DIY - E28 533i Heater Valve fix

[BlackBMWs]

So, in swapping cars with my wife day a week or so ago, I noticed there was no heat or defroster.

O yeah, she mentioned that about two months ago. Now out of the comfort of my 540it, I figured it was time to fix her heater.

After taking a false side trip checking the thermostat (I hate Thermostat bolts...). I checked the Heater Valve. It was failing as folks had mentioned.

The net fix was to replace the heater valve on the engine firewall. The Heater Valve repair kit was about $40 or so. All you need is the repair kit, a 7mm 1/4" socket on a driver handle and a flat head screwdriver. It takes about 10 minutes, although I took a little longer to clean the parts up.

Optional: I used a Dremel with a wire brush end to clean up the rust off the washers and metal coil sleeve.

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Here's where the heater valve is located on the firewall.


Here's the heater valve mounted on the firewall. (This was an after shot. The brown stuff on the screws is Anti-seize) I used a 7mm 1/4" socket on a driver handle to remove the heater valve assembly from the firewall for easier access.


After removing the electrical connector and the four flat head screws, pull up on the square valve/coil assembly. Once removed, you can pull the valve away from the coil assembly. Note the position of the metal sleeve over the coil and three washers on the valve itself for correct reassembly. Note that the sleeve has three notches that are positioned towards the top of the valve assembly.

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Here's the failing valve and parts along with a new valve. The two heater valves are in the middle, the new one is on the left.


The valve slides into the center of a coil which is activated by the electrical connector on top of the coil assembly.

Here are the two valves side by side.


Here's the failing valve. Note that the rubber diaphragm on the failing valve is torn through.


Reassembly is valve, thin flat washer, wave washer, thick washer, Place the metal sleeve (with notches up) over the coil, then insert the valve and washer assembly into the coil/sleeve. The top of the valve will protrude through the coil assembly.

Hold the portion of the valve protruding up through the top of the coil assembly and insert the unit into the valve housing on the firewall. replace the four screws (I used anti-seize on the screws). Reattach the valve assembly with two screws to the firewall mount and replace the electrical connector.

If the system is topped and bled properly, you should now have heat again if the valve was the issue.

Enjoy a properly operating heater!

Cheers!

[John in VA]

Nice job! Thanks for taking the time to put this up.

[cyclists5er]

i was wondering how to do this. sounds like something to add to my weekend project list.

[Franchise]

thank you very much for this! i need to do mine as it constantly allows heat in!

[av8r4aa]

Just did this in my E24 //M6.
Cranks out the heat now !!!!!!!

[R12RT]

If you could post the part number for the rebuild kit, I think your nice write up will be complete! Nice work!

[John in VA]

Valve: 64-11-8-390-132
http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...64&fg=18&hl=55

[R12RT]

Thanks John!

[jimoreno]

Valve insert is no longer sold by the dealers and Bosch stopped making them. The only available one is made by MTC and is a piece of crap. I'm about to retrofit an E46 heater valve as a couple other have done. Go to myE28.com and search for Ë46 heater valve".

[BMWForDays]

You said at the end that you need to "If the system is topped and bled properly, you should now have heat again if the valve was the issue". I was wondering how you do that?