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| Z3 (E36/7, E36/8) (1996 - 2002) In 1996 BMW added the Z3 to the lineup. First available only with the 1.9 liter engine, the Z3 went on to carry every 6 cylinder produced between 1996 and 2002. A fun, sporty little 2 seater came both in convertible and coupe form. Being a bit of a “parts bin” car, the Z3 is part E30, part E36, but all original. |
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#1
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suspension shopping list complete?
I'm getting close to ordering TCK S/A's, Rogue RSM's, and IE subframe bushings. Am I missing anything? From everything I've read, this seems to be a good place to start, but don't want to miss anything important either. Also...any valid suggestions to recommend as alternates to the above are welcome too. Car has 39k and I won't ever track or even auto-x...for some backround info. Thanks in advance!
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pimpin' ain't easy.
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#2
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You may consider the IE Rear camber/toe kit. The negative camber will increase after lowering. Are you going with standard rear springs or shorties? You'll need height adjusters with the shorties
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#4
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read a lot about vorshlag plates. i'll probably look into those, since it doesn't look like they're included w/ the tck kit. besides height adjustment, i'm really looking to 'set up and leave it alone' i'm hoping that i can expect that with wheel alignment and such.
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pimpin' ain't easy.
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#5
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Car is low mileage, but since you are in there... why not get a set of OE RTABs to swap out while you have everything apart?
and +1 on vorshlag plates.
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![]() I miss my coupe.. WTB M Mirrors, M front bumper, Style 5 wheels... IF you need a Z3 glove box fix... PM me.
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#6
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Call Pete at TCK in Ohio. He will get you on the right path based on your needs. Camber plates are rarely needed on the street. If you are that aggressive, simply swapping hats will likely be enough. Even though you only have 39K, may want to think about replacing TA and LCA bushings. Age is going to catch up to them soon and may as well get everything in shape all at once. The rear camber kit is one of those things that may or may not be needed. Wheel width, offsets, driving style and a few other things come to mind when the subject of rear camber comes up. They are kind of a pain to set up and many shops will cut corners when aligning. So unless you have a good trusted alignment shop, the rear kit can go to waste.
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Last edited by PbFut; 11-08-2009 at 12:56 AM.. |
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#7
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Why the need for the IE rear camber kit? As the OP doesn't track/auto-x, no need to increase negative rear camber. As for decreasing rear camber, for a 9 or 10 year car with 39k, I doubt tire life is a major concern.
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Actually I just upgraded to this system (except I went with Rogue rsm's) As for spring rates, I found this thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1326920 very useful. I followed fmcfad01 advice and went with 450/500 springs on my daily driver. Very happy. Last edited by dougmcintyre; 11-08-2009 at 08:27 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost |
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#8
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If you want to slam the coupe you may want to go with shorty rear springs and adjustable perch, but the regular TCK springs provide a nice balance between ride height, performance and looks. M suspension's rear geometry is pretty flexible so no worries on excessive camber. Get an alignment done after installation and remember only the front toe is adjustable, everything else isn't. If rear toe and camber are outside factory ranges then most likely you'll need to replace the worn OE trailing arm bushings with OE again. Also if you get 500 lb rear springs from TCK, it's not necessary to replace OE sf bushing with stiff IE ones. Plenty of rear end control with TCK coilovers on street and track. I can see how IE bushings help the wobbly rear end on roadsters but a M coupe with TCK suspension is about the best money you can spend to gain better handling and a nice ride to boot. |
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#9
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hmmm...varying opinions, more to think about...
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__________________
pimpin' ain't easy.
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