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#1
11-07-2009, 10:21 PM
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Working on my Carrier Bearing / Drive Shaft Support / Center Support Bearing CSB
Different people call it different names, but the BMW crowd seems to favor CSB. Anyway, I currently have the driver side exhaust and the heat shield removed which leaves the CSB exposed. Thankfully, mine was shot. Why thankfully? It is HUGE pain to get that far and I'd be letdown if I went through all the work of unbolting the exhaust only to find a perfectly good CSB.
My symptoms: -slight knocking sound coming from the floor while accelerating in first and second gear -vibrating rear view mirror & passenger seat while under acceleration on the highway -weird squealing noises under the car above 30 mph in cold weather Thoughts so far: -The exhaust on M62s is a royal PITA. I have the style with with two pipes on each side of the motor, each with two bolts for eight bolts total. Due to the age and mileage of the car, the bolts were rusted solid (and it was apparent the exhaust was dropped at least once in the past, so it could be even worse  ). Liquid wrench didn't work, PB Blaster didn't work, heat (propane torch) didn't work, nothing worked... I did succeed in snapping one of the bolts though. So I broke out the dremel and just cut the damn things off. If your bolts are badly rusted, I highly suggest cutting them and not wasting your time trying to loosen them. What makes the M62 a huge PITA is that access to one of the bolts is extremely limited. Two bolts have great access (it looks like the M62TU allows easy access to all the bolts), one bolt has adequate access, and one on the inside has extremely limited access. I was able to get my dremel in enough to cut a groove across this last nut/bolt then chisel off the nut. Once the bolts are taken care of, the exhaust drops down pretty easily (make sure you disconnect your O2 sensors!). BTW, I pulled an M42 out of an e30 and it wasn't as hard as removing the exhaust on my car! More time consuming, yes, but not as hard.-My car has 154k miles on the clock and I suspect this is the original CSB. It had signs of going bad when I bought the car at 135k miles so it probably needs to be replaced before then; mine isn't chewed up so much as sagging from gravity. I think it's failing purely due to age - almost all the miles on my car are highway. -I thought I could get away with only one side of the exhaust removed, but both sides should come out so the heat shield can be fitted. I was able to get the shield out with the passenger side exhaust still in place by prying the exhaust down. There's not much room to work with and if you can drop the exhaust without much trouble, do it.
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 Mods: 3.15 diff, high performance coil packs, 17x9" rear wheels, clear tails, K40 stealthed radar detector, 3" exhaust, Thrush 17661 muffler
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#2
11-07-2009, 10:23 PM
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been there done that, I feel your pain.
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#3
11-07-2009, 10:29 PM
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What mileage did you do it at and what prompted you to replace it?
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Mods: 3.15 diff, high performance coil packs, 17x9" rear wheels, clear tails, K40 stealthed radar detector, 3" exhaust, Thrush 17661 muffler
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#4
11-07-2009, 10:41 PM
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I did it at about 160k. I replaced the entire driveshaft because my CV joint was toast.
the only way I knew my CV joint was toast was because a week prior I took everything apart assuming it was the center bearing, it wasn't.... worst job ever and I did it twice, wtf. I had a clunking noise on decel. I ended up buying a remain driveshaft which came with a new center bearing and cv joint for about 200.
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#5
11-09-2009, 02:45 PM
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Ok, I'm almost done. The exhaust is definitely the hardest part by far. You only need to drop 3 bolts from the front of the driveshaft/guibo which are tight, but easily broken with some leverage (I put my feet on the wrench and pushed with my legs). All six nuts at the rear of the driveshaft need to come off, but they aren't torqued nearly as tight and are easily removed. Then you just need to remove the two nuts on the CSB and drop the driveshaft - not at hard at all. Once the driveshaft is out, there's an 18mm bolt accessible from inside the U-joint that needs to be removed and is VERY tight. I removed that by placing a chisel (a screwdriver would also work) in the U-joint and then pounding on an 18mm box wrench with a rubber mallet. Make SURE you mark the two halves of the driveshaft accurately or the driveshaft will likely vibrate when you get everything back together. Pull it apart, removed the old CSB (mine practically fell off) and then you're left with the bearing itself. I removed it by using a Dremel with a cut-off wheel to cut through the outer bearing shell, removing that, and then carefully cutting through the inner shell and chiselling it off. The new CSB was easy to install (I was told a press was needed, but it is not). I started by placing the new CSB on in the correct orientation, then I placed the mostly intact inner shell from the old bearing over the new CSB. I used a straight head screwdriver and the rubber mallet to pount on alternating sides of the old bearing shell until the new CSB was fully pressed on. The driveshaft then slides back together and the 18mm bolt needs to be retightened. After all this, reinstall the driveshaft and loosely install the CSB. Once everything is in place, slide the CSB toward the front of the car about 2mm and tighten the nuts. The exhuast then goes back on and you're done!
