Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum

Go Back   Bimmerforums - The Ultimate BMW Forum > Bimmerforums - BMW Car/Model Specific > Z (Roadsters & Coupes) > Z3 (E36/7, E36/8)

Z3 (E36/7, E36/8) (1996 - 2002) In 1996 BMW added the Z3 to the lineup. First available only with the 1.9 liter engine, the Z3 went on to carry every 6 cylinder produced between 1996 and 2002. A fun, sporty little 2 seater came both in convertible and coupe form. Being a bit of a “parts bin” car, the Z3 is part E30, part E36, but all original.

Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old 11-07-2009, 02:25 PM
coupe du jour's Avatar
coupe du jour coupe du jour is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Akron, PA
Cars: 00 Dinan M Cpe, 99 C
Posts: 427
iTrader: (0)
suspension shopping list complete?

I'm getting close to ordering TCK S/A's, Rogue RSM's, and IE subframe bushings. Am I missing anything? From everything I've read, this seems to be a good place to start, but don't want to miss anything important either. Also...any valid suggestions to recommend as alternates to the above are welcome too. Car has 39k and I won't ever track or even auto-x...for some backround info. Thanks in advance!
__________________
pimpin' ain't easy.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-07-2009, 02:31 PM
KBH22102's Avatar
KBH22102 KBH22102 is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: McLean, VA
Cars: 97 Roady, 02 M Coupe
Posts: 1,385
iTrader: (1)
You may consider the IE Rear camber/toe kit. The negative camber will increase after lowering. Are you going with standard rear springs or shorties? You'll need height adjusters with the shorties
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-07-2009, 02:52 PM
cafeconleche cafeconleche is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: CALIFORNIA
Cars: 89 NISSAN PATHFINDER
Posts: 113
iTrader: (0)
camber plates, if they arent included with the coilovers
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-08-2009, 12:37 AM
coupe du jour's Avatar
coupe du jour coupe du jour is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Akron, PA
Cars: 00 Dinan M Cpe, 99 C
Posts: 427
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by KBH22102 View Post
You may consider the IE Rear camber/toe kit. The negative camber will increase after lowering. Are you going with standard rear springs or shorties? You'll need height adjusters with the shorties
i was going to go w/ the tck 'true match' coilovers...but didn't see a spring choice. they have height adjusters...so i'm guessing shorties?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cafeconleche View Post
camber plates, if they arent included with the coilovers
read a lot about vorshlag plates. i'll probably look into those, since it doesn't look like they're included w/ the tck kit. besides height adjustment, i'm really looking to 'set up and leave it alone' i'm hoping that i can expect that with wheel alignment and such.
__________________
pimpin' ain't easy.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-08-2009, 12:50 AM
Sky1Z3 Sky1Z3 is offline
has a coupe in a bag
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Guam
Cars: 368,FX35,ZX10,CBR900
Posts: 1,768
iTrader: (1)
Car is low mileage, but since you are in there... why not get a set of OE RTABs to swap out while you have everything apart?

and +1 on vorshlag plates.
__________________

I miss my coupe.. WTB M Mirrors, M front bumper, Style 5 wheels... IF you need a Z3 glove box fix... PM me.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-08-2009, 12:51 AM
PbFut PbFut is offline
Old Guy's Rule
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Temecula Ca.
Cars: 86 325es, 99 M Coupe, 92 850i, 06 Trailblazer SS
Posts: 2,274
iTrader: (0)
Call Pete at TCK in Ohio. He will get you on the right path based on your needs. Camber plates are rarely needed on the street. If you are that aggressive, simply swapping hats will likely be enough. Even though you only have 39K, may want to think about replacing TA and LCA bushings. Age is going to catch up to them soon and may as well get everything in shape all at once. The rear camber kit is one of those things that may or may not be needed. Wheel width, offsets, driving style and a few other things come to mind when the subject of rear camber comes up. They are kind of a pain to set up and many shops will cut corners when aligning. So unless you have a good trusted alignment shop, the rear kit can go to waste.

Last edited by PbFut; 11-08-2009 at 12:56 AM..
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-08-2009, 07:57 AM
dougmcintyre dougmcintyre is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Chapel Hill, NC
Cars: 2000 M Coupe, 1997 3
Posts: 169
iTrader: (0)
Why the need for the IE rear camber kit? As the OP doesn't track/auto-x, no need to increase negative rear camber. As for decreasing rear camber, for a 9 or 10 year car with 39k, I doubt tire life is a major concern.

Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe du jour View Post
i was going to go w/ the tck 'true match' coilovers...but didn't see a spring choice. they have height adjusters...so i'm guessing shorties?
Check out http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/...t=products.asp

Actually I just upgraded to this system (except I went with Rogue rsm's)

As for spring rates, I found this thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1326920 very useful. I followed fmcfad01 advice and went with 450/500 springs on my daily driver. Very happy.

