Rear E39 Wheel Bearings Installed! FINALLY!

[cdb3113]

I got around to finishing this detail off last week. Took me three days of meandering. My intention was to pull the shafts out and do the rear diff bushings at the same time, but alas... I couldn't get the differential out without dropping the exhaust. So, since I had the Midwest Meet that weekend I put it back together. I will post only the things pertaining to rear wheel bearing replacement here.

Anyways, I followed the great DIY done by a fellow member here, mm635. Everything was spot on, and it was easy to follow. So, I will post some pics of my process. I used a couple different tools to get the same results as others. I rented a 3 jaw puller and the clamp thing that got the inner race off the flange. I recommend getting them before starting the job. Also USE NEW BOLTS. They are cheap.

Job really wasn't hard, except for getting the race off the flange without proper tools. Heat didn't work.


First, I pulled the wheels off. I used a flathead screwdriver to mash out the tabs on the axle nut, and removed the nut with a 36mm socket and a large cheater (I have a broken finger, so I took the easy way out often).
The three jaw puller I rented worked well for pushing the axle into the knuckle. This was necessary so that you can get your socket wrench on the wheel bearing bolts. Otherwise, there isn't enough room.


It is important to note that I ended up using my floor jack to raise the suspension on the side I was working on until the half shaft was level. This frees up the axle in the flange, so you don't really have to press hard to get it out. At that height, it also lets you get into the top two bolts a LOT easier.



Next, I pulled off the bearing from the flange. It came apart messily, and left the inner outside race on the flange. That got dealt with in a myriad ways, until one worked.




I converted the 3 jaw to a 2 jaw puller for pulling the bearing and the race.




It was incredibly easy to install the wheel bearings with the halfshafts out... hehehe.



So, That is really all the pics I have. After the bearings were bolted in and torqued to 22lb-ft each, with red threadlock, I followed more of the above DIY. Lined up the axle and flange so that the flange stayed in place. Set up a 4x6 and grabbed my 3lb dead blow hammer. Hammered the flange evenly into the bearing, while checking alignment continually, and ensuring that the flange splines mated on teh axle nicely.

I threw the rotor on, then the wheel, then lowered the car and went to bed. That part is important, because on the last night I worked on it from 1AM -5AM (with people distracting me while drinking Corona). Sleep was awesome, expecially knowing this job was done!!


Impressions?? My float appears to be gone. Car drives very much like new. At the meet the next day, that seemed to be the overwhelming opinion. Rides smooth, and like new. I don't get the "being pushed by non-existant wind" feeling anymore!!!

Oh yes. This was interesting. I think it happened while pulling the rest of the bearing off the flange... but not sure. Crazy!

[gottabethejays]

nice work

[Jason5driver]

From your pictures, did you just use a breaker bar and a large socket as a spacer between the 2-jaw puller and the bearing, in order to pull the bearing off?
(See below)

Do you think a slide-hammer would have worked?

Next, I pulled off the bearing from the flange. It came apart messily, and left the inner outside race on the flange. That got dealt with in a myriad ways, until one worked.

[cdb3113]

From your pictures, did you just use a breaker bar and a large socket as a spacer between the 2-jaw puller and the bearing, in order to pull the bearing off?
(See below)

Do you think a slide-hammer would have worked?

The slide hammer I had did not reach. It takes a lot of force to pull the bearing and then the flange off.

That was a 1 1/2" socket with a 3/4-1/2" drive adapter backwards in it, so my 1/2" breaker bar fit in it. The back of the breaker bar head had a dimple on it that I used for the gear puller to sit into. I ended up starting the pull, then taking things apart and using washers in between the flange and socket. My socket was the same size as the flange, and I didn't want to pull the bearing race off the socket too!

[RJLupin]

Sweet Even though I drove it just around the lot, I felt it tight .. thanks for letting the step guy drive the schtick

Love the tools .. you da man

[mmm635]

Awesome...job well done. It is like driving a new car again.

[cdb3113]

Awesome...job well done. It is like driving a new car again.

