cv's are wasted. fml lol

[Haesman]

i'm sure someone here has done axle shafts on their shark or something like it. my CV blew out and i found it to be cheaper to buy whole axle shaft assemblies with the cvs already on than it was to buy just the cv lol. just trying to feel out what kind of job this is gonna be. any suggestions, comments? thanks!

[carsnplanes]

Would seem you have to take apart just as much to get to it so you might as well remove and replace the whole thing.
I haven't done one yet on an E24, but I'm sure you just drop the inner first then slide or press the stub axle out from the inside after removing the big axle nut on the outside. Probably easier said than done. I had a heck of a time with my E30 rear bearing replacement. Hope the E24 is easier.

[CW6er]

Do you have a Bentley?

The bolts for the CV joints are an internal metric hex head, so make sure you have the right size hex socket driver before starting.

The Bentley says it is as simple as unbolting the ends and removing the stub axles. Start at the inner flange and don't let the free end hang unsupported while you do the outer flange, it may stress and damage the CV joint. Likewise, wire up the inner end while you bolt on the outer flange of the new axle. It may take a soft mallet to knock loose the flanges.

The CV joints are identical and can be installed in either direction. Torque to 43 to 46 ft. lbs. (58-63 Nm)
_______________

Here is a cut & paste of some standard information I've gathered, maybe you have already seen it, but if not, it may be of use. In any case, bookmark them:

There are some things you will definitely need:

There are no aftermarket repair manuals for the Six, but it shares the same engine, drivetrain, suspension and many systems with the 5-Series so the Bentley BMW 5-Series '82 to '88 Manual (Green cover, $38 at Amazon.com) works very well. The "Driveablity" and the fuel injection sections alone are worth the price for diagnosing running problems.
http://www.amazon.com/BMW-5-Service-...1794459&sr=8-3


ETM (Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, aka "wiring diagram"). It is a very good manual, and everyone needs to have this. You really can't work on the car without it. Here is a Site with free downloads of ETM's (PDF files -13 to 20 MB) for various years ('82 to '01) and models of BMW's (3/5/6/7/8/Z):
http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm

Free Downloadable Factory Workshop Manual (U.S. Spec after '82 - e28 based, including the M6) and a separate Factory Specification Book (you need the Spec book because torques/specs are not included in the Workshop Manual, however, most torques are given in the Bentley manual). The Workshop Manual is not the greatest, but you can't beat the price, and it is invaluable for the things not covered in the Bentley. It basically just lists the steps for replacing parts, very little in the way of Troubleshooting or System Descriptions are included, so it is best to still get the Bentley, and use the Factory Manual for e24 specific things that aren't in the Bentley:
http://bigcoupe.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=53625

Online Factory Workshop Manual. Unlike the downloadable Manual above, it also covers the early, e12 based cars - 630 to 633 before '82, as well as, the later cars and the M6. It is also for U.S. Spec. :
http://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main/

Downloadable ZF 4HP-22/24 Automatic Transmission Overhaul Manual It has a fault chart, shows a complete overhaul and has the procedure for the "fix" for the "A" clutch pack:
http://bmwzone.ro/forums/post-a14824-.html
__

There is also an Online ETM for an '85. It has much clearer component location pictures then the downloaded ETM's:
http://www.stormpages.com/countchocula1/bmw/etm002.htm
(The component location listings and pictures at the end of the ETM are invaluable as you find your way around the new car)

A gold mine of articles and how-to's:
BigCoupeGroup Tech Library ;
Not to be confused with BigCoup.com, don't forget their Tech Articles also.

