70k suspension wear question [e46]

[driver145]

Hey guys,

Just wondering what all I should be replacing at this point in time. I drive my car somewhere between spirited and like I stole it (had it for 1.5 years and about 14k miles) but don't think the guy before me drove it hard at all. Had the front right wheel bearing go and just had it replaced. The left wheel has some play in it with a clunking sound. Figured I would have the shop replace that wheel bearing too (I know should be done as a pair anyhow). Don't know if that will fix the clunk/play problem or not but figured I should replace the tie rods and CABs as well, as I am going to do about 10 autocross events this year (and keep diving it the way I do now on a daily basis). I will also be maxing out stock camber up front and getting an alignment. I am staying with stock parts because I wan't to stay in D stock class. Is there anything else I will probably need to be replacing in the next year that I can do while I have the car up?

thanks

[ZHP]

70k? Figure shocks/struts and their respective mounts, control arms, control arm bushings, RTABs. I would only do tie rod ends if needed. I would also inspect the rear diff bushing and check for cracks/tears at the subframe mounts.

[beenyweenies]

Originally Posted by driver145

Hey guys,

Just wondering what all I should be replacing at this point in time. I drive my car somewhere between spirited and like I stole it (had it for 1.5 years and about 14k miles) but don't think the guy before me drove it hard at all. Had the front right wheel bearing go and just had it replaced. The left wheel has some play in it with a clunking sound. Figured I would have the shop replace that wheel bearing too (I know should be done as a pair anyhow). Don't know if that will fix the clunk/play problem or not but figured I should replace the tie rods and CABs as well, as I am going to do about 10 autocross events this year (and keep diving it the way I do now on a daily basis). I will also be maxing out stock camber up front and getting an alignment. I am staying with stock parts because I wan't to stay in D stock class. Is there anything else I will probably need to be replacing in the next year that I can do while I have the car up?

thanks

You probably want to define that clunking sound a little more specifically (when/why it happens, type of sound etc.) so that someone can help you really pinpoint it. It sounds to me like CABs, but may even be sway bar end link bushings depending on when and how you hear the noise. Of course, I'm no expert.

Aside from suspension, you probably already know this but I would definitely consider a full cooling system replacement, full-car lubricant refresh (tranny, oil, coolant, diff etc.), VANOS seals, fuel filter, possibly your plugs (couldn't hurt) and possibly a few gaskets that commonly get crusty after 70K.

[driver145]

Originally Posted by beenyweenies

You probably want to define that clunking sound a little more specifically (when/why it happens, type of sound etc.) so that someone can help you really pinpoint it. It sounds to me like CABs, but may even be sway bar end link bushings depending on when and how you hear the noise. Of course, I'm no expert.

Aside from suspension, you probably already know this but I would definitely consider a full cooling system replacement, full-car lubricant refresh (tranny, oil, coolant, diff etc.), VANOS seals, fuel filter, possibly your plugs (couldn't hurt) and possibly a few gaskets that commonly get crusty after 70K.

I had inspection II done after I bought the car around 60k. I have noticed a ticking from the engine (started around 65k)... nothing seems to help... cannot figure out what it is. My honda used to do the same thing. It comes from the drivers side of the engine. Also, I seems to be leaking around the front passenger side bolt, but not enough to need topping off between oil changes.

The wheel/suspension noise is noticable when I am going slow and jab the brakes or when I am stopped and jerk the wheel back and forth quickly. Everything at speed feels fine. Corners fine too. I jacked it up but couldn't tell exactly where it was. No matter what though, I need to replace the bearing, so I figure I will no more after that.

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About shocks and springs, they seem to rebound and absorb shock fine right now and I have heard they should last over 100k. I figure I will see how I do in autocross and see if I want to change my setup before I replace them with more stock stuff. Also, do I really need to replace the CAs if the bushings are still okay and they aren't bent?

[beenyweenies]

Originally Posted by driver145

The wheel/suspension noise is noticable when I am going slow and jab the brakes or when I am stopped and jerk the wheel back and forth quickly.

Watch the video below to determine if it's your CABs:

YouTube

YouTube

[ZHP]

Originally Posted by driver145

About shocks and springs, they seem to rebound and absorb shock fine right now and I have heard they should last over 100k. I figure I will see how I do in autocross and see if I want to change my setup before I replace them with more stock stuff. Also, do I really need to replace the CAs if the bushings are still okay and they aren't bent?

Expect 60-80k on stock dampers. My rears were completely blown by 70k. I'd wager that even if yours seem fine now, you would notice a substantial improvement with fresh dampers. Shouldn't need to replace the springs unless they break, which isn't too uncommon of the rear springs on the earlier e46 cars.

You replace control arms because the ball joints go bad and are integral to the arm and can't be replaced separately. Except on the Performance Package control arms, BMW uses rubber in the ball joint for added comfort/isolation. The rubber part eventually wears out leading to sloppy handling. Also keep in mind that the stock control arm bushings can't be reused once they've been installed. If you replace them now and then decide to replace the arms in 3 months, you need to replace the bushings yet again. If you're sticking with stock parts, I always recommend replacing the arms and bushings together.

[driver145]

Damn... I am starting to think I might say screw stock class. If I am going to be replacing so much, why not upgrade? Then again, that will probably hurt resale value...

[sockethead]

Originally Posted by ZHP

Expect 60-80k on stock dampers. My rears were completely blown by 70k.

Mine were shot at 60k.... I suspect that they were bad before that due to uneven tire wear that went away after I replaced them

[driver145]

Yep.... CABs are shot. I did the little drive test but wanted to verify it (roommate wasn't great at brake-jabbing). Jacked up the car and had him kick the tire while watching the CA... and every time it would jab back into the socket where the CAB is.

How bad is it to drive like this? I am going to replace the CA and bushing anyhow... I know its not great performance wise... but any real risk here?

[sockethead]

Originally Posted by driver145

Yep.... CABs are shot. I did the little drive test but wanted to verify it (roommate wasn't great at brake-jabbing). Jacked up the car and had him kick the tire while watching the CA... and every time it would jab back into the socket where the CAB is.

How bad is it to drive like this? I am going to replace the CA and bushing anyhow... I know its not great performance wise... but any real risk here?

No risk, just the annoyance of a wandering front end, etc.

[beenyweenies]

Originally Posted by driver145

Yep.... CABs are shot. I did the little drive test but wanted to verify it (roommate wasn't great at brake-jabbing). Jacked up the car and had him kick the tire while watching the CA... and every time it would jab back into the socket where the CAB is.

How bad is it to drive like this? I am going to replace the CA and bushing anyhow... I know its not great performance wise... but any real risk here?

I suppose the only real risk is if it impairs your driving ability in any way. I would imagine that it could also cause undue wear on other related parts, but that's an assumption on my part. Not a real helpful reply, but I would just suggest you deal with it as soon as your wallet allows!

[driver145]

Thanks guys!