I have searched and searched and still not found the solution...someone must know how... I am trying to get my college age son's car back on the road...the car was a recovered theft bought 3 years ago. It has always had a problem with the spinning key thing and last month the key came out and the car kept running...The key was gutted so doubt it was the original to begin with, but worked for 3 years anyway...no one locally could get the tumbler out to repair the pin that broke off. I have search all over and decided since there was bad bearings in the column also that sounded like spring wire scraping when you turned the wheel to just replace the entire column and with it a new key...Now I am trying to get it running again....Its the code and EWS I need bypassed ...I DO NOT NEED THIS SECURITY...remember it is a recovered theft...so it didn't help the previous owner, did it?....I just want my son to be able to use the car again....if a thief wants it, he'll get it no matter what it has in it for security.
Anyway...I have jumped 1 and 3 in EWS...all that did as get the starter working with the key normally...I clipped # 7 / green wire on diagnostic plug as all the posts in BMW forums also said to do...still no spark or fuel...I need to find out what else i need to cut/ bypass or what ever to get the car to run again.. .............email me if you are not wanting to post the solution on the forum... i just need it back on the road....thanks
think about getting a non ews ECU. that will probably be the best way.
as for the tumbler, ehh thats a tough one. call bmw and see if they will match your old key to a new tumbler... then get a used one. that is iffy though, either way this part may be expensive to fix. worse comes to worse.. get a steering column AND key out of another car and have one key for the doors and one key for the ignition.
1994 325is - s50/zf trans/TRM chip/s52 headers/21.5lb injctrs/3.5 HFM/M3 brakes/billy sports/hr springs/reinforced subframe/camber plates/adj ctrl arms/3.15 LSD
2004 Volvo s40 T5 - Daily
2000 GMC k2500 5.7 - 33's/frame off resto'd
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You can get the entire switch assembly on ebay for $100 or less. The problem with your igintion switch turning isnt the tumbler its the shaft that connects the tumbler to the switch. Get a new assembly from the dealer for $200 or a used one on ebay and swap the tumblers. What year is the car? Your EWS may need a chipped key to get it to run. The key you have could be toast. A new one is only available at the dealer.
first question is what year did your column come from
if you still have the old column i would try to plug the ews antenna ring back in and hold your old (gutted) key up to it the key would have to have a chip in it or the car never would have run
or you can convert it to obd1 get a red label 413 DME
sorry but there is no easy way to bypass the EWS on a obd2 car
S52 Wisco/trm pistons eagle rods top mount 6266 (etc) (etc) zionsville fatboy radiator VDP oil cooler setup
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thanks, well obviously there must be a way to bypass and shut the system down, the ones who stole it before knew how...and to the first 2 replies, thx...but if you read my whole thread...I ALREADY replaced the column and shaft and a new ignition with tumbler and key....out of a 1999 btw Restricted... and it was gutted, meaning nothing in the old key, no chip or anything...but somehow for 3 years it work, just spun 50% of the time and eventually started.. and no the old antenna and tape the key in trick did NOT work....I want the system cut off completely....I will find out how somewhere....thanks for the replies
PS, I refuse to go to the dealer, last time they (Hendicks) had my BMW for service, their minimum wage warriors worked on it and I wound up with anti-freeze in my window washer....SO they get an F for service.......
Last edited by cruiser49; 07-31-2009 at 12:28 PM.
Saw that one also, I searched them all ...but have no idea where that unloader is on my sons 1996 328i..........so, anyway i have it to where it spins over ie: starter bypassed so it cranks, but where do i bypass the fuel pump and the coils for spark guess thats whats left to bypass and get it running....should be the relays. Are they under the fuse box?
Do you have the electrical wiring diagrams? Parts can be located using it:
http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/19...g%20Manual.pdf
The connector for Unloader (X63) (see details for fuse 23, Section 0670.3) is behind the LH footwell speaker grill.
Last edited by Monolith; 07-31-2009 at 01:16 PM.
I am not a car thief.
EWS II is designed so that the DME won't allow the engine to run unless it's identified the key via the EWS II module and the transponder in the key. The communication between the DME and EWS II module is via a digital communication link. It's not a simple check for voltage, and it's not easily spoofed. You can't work around this by cutting or splicing wires, because then the DME won't be seeing what it needs to see.
You can (and did) get the starter going relatively easily because there's no digital communication involved here, the EWS II module just functions as a simple relay that either enables or disables the starter. You can easily wire the starter around the EWS II module so that it won't interfere with cranking. But don't let that fool you into thinking it's going to be just as simple (or inexpensive) to convince the DME to run the engine.