An online Vin Decoder:
http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi

Site showing BMW wheels with their data, pictures and the cars they came on: It's in German, but with the pictures, it doesn't matter much.
http://felgenkatalog.auto-treff.com/

And last but not least, there are 3 Online Parts Catalogs:

RealOEM.com, the original and I still find it the fastest to navigate if you are still on dialup:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/select.do...ies=E24&arch=1

BMWFans, more graphic, so slower for dialup, but if you click on the part number in the right hand column, it will show you all of the other cars the part was used on. Very handy for hunting at the salvage yard:
http://bmwfans.info/original/E24/Cou/

Maximillian Importing, they will sell you the part, but the price isn't much better then the dealer:
http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/

__

For parts, the lowest prices I've found on the net: check all 3 when looking for parts (they also make good references):

http://www.AutoHausAZ.com
http://www.Pelicanparts.com
http://www.BavAuto.com (Great Catalog, order it, it's free)

[bimmerjo]

Originally Posted by CW6er

The bolts for the CV joints are an internal metric hex head, so make sure you have the right size hex socket driver before starting.

+1!!!!!!! (they are 8mm) also, do NOOOT use tools from China or Korea, as their tolerances aren't always the best. (ask me how I know)

[Haesman]

believe it or not, i just finished replacing the passenger side axle shaft (they arrived just after i started this thread). Problem is I still have a wicked vibration when I take off from stoplights and under heavy acceleration. So now i have a new problem because i have no idea where it's coming from. I assumed it was the CV because the boot was torn to hell and i thought that crap had gotten in there.
On a happier note, i did take pics and could write up a DIY if anybody else wants to see. Takes about an hour to do, easy job.

[carsnplanes]

Originally Posted by Haesman

believe it or not, i just finished replacing the passenger side axle shaft (they arrived just after i started this thread). Problem is I still have a wicked vibration when I take off from stoplights and under heavy acceleration. So now i have a new problem because i have no idea where it's coming from. I assumed it was the CV because the boot was torn to hell and i thought that crap had gotten in there.
On a happier note, i did take pics and could write up a DIY if anybody else wants to see. Takes about an hour to do, easy job.

Sounds like the vibration is the classic center support bearing of the driveshaft.

[Haesman]

Originally Posted by carsnplanes

Sounds like the vibration is the classic center support bearing of the driveshaft.

you know what, that was my very first thought when i first felt it. that's under the big rearward exhaust heat shield right?

[carsnplanes]

Should be somwwhere between the two front seats.

[Haesman]

thanks! i'll be checking that out tomorrow lol

[CW6er]

Check all of the joints, especially the front rubber flex coupling (ref #1) if you have one:

If the image doesn't open

[DaHose]

To pull the halfshafts, you really should break the shock loose to get a little extra room, otherwise the new halfshaft might not slip in easily. Clean out the bolt holes well, BEFORE you try fitting in the allen socket and unscrewing. Use air or electric impact tools. You will need to re-use your CV end caps and do a good job sealing them up with RTV.

Jose

[bimmerjo]

Originally Posted by Haesman

believe it or not, i just finished replacing the passenger side axle shaft (they arrived just after i started this thread). Problem is I still have a wicked vibration when I take off from stoplights and under heavy acceleration. So now i have a new problem because i have no idea where it's coming from. I assumed it was the CV because the boot was torn to hell and i thought that crap had gotten in there.
On a happier note, i did take pics and could write up a DIY if anybody else wants to see. Takes about an hour to do, easy job.

I'm having the EXACT same problem as you, I've replaced drive shaft (with CSB), differential and CV joints....


(check your sub frame bushings )

[Haesman]

Originally Posted by bimmerjo

(check your sub frame bushings )

is that what your problem was? i've been told that mine are no good by a local BMW shop like 4 months ago, but there wasn't the vibration...maybe theyre further wasted now? lol

EDIT: well after careful consideration and finding a brand new subframe bushing kit for $30 they're already on order lol...they need to be done and for that short money it will get me one step closer ya know?

[bimmerjo]

Originally Posted by Haesman

is that what your problem was? i've been told that mine are no good by a local BMW shop like 4 months ago, but there wasn't the vibration...maybe theyre further wasted now? lol

EDIT: well after careful consideration and finding a brand new subframe bushing kit for $30 they're already on order lol...they need to be done and for that short money it will get me one step closer ya know?

when the car is on jacks and the diff unbolted(or even bolted for that matter) I can take the subframe and twist it with ease. It should be rock solid, and its just kinda dangles under there . I can't wait to get the bushings replaced.