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| 1992 - 1999 M3 (E36) (1992 - 1999) BMW's second generation M3, and the first M3 to feature BMW's classic inline six motor. Featuring 240hp (european models had a 286hp and 321hp), a slick shifting gear box, and near perfect weight balance, the E36 M3 was named Car & Driver's "Best Handling Car At Any Price." |
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#1
11-24-2009, 10:04 PM
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Changed my Clutch car runs like SH*$! Please help
Ok so i have been searching thru some threads but havent found anything solid.
I recently replaced the clutch and flywheel on my 99 M3 with a stage 3 clutch and a lightweight flywheel. I put everything back in correctly and started the car. It was very hard to start it stumbled and finally started poorly. The idle is steady but the car sounds rough. I drove it the car sounds like it has a misfire and it backfires at anything near 3k rpm in any gear. I know the car is in some kind of limp mode. I ran the codes and erased them but they came right back on when i started it. I had a check engine light and it read P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor A circuit malfunction P1423 Secondary Air Pump Bank 1 or 2 ( i mixed the two codes up when i wrote it down) P1421 Secondary Air Pump Bank 1 or 2 ( i mixed the two codes up when i wrote it down) So i read that the OBII cars dont have the crankshaft sensor in the front its on the driverside of the block toward the rear? Does anyone have a better description on the location. The only wire i had to disconnect while dropping the tranny was near the fill hole of the tranny but it was enver damaged. Anyone else experience these problems. Also i read there was a recall on this sensor i will call tmrw and find out from the dealer. Any help in getting this fixed ASAP is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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#2
11-24-2009, 10:24 PM
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crankshaft pos. sensor is on left side of the engine(drivers side) near where the transmission bolts up. either it somehow got damaged when you R&R'd the transmission or it coincidentally decided now was its time to die. either way youre probably going to end up replacing it.
deal with that first as the air pump faults wont affect your cranking/idle/driveability.
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98 Alpinweiss M3: Dinan CAI, HFM, Big Bore throttle kit, exhaust and Stage 4 software, short shifter, shiny long tube headers, koni, H&R HP#'s unknown...
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#4
11-24-2009, 11:24 PM
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I just stuck a flashlight on the starter and I noticed that the top starter bolt isn't all the way tight maybe screwed in crooked causing it to sit angled. So do you think the starter not sitting flush and at an angle is causing the crank sensor to trip out and throw the code. I'm gna redo the bolt on Friday when I have more time. Till then it's just gna sit in the garage.
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#5
11-25-2009, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
It would make it harder to start or not at all, if the fly teeth were missing or not meshing with the pinion. The sensor likely just decided to quit or you damaged it while working.
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Walk a mile in my shoes and you are a mile away in someone else's shoes.
Goodridge*UUC sways* Black TME's and mounts( switched from Red)* x-brace*brembo rotors*Zimmerman rear*Pagid*Kumho Ecsta SPT's* Roja Formula 7's (Bronze)* Stromung*Powdercoated AA DSB* OMP strut bar*GC RSM's* M3 alum/leather knob*JTD underpanel *Traffic PRO *Black hella Ellipsoids w/AE's * ACS Pedals*ACS handbrake*RE Octane SSK*Wheelskins Eurotones S/ Wheel Cover*Rieger roof spoiler-lost it on fwy  Stock A/B*URI CP*540 HFM*FMS 24 lb inj*Alum rad and some other stuff*Konis w/adj rr's*Vogtland springs ** Passport 8500(sold)*Passpprt 7500 (sold V1-1.8 with POP) Coming...nada BMWCCA-303681 Last edited by Balthazarr; 11-25-2009 at 03:16 PM..
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