With the starter out of the way, it is possible to bypass EWS II entirely, but it involves reprogramming the DME to not require EWS II. You need to flash new software onto the DME to achieve this. I don't know of any ready-made "EWS delete" flashes for the 328 (although there's one for the M3), but a reputable tuner ought to be able to help you out here. The problem is that a reputable tuner isn't going to be cheap, and I wouldn't expect this to cost less than $400.
You've got parts that worked before (minus a tumbler) and you've got parts that don't work now (with a working tumbler). I'd suggest that the cheapest way forward would be to mix and match.
You said that you experienced a grinding with your old column, but on these cars, grinding is often a result of the spindle lubrication drying out. The spindle is hollow and the vibration gets transmitted right up to the wheel.
Another option would be to make a modification similar to what people do to add remote starting to their E36. Essentially, you permanently install the EWS antenna and key transponder together, independent from the key used in the ignition switch. For your purposes, I wouldn't even leave the stock antenna in place, so you might be able to reuse something you've already got. If you don't have a transponder, you'll need to order a key, but this still might wind up cheaper than the other options.
Then again, the car's been stolen and then hacked on a little bit since, so your mileage might vary.
But hey, what do I know? I'm no car thief.
since i have a key thats not the original one now because of the steering column swap and the coded chip isn't sending the correct signal to the DME/ECU via the EWS II...........Can i take out the DME/ECU, EWS, and bring them to the dealer or BMW Repair shop with the key to have them flashed/ realigned or what ever it is they do to get this key working so the car will start? i did jump the #1 & #3 wires on the EWS so it cranks but will that realigning of the 2 units with the new key work to get the spark/fuel situation resolved?....
I have a 528I that had the same problem. You can either order a new key from BMW or what I did was get an ignition with a key thwt matched my car. once i installed the ignition I openned the key and put the chips inside of the original key to the new key and everything worked fine. Bad thing about it is that now I lost the new key and tried it again but forgot that I dont have the original chips for the coded esw so I cant do it again. Now I do need to by pass it or take it to BMW to program the key.
Pls any one can help me I need to bypass my E36,M43,i guess! Bosch DME,
I already bypass all tacqunes which every one told...
But Porblem is this I am gettin spark in Plugs & dont get Puls in Injucters,I stard my car by potting petrol spray from intake & Its started .....
So any suggetion whats wrong in my bypass or its having problem in ECU?
Advance thanks who wish to help me ...my mail id is tallnsmartman@yahoo.com.....
again thanks...
If you are 100% sure you ate getting spark then it's not your immobilizer or anything to do with EWS. Fuelinjectors leads me to think cam sensor
The same part if EWS that disables injectors dis led spark. If you have either one of those it's not EWS.
What's the build date of the car?
Last edited by flyfishvt; 07-11-2012 at 07:24 PM.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Can someone help plz?? I hav just purchased a 318i 1992 model i drove it hme fine stoped at the first turned it off got bak in started fine proceeded hme , then i found the remote keyring remote thing decided too use it worked i waz stoked lol however when i went too start the car again all the reds came up n still do fine but the blimin car wont kick over ... Help plz i dont kno how to post a question here properly yet only nu
If I can jump in on this issue? Several years ago, my key got stuck in the ignition and would not turn. Had it towed to an independent BMW shop. They charged me for a new tumbler and labor. The little black ring around the tumbler was the same one after repairs. The old one was chipped and after repairs it was still chipped. I had my doubts whether they actually replaced the tumbler but I did not questioned them. Thought maybe the new tumbler came without the little black ring and so they just reused the old one( little black ring, that is). They also did not give me a key for the new tumbler which I saw on Pelicanparts they sell the tumbler with the key. I used my original BMW key with the replaced tumbler(?) Eventually I got a replaced key from the dealer because I felt like the original key just did not turn the ignition smoothly even for my liking. Then starting a few months ago I started having what I thought were starter issues. Had the starter rebuilt and replaced, but same starting issues are persisting now. Car starts on first try and sometimes makes this zzinng sound and wont start. Replaced the ignition switch few months ago. Do you suppose it could be an issue between the switch and the tumbler not making a good connection? Also, what is the role of the ignition interlock cable? Should I take the car to an electric shop for diagnosis? Would it be something they can figure out? Or is it a regular shop thing? Dont really want to go back to the shop who installed the tumbler. It was 2 or so years ago. They will probably not want to do anything about it. Just wanted to add this because it sounds in line with this discussion.
Last edited by TITE3NBIGD; 11-12-2012 at 02:15 PM.
Hello everyone!
I have the same problem as cruiser49 with bypassing part of the EWS system and still having no spark and fuel pump not pumping. and I have the starter turning. Same exact problem. My fuel pumps works,and fuses are ok.
I do not know the location of the relays in my car. there are a few (4) in the trunk beside the battery.
also my stereo does not come on
and my obd doesn't send power to the reader. So no codes
I have a 1996 e38 750il
please help!
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