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Thread: .: Replacing the Ignition Impulse Sender

  1. #1
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    .: Replacing the Ignition Impulse Sender

    Symptom - no spark from the ignition coil.
    Cause - ignition impulse sender failure

    Took some pics.

    Ye old Ignition Distributor


    Remove retaining clips.


    Remove ignition rotor


    Remove protective cover (if any)


    Unplug Impulse Pickup wire to Ignition Coil


    Loosen retaining bolts (10mm) and remove distributor


    Vacuum Regulator


    Unscrew Vacuum Regulator retaining screws


    Vacuum Regulator Arm is held by a round retaining pin. Push down on the arm to remove the Vacuum Regulator


    Next up, the Circlip and washer that holds the Impulse Sending Wheel in place.


    Use a circlip remover. However, the tool's pins are not small enough to fit into the circlip's holes. Had to grind them down with a Dremel tool.


    The circlip and the "corrugated", i.e. wave washer.


    Watch out for this little sucker. It's a tiny dowel pin that can easily get lost. (Ask me how).


    The Factory Service Manual recommends using two flathead screwdrivers from opposite sides to act as levers to raise the wheel.


    The Impulse Sending Wheel removed.


    There's another circlip under the wheel. Remove that too. Same as the other circlip.


    Next up, the plastic surround the covers the Impulse Sender's connectors. Remove that screw.


    Gently pull the plastic piece off.


    to be continued...

  2. #2
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    another rebuild thread for the ignition distributor

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1138249

    Also, a dude asking how to do this:
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ibutor+rebuild
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  3. #3
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    You forgot to mention the part about polishing your dizzy housing...
    e21: 1981 2.5L sleeper
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  4. #4
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    Jester, the man was born with a silver distributor in his head. He's of a higher pedegree.

    BTW, I like the oil psi switch cover and harness thing you made..mine needs r and r.
    Last edited by waferman; 04-20-2009 at 11:13 PM.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jester323 View Post
    You forgot to mention the part about polishing your dizzy housing...
    LOL - that's for the advanced (or retarded?) class...

    Quote Originally Posted by waferman View Post
    Jester, the man was born with a silver distributor in his head. He's of a higher pedegree.

    BTW, I like the oil psi switch cover and harness thing you made..mine needs r and r.
    and now you chime in, you prodigal brother. what's up, man?

    The plastic housing removed... looks like the mask of a surprised Bionicle Toa (ask my son what that is)


    These are the last two screws that hold the Impulse Sender in place. Remove both these screws.


    How, pray tell? Like so, nutswingers.


    With both screws out, add some penetrating oil or motor oil to loosen up the sender. May open your 2nd beer at this point. Upon returning from your refrigerator/beer run, you can gently insert a small, rubber protected device thru the hole in the side where the Vacuum Regulator is attached to coax the sender up.


    And there's your Ignition Impulse Sender, or Pulse Generator, BMW Part Number 12 11 1 276 127.


    Thankfully, there isn't too much gunk inside the housing.


    And there you have it folks - the Ignition Distributor - Single Parts.



    For Reference from the RealOEM or Maximillian Website (their prices).


    Interestingly enough, by sheer coincidence, there's that other post on cleaning the Ignition Distributor. Hope both are helpful.

    Last thing: I had actually taken the Distributor apart before I started taking pictures. I posted the pictures in reverse, as they were taken when I installed the sender.
    Last edited by fullswing; 04-21-2009 at 12:21 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by fullswing View Post
    LOL - that's for the advanced (or retarded?) class...
    I take a lot of notes, does that qualify?

    Quote Originally Posted by fullswing
    Last thing: I had actually taken the Distributor apart before I started taking pictures. I posted the pictures in reverse, as they were taken when I installed the sender.
    and after you polished it!

    Nice work Jimbo! thanks for the Writeup. Sorry I couldn't keep from polluting it.

