BJ's Franken Motor GT35R Build II

[HiTheNameIsBj]

I got some complaints about my first attempt of a build thread, so I got my buddy with a DSLR to swing by.

The Car:
95 325is
Everything that matters is stock



The Goods:

M50 Block
Weisco 84.5mm 8.5:1 Coated Pistons from Max PSI
Eagle Rods
S52 Crank
Calcite? coated main and rod bearings
Arp Main and Rod studs
Supertech valve springs
Precision BB GT35R t4
Good&Tight top mount manifold
Synapse Wastegate


























Progress thus far:
9/14
Block is machined, bored, and honed
Rotating assembly is balanced, and installed
Heads are being assembled, will be ready any day now.
Machining marks in ports are smoothed
All new engine bolts, studs, and nuts are ordered
Block is painted with KBS Black top

10/22
Radial valve job complete
Head fully assembled
Head mocked up
Turbo clocked
Oil lines cut, fittings installed
Waiting on engine bolts, timing tools


Thanks So Far:
Maximum PSI
Diamond Racing Engines
Good&Tight

[96bmwcosmosm3]

A+ wish i had the money to do my motor...

[TheM3nsah]

A+ wish i had the money to do my motor...

+1

[HiTheNameIsBj]

Thanks guys, I wish I had the money for it too. I'm just a a broke college student piecing everything together as paychecks come.

[good & tight]

You figure out why the ring was broken?

[HiTheNameIsBj]

Yea I broke it during installation. Bought another set from wiseco for ~$25 and a new ring compresser for $17. Their compressor is alot better thean the one I was using. The adjustable typeS have a non contact point right at the adjuster. The wiseco one is just a 84.5mm tapered sleeve.

[SiGmA]

Pics of their installer? I broke a ring with a SnapOn installed (has a non-contact point at the clamp-end of things) and bought a $7 screw-type compressor from Sears and had no more issues.. Reinstalled rings twice even :p

[HiTheNameIsBj]

They sell them in .5mm increments. Just put some assembly lube on it and no more tapping with a hammer handle, you can just push down with your thumbs.

I did this with a craftsman adjustable sleeve compressor.


I pulled all the pistons back out, inspected all of them, and scrubbed the block clean. Once I got the the new ring pack and compressor they all went in without an issue.


If anyone wants to borrow the wiseco compressor lemme know, just pay shipping both ways. Just obviously it''ll only work with 84.5mm

[SiGmA]

I'd like to see the compressor sir. I've never had an issue with an adjustable sleeve, but I guess next time around I'll buy a Wiseco compressor, that sounds really simple!

[HiTheNameIsBj]

are the pictures of the compressor not showing?

[mike radowski]

it's just a tapered sleeve that fits the bore exactly.

[stanksbeamen]

are the pictures of the compressor not showing?

Pictures work now, they were only showing up as red X's earlier. Looks good man, keep pushing forward!

[milKt]

pics of the Gutenteight manifold?

[HiTheNameIsBj]

Not high res but this is what I could dig up.











The placement is pretty tight between the WG and turbo. I mocked it up in my friends car, and clearly there is no room for the washer tank, and I may be able to work something out with the ac lines. I have 3.5 flexible conduit laying around, so I ran that down the top of the manifold and between #4 runner and the strut tower, it's close but fits.

[good & tight]

Here's one more pic of it.

[SiGmA]

Nice.

[HiTheNameIsBj]

Hey G&T I was thinking of taking a portaband to the header flange, separating each port. What do ya think?

[milKt]

Not high res but this is what I could dig up.



.

bad@$$

[Nj85'325]

Looking good Brian!

[M3 Muscle]

Hey G&T I was thinking of taking a portaband to the header flange, separating each port. What do ya think?

DON'T!!! I would imagine that during the welding process some slight distortion took place. When you separate the cylinders they are allowed to move into the distorted position. This would make it very difficult to get in place. Although in most cases having separate cylinders on the flange is optimal, the BMW M50 motors have so many head studs we really don't have problems with studs shearing with thermal expansion.

[HiTheNameIsBj]

DON'T!!! I would imagine that during the welding process some slight distortion took place. When you separate the cylinders they are allowed to move into the distorted position. This would make it very difficult to get in place. Although in most cases having separate cylinders on the flange is optimal, the BMW M50 motors have so many head studs we really don't have problems with studs shearing with thermal expansion.

I just wanted to shave some weight...


Joking of course. I was kind of going back and forth with it because yes we do have a lot (24 if IIRC) of head studs, but it is a long flange, allowing for more distortion. I suppose the best route, although impossible, would be to cut it while it was in position, after one heat cycle it should distort to the proper orientation.

G&T there are a few people asking about your manifold on r3v.

[I Love My Car]

what are you going to do about the heat with the top mount will wraping it be enough or you going to run a lower thermostat?

[HiTheNameIsBj]

I already run a lower t-stat because the car had an fdm. Header wrap is being applied to the manifold, adhesive shielding to the strut tower and underside of manifold.

Over the winter or spring I plan on picking up a mishimoto rad and stewert pump. For now I'm mainly just concerned with getting the car up and going on low boost.

[I Love My Car]

yea getting it running is always prioity haha i was just curious but sounds like you got that under wraps goodluck on the build

[HiTheNameIsBj]

Pretty much if the car's not ready by the first time it snows (late october normally) I'm just going to go ahead with stage 2 and do full suspension, all new cooling, dpi meth, cams, and maybe just maybe a maxpsi manifold. The build is pretty much taking forever, but cash flow is low, and I'd rather not cheap out and get crap that's going to fall apart. If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.