DIY: So you just bought your e21. What maintenance should you do first?
This is a working guide that I am putting together; much of it applies to all cars. It is meant to help a new owner get their car to stock shape. This guide will not dive in to performance upgrades or gas mileage upgrades.
Please see the FAQ (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1146050) or use the search function for information on how to do these things, where to get parts, etc. The FAQ also has info on how to do performance/gas mileage upgrades which will not be covered here.
Please comment or add as you feel is needed and I will integrate feedback. (I know the formatting sucks for now, but I feel that something like this is needed apart from the FAQ )
List one
TOP OFF ALL OF THE FOLLOWING
Check tire pressure (check the tire pressure in the spare too) – (CONFIRM that you have a jack in the car and a wrench for the lugnuts)
Check engine oil
Check all suspension linkages for rust, etc.
Check Transmission Oil
Check Differential Oil
Check Brake Fluid
Check coolant
Check battery amps/volts/ fluid
Check gas level, top off the tank.(IF YOUR CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR A WHILE IE YEARS, DRAIN THE TANK AND THE FUEL SYSTEM)
Check all fuses, replace as needed
Cross wire your Hazard switch or fix it.
Check o2 Sensor
CHECK ALL VACUUM LINES, REPLACE ALL BROKEN ONES.
MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO UNPLUGGED SPOUTS OR LINES GOING NOWHERE
List 2
Clean your car your, clean the engine bay, clean underneath. Steam clean everything you can. It’s better that the things held together by dirt and grime shake loose in a controlled setting, than on the freeway going 80mph.
Clean Electrical Grounds!
This is a great time to find out where your car is rusty and get it patched up or not.
Drive car around the block a few times and then repeat list 1
List 3
Adjust Valves
List 4
Drive the car until you are almost out of gas.(skip this step if you are having obvious issues)
List 5
Clean the fuel/coolant/oil systems/brake system
Seafoam 3 ways with one bottle in the vacuum system, one in the gas tank, and one half bottle in the crank case.
Use some kind of coolant system wash. – if you are afraid of some kind of overheating issue, I recommend K&N block sealant as an effective preventative measure after the coolant system wash. Do your own research on this one but It has worked for me and it came highly recommended.
Brake/clutch fluid bleed
Fill the gas tank and drive the car one more time until you are almost out of gas.
List 6
Backlog Maintenance, change:
Air Filter
Engine Oil
Oil filter
Fuel filter
Dist cap
Dist rotor
Thermostat
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug wires
Brake pads
Transmission Fluid – CONSIDER REDLINE!!! DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. IT MAKES A NOTICIBLE DIFFERENCE IN SHIFTING EASE AND may seal MINOR LEAKS.
Differential Fluid – CONSIDER REDLINE!!! DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. It may seal up minor leaks
Any obviously leaking gasoline lines.
List 7
Preventative Maintenance Rebuildable Stuff:
O-ring on in tank fuel pump/level sender(makes the smell of gas go away and is very easy to do)
Replace o rings for the fuel pressure regulator on the distributor
Rebuild Warm Up Regulator
Rebuild/clean ignition distributor per instructions on this website
Replace battery cables
Replace voltage regulator
List 8 - DO THIS LIST ONLY AFTER ALL OF THE ABOVE HAVE BEEN COMPLETED
SET in this order:
Timing
Air Fuel Mixture PLEASE PAY SOMEONE TO DO THIS AT A SMOG SHOP, IT COSTS LESS THAN 30$ and is VERY IMPORTANT!!!
Set Idle
Fill gas tank again
List 9
Adjust rear shoes and handbrake.
Adjust headlights per http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
List 10
Suspension drive train stuff.
Check all boots, rubber bushings, tie rods, struts, guibo, springs, everything for wear. Replace as needed
Last edited by g323; 05-03-2009 at 08:42 PM.
My Website
1982 323i
Under the Hood:
M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
Braking/Suspension:
Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
Body:
087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
Interior:
Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge
looks very comprehensive. I can't wait to get started.
I would put checking all suspension linkages for rust etc. in the first list, especially in the north east and if you're unfamiliar with the history of the car. If they fail while you're driving, you're in a world of trouble.
Added, thank Baron
g323
My Website
1982 323i
Under the Hood:
M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
Braking/Suspension:
Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
Body:
087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
Interior:
Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge
my first order of maintenance was parting it out. now I wish I still had it
syn in the engine yes because its pressurized, it will make everything leak.
syn in the tranny/diff seals and does not cause leaks as they are not pressurized.
I will change USE to Consider.
Last edited by g323; 04-20-2009 at 12:49 AM.
My Website
1982 323i
Under the Hood:
M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
Braking/Suspension:
Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
Body:
087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
Interior:
Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge
Very comprehensive list, I like. here are my two cents:
-move vacuum lines to list one, they should be done asap.
-adjust rear shoes and handbrake.
-adjust headlights per http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html
thats all.
I'd rather be driving...
Thanks man, changes made
My Website
1982 323i
Under the Hood:
M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
Braking/Suspension:
Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
Body:
087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
Interior:
Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge
After mourning my e28 long enough I finally have my dream e21: '83 320i Hennarot, been a few months and I can finally afford to start fixing her up right. This list is excellent, thanks man.
‘78 320i, Korall
all fluids and anything made out of rubber (critical/mechanical are seals, hoses, bushings & belts) must be replaced. it has been 30 years since these cars were built! if you have a saddle gas tank, the connecting hose should be replaced immediately. mine was holding on by a prayer.
to add, possibly upgrade sealed beams for a hella type replaceable bulb setup. the light output from the original units is suicidal. add beefier leads to the new bulb setup and make sure the alternator is working 100%.
Last edited by gsumzzz; 02-19-2011 at 07:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Yeah I know what you mean, the line to cylinder 2 is some jdm hose that's diameter is way too big, held on loosely by remnants of a zip-tie, who knows what else the previous owner(s) fucked up.
‘78 320i, Korall
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