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#1
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Adjustable end link install?
Finally got some adjustable front sway bar end links (Ground Control) to go with the H&R sway bar.
I've read many times on these forums about the dreaded preload if you don't have adjustable end links ... and of course now I can't seem to find a thread on how to install them properly. Any help?
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'97 M3/4 Cosmos Black
UUC RSC36 exhaust ASA R1 17x9 with 255/40/17 Dunlop Z1* H&R F/R Sways, Ground Control Adj End Links, Ground Control RSM, Treehouse Racing FCAB, XBrace M3 Sedan Club #34 my blog jpowell.blogs.com South Bend, IN |
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#2
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1. install links
2. Set car on ground and drive around to settle suspension 3. Drive up on ramps if necessary and adjust the length of the link so that the swaybar end is parallel with the ground, as a factory setup would be. Pretty easy to do really, I suggest drizzling some blue loctite on the jam nuts on either side of the swaybar link after you make the adjustment. I had one loosen up on me once. |
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#3
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Expanding a little.
Start by making sure both links are the same length and in the middle of the adjustment range. When you raise the front, make sure you have the four wheels in a single plane. I do this when I scale my car - it ensures that all four tires are corner weighted properly and that they are on a perfectly flat plane. You can probably reach the link fine when the front is raised 2-4". 4" was easy for me. 2" might work fine. Regardless, all four wheels need to be in the same plane. Loosen the adjustment nuts on one link all the way. With the car raised on a platform (much easier, but may be able to reach then when on the ground - depends on how dropped your car is.) reach around the tire and shorten the link until it starts to bind. Then lengthen the link, while counting revolutions until you get the same amount of bind. Shorten it half the number of turns between short and long. Tighten the jam nuts. If you can't get it to work with just one side, you make need to lengthen or shorten the other side a bit so you can get the side you are adjusting to "feel" right when alternately shortening and lengthening the link.
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- Ian
2000 M Coupe, stripped and DE prepped 46mm wheel bearing socket for rent - $30 deposit + $10 fee. PM for details. Last edited by osborni; 05-28-2009 at 09:42 AM.. |
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#4
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1) Adjust one of the GC endlinks to approximately the same length as the OE endlink. Tenths of an inch aren't critical. Helps to have the heim joints facing the same direction. Lock the adjustments and install that one. If you're right handed put it on the right side of the car.
2) Adjust the 2nd GC endlink to the same length but leave the locking nuts loose. This is the one you'll adjust to remove any preload. Install it on the car. 3) Set the car on the ground, drive it back and forward several feet to settle the suspension. Using ramps will make it a little easier to get to the endlink but not required. Just remember the weight of the car must stay on the suspension. You cannot jack it up for access. 4) Have someone of your approximate weight sit in the driver's seat. Reach around from the rear of the tire and turn the center tube of the endlink one way or the other until you can feel no resistance. There will be a point where the tube is easy to turn. If you go too far in either direction it will become harder to turn because you're adding preload. That center point is what you want. 5) Once you have it adjusted you'll have to jack up that corner, remove the wheel and tighten the lock nuts on the endlink. Any time you have the car aligned you should disconnect one of the endlinks so as not to add preload while making alignment adjustments. After the alignment the endlink may have to be readjusted. I always make adjustments on the driver's side. After initial installation I don't have to touch the pass side. Jay
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