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| Z4 (E85, E86) (2003 - 2008) In 2003 the Z4 replaced the Z3. Meaner, edgier, and no longer a car born of spare parts, the Z4 took to the challenge of replacing the popular Z3 seriously. The shark like design, multi link rear suspension, and improved power makes the Z4 the new roadster to beat. In 2006 a coupe design was also introduced. |
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#1
10-27-2009, 11:08 PM
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DIY for front brake replacement
Hello! Man has it been since March since I posted last???
Anyway, I need to get my front brakes replaced, I figured that I would save roughly $350 and do it myself. I've searched on Google and these forums, and I found plenty of DIY's, like these: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76418 http://m3.madrussian.net/diy_front_brake_pads.shtml http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixit...dreplace_2.htm However, I haven't seen anything specific to the E85 Z4. Does anyone know of such a DIY guide? Also, at around how many miles should the oxygen sensors be replaced? I'm nearing 90k on my Z4 and I have heard that around 100k is when most of them need to be replaced, and talking with the shop at my dealer, it'll be well over $1000 for them to do it (parts alone is 1095!). Finally, let's talk fault codes. I am gonna need a fault code reader. Any suggestions? TYIA!
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Afterwards post in the signature/avatar request thread in the forum suggestions forum. 
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#2
10-28-2009, 01:59 AM
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Quote:
E36 brakes are also very similar to those on the E85 Z4. Here's the procedure I use: E36 BRAKE PAD.pdf Oxygen sensors are a 100,000 mile change item, but I wouldn't bother until you see the CEL and oxygen sensor fault code. I use the Peake Research fault code reader.
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Jim Millet
2007 E86 Z4 M Coupe
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#3
10-28-2009, 12:06 PM
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Oxygen sensors are easy...my dealer wanted $690 to replace it. Instead, I bought a new Bosch sensor at Autozone for $70 and installed it myself in about 10 minutes. It would have taken even less time if I hadn't been taking pictures of every step. As jmillet said, don't bother replacing them until the light comes on.
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http://automotivestupidity.blogspot.com - a compendium of bad taste and vehicular disgraces
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#4
10-29-2009, 08:24 PM
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I strongly agree with the above recommendation on the M3 website.
You could also pick up a Haynes Chilton manual from a local auto store. The 3 series and Z4 are in the same manual. They are essentially identical, and the manual will include things like proper torque settings, and plenty of pictures to review before you do anything. The jobs you plan on performing are fairly easy, just make sure to read over the manual/DIY several times and that you feel familiar with everything before you begin. It will be fun. Make sure you follow all the safety precautions as well, such as proper jacks, chocking the wheels, eye protection, gloves, etc. Brakes are easy but brake dust is sorta yucky. Brake parts cleaner is really helpful, and wash the wheels/car before you start to help. Good Luck. The http://www.e46fanatics.com/ website has a lot of useful diy's and is useful for Z4 owners.
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#5
11-15-2009, 02:52 PM
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Finished! I did the repair job and I have to thank my engineering boss for the place and tools. I think when I get my own house and garage I will buy the tools myself.
It took about 5 hours. The longest part of the job was finding the jack point which was very different from the pictures shown on the M3 brake change site and constructing my own ramps since the ramps I borrowed from a friend who owns a Corvette didn't work. That latter fact surprised me but I took a closer look at the 'vette and its wheels are closer to the front than a Z4, so the fact it doesn't have as much clearance didn't matter. The jack point I used was the place where the engine and front steering assemblies were supported. I thought it was a good place because it connected to the chassis of the car, and the beam seemed strong enough. Surely enough when I jacked the car up, no groaning and I'm still alive, and some er ... high speed tests later ... I confirmed it was working. Another clue that was the right place was a circular lip where the jack can go into ... my boss had doubts about it because the sheet metal where it is it is very cheap looking, so he wanted to take off the plastic panel covering the engine compartment first to confirm. I deliberately took my time on the first set, passenger side, because I wanted to do it right. That and the freaking BMW mechanics overtorqued the caliper bolts, and the rotor was partially corroded / fused to the hub. I took my time cleaning the hub and put anti-seize compound on the caliper to steering joint and the hub to rotor bolt, and some high temperature grease on the rotor to hub lip to ensure next time won't be a bear to get off. Note I installed new rotors too. Everything else was easy squeezy. Driver's side wheel was easier. The hardest part of that was again, the rotor was slightly corroded. My boss who helped me thinks that it is because in Seattle it rains often and it is unavoidable to drive through deep puddles from time to time, so it can't be helped. We put anti-seize on the caliper bolts and grease on the hub/rotor join. Also, I had issues with installing the new wear sensor. It seemed a bit tight, so I filed down the rubber sides of the nubbin which you insert into the top of the brake pad. I didn't want to mess with the sponge steel recess where the sensor goes. Also installed new rotor on this side. THe driver's side tire went much faster, like 45 min. Even then, had it not been for the wear sensor being too tight and the rotor being partially corroded to the hub, would have gone faster. It definitely was fun, and some bromancing with my cool boss. Best part was I saved roughly $250 off the dealer and $200 off Strictly BMW's prices (it's a BMW specialist outfit around here). One question though - normally, in the past, when I installed the brakes I would feel a definite change in how far I would push the brake pedal to stop. This time it is less noticeable. Anyone got ideas on something I could have done wrong? I double checked and verified my old pads are in a box so it's not like I took apart my wheel and accidentally put the old pads back on  ... or could it just be the brakes need to break in a bit before I notice it? Note that I changed my front brakes. My rears I didn't check, but I would assume I have enough pad (I will check today).
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#6
11-15-2009, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml BTW next time you're looking for maintenance assistance on your Z4 contact members of your local BMW Club: http://bmwpugetsound.com/enthusiast_bios.html I can be of assistance on E36, E36/7, E46, E85, and E86 models
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Jim Millet
2007 E86 Z4 M Coupe
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#7
11-15-2009, 11:42 PM
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In terms of the BMW club and helping out, I'll definitely get in touch with you guys. Next service is in 4000 miles for an inspection at 100k miles. I may want to take it to the dealer for the inspection, or do you guys have people who do that?
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Signature Disabled - Check the Signature Rules... Fix your signature FIRST!
Afterwards post in the signature/avatar request thread in the forum suggestions forum.
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#8
11-16-2009, 01:30 AM
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Quote:
__________________
Jim Millet
2007 E86 Z4 M Coupe
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