Clunk be gone. From the makers of mighty mend it. - Bimmerforums

WHITEXi · #1 10-24-2009, 10:00 PM

So I changed both my front axles from a set from FCP Groton. The clunk is gone. My dealer said I needed new axles for a vibration and that was a tie rod

.The axles had play anyway and torn boots with a slight minor vibration, but the tie rod definitely was the bad wheel shake. I don't know who made the old ones but they were aftermarket ones. The FCP ones fit fine the only thing was the movement around to get the non oem clips in. it took like ten seconds to just rotate them in on both sides. I wanted oem clips but I couldn't get any in time for today. the old axles had non oem clips anyway so it didn't matter tho. Its so nice I like driving my car again. I would say the install on both sides took an hr and a half but I was looking around at other things and taking my sweet time but all in all It was 3 hrs total. To anyone not using oem lock clips DO NOT try and hammer them in. Especially on the pass side, when you start to put the axles in the cir clip will go to one side more than the other. Rotate them around while putting minor force into them and it will fall right into place. I did not hammer or slam them in.

Second there is no need to remove the hub and caliber as this is a waste of time. I simply unbolt the outer tie rod and lower ball joint and swing the whole hub/strut assembly out of the way and tie it to the sway bar. Thats all there is to it.

Thought id share

16valex · #2 10-24-2009, 10:11 PM

Appreciate the feed back but can't make it head or tail

WHITEXi · #3 10-24-2009, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16valex

Appreciate the feed back but can't make it head or tail

what do you mean by heads or tails, im confused. Ill explain more if you do.

sonspot · #4 10-25-2009, 12:12 AM

good to know if i have to do mine, how was it dealing with FCP Groton, am thinking about buying control arms from them.

thanks

pphil09 · #5 10-25-2009, 12:55 AM

**Warning: Crude Language**

YouTube

tdz123 · #6 10-25-2009, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WHITEXi

So I changed both my front axles from a set from FCP Groton. The clunk is gone. My dealer said I needed new axles for a vibration and that was a tie rod

.The axles had play anyway and torn boots with a slight minor vibration, but the tie rod definitely was the bad wheel shake. I don't know who made the old ones but they were aftermarket ones. The FCP ones fit fine the only thing was the movement around to get the non oem clips in. it took like ten seconds to just rotate them in on both sides. I wanted oem clips but I couldn't get any in time for today. the old axles had non oem clips anyway so it didn't matter tho. Its so nice I like driving my car again. I would say the install on both sides took an hr and a half but I was looking around at other things and taking my sweet time but all in all It was 3 hrs total. To anyone not using oem lock clips DO NOT try and hammer them in. Especially on the pass side, when you start to put the axles in the cir clip will go to one side more than the other. Rotate them around while putting minor force into them and it will fall right into place. I did not hammer or slam them in.

Second there is no need to remove the hub and caliber as this is a waste of time. I simply unbolt the outer tie rod and lower ball joint and swing the whole hub/strut assembly out of the way and tie it to the sway bar. Thats all there is to it.

Thought id share

I wish that had worked for mine. I tried rotating and I still had to apply a tremendous amount of pressure to get them in. Good to hear the clunk is gone.

nathancarter · #7 10-26-2009, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 16valex

Appreciate the feed back but can't make it head or tail

When you have an Xi with failing front axles, it'll make more sense.

tdz123 · #8 10-26-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WHITEXi

So I changed both my front axles from a set from FCP Groton. The clunk is gone. My dealer said I needed new axles for a vibration and that was a tie rod

.The axles had play anyway and torn boots with a slight minor vibration, but the tie rod definitely was the bad wheel shake. I don't know who made the old ones but they were aftermarket ones. The FCP ones fit fine the only thing was the movement around to get the non oem clips in. it took like ten seconds to just rotate them in on both sides. I wanted oem clips but I couldn't get any in time for today. the old axles had non oem clips anyway so it didn't matter tho. Its so nice I like driving my car again. I would say the install on both sides took an hr and a half but I was looking around at other things and taking my sweet time but all in all It was 3 hrs total. To anyone not using oem lock clips DO NOT try and hammer them in. Especially on the pass side, when you start to put the axles in the cir clip will go to one side more than the other. Rotate them around while putting minor force into them and it will fall right into place. I did not hammer or slam them in.

Second there is no need to remove the hub and caliber as this is a waste of time. I simply unbolt the outer tie rod and lower ball joint and swing the whole hub/strut assembly out of the way and tie it to the sway bar. Thats all there is to it.

Thought id share

What method do you use to put the hub back on the axle (or the axle back in the hub, to state things differently)? I used the "hammer the crap out of it" method, which I'm not very fond of.

WHITEXi · #9 10-26-2009, 09:18 PM

I meant to get back earlier but just been busy lately. Anyways the method for the hub is this. I simply seat the axle in the diff first and them place the axle end against the hub and rotate the rotor to just have the axle grab in the teeth easily. I then just pull back and forth on the hub gently against the axle until I can get the axle nut on and then turn it on with the socket and breaker bar. Very easy.

tdz123 · #10 10-26-2009, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WHITEXi

I meant to get back earlier but just been busy lately. Anyways the method for the hub is this. I simply seat the axle in the diff first and them place the axle end against the hub and rotate the rotor to just have the axle grab in the teeth easily. I then just pull back and forth on the hub gently against the axle until I can get the axle nut on and then turn it on with the socket and breaker bar. Very easy.

Man. My job was the job from hell compared to yours or else I really wasn't doing things right. I swear to god I tried that exact thing...one hand on each side of the rotor, trying to get the stinking thing in. Fortunately I was able to get the thing fixed in the end, but it was by far the most difficult job I've done so far. Having a lift would have been helpful.

WHITEXi · #11 10-26-2009, 10:01 PM

A lift helps as the car is level with my shoulders, but the worst so far was the wheel bearing. That was hell.

wilman · #12 11-19-2009, 11:48 PM

that mighty mend video is hilarious!! " before your fat ass ripped it.. after your fat ass fixed it" lmao

millertimebmw03 · #13 11-20-2009, 03:21 PM

Glad to hear this worked out for you, its such a good feeling to have the car be so smooth!!!

sockethead · #14 11-20-2009, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pphil09

**Warning: Crude Language**

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQssF0v8_I4

That is friggin hilarious!

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