so - i replaced my clutch pedal bushings today after it became a little creaky/sloppy about six months ago. i looked at the alternative bushings and OEM, i went with OEM simply because i cannot justify a bajillion% increase over the price of stock, when the OEM bushings that were in it lasted nearly 80k miles. i know they're crappy, but hey - 80k miles and as far as i can tell (they definitely looked it) they were original.
first of all, that job sucks. i took out the seat, all the underside dash trim and it still took over an hour to pry the clips off and get the pedal/spring assembly out and replaced with new, lithium greased, OEM bushings. the squeak is completely gone but there is still a little side-side slop in the pedal action. it isn't as bad as before, but it's still sloppy.
i only had the car about six months before i noticed the initial squeak and then it became a little sloppy. so my frame of reference is a little lacking, but it seems to me that it is still not quite right.
the pins and mounts all looked fine. i changed the spring and clips too. it was nice to see that everything looked without wear under there, but i can't tell where the slop is coming from. the only thing i can guess is that something is up with the bracket with the pin on which the pedal rides. but it felt tight and the pin looked perfectly round.
anyway - are there any other wear items in there i could/should change out?
The hole on the plastic pedal itself also wears out. If you want to be anal, then a metal clutch pedal and an after market (UUC) is the only way to go. You can also order the whole assembly from Ron Stygar:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/dri...edal_slop.html
And the one from Mr. Mason of course.
Bottom of the page. http://www.masonengineering.net/Subp...W_Products.htm
2001 S54 LSB/NAPA. 1 of 7.
Over the weekend my clutch pedal missed the stop on the floor and got wedged behind some plastic paneling. Guess it's time I fix the slop too.
"If the Corvette is a rebellious child of the extended automotive family, the M coupe is the blackest of sheep." - via Car & Driver
ouch...
thanks for the pointers guys, but i was really hoping it wasn't the pedal. i mean, i don't know what else it could be - but i was really hoping there was another $1 piece i could replace.
oh well. i don't plan on pulling that all apart so soon. i'll wait until it bothers me enough to fix it properly.
The proper fix is the steel pedal. Fast, consistant shifts.
Joe
Its shorter, so its harder to push? not that its a huge deal just wondering
3.73 | TCK S/A w/ H&R Sport | M50 manifold | IE Subframe Bushings, RSM, & SS brake lines | Shark Injector | UUC Evo3 SSK & DSSR | Cosmos Strut Brace | ASC, Resonator, CDV Delete
the standard E36 / Z3 plastic clutch pedal main bush housing becomes ovalized over time. The replacement of the bushes does not seem to remedy the bad situation. The only option apears to be discarding said pedal and re-new.
New steel pedals are available,improved geometry with a reduced travel of 1.5 in. also is on the same horizontal plane as the brake pedal, cures the pivot bush problem due to all metal welded construction=bullet proof. I worked on the design of these pedals with Dr. Stroes prior to his withdrawl from the BMW accessories industry.
JOHN MASON
There are also replacement bushings available from UUC that seem to work nicely with the stock pedal. The stock bushings are a split design, made to expand as they go into the hole in the pedal, rather sloppily taking up the space. The UUC bushings are solid delrin, and come with spacers to eliminate any endplay on the clutch pedal that causes the rocking/slop. Did them on my E36/M3 and made a wonderful difference. Fairly cheap too - $20.
http://www.nexternal.com/uuc/Product40
Was poking around on the UUC site - under Specials and found the bushings are free if you order a stainless clutch line..
http://www.nexternal.com/uuc/Product318 - which is only $29. - that sounds like a deal..
Take a look at the "Specials" down near the bottom. Kewl..
Last edited by deilenberger; 07-07-2009 at 10:41 AM. Reason: More info..
Don Eilenberger
'01 M-Coupe, '03 525iaT, '07 R1200R
'06 Porsche Cayenne S - Titanium Edition (Iceland silver/Titanium
.
It's not the pedal. Replacing that is a waste of time. You don't replace a wheel when you have a bad wheel bearing, do you?
The problem with the OEM bushings, besides the material, is the design... they are split with a gap, which is why wear accumulates and accentuates the looseness. The bushings can flex when new due to this gap, which is why your pedal is still sub-optimal.
As others have posted above, our teflon-impregnated gapless bushings are a cheap, proven way to fix this problem... and like many UUC parts, these have a lifetime warranty.
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NOT with that company any more.
I'd love the pedal to be level with the brake pedal. Oddly enough records show the previous owner complained to the dealer about it, to of course only be told it was by design not level with the other pedals. On longer trips though, having the pedal up higher is nice to kick your feet out when on the highway.
UUC, Welcome to Georgia.
Last edited by adonnan; 07-07-2009 at 11:36 AM.
"If the Corvette is a rebellious child of the extended automotive family, the M coupe is the blackest of sheep." - via Car & Driver
The Ron Stygar solution is cheap, works great and the pedals are all the same height.
GAAAH! You're right, I mis-spoke.
They are UHMW. We use the delrin for other stuff. The UHMW is comparable to delrin-af, but is better suited for the tough environment of that little bushing.
UHMW details:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_h...t_polyethylene
Ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE), also known as high-modulus polyethylene (HMPE) or high-performance polyethylene (HPPE), is a subset of the thermoplastic polyethylene. It has extremely long chains, with molecular weight numbering in the millions, usually between 2 and 6 million. The longer chain serves to transfer load more effectively to the polymer backbone by strengthening intermolecular interactions. This results in a very tough material, with the highest impact strength of any thermoplastic presently made. It is highly resistant to corrosive chemicals, with exception of oxidizing acids. It has extremely low moisture absorption, has a very low coefficient of friction, is self-lubricating, and is highly resistant to abrasion (15 times more resistant to abrasion than carbon steel). Its coefficient of friction is significantly lower than that of nylon and acetal, and is comparable to that of Teflon, but UHMWPE has better abrasion resistance than Teflon. It is odorless, tasteless, and nontoxic.
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NOT with that company any more.
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