As with some of the other's on the board I had the same issue with fuel starve at around 1/2 tank or slightly less in my E46 330. 95% of the time was around long sweeping right hand turns such as big bend at LRP. I started looking for a solution and found out about the M3 fuel baffle that can be dropped into the tank for about $16 and decided to go for it. The other option is the dual pump setup from Bimmerworld, but you loose your factory fuel gauge which was not an option for me. The part # needed for this project is 16 11 2 229 656. I ordered mine from realoem.com and had it about a week later.
Tools and parts needed:
E46 M3 fuel baffle part #16 11 2 229 656
Small hose clamp
10mm socket and ratchet
wire cutters
misc. flat head screwdrivers
hammer
First thing's first is to gain access to the rear seat area.
To do so lift up on the front edge of the rear seat. There are clips on each side. Then Pull forward and remove the rear seat bottom from the car.
You'll be left with this.
From here, locate the pass side round cover with the wire going into as shown below.
Lift the cover and remove the 4 nuts with the 10mm socket and ratchet.
Next you need to remove the electrical connection for the pump/gauge.
To do so, slide the outer part of the connector to the left, this will release the plug so you can remove it.
Next remove the fuel line. You will need to cut the clamp off of it. This is where you will use your small hose clamp when you put things back together. Some fuel will leak out of the line when it is removed, so be ready.
After that, you can then remove the pump. To do so, use a screwdriver and hammer to tap the metal ring counter clockwise to release the pump. Once this is done remove the fuel pump from the car. You will then be looking at this.
Look straight down into the tank and you will see a black hose that goes into the plastic tray on the bottom on the right hand side. Remove the hose from the tray. It will go into the new fuel baffle once it is installed. To install the new baffle simply, drop it into the existing plastic baffle. It will clip in on the right hand side. once it is in, slide the black hose into the top of the new baffle.
Then put everything back in as it came apart and your good to go. I did mine with 1/2 tank of fuel still in the car. I would highly advise running your tank down before doing this. it is much easier the less gas you have in it. Please feel free to contact me with any questions.
Jay
07 Toyota Tundra 5.7
96 Spec Miata
Boston Chapter - BMWCCA
Nice work Jay.
You might want to add:
1. Disconnect the battery?
2. Have a fire extinguisher OUTSIDE the car ready to go.
3. Wet towels ready??
Chris
#175 CM E46 M3
Former Knee Dragger
Real name= Chris P. Lewis
Occupation= Green House Gas Creator, but I planted a GARDEN last year.
"When you live inside a vacuum, nothing sucks"
http://flickr.com/photos/8150451@N03...7602830737584/
Nice write up.
It's way easier to fool with the fuel tank when the tank is near empty.
2002 M3
2011 M3
2016 X5 40e
Nice DIY, instructions and pics make it look like something i could do. But can i ask when you say, "Next remove the fuel line. You will need to cut the clamp off of it"
Is it a plastic or metal clamp? and if cut i guess you just need to replace it after? I guess i might as well get a new rubber gasket while at it.
E46 330Ci: Umnitza P46 Headlights + Custom LED Halos; Eagle Eye smoked taillights; LEDs fogs; M3 bonnet conversion; M-Sport Front & Rear bumper; Replica M3 mirrors: Rear lip spoiler; Carbon fibre strut brace; Aluminium rear strut brace; H&R Sway Bars; LSD 3.15 ratio; F30 front & rear Brembo BBK conversion; ECU Remap; F32 Front Seats; GROM Audio
It is one of those metal one time use clamps. I just replaced it with a standard metal screw clamp.
Jay
07 Toyota Tundra 5.7
96 Spec Miata
Boston Chapter - BMWCCA
Another note. If you are replacing it with a standard worm drive clamp, make sure its one that does not have the gear exposed on the underside. If it is you will cut the fuel line when you tighten the clamp.
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