUR from a Porsche 924), flushed the injector lines, replaced the pressure regulator orings, replaced the injector seals, and got all new vacuum hoses that hook into the intake and the throttle body as well. I also replaced the intake gaskets I am about to replace the valve cover gasket too. But so far with everything hooked up and nothing appearing to be leaking, it'll crank and want to start but just keep cranking. Occassionally will back blow through the intake. I tried adjusting the air/fuel mixture til the injectors opened, but they barely started spraying, closer to streaming. I'm not sure if the pump is just not putting out enough pressure or if something isn't holding the pressure. Whattya guys think or would suggest I try. If Ivan get this CIS system to work properly, I'll most definitely keep it!

[epmedia]

Ok - first off; Jrcook320 is the master for tshoting CIS, and all the specs are in his FAQ thread.

I'll just tell you an adventure of mine for now:
- '78 sat for 6 years, 3" of rust in the tanks.
- blew through 5 fuel filters, till I cleaned the tanks.
- "back-flushed" the fuel injectors (home method).
- removed the little filters under the fuel lines on the fuel dist.
- cleaned the inlet screen on the external fuel pump every time I changed the fuel filter.

- aside from the above, you may need to check your fuel pressures (see faq).

that's all for now

[DrewDude320i]

I understand his frustration with k-jet, especially for turbo tuning. MS would be much simpler to tune, once installed.

[epmedia]

K-jet is really not that difficult as long as all the filters are clean, the pumps are pumping, the injectors are clean, and fuel pressures are correct. Piece of cake? (I know early models are easier to TS than newer models, but same principals).

[DrewDude320i]

K-jet can be very temperamental and is rather inaccurate - even Josh will vouch for that. Mine would act up when the humidity changed, and sometimes went lean for no reason, only to correct itself a few minutes later.

[epmedia]

K-jet can be very temperamental and is rather inaccurate - even Josh will vouch for that. Mine would act up when the humidity changed, and sometimes went lean for no reason, only to correct itself a few minutes later.

I'll vouch for that as well. Probably why I ended up rigging a "cold start" injector button. I almost gave up years ago - having to adjust the afm every season, and between smog tests. I think I have it figured out now though (hopefully) .

I suppose I'll edit this post: If my wife is able to start the car every day of the year, to and from her workplace, without any help from me fiddling with it - I'd say it's "good-to-go" by now (knock on wood) .

Also - I think the correction part could just be the injectors. They sometimes need a minute to flush themselves out, mine does that too. Just let it idle for a minute, good-to-go. I was even told by a master tech that the easiest way to clean the injectors, is to just let the engine idle for a few minutes (if fuel system clean).

[LilLance]

Epmedia, how'd you back flush your injectors?

[epmedia]

Epmedia, how'd you back flush your injectors?

It's a bit difficult to explain my home method without pics, but I'll give it a try.

Stuff needed:
1) tiny air compressor (capable of 60psi) with a guage.
2) plastic air compressor hose, and fittings to fit the rubber hoses.
3) about 6" length of 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" clean, rubber fuel injection hoses.
4) four hose clamps that will fit all the above hoses.
5) * BARE(not coated) copper wire strand (removed from stranded 18g electrical wire).
6) solvent - preferably 'spray can' carb cleaner (I used wd40 since it's less flammable).
7) eye goggles, fire extinguisher , rags and good, clean plastic jug.
8) a few good fingernails.

* strand of copper wire examples ::

Recommended - use one strand from a (big strands) 18g copper stranded wire.
18g-stranded-copper-wire.jpg

Or - twist a few strands together from a (tiny strands) 18g copper stranded wire.
multi-strand-copper-wire2.jpg


You can jump right into backflushing, OR - test the spray patterns before disconnecting the fuel lines, just so you have an idea of what their condition is. If they don't make a fog of fuel - they are dirty (ie: just pissing, or dripping when the pressurized afm plate is lifted)... I used the clear plastic jug for this, with caution not to spray fuel on ignition, or electrical systems.

BE GENTLE WITH RUBBER HOSES - and do net let any rubber particles get in the injectors. If you suspect any - back flush again.

OK - with the injectors removed;
1) GENTLY use a finger nail to pull the injector valve enough to wrap the copper wire strand, to hold the valve open a little, give the wire one twist, leaving enough length for the rubber hose to secure it against the injector tube when hose clamp is applied. Fingernails and copper are used to NOT scratch the valve on the injector.

2) slip hose over the wire and injector tube, secure the hose/wire to the injector with one, or two hose clamps.

3) fill hose with solvent, connect compressed air (low pressure first - to make sure hose is secure).

4) blow that solvent through - monitor the crap that comes out. Do it a dozen times if you have to.

5) remove the copper wire, and hook the hose to the inlet side of the injector. Fill the hose with solvent, blow that stuff through at 60 psi, and monitor the spray(fog) pattern. If not good - backflush again.

I'll try to do a sketch of the copper wire, I'll post it in a few minutes...

[LilLance]

It's a bit difficult to explain my home method without pics, but I'll give it a try.

Stuff needed:
1) tiny air compressor (capable of 60psi) with a guage.
2) plastic air compressor hose, and fittings to fit the rubber hoses.
3) about 6" length of 1/4", 5/16", and 3/8" clean, rubber fuel injection hoses.
4) four hose clamps that will fit all the above hoses.
5) copper wire strand (removed from stranded 18g electrical wire).
6) solvent - preferably carb cleaner (I used wd40 since it's less flamable).
7) eye goggles, fire extinguisher , rags and good, clean plastic jug.
8) a few good fingernails.


You can jump right into backflushing, OR - test the spray patterns before disconnecting the fuel lines, just so you have an idea of what their condition is. If they don't make a fog of fuel - they are dirty (ie: just pissing, or dripping when the pressurized afm plate is lifted)... I used the clear plastic jug for this, with caution not to spray fuel on ignition, or electrical systems.

BE GENTLE WITH RUBBER HOSES - and do net let any rubber particles get in the injectors. If you suspect any - back flush again.

OK - with the injectors removed;
1) GENTLY use a finger nail to pull the injector valve enough to wrap the copper wire strand, to hold the valve open a little, give the wire one twist, leaving enough length for the rubber hose to secure it against the injector tube when hose clamp is applied. Fingernails and copper are used to NOT scratch the valve on the injector.

2) slip hose over the wire and injector tube, secure the hose/wire to the injector with one, or two hose clamps.

3) fill hose with solvent, connect compressed air (low pressure first - to make sure hose is secure).

4) blow that solvent through - monitor the crap that comes out. Do it a dozen times if you have to.

5) remove the copper wire, and hook the hose to the inlet side of the injector. Fill the hose with solvent, blow that stuff through at 60 psi, and monitor the spray(fog) pattern. If not good - backflush again.

I'll try to do a sketch of the copper wire, I'll post it in a few minutes...

this some great info/tech tip. I'm gonna do a fuel pressure test on the pump output & the controlled pressure sides tonight and if there is sufficent flow/pressure I'll be sure to give this backflushing a shot. You're instruction fairly straight forward, so I don't think I'll have any issue trying it. I'll keep everyone posted of my results.