E36 M3 Powersteering Leak Fixed...reservior relocated.

[vinnymac]

One of the things that drove me nuts for years was the powersteering reservior location and leaky hoses on my E36 race car. The factory hoses will eventually leak. I replaced the factory hose with a new one and removed the crimp fittings and used clamps. They worked fine for awhile and then started to leak again. I also hated where the factory reservior was as it was difficult to access and a mess to drain and fill.

I decided to relocate the reservior...well, actually replaced it with an aftermarket can and used AN fittings to eliminate all the leaks. Here's how it turned out.

I installed the new reservior behind the passenger side headlight for easy access. It's a Canton Racing unit with AN-10 and AN-6 fittings with internal baffles. It's a nice part and it fits perfectly in this location. I drilled two small holes in the frame rail and shimmed the mounting clamp with some washers.



I used a Mocal banjo fitting with an AN-10 end to replace the factory banjo line. I reused the factory banjo bolt and washers.


I used an Earl's compressing fitting on the small return line after I cut the flared end off the factory line. The smallest output they had was AN-8 so I used a AN-8 to AN-6 union and a 180 degree AN-6 swivel fitting to allow easier routing of the hose to the new reservior. You can still see the old hoses that I have not yet removed.


I used rubber lined adel clamps to secure the hoses and ensure nothing would vibrate on anything. I also made sure the fittings would not come in contact with the front sway bar as it moved with suspension travel.


So far so good. No leaks. PS fluid levels are easy to check and I'm quite pleased with the results.

Here's the parts list:

Canton Racing 77-252 - Universal Power Steering Tank w/Mounting Hardware - 10-AN Bottom & 6-AN Side Port Male Fittings (cheapest place I found was www.hrpworld.com)
Mocal Metric Banjo to -AN Hose adapter 16mm to 10-AN BJ1610H (www.batinc.net/mocal.htm)
10-AN 45 Degree Swivel Fitting - Earl's Part #804610 (www.anplumbing.com)
6-AN 90 Degree Swivel-seal Fitting - Earl's Part #809106 (www.anplumbing.com)
6-AN 180 Degree Swivel Fitting - Earl's Part #818006 (www.anplumbing.com)
8-AN - 6-AN Union Reducer - Earl's Part #991912 (www.anplumbing.com)
Hardline Tubing Adapter/Compression Fitting 8-AN to 1/2" Hardline - Earl's Part #165008 (www.anplumbing.com)
10-AN Stainless Braided Line - Earl's Part #400100 (www.anplumbing.com) --- You'll need 3-4ft depending on your hose routing and reservior location.
6-AN Stainless Braided Line - Earl's Part #400060 (www.anplumbing.com) --- You'll need 3-4ft depending on your hose routing and reservior location.
Teflon Tape

[///M3Augy]

That looks great.

[bjl4776]

It looks really good. Those damn P/S lines always leak and that resevior is a PITA to get too. I wold appreciate a parts list for this, Ill have to do this once the rest of the motor is sorted out.

[vinnymac]

It looks really good. Those damn P/S lines always leak and that resevior is a PITA to get too. I wold appreciate a parts list for this, Ill have to do this once the rest of the motor is sorted out.

Parts list posted.

[farzad97m3]

Now thats clean, This will go on my to do list right now!

[scottbm3]

Parts list posted.

Vince,

You have to much free time on your hands. Looks good, also looking forward to looking over your diff cooler set-up. See you in a few weeks.


-Scott B.

[vinnymac]

Vince,

You have to much free time on your hands. Looks good, also looking forward to looking over your diff cooler set-up. See you in a few weeks.


-Scott B.

Ha. Definitely looking forward to hanging out in a couple weeks. Talk to you soon!

[Greg S]

Awesome, what did all the parts end up costing you?

[BJO]

looks good.

[MIMI1]

genius solution

[OppLock1]

i wish this was here two weeks ago, before i changed replaced my P.S. lines with factory. probably would have saved going this route.... +1

[Def]

Looks good. The only thing I'd change is to ditch the compression fitting on the rack and flare the hardline and use a tube nut and sleeve. You'll probably use the flaring tool in the future as it's a pretty handy thing to be able to do.

[jrtcbmw]

very nice set up. i like it a lot.

my ps lines started leaking a couple months after i replaced them. now the rack is leaking somewhere.

when i get around to replacing my rack this summer, i think im gonna do something like your set up.

[vinnymac]

Looks good. The only thing I'd change is to ditch the compression fitting on the rack and flare the hardline and use a tube nut and sleeve. You'll probably use the flaring tool in the future as it's a pretty handy thing to be able to do.

That's a great idea. I may try that if I have any issues with the compression fitting. It's low pressure so it should be OK, but thank you for the great suggestion.

Do you have any links to tube nut/sleeve fittings that can be adapted to accept an AN fitting?

Thanks.

[BadBoostedBmwM3]

I just replaced all of my factory hoses like 3 months ago.... BUT when they start to leak I will be replacing everything with your setup!!!

[vinnymac]

Awesome, what did all the parts end up costing you?

I'd have to pull the receipts to remember the exact cost...but here's an estimate:

Canton PS tank ~ $120
Mocal banjo fitting $35
Braided lines ~ $35
AN swivel fittings ~ $75

So...roughly $275 give or take once you factor in shipping fees.

[M13]

Great solution to a P.I.T.A issue.

[99MPower]

VERY nice... :

[Bud Scott]

I'm happy to see at least ONE of the STL BMW racers using aerospace quality stuff and techniques in their race car installations.

Looks good!

[MCoupeVet]

good idea - good work

[Def]

That's a great idea. I may try that if I have any issues with the compression fitting. It's low pressure so it should be OK, but thank you for the great suggestion.

Do you have any links to tube nut/sleeve fittings that can be adapted to accept an AN fitting?

Thanks.

Sorry, didn't see this when it was posted.

Just search "tube nut" or "tube sleeve" on SummitRacing.

Here's what they look like(should have both a sleeve and a nut on the pic). Just pick the size AN fitting you want, it doesn't matter if the sleeve isn't really tight on the tube from a pressure holding standpoint(i.e. metric/SAE size differences).

[will v]

Great write up -- I know the thread go back a bit but I just wanted to add one correction to the parts list for anyone who is copying your install. Which I did.

The hardline to 8an adapter is listed with the wrong part number. What you want is the same type of fitting but in the female version. Part # 165108. This is the correct part to go from the hard line to the 8an to 6an reducer - as that part is male on both sides.

Thanks again for the great write up

[/QUOTE]Hardline Tubing Adapter/Compression Fitting 8-AN to 1/2" Hardline - Earl's Part #165008 (www.anplumbing.com)
[/QUOTE]

[BJO]

vinnymac, what coolant expansion tank are you using?

[clopez95m3]

vinnymac, what coolant expansion tank are you using?

That's the Zionsville one (in his pics).

Carlos.

[Michael9218]

I just completed this modification and thought I would post my alterations to Vinny's original post.

I chose to keep the reservoir on the intake side of the motor and also chose to use a braze weld fitting. For the braze weld fitting you will need a steel 8AN male weld-on fitting. I drilled this out to 15/32" about 1/2" deep. This provided a nice tight fit for the braze welding. I also replicated the factory pressure reducer by taking an M10 bolt that I drilled a 3/16" hole the length of the shaft and then cut a 1/2" piece off, filed it to fit the id of the trombone and inserted it in the trombone and crimped it in place. I then braze welded the 8AN male fitting on the end.