    Josh, DIY/FAQ material? If so, I'll delete my BS out of here.
    e21: 1981 2.5L sleeper
    e21: 1982 323i Baur TC 1 # 4210
    e21: 1980 323i project or parts car, can't decide
    e21: track car project
    e46: 325XiT

    click here for the latest updates

  7. #7
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    You continue to impress, Jimbo. I may do this soon as I think my dizzy is changing time on me..

    Sorry I've been gone, my cage-fighting career didn't take off after the divorce like I planned. Stupid training camp kicked me out...but I still have my in-trailer daycare so that's somthing to fall back on.



  8. #8
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    does it run now?
    -Josh


  9. #9
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    Man, excellent writeup. Sorry I was in a hurry before and just wanted to have another reference up there.

    Thank you for doing this - it's a quality writeup and I had always been intimidated by the thought of doing this procedure.
    Last edited by g323; 04-21-2009 at 01:28 AM.
    My Website

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    Under the Hood:

    M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
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  10. #10
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    The scary part is how shiny your distributor is.

  11. #11
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    Wow Jimbo, nice write up.

    How on earth did you think to check the dizzy for the problem, but specifically the hall sensor/unit?

    See you at lunch today.
    Last edited by BoostedE21; 04-21-2009 at 11:58 AM.

    E21 LEGION


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    Step 1) Swap to M42
    Step 2)


  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostedE21 View Post
    Wow Jimbo, nice write up.

    How on earth did you think to check the dizzy for the problem, but specifically the hall sensor/unit?

    See you at lunch today.
    x2..How'd u figure this out? I know you are a quick study, but...

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostedE21 View Post
    Wow Jimbo, nice write up.

    How on earth did you think to check the dizzy for the problem, but specifically the hall sensor/unit?

    See you at lunch today.
    I know! I wouldn't have known if not for some nutswinger that came over the house and helped me out.

    Yeah, see you at lunch.

    Quote Originally Posted by waferman View Post
    x2..How'd u figure this out? I know you are a quick study, but...
    LOL - two sources
    1. GDAus - an electrical genius that Graham
    2. BoostedE21 & his Dad

    Here's the email from Graham:

    Here's a simplified explanation of how a coil type igniton system works ...

    First the coil:
    - it has 2 windings inside it (coils of wire), one inside the other: a low voltage winding and a high voltage winding

    Low Voltage Winding
    - one end of the low volt side is connected to the +ve terminal.
    - the other end of low volt side is connected to the -ve terminal.

    High Voltage Winding
    - the high voltage winding has one end also connected to the -ve terminal
    - the other end is the high voltage connector where the lead plugs in for the distributor cap.

    So .. to test the coil electrically .....

    Test 1) Measure the coil's resistance with the coil connected and the ignition off
    Low Voltage Winding - measure resistance across both positive and negative terminals. The resistance should be < 1~2 ohms for a coil designed for a transistor type ignition.
    High Voltage Winding - measure resistance from the Plug lead terminal to the -ve terminal. The resistance should be around 8 kilohms or a bit more.

    NOTE:
    1) A coil for a points type system will have a higher low volt winding resistance to limit the current flow through the coil to safe levels - the transistor ignition module can control the current directly so it can flow more current safely, giving a higher voltage output.

    2) In the case of "points" type ignition .. the points are the mechanical switch that opens and closes to give a pulse of current flowing through the low volt windings in the coil.

    In an electronic ignition system .. the switch is a one or more transistors (usually) set up to work as a switch, controlled by a switching pulse generated inside the distributor.

    The idea is that ... a magnetic field is generated around the low volt winding by the current flowing through it ... when the engine is cranked over ... the points or the transistor interupt the flow of current and the magnetic field collapses and you get a high voltage induced in the high voltage winding of the coil which is then directed to the spark plugs and you know the rest etc.



    Now .. back to the checking ....

