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Thread: LIFETIME FILL - ** ***! - Part II

  1. #1
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    LIFETIME FILL - ** ***! - Part II

    So, it is that time again boys and girls...
    Time to replace the ATF, filter, and plugs.
    This will be my second time.
    Please reference my initial thread:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1009518
    It became very controversial to say the least.

    My car recently hit 94k miles, and it has been approx. 10k miles since I first replaced the ATF and filter at 83k miles.

    I have had several bottles of Amsoil Universal ATF, an OEM ATF filter, and new transmission plugs sitting in my garage for almost 6 months.
    Not to mention several other parts collecting dust... ::cough::(H&R coil-overs) :::cough:::

    My family and I were planning on driving to my parent's for July 4th weekend, so I wanted to replace the ATF before the 8 hour trip.

    Again, I used Jo's DIY write-up on replacing the ATF:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=860655

    One thing to add though...
    I used a T-45 instead of a T-40 torx socket head for the drain and fill plugs.

    On with the pictures...

    Car is up!




    Like I said... T-45...



    Dropped pan...
    Looks a tad bit cleaner than the first time! LOL!


    OLD pan....
    FIRST TIME CHANGE
    A not so clean pan:




    Close-up of the magnet...
    Notice the fluid looks red, not so black...



    Clean pan....



    Where have I seen this before????


    New OEM filter is in my hand, the non-OEM is in the catch pan...
    Notice the different color rubber plugs...
    Also note that the rubber plugs can get stuck up inside the transmission...
    Ask me how I know... LOL!




    OEM filter....



    Goop from magnet on my shop towel...


    And a cool picture of my wheel and H&R coil-overs...


    Impressions...
    I feel absolutely no difference in how the car drives.
    However I am so glad to get the old ATF out!
    It's all about the peace of mind.


    Thanks!
    Jason
    Last edited by Jason5driver; 08-23-2018 at 12:56 PM.

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  2. #2
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    Nice write up Jason! Car is looking clean
    AW|Byzanz



  3. #3
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    only 10k mile interval huh? seems you could have run it a bit longer IMHO.

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    Were changing tranny fluid every 10k miles now?
    (oOO\(|||)(|||)/OOo) /00=[][]=00\

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by blatant View Post
    Nice write up Jason! Car is looking clean
    Thanks!
    I try...
    I have my moments...

    Quote Originally Posted by e39dream View Post
    only 10k mile interval huh? seems you could have run it a bit longer IMHO.
    Well, I could have replaced the fluid a 1000 miles after the first ATF change, and actually that was what I initially had planned, but opted to replace the ATF after 10k.

    I will replace the ATF and filter again in another 20k-30k miles.

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  6. #6
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    Thumbs up

    Nice work Jason. Its good to see that fluid getting closer to its original color. I need to do this soon. Ill be doing this sometime in earlier august because Im moving into a place with a garage. Im going to post pictures when I do it so we can compare two 01 525s with two different auto trans. I got the A5S 325Z compared to your A5S-390R. Only thing I could really find was that mine is german and yours is gm. also found:

    Automatic transmission fluid capacity
    • A5S 360R / A5S 390R
    with torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 liters (9.5 qt)
    without torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 liters (4.2 qt)
    • A5S 325Z (2.5 liter)
    with torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.9 liters (9.4 qt)
    without torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 liters (6.5 qt)

    Does one have a higher failure rate or any other differences?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by allamer35 View Post
    Nice work Jason. Its good to see that fluid getting closer to its original color. I need to do this soon. Ill be doing this sometime in earlier august because Im moving into a place with a garage. Im going to post pictures when I do it so we can compare two 01 525s with two different auto trans. I got the A5S 325Z compared to your A5S-390R. Only thing I could really find was that mine is german and yours is gm. also found:

    Automatic transmission fluid capacity
    • A5S 360R / A5S 390R
    with torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 liters (9.5 qt)
    without torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 liters (4.2 qt)
    • A5S 325Z (2.5 liter)
    with torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.9 liters (9.4 qt)
    without torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 liters (6.5 qt)

    Does one have a higher failure rate or any other differences?
    I don't think one fails more than the other...
    I am guessing, but, I think whether the transmission fails or not is determined by maintenance, and driving habits of the driver.

    And, I think the GM transmission is really made in France, so it's French...
    Last edited by Jason5driver; 08-21-2009 at 03:57 AM.

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  8. #8
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    Those damn French with their cheese, wine and poo poo transmissions....

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jackcat559 View Post
    Those damn French with their cheese, wine and poo poo transmissions....
    No Doubt!
    LOL!


    Also, I think the GM transmissions are cheaper to fix versus a ZF transmission.

