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| 1975 - 1983 (E21) (1975 - 1983) The original 3 Series. Known for its unique body styling and racing heritage, the E21 3 Series is a light, nimble, tail happy sports sedan with classic late 70's lines offering a connection to the road that few newer cars can match. |
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#1
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Tips on putting the engine/tranny back in?:)
Well, got everything back together: that is the engine and tranny on my 323i. It is hooked up to the engine hoist, and I think I can get it back in this next week....lots of work getting in the way of fun
. BTW, I have never done this before.....So, the question is: Any tips from the pros/more experienced than me/ on what to watch for, or be aware of to make this thing go back in? And, I assume you have to take the shifter off. Not sure how to get the tranny through the subframe area without taking this off. Oh, I removed the engine first and then the tranny. Took the tranny out the side of the car. Car way up on stands etc. Any help would be great. Dec. is the get-it-running deadline ![]() jm |
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#2
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when swapped my engine and trans i left the shifter assembly in the car and just hooked it up after i had them in. do you have an engine leveler? this will make the job alot easier.
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#3
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thanks
So you took the 'tray' off and left it in the car?
I am thinking I will need a leveler, have to see if I can find one. Tried to buy one last week, but they were not in stock. When did you put the brake/clutch line back on the clutch slave cyl.??? thanks for the input. jm |
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#4
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i just left my slave hooked up to the line and unhooked it from the tranny. i wouldn't really bother hooking anything up till after you get the engine mounted. if you left the driveline in the car you need to get it lined up with the tranny as you put it in.
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#5
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I'm not totally sure you can install the M20 and trans at the same time. Someone here will know, but the M10 and trans is a pretty tight fit. I got my load leveler at Harbor Freight. Don't even think about trying it without one.
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#7
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I have not had the fine opportunity to do it any Bimmer yet.
However, on other cars; I have found with the front wheels chocked on the ground, and the rear wheels raised off the gound will make more clearance for the tunnel. And yes - the leveler (well lubricated) is very much assistance. Wrap the tail of the tranny with something to protect it, incase you end up sliding it on the ground. Lay some cardboard on the ground too, to assist with sliding the tranny tail, if you have to go that low. Oh - and one more thing: change the tranny fluid while its still out of the car - this will save you about 30 minutes .Have fun. Robert
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![]() '78 320i, 15x7 BBS RS 070, Motorsport additions some time ago - unsure of all it's history. Still passes CA smog . |
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#8
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ok, thanks for the input
Great ideas! Tried to buy the leveler, but they are out right now, will check back and get one.
If I change the oil, will it run out the speedo hole? thanks, john Last edited by 2002jm; 11-07-2009 at 07:30 PM.. |
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#9
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![]() '78 320i, 15x7 BBS RS 070, Motorsport additions some time ago - unsure of all it's history. Still passes CA smog . |
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#13
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Quote:
***** And if you don't have your engine/tranny in yet - There is a round brass/or steel plug on the top of the tranny, with a tiny hole in it. This hole is the vent - make sure it's not clogged. Sorry to be late on that, I just remebered. Robert
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![]() '78 320i, 15x7 BBS RS 070, Motorsport additions some time ago - unsure of all it's history. Still passes CA smog . |
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#14
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How high?
Would top of jack stands be high enough???
I assume you mean the front needs to be high? I know I will have to jack up the back to spin the drive shaft to put it back on, but I can do that once the engine and tranny are on the mounts...I think? ![]() The little fitting on the top of the transmission near the front? I will check it tomarrow.. thanks for all the input from all of you....remember any help is good help!!! jm |
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#16
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There's a sort or bearing assembly in the speedo hole that carries the gear and also does the sealing. The same screw that holds the cable in retains this, so if you take the screw all the way out, it will fall out and then it will not hold oil. If you only back the screw out until the cable can be removed, the assembly will stay in and keep it sealed.
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#17
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perfect:)
Thanks for that tip; I will put the oil in today!
I took the tray off and will be cleaning and replacing C-clips so nothing falls off later. Have a new slave cyl. coming and will put that in after the tranny is in. Not sure if there is enough room to do that, but will check again. But I assume I will have some room since I have to bleed the system once I get the lines back on. Got one of those pressure bleeders from bravauto. That should make that job easier. I think I have a small leak in the driverside brake system. Have to check that out.Oh what is the best way to check and see if the gas tank is not all gunked up? Take the rear seat out and take the pump out? thanks again, jm |
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#18
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Yea, take out the rear seat and sending unit and with flashlight look inside. I dropped my tanks to clean and the driver side was worse than the passenger side, I assume that the trash from the passenger side was being sucked into the pump and filter which is why I restored the tanks.
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#19
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Thanks again
I am going to put the engine in and then do the fuel system check before I start this engine. Don't want to create 'other' problems.
thanks for the insight, will check it out. jm |
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