    Test 2) When the ignition is on ... there should be +ve Battery voltage on both terminals of the coil from the start/run bus

    - if you have a really good meter then the -ve terminal will have a very slightly lower voltage

    Test 3) When when you crank the engine over .... you should still have whatever your battery voltage is as you crank.

    - The starter draws about 250 amps when it is turning over the engine ... so that drags down the battery voltage quite a bit .... I'd say that having 11.65 volts on the coil +ve during starting is reasonable .. particularly if you have had a few attempts. But of course the voltage should go back up over 12 volts when you release the starter.

    If you have voltage for both Test 2 and Test 3, the coil has a return path from the coil +ve to the battery.

    Next: In addition to voltage, the coil needs pulses of DC voltage and current from the Ignition Module (on the other side of the engine bay).

    For that to happen, the Ignition Module needs ...
    A) + and - power from the battery
    B) AC timing pulses from the distributor
    C) The wiring and connections between the coil, ignition module and distributor to be continuous.



    So ... this shows the connections to the ign module so you can see where to test for ..
    A) + and - voltage (brown to green) and ....
    B) AC pulses from the distributor (black and yellow on the right) and the -ve DC output pulses (black on the left)

    -----------------------------------------

    In my case, I had resistance and voltage across the coil, but no spark.

    I checked the Ignition Module as directed. Also had voltage but no AC pulses from the distributor.

    THEREFORE: the Ignition Pulse Generator/Sender needed replacement.

    I replaced it. Now I have spark.

    But no, the car hasn't started.

    I'm going to check the fuel delivery again next.
    Last edited by fullswing; 04-21-2009 at 09:05 PM.

  16. #16
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    I've said it before, but Amazing writeup man
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    Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
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  17. #17
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    Excellent DIY write-up. Just the way I like it--with plenty of pictures. Thanks.

  18. #18
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    lol .. Damn you Jimbo ..... you beat me to it

    I was going to expand that email and add some more general how to check tips and post it separately. I just wanted to try a few things to come up with some checks to show what to test first !

    Cheers Jimbo

    EDIT: I've come across a strange anomaly ... the North American 1980 + models 1.8 litre M10s with electronic ignition seem to have been fitted with a lower rated coil than the rest of the world models !

    So for a NA model - 3.1 ~ 4.5 kΩ is the correct value .... rest of the world models - something like 7.5 ~ 8.0 kΩ is the go.
    Last edited by GDAus; 04-30-2022 at 11:22 AM. Reason: Additional Information
    hmm .. Wonder what happens if I do this ...

  19. #19
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    That dowel is a pita.
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    Braking/Suspension:
    Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
    Body:
    087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
    Interior:
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  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by g323 View Post
    That dowel is a pita.
    told ya. which is why i mentioned it. the factory manual did too. what were they thinking to have something that small in there?

  21. #21
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    Beautiful work fullswing.

    I'm so glad mine has points and condensor. Some day I'll try to shine up my mess around here. Robert
    Tbd

  22. #22
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    This needs to be added to the parked "E21 FAQ and DIY" thread.

    Great write-up and pictures Jimbo and great info from you to Graham!
    Last edited by OLD MAN; 05-31-2009 at 12:28 PM.

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  23. #23
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    Found an old post from Ken D. which is relevant here for dist rebuilds:

    kdanielson
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    Get your OEM distributor working correctly. I recommend complete disassembly for [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]cleaning[/COLOR][/COLOR] and lubrication. When you reassemble it add some small shims between the distributor body and the drive gear until you have only .005" end play-check it with a feeler gauge.

    ken

    __________________
    http://www.kengineering.info
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ight=ken+shims

    I hope he comments on this, where can you get these shims?
    My Website

    1982 323i

    Under the Hood:

    M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
    Braking/Suspension:
    Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
    Body:
    087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
    Interior:
    Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge

  24. #24
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    great write up!

  25. #25
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    A very educational and informative thread! Thanks fullswing! It sure beats the heck out of paying 40k for a college education. (Seriously)

    Now... if I could only get my distributor to look as shiny as that...

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