The wandering is gone, the stability is back, and the turn in is instant now. It was hard to tell, but I had thought I could feel the rear shifting sideways... now I know it was! Weird bearing failure, really. The passenger rear bearing rolled totally smooth; no spalls or dirt in it. Just axial play, a lot of it. Crazy!

It really is a new car again.

[larinah]

Ok, I drove this car and holly crap it rides better than
a new car, but mine still shifts better .

Anyway, Chris Ill hit you up when I save up for the
suspension parts, I can drive down there. Ill pay ya
for helping me.

[cdb3113]

Ok, I drove this car and holly crap it rides better than
a new car, but mine still shifts better .

Anyway, Chris Ill hit you up when I save up for the
suspension parts, I can drive down there. Ill pay ya
for helping me.

Just lemme know so we can schedule some time!

[E39Convert]

I'm have trouble with this part: "...grab a breaker bar and 36mm socket and loosen the nut to wear it just breaks free..." I unstaked the nut, I've got an 18" breaker bar and put all my weight into it, hit it with PB Blaster, let it soak overnight, hit it with my 19.2V impact wrench, more PB Blaster, and breaker bar again...and still no luck.
What's the secret?

[oekundar]

I'm have trouble with this part: "...grab a breaker bar and 36mm socket and loosen the nut to wear it just breaks free..." I unstaked the nut, I've got an 18" breaker bar and put all my weight into it, hit it with PB Blaster, let it soak overnight, hit it with my 19.2V impact wrench, more PB Blaster, and breaker bar again...and still no luck.
What's the secret?

more muscle? Your 18" breaker bar might not be enough leverage...find a pipe if you can to increase your leverage and you should be able to easily get it off.

[MaxVQ]

The wandering is gone, the stability is back, and the turn in is instant now. It was hard to tell, but I had thought I could feel the rear shifting sideways... now I know it was! Weird bearing failure, really. The passenger rear bearing rolled totally smooth; no spalls or dirt in it. Just axial play, a lot of it. Crazy!

Did you happen to check for bearing play at the wheels when the car was jack up? If so, was there any?

[cdb3113]

Did you happen to check for bearing play at the wheels when the car was jack up? If so, was there any?

If you are referring to before I changed the wheel bearings, then yes, there was play. I was having trouble figuring out where it was coming from though.

more muscle? Your 18" breaker bar might not be enough leverage...find a pipe if you can to increase your leverage and you should be able to easily get it off.

I wonder if he pulled out the tabs on the nut? There are tabs that hold it in place, you gotta pull em' out first so that the nut can turn. Check that first, then add more force! I had a breaker bar and a 24" piece of pipe on it to loosen the nuts.

[E39Convert]

Thanks! I've pried out the tabs, so I'll just need to get the longer bar out and go at it again later.

[cdb3113]

Thanks! I've pried out the tabs, so I'll just need to get the longer bar out and go at it again later.

Any luck?

[E39Convert]

No luck so far. I got more muscle, more breaker bar, more PB Blaster, more 19.2V impact wrench, heated the nut with MAPP gas, and the stupid thing still doesn't budge. Am I out of options short of taking it to a shop to bust it loose or maybe even do the whole job since I've got the parts?

[cdb3113]

No luck so far. I got more muscle, more breaker bar, more PB Blaster, more 19.2V impact wrench, heated the nut with MAPP gas, and the stupid thing still doesn't budge. Am I out of options short of taking it to a shop to bust it loose or maybe even do the whole job since I've got the parts?

Shops are going to charge by the hour... I dunno, I understand your frustration... but myself, I'd keep hittin' at it.

[E39Convert]

Strike all that...perseverance pays off...that and a longer breaker bar!

By the way nice tire tracks in the snow...what tires are you running for the winter?

[cdb3113]

Strike all that...perseverance pays off...that and a longer breaker bar!

By the way nice tire tracks in the snow...what tires are you running for the winter?

Me? Bastard setup, since she doesn't really drive in teh winter unless the 4runner is down. Yokohama Ice Guards up front, slighty stretched (they were on sale), and 235/45/17 blizzak LM25's on the rear. I wore out two of the blizzaks last year (the rears last 1.5 seasons), thats why I have mismatched tires. The summer tires are on my style 19 wheels in the garage.