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#1
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Scale of 1-10 how hard to do these installs myself? Plus a few questions.
Well it seems as if hitting 140k miles on my car is now showing slight signs of age. (Suspension wise!) Mechanically this car pulls like it was straight outa the factory and with 137k miles on it I dyno'd it at 173rwhp and 178rwtq (higher numbers than factory with my light mods).
I just ordered OEM Control Arms to replace the special that is going on at getbmwparts.com It was 295.00 shipped with everything included. Question: 1 - How hard is it to do this myself? 1 being easy 10 being hard. Now I need to order new tie rods. Can anyone tell me which ones I should order? As I understand these are basic maintenance items and are fairly cheap...$30-40.00 per tie rod? How hard are these to install? Im ordering a complete new shock/spring package, I was thinking of bilstein sport struts/shocks with H&R or eibach sport springs or from every review i've heard and a personal friend who has raceland coilovers just get those. They are replica FK coilovers(according to people on this forum). My friend said these were pretty easy to install and he has offered to help me with these. Brakes I will do with my uncle (former MB master technician). So any input would be great. I really need to get these control arms and tie rods done asap and i've spent the money I have on getting parts (nothing left for labor hence why i'd like to do it myself.) -Mike
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#2
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It's very difficult to answer your question as you've asked it. I have no idea what tools or background you have.
Control arm replacement is not too difficult with a lift, air hammer with pickle fork, a long 22mm wrench and a tiny 3" long one, a hydraulic press to push your new bushings into the eyes, the right sleeve and pusher for the c.a.b.'s. It's a bitch of a job laying on your back, with incorrect tools, and no experience. Tie rod ends, kind of the same deal, but much easier to exchange; slightly smaller pickle fork, or better yet, tie rod seperator tool, count number of revolutions off, wind new ones on equally, then align front end for toe. Shocks/springs are fairly easy, too, with a wall-mounted strut spring compressor, and experience, but can get ugly real quick using little j-hooks.
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![]() Chris Powell Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok? Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928
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#3
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Hey man, hows it goin?
Anywho, control arms. W/O a press, 15,327.5 With a press, I'd call it a 4.5-5. The worst part will be pushing the new LCABS onto the control arm. Other than that, its really easy. Shocks springs, 4. Really straight foward. You'll need a mcpherson spring compressor. You can pick one up a sears for like 40-50 bucks. Also, get a really big prybar while you're at it. On the rears what I do is to take apart one side, namely just unbolt the lower shock bolt. Just a floor jack on the other, since you still have the swar bar connected, just jack up the other side until you see the side you are working on isn't going to come down much further. Then, take your big pry bar, and put it in the rectangular channel on the control arm, and pry away. Getting it all seated for reinstall will just take some finagling to get it all to sit right with the spring mounts. Brakes, Fronts: 2. Rears, 3.5 This depends if you are replacing the pads, and or the rotors. With the rotors in the rear, you will need to adjust down the internal parking brake shoes before the rotor will come off. Your uncle will know exactly what I mean, just tell him its the same parking brake setup as any 123, 126, 210, or 140 car. |
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#4
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did you get just the conntrol arm bushings or the whole arm inlcuding the bushing? It not that hard to guage yourself. If you just have to swap the whole arms just lif the vehicle and look under and what is all involved. pretty self exlanitory once you get under the vehicle and look. then you can m,ake a decision upon that
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#6
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Control arms come complete with ball joints; the control arm bushings are separate parts which need to be pressed into the bushing eyes. It's possible you bought new bushing eyes with the c.a.b.'s already installed, but they aren't usually sold this way for an E36.
Pushing the bushings into the eyes is the part of the job that requires a hydraulic press. Pushing the bushing/eye assembly onto the control arm is fairly easy, I use a big 10-12" modified c-clamp. Getting the inner ball joints on and off is tedious, but not difficult. Make sure to locate both ball joint tapers in their respective holes before tightening either of them. You'll need to jack under each ball joint to put weight on it in order to tighten the nuts.
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![]() Chris Powell Racer and Instructor since, well. decades, ok? Master Auto Tech, at an independent, formerly @ dealer BMWCCA 274412 SCCA 334928
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#8
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http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/tech.../tech_main.htm
You may be able to find some useful stuff on here. |
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