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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    I don't think one fails more than the other...
    I am guessing, but, I think whether the transmission fails is determined by maintenance and driving habits of the driver.

    And, I think the GM transmission is really made in France, so it's French...
    Oh ok gotcha outsourced manufacturing.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by allamer35 View Post
    Only thing I could really find was that mine is german and yours is gm. also found:

    Automatic transmission fluid capacity
    • A5S 360R / A5S 390R
    with torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 liters (9.5 qt)
    without torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 liters (4.2 qt)
    • A5S 325Z (2.5 liter)
    with torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8.9 liters (9.4 qt)
    without torque converter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 liters (6.5 qt)

    Does one have a higher failure rate or any other differences?
    Where can you find this information to know what type of transmission you have?

    btw nice write up/pics Jason, how long did it take you to do it this 2nd time around?

    nvm, i found it (A4S 270R/310R)
    Last edited by SPHINX25; 07-09-2009 at 06:27 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by SPHINX25 View Post
    Where can you find this information to know what type of transmission you have?

    btw nice write up/pics Jason, how long did it take you to do it this 2nd time around?

    nvm, i found it (A4S 270R/310R)
    Check here
    Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket

    Stable: e92is, e53 N62, e46M54B25, Tribby & e39 M54B30 R.I.P.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orxan4ik View Post
    Were changing tranny fluid every 10k miles now?
    this.
    1985 325 - 5 speed - LSD - M50NV - MS2/extra - AEM UEGO - TiAL MV-R - 750cc injectors - HX35 - Blunttech Manifold - 3" exhaust
    1991 318i - 5 speed - M50NV - e36 rack - Smileys

  14. #14
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    really, you needed a whole another post about this, sorry to say it but you wasted a good deal of money on this second change.

    I would note that even with shiny fresh fluid over a very short interval you are continuing to have wear and the fluid is well on its way to being black and burnt looking, I would wonder how the rate compares to before the first change.

    It would be interesting to open a transmission, change the filter and clean the pan/magnet, but then re load with the old fluid(no new fluid) then check it at 10k miles.

    This definitely wins the thread whore of the week award in my book.
    Last edited by NNY528I; 07-09-2009 at 09:38 PM.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    really, you needed a whole another post about this, sorry to say it but you wasted a good deal of money on this second change.

    I would note that even with shiny fresh fluid over a very short interval you are continuing to have wear and the fluid is well on its way to being black and burnt looking, I would wonder how the rate compares to before the first change.

    It would be interesting to open a transmission, change the filter and clean the pan/magnet, but then re load with the old fluid(no new fluid) then check it at 10k miles.

    This definitely wins the thread whore of the week award in my book.
    I guess I do not understand your logic.
    This ATF replacement was money WELL spent IMO.
    As I recall, I think my tranmission has approx. 9 qt capacity with the torque converter and approx. 4 qt capacity without the torque converter.

    So, I only replaced about 75% of the old fluid on the first ATF replacement (put in approx. 6 qts of Amsoil Universal ATF).

    Hence, I wanted to do ANOTHER ATF replacement to get as much of the old ATF out as possible.

    I put in approx. 6 qts of ATF the second time.
    I know one thing though.... Amsoil Universal ATF is some good stuff!

    I spent about $6.50 per qt on the Amsoil ATF, about $3.00 for new drain and fill plugs, and about $80 for a new OEM ATF filter kit with new pan bolts.
    So, it comes to approx. $140-$150 total.
    I would gladdly spend $140 instead of spending $1500 for a ATF transmission rebuild kit or $5000+ for a whole new transmission!
    DOH!

    And, I don't want to be your thread whore...
    LOL!

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    I guess I do not understand your logic.
    This ATF replacement was money WELL spent IMO.
    As I recall, I think my tranmission has approx. 9 qt capacity with the torque converter and approx. 4 qt capacity without the torque converter.

    So, I only replaced about 75% of the old fluid on the first ATF replacement (put in approx. 6 qts of Amsoil Universal ATF).

    Hence, I wanted to do ANOTHER ATF replacement to get as much of the old ATF out as possible.

    I put in approx. 6 qts of ATF the second time.
    I know one thing though.... Amsoil Universal ATF is some good stuff!

    I spent about $6.50 per qt on the Amsoil ATF, about $3.00 for new drain and fill plugs, and about $80 for a new OEM ATF filter kit with new pan bolts.
    So, it comes to approx. $140-$150 total.
    I would gladdly spend $140 instead of spending $1500 for a ATF transmission rebuild kit or $5000+ for a whole new transmission!
    DOH!