Last edited by dougmcintyre; 11-08-2009 at 08:27 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-08-2009, 10:11 AM
BenH BenH is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: USA
Cars: '99 E36/8, '06 E91
Posts: 1,113
iTrader: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by coupe du jour View Post
I'm getting close to ordering TCK S/A's, Rogue RSM's, and IE subframe bushings. Am I missing anything? From everything I've read, this seems to be a good place to start, but don't want to miss anything important either. Also...any valid suggestions to recommend as alternates to the above are welcome too. Car has 39k and I won't ever track or even auto-x...for some backround info. Thanks in advance!
You'll all set If you want to slam the coupe you may want to go with shorty rear springs and adjustable perch, but the regular TCK springs provide a nice balance between ride height, performance and looks. M suspension's rear geometry is pretty flexible so no worries on excessive camber. Get an alignment done after installation and remember only the front toe is adjustable, everything else isn't. If rear toe and camber are outside factory ranges then most likely you'll need to replace the worn OE trailing arm bushings with OE again. Also if you get 500 lb rear springs from TCK, it's not necessary to replace OE sf bushing with stiff IE ones. Plenty of rear end control with TCK coilovers on street and track. I can see how IE bushings help the wobbly rear end on roadsters but a M coupe with TCK suspension is about the best money you can spend to gain better handling and a nice ride to boot.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-08-2009, 11:24 AM
coupe du jour's Avatar
coupe du jour coupe du jour is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Akron, PA
Cars: 00 Dinan M Cpe, 99 C
Posts: 427
iTrader: (0)
hmmm...varying opinions, more to think about...


Quote:
Originally Posted by PbFut View Post
Call Pete at TCK in Ohio. He will get you on the right path based on your needs. Camber plates are rarely needed on the street. If you are that aggressive, simply swapping hats will likely be enough. Even though you only have 39K, may want to think about replacing TA and LCA bushings. Age is going to catch up to them soon and may as well get everything in shape all at once. The rear camber kit is one of those things that may or may not be needed. Wheel width, offsets, driving style and a few other things come to mind when the subject of rear camber comes up. They are kind of a pain to set up and many shops will cut corners when aligning. So unless you have a good trusted alignment shop, the rear kit can go to waste.
i'll be calling him asap...and looking into replacing these other bushings as well. thank you!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by dougmcintyre View Post
Why the need for the IE rear camber kit? As the OP doesn't track/auto-x, no need to increase negative rear camber. As for decreasing rear camber, for a 9 or 10 year car with 39k, I doubt tire life is a major concern.



Check out http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/...t=products.asp

Actually I just upgraded to this system (except I went with Rogue rsm's)

As for spring rates, I found this thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1326920 very useful. I followed fmcfad01 advice and went with 450/500 springs on my daily driver. Very happy.
tire wear is a concern, in that i don't want to be replacing tires every year. i've put more miles on the car in the past year that i've owned it (about 6k) than any average of it's previous years. i'll probably go with the 500 lb spring rates you mentioned here. it's not a dd, so the firmer ride is not going to bother me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BenH View Post
You'll all set If you want to slam the coupe you may want to go with shorty rear springs and adjustable perch, but the regular TCK springs provide a nice balance between ride height, performance and looks. M suspension's rear geometry is pretty flexible so no worries on excessive camber. Get an alignment done after installation and remember only the front toe is adjustable, everything else isn't. If rear toe and camber are outside factory ranges then most likely you'll need to replace the worn OE trailing arm bushings with OE again. Also if you get 500 lb rear springs from TCK, it's not necessary to replace OE sf bushing with stiff IE ones. Plenty of rear end control with TCK coilovers on street and track. I can see how IE bushings help the wobbly rear end on roadsters but a M coupe with TCK suspension is about the best money you can spend to gain better handling and a nice ride to boot.
yes, i'll probably go with the shorties. i know that it sounds juvenile, but i really want this thing as low as i can get it w/o issues...but at the same time, i'm also trying to solve some high-speed floating issues. although i don't drive this way a lot, this thing gets up to triple digits very quickly and the feeling when cresting hills, etc. is a 'oh sweet jesus, i'm backing off' experience, to say the least. as for the subframe bushings...everything i've read seems to indicate that they really tie the rear-end together and MAYBE give a bit of subframe peace of mind, regardless of shock/spring choice. i hate that feeling of 'four wheel steering' through tight turns...but maybe that's not the bushings? i can't imagine the factory marshmallows back there are doing anyone any good. input anyone?
__________________
pimpin' ain't easy.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Hotbimmer Top Sites Free Price Quotes at Edmunds.com

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:12 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright © 2001 - 2008 Bimmerforums.com
One of the largest message boards on the web !