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| Z3 (E36/7, E36/8) (1996 - 2002) In 1996 BMW added the Z3 to the lineup. First available only with the 1.9 liter engine, the Z3 went on to carry every 6 cylinder produced between 1996 and 2002. A fun, sporty little 2 seater came both in convertible and coupe form. Being a bit of a “parts bin” car, the Z3 is part E30, part E36, but all original. |
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#1
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strone guards and paint under them ...
Hello
I've been thinking if stoneguards needs to be removed every time we wash car or not ? Doesn't the paint under them collect "permanent" (hard to remove) dirt when we ride with stone guards mounted in wet, dirty day or not ? I just ask if paint under them is 100% safe .Thanks for tips ! Regards Peter
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1332236 - mine Z3 gallery
WTB : Headlights washing kit for Z3 (at least nozzles). For sale : http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1345486 - modded rear subframe(camber/toe kit welded) |
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#3
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I do not know why people like them I have tried them a couple times and really do not like the look. I actually reurned a pair and tossed the 2nd pair. On my old Z I finally went with the 3m clear product. On my M I use nothing except TLC and wax.
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#4
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I like the looks, but Blade is right, you need to take 'em off once in a while and give a good coat of wax - both paint and guards too.
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E36/8 2000 M Coupe Cosmos Black/Black
Shark, Conforti CAI, B&B Exhaust, H&R, Bilstein, IE Green, UUC TME Red/Caps, WSM, Swapped Front Hats, Ice>Link. ================================================== =======================
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#6
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They rot & fall apart after 1 or 2 seasons. I went with anti sail guards behind all wheels (spacers pushed tires out). The fronts are great but the rears are not for all tastes. I recently repainted mine and they were chewed up inside - protected paint from sand & rocks. I vote for anti sail/mud guards.
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#7
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Quote:
For me those stoneguards look quite fine and nice, but clear foil is also good idea for sure.
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http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1332236 - mine Z3 gallery
WTB : Headlights washing kit for Z3 (at least nozzles). For sale : http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1345486 - modded rear subframe(camber/toe kit welded) |
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#8
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It won't hurt. Takes a second to apply-reapply anyway. Might as well give the guards a quick wash too.
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#11
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Ditto...remove and wash both sides of the guards. Let them dry before you put them back on. You will find that if you leave them on for a while, it will leave a "ring" around the guard.
I like mine on and it sets off the rear fenders. Especially when I look at if from the side. (black guards on artic silver)..I have had 3M fender protectors before on other cars and they would yellow with age. Just my 2 cents worth.
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Strong Front Strut/Stewart Water Pump/Aluminum Thermostat Housing/Leather Z armrest/DICE Ipod Adapter/Sachs clutch/Rogue RSM/Bilstien HD Shocks/SS Brakelines/UCC Big Boy Clutch Stop/Shark Seat Bushings/AMSoil Fluids/SS Clutch line with CVD/Bosch spark plugs/ Bosch ICON wiper blades/OEM Mud Flaps/Black Stoneguards/BMW Roof Rack
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#12
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I have had my guards for 4 years or so. No paint damage at all, and the guards still look almost as good as i bought them. I remove mine every time i wash the car, and I thoroughly wipe off the front and back of the guards and keep a good coat of wax under them. I also make sure to have a good coat of wax on the whole area where they come in contact with the paint
No problems or complaints. they had taken a few hits from stuff flung from the front tires and are worth having IMO
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![]() BF.c member 39,803 Last edited by Jonny Z3; 11-07-2009 at 11:33 PM.. |
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#13
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there have been a few reports of paint "fogging" after leaving the guards on in the rain.
It's almost impossible to wash the car and not take them off. Just to try it, next time you've driven the car a few hundred miles, wash the car without removing them and then remove them. I'm pretty sure that the black outline that you see will answer your question.
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![]() TC Kline S/A Coilovers | Sharked | Turner Slotted Rotors | Axxis Ultimate Pads | SS Front Strut | IE Subframe Bushings | IE Rear Toe/Camber Kit Whalen Shift Machine | Stygar Clutch Pedal | CDV Delete | LeatherZ Armrest | Whalen seat bushings | Z3Solutions Windblocker | Shift Pin fix |
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#14
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In my opinion, any time they get wet, you should take them off and let them completely dry before putting them back on.
I don't drive my car when its raining, so I take them off to wash the car, let them dry, then put them back on later. I also wax the back of them and the car once in a while. |
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#15
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#16
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I remove and wash them each time I wash the car. It only takes a couple of extra minutes to do it. Also wax the inside of them on a regular basis. I can see that they are definitely much easier to use in a dry climate.
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![]() Mods: 6psi Supercharger kit; Rogue RSM's; Bilstein HD front and Sports rear (M springs rear); DINAN strut brace; Magnaflow exhaust; Stewart waterpump; Stoneguards, Glove box fix, M Shift knob; Aux input adapter; Mesh bumper grill; Projector Z II headlights (35W Xenon). Future: steering wheel leather, fix/replace rear window, sound upgrade, subframe bushings, alu radiator, wheels |
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#18
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I went with pre cut 3M clear bra for the fenders instead. It was part of a full body M Roadster kit, guy was selling just the new fenders for $25.
I figured this was a better bet than the stone guards which I had been on the fence about. Seeing the maintenance needed with them, I am glad I went with the 3M.
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