A couple more notes: -The exhuast does not need to be fully dropped. I completed the job with the rear can still in its hangar and the Y resonator dropped. I also left the passenger side catalyst converter section bolted up. It's tight to get the heat shield in and out, but possible. -With the driveshaft out, access to the shifter is open. This is the time to rebuild the shift linkage. I didn't have the parts to do so, but my sorely needs a rebuild  -This is also the time to replace the guibo. Mine looked fine but when I pulled it, it was date stamped 1996 so it's probably original to the car! I guess I'll be replacing that in the near future although it still looks fine to me? -The exhaust is a royal PITA!
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Mods: 3.15 diff, high performance coil packs, 17x9" rear wheels, clear tails, K40 stealthed radar detector, 3" exhaust, Thrush 17661 muffler
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#6
11-09-2009, 03:29 PM
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Exhaust is the worst part about working under these cars. I know the bolt you speak of. Lucky for me, the dealership dealt with it before I did (when they replaced my tranny). The bolts were still hard to pull for me, until I put a 1/2" impact on them. I replaced all the bolts/nuts with new ones.
When my CSB failed, the rubber was ripped 85% of the way around it. It was more than a slight knocking noise in 1st and 2nd... scared teh hell outta me!
__________________
 pf thrust bushings, cdv delete, koni fsds, h&r 50464 springs, eibach sways, rp synchromax, 545 shifter, stoptech ss brake lines, eagle F1 asymmetrical tires, lots of miles..
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#7
11-09-2009, 06:23 PM
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I too underwent this voyage. I did it around 135k and it is a PITA. I actually had to do it twice as well. Second time I didnt' remove the front area of the exhaust and just removed the rear near the muffler and y-resonator (I think). I had enough access to adjust my CSB. First time I did it I replaced the tranny mounts and Guibo. For the 18mm bolt I got a 18mm ratcheting flat wrench from my local auto store that worked great. Once you put it on the head of the bolt you don't need to remove it to keep loosening it or tightening. I think it was around $15 but it saved me some time and effort and I can use it on my lower control arms and pinch bolt....
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#8
11-09-2009, 06:40 PM
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For the 18mm bolt I had a second person stand on the shaft partially, fit the box end wrench in, bent the universal over so that it locked, and turned the bolt out. Not the easiest way, but it saved buying that ratcheting wrench... sometime ill get a set of those!
pics for those who aren't sure what this job looks like:      DO NOT USE A PENNY UNDER THE GEAR PULLER. THIS WAS A TERRIBLE IDEA. USE SOMETHING HARDER! anyways, thats what the job looks like once you have the exhaust and driveshaft out.
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pf thrust bushings, cdv delete, koni fsds, h&r 50464 springs, eibach sways, rp synchromax, 545 shifter, stoptech ss brake lines, eagle F1 asymmetrical tires, lots of miles..
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#9
11-10-2009, 05:42 PM
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Alright, the car's back on the road and the vibration is gone. I need a new exhaust gasket though... it sounds like a harley got it on with a farm tractor and my car was the bastard child.
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Mods: 3.15 diff, high performance coil packs, 17x9" rear wheels, clear tails, K40 stealthed radar detector, 3" exhaust, Thrush 17661 muffler
Last edited by Cyrix2k; 11-17-2009 at 01:40 PM..
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#11
12-30-2009, 08:22 PM
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if you find a shop with a drive shaft balancer, you can have them replace just the u-joint. I don't know who has the best price on a reman. unit though.
__________________
Mods: 3.15 diff, high performance coil packs, 17x9" rear wheels, clear tails, K40 stealthed radar detector, 3" exhaust, Thrush 17661 muffler
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#12
12-30-2009, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
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#13
12-30-2009, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
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