How to pack wheel bearings with grease?

[Greg S]

I bought new FAG wheel bearings all around for my car. I also bought Redline CV2 grease with the idea of repacking them(as RRT does). I got the dust cover(orange) off one side of the rear bearing but I can't figure out how to disassemble it. Do you remove the plastic ball bearing holder so the ball bearings are free floating and then remove the inner race? An SKF bearing I have here on my desk comes right apart. Also, it appears the other dust cover(black) won't come off, any tricks?

I actually haven't looked at the front bearings yet, is it possible to repack those also?

I'd like to totally disassemble the bearings so I can remove all the factory grease and run just the Redline grease as I hear some greases are incompatible.


Here's what James from RRT had to say

You have to be careful dismantling the FAG bearings these days. They have plastic barbs inside that hold the inner races in the bearing, while the older SKF bearings came right apart. I can only get FAG bearings now, so all of them (E36, E30, M3/non M alike) are pretty tough to open up without damaging anything.

[osborni]

Take out the plastic thing, then the races should just pull out.
Use spray cleaner to get the old grease out. I used a syringe to pack the bearings with CV2.
When you assemble the races and bearing onto the axle, put more grease on the inner race where it faces the balls.

[n2bimmer]

I used WD-40 to clean out greease on my strut mounts. Its easy, fast and effective.

[szed]

That black cover is a magnetic piece for the wheel speed sensor. I believe if you remove that you have to press the bearing apart to put it back together. Not completely sure on that though. Also that plastic ball bearing cage didn't look very easy to take out and looked like the inner race has to be pressed off. I don't have my old wheel bearings to take a look at it anymore.

FWIW I just added Sta Lube Molygraph grease to the existing grease as there was very little in there.

[Greg S]

Take out the plastic thing, then the races should just pull out.
Use spray cleaner to get the old grease out. I used a syringe to pack the bearings with CV2.
When you assemble the races and bearing onto the axle, put more grease on the inner race where it faces the balls.

I tried to remove the plastic spacer earlier but couldn't, I'll give it another shot later. It's hard to tell exactly what's keeping the plastic piece in, I don't want to break it obviously. Is your experience with FAG bearings or another brand? Seems like some are easier to disassemble than others.

I used WD-40 to clean out greease on my strut mounts. Its easy, fast and effective.

Totally unrelated .

That black cover is a magnetic piece for the wheel speed sensor. I believe if you remove that you have to press the bearing apart to put it back together. Not completely sure on that though. Also that plastic ball bearing cage didn't look very easy to take out and looked like the inner race has to be pressed off. I don't have my old wheel bearings to take a look at it anymore.

FWIW I just added Sta Lube Molygraph grease to the existing grease as there was very little in there.

I agree, the plastic doesn't look very easy(or possible?) to take out. I wonder if there's some way to test if the 2 greases are compatible.

[n2bimmer]

^^ The front strut mount has bearings just like the wheel bearing.

[Greg S]

Mixing WD-40 with grease is not the solution, trust me on that.

I just disassembled an original front wheel bearing, I figured out what's keeping the inner race in. The plastic bearing cage has a 'one way' lip on the inside that grabs the inner race once it's inserted. So the inner race isn't coming out, looks like I need to research a solvent that will dissolve the grease, but not hurt the rubber dust boots and plastic cage. Maybe B9 ChemDip? Any ideas?

[eye145]

Did some Googling and came up with this, the grease in the wheel bearings, both FAG and SKF from what I can tell are "LGMT-2" grease. Now you need to find a grease that is compatable if you dont want to clean out the bearing. I ran across a compatability chart a while back and will try to dig that up again. Some grease should not be mixed with others.
I found some info on SKF's website, also gives you the formula to figure out how much grease to pack in bearing. Some racers may not be concerned, but to much grease actually slows lap times a little. probably not to worry about at the club level however, to little grease will slow you down quicker than to much if ya catch my drift.
SKF.com / Products / Interactive Engineering Catalogue / Bearing units / Two-bearing units / Two-bearing unitsLubricationThe two-bearing units are charged with the SKF grease LGMT 2. This is a high-quality lithium base grease with mineral oil base which has good rust inhibiting properties. The operating temperature range is –30 to +110 °C.
The units can be relubricated in operation. There is no danger of over-lubrication as excess grease is conveyed by the grease valve to the middle of the housing where there is plenty of space for it to accummulate.
Relubrication
Preferably the SKF grease LGMT 2 should be used for relubrication (fig 13). The SKF grease LGMT 3 is also suitable.

The grease quantity required for the relubrication of one bearing can be estimated using

G = 0,005 D B

where
G= grease quantity, gD= bearing outside diameter, mmB= bearing width, mmThe length of the relubrication interval depends on

–bearing type and size,–rotational speed,–operating temperature and–the grease used.More detailed information can be found in the section "Relubrication intervals" of the catalogue "Rolling bearings".


Found SKF's compatibility chart here on page 3 : http://www.skf.com/files/258888.pdf
FAG Grease list , last set of numbers in FAG parts number ie: L### is the grease code for said bearing http://www.ahrinternational.com/FAG_GREASE.shtml

[Greg S]

Thanks for the info, I've been researching what grease FAG uses also. I've basically narrowed it down to a FAG Arcanol grease

CV2: http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads...e%20doc001.doc

FAG Greases: http://www.fis-services.de/site/en/p...etes_Fett.html

Compatability chart: http://www.mindconnection.com/librar...easecompat.htm

[bmellott]

I thought these on BMW where sealed assemblies. Bearing bad replace hub done

[ffej]

He's taking a new bearing and repacking it with a more robust grease, not trying to re-grease a spent unit

[SunzOut]

Try one of these...worked great on my trailer bearings.

you fill it with grease, then insert the bearing and install the top. you then compress the top and it forces grease through the bearing.

http://www.autobarn.net/hanpacbearpa.html

[Greg S]

I figured it out, all it takes is a little dental pick type tool to release the "one way" lip, then it comes apart 90%. I got one done and I'll do the other rear tomorrow. I'll try to take some photos of it tomorrow on how to do it. I'll probably try to do the same thing to the fronts.

