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| Z3 (E36/7, E36/8) (1996 - 2002) In 1996 BMW added the Z3 to the lineup. First available only with the 1.9 liter engine, the Z3 went on to carry every 6 cylinder produced between 1996 and 2002. A fun, sporty little 2 seater came both in convertible and coupe form. Being a bit of a “parts bin” car, the Z3 is part E30, part E36, but all original. |
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#1
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My 97 Z3 was sitting for two weeks while my wife and I went to Myrtle Beach for a little R and R. When I returned and started my Z3, My Check engine light came on. We have had some rain (car was covered). I see no difference in her at all, but light has been on for 3 days. Any Ideas of just what my problem may be?? 70K miles on her . If this is OBD issue, does anyone know where to check for the malfuction in a 97 Z3 Thanks Wayne
Last edited by Breas2; 11-21-2009 at 09:18 AM.. Reason: OBD location |
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#2
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Very hard to tell. See if someone can read the codes. Autozone used to do it for free and maybe still does.
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![]() Mods: 6psi Supercharger kit; Rogue RSM's; Bilstein HD front and Sports rear (M springs rear); DINAN strut brace; Magnaflow exhaust; Stewart waterpump; Stoneguards, Glove box fix, M Shift knob; Aux input adapter; Mesh bumper grill; Projector Z II headlights (35W Xenon). Future: steering wheel leather, fix/replace rear window, sound upgrade, subframe bushings, alu radiator, wheels |
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#3
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Places like Aamco and Pep Boys will scan it for free, but only if they get to do the repairs. Also, check your battery cable for tightness and clean off you gas cap and retighten. My 330Ci used to throw a code when it rained and got cold. The gas cap would get loose and the rain/cold seemed to make it worse. A new cap and no more codes.
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Steve
'02 Z3 3.0i, '01 330 CI, '06 Honda VT1100, '66 Honda CL160 |
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#4
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I got the same thing when I left it for 3 weeks? but it has a vacuum leak now so -_-
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#5
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The Check Engine light is not going to automatically turn itself off. So you need to find a reset tool.
Also, I'd recommend to go ahead and do the easy, cheap "fixes": 1 - a bottle of BMW Fuel System Cleaner (relabeled Chevron Techron Fuel System Cleaner) 2 - clean the MAF. http://www.the-mod-squad.org/amsoil/throttlebody.htm Even if these fixes don't fix the problem, the car will still run better. A Search will turn up loads more info on both fixes. |
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#6
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My check engine light came on last week on saturday. Since my regular shop was closed sa, su and mo due to holidays and I didn't have a trip planned, I waited till tuesday to bring it in and get the code read. Monday morning came and I have not seen the check engine light since.
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#7
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![]() Some "lesser" faults will allow the light to clear itself, as long as the fault is no longer present, and you've driven enough drive cycles. But it will still be stored in memory.
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#8
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Quote:
Quote:
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Steve
'02 Z3 3.0i, '01 330 CI, '06 Honda VT1100, '66 Honda CL160 Last edited by 2002Z3; 11-20-2009 at 06:49 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#9
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The code WILL come back if the problem is not corrected. In most cases, that only happens with the gas cap.
I had a small vacuum leak and the light would go out after a while too. However, since the problem was not fixed, it would come back on eventually.
__________________
![]() Mods: 6psi Supercharger kit; Rogue RSM's; Bilstein HD front and Sports rear (M springs rear); DINAN strut brace; Magnaflow exhaust; Stewart waterpump; Stoneguards, Glove box fix, M Shift knob; Aux input adapter; Mesh bumper grill; Projector Z II headlights (35W Xenon). Future: steering wheel leather, fix/replace rear window, sound upgrade, subframe bushings, alu radiator, wheels |
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#10
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Sorry, I couldn't resist doing this again ![]()
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Steve
'02 Z3 3.0i, '01 330 CI, '06 Honda VT1100, '66 Honda CL160 |
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#11
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![]() Mods: 6psi Supercharger kit; Rogue RSM's; Bilstein HD front and Sports rear (M springs rear); DINAN strut brace; Magnaflow exhaust; Stewart waterpump; Stoneguards, Glove box fix, M Shift knob; Aux input adapter; Mesh bumper grill; Projector Z II headlights (35W Xenon). Future: steering wheel leather, fix/replace rear window, sound upgrade, subframe bushings, alu radiator, wheels |
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#12
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Yeah, like they said....
![]() Different codes have different levels of turning the light on. This is both on how many times the fault is seen before setting the code/light, and how many passed tests it takes before unsetting the light. And how many more before unsetting the code. Then add in that not all tests are run continuously. Indeed, some take very particular parameters for the test to be run (like evap). This is why it is not unusual to clear a code, and it takes weeks to turn the light back on... even though the fault is constant (like a gas cap). Some manufacturers are very good about publishing the exact parameters, tests, and cycles for setting and unsetting codes. Alas, BMW is not one of them.
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![]() /.randy |
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#13
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Like I said (you saw what I did there, ey, ey,
) it is possible the light goes off automatically. That, ofcourse, does not mean it can't come on again.In my case, I drove to the local taco place on friday night (yeah yeah, how stereotypical, but that was the reality of things), park the car, all is fine. Then after eating my fine meat packed tortillas, I started the car and the light came on. Two days later (after hardly any driving), it's off. I'll check the fuel cap, for some reason gas station assisants don't get the Z3's fuel cap (happened before).
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#14
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#15
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OK, the CEL came back on again and brought it to the shop. Light went off when I got there, but they read the stored code and it's the camshaft sensor.
Would be no big deal if I could get one at a reasonable price, but I've gotten quotes at around $200 for a piece that costs $100 in the US. So now I have the choice of saving $100 and not drive the Z for all of december (which is beach month here) or pony up double price. I hate knowing I'm getting screwed.
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#16
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Check air filter box very carefully on 96 Z3 & possibly later models
Our check engine light came on. Started checking everything mentioned in this forum, which was, by the way, very helpful. Thank you to everyone of you!!!! In addition, we found another problem that may help someone else too. While removing the air filter box we also inspected it. We removed the air filter and down deep in all the crevices was black powder. We pounded the filter on the concrete and black powder went everywhere. We wondered where the powder came from and looked inside the air filter box. The inside of the box was evidently lined from top to bottom with a black foam when it was manufactured. The foam was all disintegrating. We pulled off a little chunk and it disintegrated into black powder in our hand. We got the shop vac and vacuumed all the foam out completely. It appeared as though it had just started falling apart, so hopefully we found it in time. A friend turned the check engine light off for us and so far, after about 2 weeks, it hasn't come back on.
Does anyone know what that foam was for???? |
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