    And, I don't want to be your thread whore...
    LOL!

    so based on this logic tree, the newer the fluid the longer the tranny will last, why then are you not changing the ATF every 3000 miles, that way it will always be as fresh as possible.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



  17. #17
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    Just sell me your coilovers, we all know you'll never get around to installing them.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    so based on this logic tree, the newer the fluid the longer the tranny will last, why then are you not changing the ATF every 3000 miles, that way it will always be as fresh as possible.
    It's just purely common sense IMO...
    Would you rather have a clean engine or a dirty engine?

    1. Which engine will run better?
    a. An engine that has never had an oil change, or
    b. An engine that has regular oil changes???

    If you had read Jo's DIY write-up or any of the other ATF DIY's, it is stated that at least (2) ATF changes are needed in order to get most of the old ATF out.

    I am sorry you do not understand that.
    LOL!

    Like I stated before....
    Regular transmssion fluid changes will be done at the typical 30k mile mark as what is scheduled in the old-school maintenance schedule.
    Reference Mike Miller's maintenance schedule and BavAuto's schedule.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fiziks View Post
    Just sell me your coilovers, we all know you'll never get around to installing them.
    Actually, you are wrong...
    LOL!
    I had planned on installing them right after the ATF replacement, but was stopped by the wife's plans...
    I actually started to take apart the front, but at 8pm Sunday night, I realized that I would never get done in time before work the next day...
    DSC00084.jpg

    DSC00093.jpg

    DSC00099.jpg

    DSC00098.jpg

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  19. #19
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    lol...your always so close to installing them!

    ...I thought we only criticized people for not doing maintenance on bimmerforums
    AW|Byzanz



  20. #20
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    Changing your tie rod ends at the same time eh? You could have done the front coils... those take a couple hours max.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by cdb3113 View Post
    Changing your tie rod ends at the same time eh? You could have done the front coils... those take a couple hours max.
    Yeps!
    I have new tie rods that I was going to install at the time.
    I had to buy the special pliers to crimp the dust cover rubber boot to the tie rods too.
    I figured that the tie rod install would set me back time wise, so I opted to wait until another weekend and have a FULL day to do the work.

    I have never done a strut or shock install, nor the tie rods before, so I am guessing I will take much longer than most people.

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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by blatant View Post

    ...I thought we only criticized people for not doing maintenance on bimmerforums

    that and M emblems on non M cars...

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by BKphoto View Post
    that and M emblems on non M cars...
    I can see that though...
    AW|Byzanz



  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
    It's just purely common sense IMO...
    Would you rather have a clean engine or a dirty engine?

    1. Which engine will run better?
    a. An engine that has never had an oil change, or
    b. An engine that has regular oil changes???

    If you had read Jo's DIY write-up or any of the other ATF DIY's, it is stated that at least (2) ATF changes are needed in order to get most of the old ATF out.

    I am sorry you do not understand that.
    LOL!
    1000 mile oil changes are purely common sense too lol

    Would you rather have a clean engine or a dirty engine?

    1. Which engine will run better?
    a. An engine that has regular oil changes every 1000 miles, or
    b. An engine that has regular oil changes every 5000 miles????


    Is Jo a father of automatic transmissions? Does Jo have any expertise? Did Jo design your transmission?

    I am sorry you do not understand that.
    LOL!

    And to stay on topic, you DID NOT answer NNY528I's main question - why not do fluid change every 3000 miles?
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Orxan4ik View Post
    1000 mile oil changes are purely common sense too lol

    Would you rather have a clean engine or a dirty engine?

    1. Which engine will run better?
    a. An engine that has regular oil changes every 1000 miles, or
    b. An engine that has regular oil changes every 5000 miles????


    Is Jo a father of automatic transmissions? Does Jo have any expertise? Did Jo design your transmission?

    I am sorry you do not understand that.
    LOL!

    And to stay on topic, you DID NOT answer NNY528I's main question - why not do fluid change every 3000 miles?
    Wow!
    It is hard to explain anything to someone that chooses NOT to listen.
    By your pure ignorant statements, I can only assume that you are being very sarcastic...

    Your statements about Jo are very childish IMO.
    I can not even reply to such non-sense.

    I can only explain the ATF replacement procedure so many times, and so clearly...
    I really DO NOT know how to make it any more clear for you.
    You would think after looking at the picture of dropped pan on the first replacement, then looking at the picture of the second replacement would be enough....????

    Even my 5 year old daughter could figure out which procedure is best:
    A. Leave in the old dirty/ yucky stuff, or
    B. Put in new clean stuff...

    And, I DID answer NNY's question.
    You just do not understand.
    Sorry.

    Looking for an E39 belly pan , passenger front inner fender liner …

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