EDIT-B9 chemdip is evil, evil stuff.

[eye145]

Thanks for the info, I've been researching what grease FAG uses also. I've basically narrowed it down to a FAG Arcanol grease

CV2: http://www.redlineoil.com.au/Uploads...e%20doc001.doc

FAG Greases: http://www.fis-services.de/site/en/p...etes_Fett.html

Compatability chart: http://www.mindconnection.com/librar...easecompat.htm

GregS, good find on FAG page.
I guess the info we really need is the base ingredients for compatibility purposes? Should be able to mix with any Lithium based or compatable grease and be OK.
FAG: Arconal L71V Thickner: Lithium soap Base Oil: Mineral oil
SKF: LGMT-2 Thickner: Lithium soap Base Oil: Mineral oil
So when fully cleaning out the bearing for race purposes. What kind of grease or brand would be considered an improvement ie: less friction / higher temp?

[Greg S]

What kind of grease or brand would be considered an improvement ie: less friction / higher temp?

I came across this earlier.
http://www.fis-services.de/gen/en/do...n_WL81115E.pdf
Pg 27 of the PDF(labeled as page 26 on the bottom of the page).

[B.Watts]

Good thread. We've had GREAT bearing life on our cars while running repacked bearings, even while running big slicks and making more grip than most club racing cars.

[gdeangel]

I came across this earlier.
http://www.fis-services.de/gen/en/do...n_WL81115E.pdf
Pg 27 of the PDF(labeled as page 26 on the bottom of the page).

Very good information.

Also, if you look on page 40 of the link above, it details grease compatibility as well.

When I repacked my bearings I used Mobil 1 (PAO base stock) which appears to be compatible with the mineral oil grease originally used.

[ffej]

Good thread. We've had GREAT bearing life on our cars while running repacked bearings, even while running big slicks and making more grip than most club racing cars.

Okay, are you going to share with the rest of us unwashed masses which grease you're using?

[B.Watts]

Okay, are you going to share with the rest of us unwashed masses which grease you're using?

Whatever RRT uses, which I believe is the Redline CV2 mentioned in the first post. They are still a wear item that should be replaced regularly, but a little extra insurance never hurt anyone. I'd much rather spend extra $$ and replace bearings in the off season whether they are shot or not than have to replace one in the paddock at a race.

[autocross97]

I figured it out, all it takes is a little dental pick type tool to release the "one way" lip, then it comes apart 90%. I got one done and I'll do the other rear tomorrow. I'll try to take some photos of it tomorrow on how to do it. I'll probably try to do the same thing to the fronts.

EDIT-B9 chemdip is evil, evil stuff.

i'm looking at on on my desk with the outer red seal off, but cant figure out how to get the rear wheel bearing apart any further. pictures would be awesome


edit, got the inner black seal off now i'm on to the next step

[eye145]

Anybody use NEO grease. I think I am going to look into getting some and give it a try.
Application: NEO RPS HP800 was designed specifically for precision rolling element bearings in high performance racing.

Specification:
N.G.L.I Grade - EP #1½
Base Stock - Synthetic Complex
Modified Drop Test in House - 427°C (800° F)
Operating Range - -32°C - 425°C (-25°F - 800° F)
Timkin OK Load - 27+ kgs (60+ pounds)
Shell 4 Ball EP Weld Load - 350Kg

[Greg S]

All the bearings I used were FAG, other brands may be harder, but probably easier. I repacked them with Redline CV2 grease, which is what RRT uses.

Rear Wheel Bearing:
First off I used a razor blade to pry the dust cover open to slide a small flat head screw driver into, and then pried the red cover off. If the screw driver deformed the dust boot a little use some pliers to straighten it back.


Then I inserted the pick in like so, and then pried it against the inner race, while pulling up on the inner race. That should release the 'one way' clamp. If it doesn't, rotate it 180* and do the same thing.


Take the bearings and plastic cage out together, and clean the grease out between the two inner races with your finger. Insert the pick in again like so, and pry it against the inner race, while seperating the outer race from the inner race. If that doesn't work, rotate it 180*.


Use the pick tool like so and run it around the inner perimeter of the outer race to pop the ball bearings out of the plastic cage. I left the plastic cage in on the black side of the bearing while I cleaned it.


Clean everything with LOTS of brake parts cleaner(I used brakleen red, green didn't work as well). I probably used 1 can per bearing. Then put lots of grease everywhere, starting on the black side. Assemble the bearing as you add the grease. I kept the black and red bearings separate through the whole process, they're probably the same but you never know.


Once done press the two inner races together and clean out the grease that squeezes through in between the two inner races.


Front Wheel Bearing:
This is how I removed the dust boot on the front wheel bearing. With a small flat head screwdriver press in towards the center of the bearing while prying upwards. You'll have to rotate it 60*, pry a little, rotate some more, repeat... baby steps. Once it gets close to the top I reverted back to the way I did the rears with the razor blade and screw driver. Once it's off everything else is the same. It can be a PITA to get the dust boot back on though.


This is the amount of grease the fronts were packed with, it seemed more than what the rears came with.

[tammer]

Excellent. Thanks!

-tammer

[eye145]

Nice write-up. Thanks for taking the time to snap all the photos!

[szed]

Thanks Greg! A+ thread!