No start has me stumped!

[Tuppidsay]

97 318I automatic 130k good compression. Cranking no start. I bought it this way with sparatic spark. Checked input from the DME to the coil pack and I wasn't getting signal intermitantly, so I got a DME and EWS and key chip from a known good running car. Spark is still sparatic but more consistant. I happen to have another running 97 318 so I swapped the cam and crank sensors and also the coil pack. No codes in the computer. I have over 40psi of fuel pressure when I jumper the relay. The injectors are firing. After all this trial and error it's cranking and tries to start but doesn't. Didn't even try to start before. The oddest thing i've noticed is that the Check engine light is blinking during cranking. My other 318 doesn't, even with the coil removed and just cranking. Any ideas?

[bimmerfeel]

oil in the spark plug tubes(from a leaking valve cover gasket) causing spark arcing? definately sends CEL and codes.

[Tuppidsay]

no oil in the tubes. Forgot to mention new plugs and wires

[bimmerfeel]

would next guess cam sensor. But you're way past that with all those changeouts.....gotta be something simple. like a loose ground, vacuum leak(s), ??!

[Tuppidsay]

Im usually not one to just start swapping parts but I had the rare opertunity of having the exact same car to just start trying stuff so I figured why not. I actually thought it could be the cam sensor. and the crank sensor was a sh*ts and giggles move cause my scanner gives an engine speed reading while cranking. I'm leaning towards bad fuel, timing, or a problem in the wiring harness.

[bimmerfeel]

yeah, I see on your profile that you're a technician. But when you got parts just layin' around kinda cool to be able to do the no brainer thing and see what happens. ... bad fuel maybe, but that wacky spark problem is kind of a reality check every time I run a possible scenario thru my mind. wiring harness more distinct possibility.

[Tuppidsay]

Yeah same here on the spark. I think the next real step is to check for coil signals right at the computer. To see if the computer is sending the erratic signals or if its a wiring problem. I really hate buying used electronics ie the DME, EWS, and chips. You hope people are honest but you never know. The flashing check engine light makes curious too, like maybe the computer is not staying on during cracking thus causing the light to turn on and off and thus sending weird spark signals.

[heifetz17]

Im usually not one to just start swapping parts but I had the rare opertunity of having the exact same car to just start trying stuff so I figured why not. I actually thought it could be the cam sensor. and the crank sensor was a sh*ts and giggles move cause my scanner gives an engine speed reading while cranking. I'm leaning towards bad fuel, timing, or a problem in the wiring harness.

If you have the correct parts at your disposal, this is actual a very good method of diagnostics. It's probably the fastest way to rule out possible problems, and costs you nothing more than your time.

[bimmerfeel]

well, keep us posted. sounds like you have the "nose" and the equipment to chase this one all the way home!

[Tuppidsay]

Got her fixed! I used a lab scope and connected it to the CKP sensor and found that the signal had a large gap in the signal. I used a mirror and inspected the signal ring as I turned the engine over by hand only to find that 1/4th of the ring was gone. So natural I removed the oil pan and found the missing pieces in the bottom of the pan. So I got a new ring from BMW, surprisingly only $35, and installed it on the crank. Buttoned her up an she runs like a champ!

I think the key to recognizing the issue is that the check engine light blinks continuously while cranking. My thought is that the dme sees that gap and restarts the "start-up" program thus causing the injectors to fire and only the #1 coil pack to fire. I noticed that when you first start the car the check engine light goes off then back on an stays on till the car "runs" when everything is normal.

[bimmerfeel]

Got her fixed! I used a lab scope and connected it to the CKP sensor and found that the signal had a large gap in the signal. I used a mirror and inspected the signal ring as I turned the engine over by hand only to find that 1/4th of the ring was gone. So natural I removed the oil pan and found the missing pieces in the bottom of the pan. So I got a new ring from BMW, surprisingly only $35, and installed it on the crank. Buttoned her up an she runs like a champ!

Dood, that is cool! But I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why the parts would (naturally, as you say?!) end up in the pan? $35 for the impulse wheel at the dealership? Now you're the "stealer"! lol that's a great price..

I think the key to recognizing the issue is that the check engine light blinks continuously while cranking. My thought is that the dme sees that gap and restarts the "start-up" program thus causing the injectors to fire and only the #1 coil pack to fire. I noticed that when you first start the car the check engine light goes off then back on an stays on till the car "runs" when everything is normal.

That thought makes sense. Poor thing was trying to start on one cylinder! I went out just now and checked the CEL at startup on the '92 325 but it blinks off at startup and stays off. Can't check the '97 318iC 'cause I'm replacing the cooling system. Will watch for that when I get her running.

Good job mate!!

[Tuppidsay]

My battery was half dead and cranked slow so maybe that's why I noticed the light and your good running car (asumption) starts good and fast enough that the light never comes back on cause it's already running by then. Disable the spark or fuel and you'll see what I'm taking about, the light comming back on and staying on. Course it could be a feature of the obd2 dme or of the 1/97 tlev engine. I dunno it's just what I noticed. Also while searching the net on the subject that the flashing cel while cranking is an indication of a ckp problem on fords.

As far as woundering about how the tone ring broke. The full story is that I bought the car with this problem for $1500. The guy told me he parked it and it never started again. And that as far as he knows it just has no spark. And appearantly got screwed cause along with the tone ring pieces in the bottom of the pan I have shreds of connecting rod bearing from #4, half a crank sensor, and big gob of copper wire (from the sensor). Which had apearantly been replaced. And this bearing was very shot (paper thin) so it must have knocked like a mother f'er. I think the bearing sqeezed out the sides of the crank and hooked the tonner ring causing it to break, breaking the sensor, and dragging in a bunch of the copper wire. The remaining bearing that was in place had melted into 1 piece of tin that I had to cut off the crank and the rod cab has turn black! It's bad, I'll get some pics up tomorrow. I've seen a lot of failed connecting rod bearings but this is the worst. So I need a new motor, and the cheapest around here is $1200 plus freight from Portland to Seattle. I bought the car to fix and sale. No profit on this one lol.

[bimmerfeel]

Geez.. too bad. sometimes you just puts down your money, and takes your chances.. gotta hand to you for the sleuthing job that you do though. Impressive.

[Tuppidsay]

Yeah, it happens. Thanks!

[Jackson1014]

I am having a starting problem with my 97 318i. Best I can tell it is the starter/solenoid. The car will start and run fine for a week or so and then it wont start. What brought me to my conclusion, myself being a country boy located the starter and tapped on it and the car will start. I was just wanting to make sure that I was on the right track or if there is anything else I need to look at first.

Thank you

[Tuppidsay]

If it works after hammering the starter and 99% you got a starter full off carbon build up or a starter solenoid that's all gummed up. Either way it generally means its time for a starter. good luck

[Jackson1014]

If it works after hammering the starter and 99% you got a starter full off carbon build up or a starter solenoid that's all gummed up. Either way it generally means its time for a starter. good luck

Thank you sir