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Thread: DIY: So you just bought your e21, what maintenance should you do first?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Northern, California
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    1982 323i e21

    DIY: So you just bought your e21, what maintenance should you do first?

    DIY: So you just bought your e21. What maintenance should you do first?

    This is a working guide that I am putting together; much of it applies to all cars. It is meant to help a new owner get their car to stock shape. This guide will not dive in to performance upgrades or gas mileage upgrades.

    Please see the FAQ (http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1146050) or use the search function for information on how to do these things, where to get parts, etc. The FAQ also has info on how to do performance/gas mileage upgrades which will not be covered here.

    Please comment or add as you feel is needed and I will integrate feedback. (I know the formatting sucks for now, but I feel that something like this is needed apart from the FAQ )

    List one
    TOP OFF ALL OF THE FOLLOWING
    Check tire pressure (check the tire pressure in the spare too) – (CONFIRM that you have a jack in the car and a wrench for the lugnuts)
    Check engine oil
    Check all suspension linkages for rust, etc.
    Check Transmission Oil
    Check Differential Oil
    Check Brake Fluid
    Check coolant
    Check battery amps/volts/ fluid
    Check gas level, top off the tank.(IF YOUR CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR A WHILE IE YEARS, DRAIN THE TANK AND THE FUEL SYSTEM)
    Check all fuses, replace as needed
    Cross wire your Hazard switch or fix it.
    Check o2 Sensor
    CHECK ALL VACUUM LINES, REPLACE ALL BROKEN ONES.
    MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO UNPLUGGED SPOUTS OR LINES GOING NOWHERE

    List 2
    Clean your car your, clean the engine bay, clean underneath. Steam clean everything you can. It’s better that the things held together by dirt and grime shake loose in a controlled setting, than on the freeway going 80mph.

    Clean Electrical Grounds!

    This is a great time to find out where your car is rusty and get it patched up or not.

    Drive car around the block a few times and then repeat list 1

    List 3
    Adjust Valves

    List 4
    Drive the car until you are almost out of gas.(skip this step if you are having obvious issues)


    List 5
    Clean the fuel/coolant/oil systems/brake system

    Seafoam 3 ways with one bottle in the vacuum system, one in the gas tank, and one half bottle in the crank case.
    Use some kind of coolant system wash. – if you are afraid of some kind of overheating issue, I recommend K&N block sealant as an effective preventative measure after the coolant system wash. Do your own research on this one but It has worked for me and it came highly recommended.
    Brake/clutch fluid bleed
    Fill the gas tank and drive the car one more time until you are almost out of gas.

    List 6
    Backlog Maintenance, change:
    Air Filter
    Engine Oil
    Oil filter
    Fuel filter
    Dist cap
    Dist rotor
    Thermostat
    Spark Plugs
    Spark Plug wires
    Brake pads
    Transmission Fluid – CONSIDER REDLINE!!! DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. IT MAKES A NOTICIBLE DIFFERENCE IN SHIFTING EASE AND may seal MINOR LEAKS.
    Differential Fluid – CONSIDER REDLINE!!! DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. It may seal up minor leaks
    Any obviously leaking gasoline lines.

    List 7
    Preventative Maintenance Rebuildable Stuff:
    O-ring on in tank fuel pump/level sender(makes the smell of gas go away and is very easy to do)
    Replace o rings for the fuel pressure regulator on the distributor
    Rebuild Warm Up Regulator
    Rebuild/clean ignition distributor per instructions on this website
    Replace battery cables
    Replace voltage regulator

    List 8 - DO THIS LIST ONLY AFTER ALL OF THE ABOVE HAVE BEEN COMPLETED
    SET in this order:
    Timing
    Air Fuel Mixture PLEASE PAY SOMEONE TO DO THIS AT A SMOG SHOP, IT COSTS LESS THAN 30$ and is VERY IMPORTANT!!!
    Set Idle
    Fill gas tank again

    List 9
    Adjust rear shoes and handbrake.
    Adjust headlights per http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

    List 10
    Suspension drive train stuff.
    Check all boots, rubber bushings, tie rods, struts, guibo, springs, everything for wear. Replace as needed
    Last edited by g323; 05-03-2009 at 08:42 PM.
    My Website

    1982 323i

    Under the Hood:

    M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
    Braking/Suspension:
    Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
    Body:
    087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
    Interior:
    Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    North Brookfield MA usa
    Posts
    505
    My Cars
    325ic
    looks very comprehensive. I can't wait to get started.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Greenpoint
    Posts
    1,166
    My Cars
    e21/325, w124
    I would put checking all suspension linkages for rust etc. in the first list, especially in the north east and if you're unfamiliar with the history of the car. If they fail while you're driving, you're in a world of trouble.

    Motronic M20B25 E21 Legion Page

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Northern, California
    Posts
    1,740
    My Cars
    1982 323i e21
    Added, thank Baron

    g323
    My Website

    1982 323i

    Under the Hood:

    M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
    Braking/Suspension:
    Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
    Body:
    087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
    Interior:
    Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Endwell, New York
    Posts
    2,637
    My Cars
    2011 Mustang
    my first order of maintenance was parting it out. now I wish I still had it

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Texas
    Posts
    20,728
    My Cars
    E21, E24, E34, E46
    Quote Originally Posted by g323 View Post
    Transmission Fluid – USE REDLINE!!! IT MAKES A NOTICIBLE DIFFERENCE IN SHIFTING EASE AND SEALS UP MANY MINOR LEAKS.
    Differential Fluid – Use REDLINE!!!! It does wonders and seals up many minor leaks
    What!? Synthetic oil will make an old engine/transmission/differential leak like a wicker basket. If it's already leaking, don't use it without replacing the seals first. If it's not already leaking, it may start.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Northern, California
    Posts
    1,740
    My Cars
    1982 323i e21
    syn in the engine yes because its pressurized, it will make everything leak.

    syn in the tranny/diff seals and does not cause leaks as they are not pressurized.

    I will change USE to Consider.
    Last edited by g323; 04-20-2009 at 12:49 AM.
    My Website

    1982 323i

    Under the Hood:

    M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
    Braking/Suspension:
    Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
    Body:
    087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
    Interior:
    Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    500
    My Cars
    2000 M Roadster
    Very comprehensive list, I like. here are my two cents:

    -move vacuum lines to list one, they should be done asap.
    -adjust rear shoes and handbrake.
    -adjust headlights per http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/aim/aim.html

    thats all.
    I'd rather be driving...

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Northern, California
    Posts
    1,740
    My Cars
    1982 323i e21
    Thanks man, changes made
    My Website

    1982 323i

    Under the Hood:

    M20B23, Dogleg tranny, K&N Box Air Filter, Hayden 11inch Pusher Fan, redline tranny/diff fluid, Dual Exhaust,3.45 open.
    Braking/Suspension:
    Steel brake lines in front, front/rear 323i disks, Front and Rear Strut Braces, Lower Alpina(Ken) Bar, Kmac Camber/Castor Plates(Raise the front 1 inch), PolyUrethane Steering Rack Mounts, Rims = RG alloy wheel set (BBS design) silver 6x13“ KBA 40324, Tires: Sumitomo 195/60/13, Struts: Bilstien HDs Springs: Stock
    Body:
    087-Graphit-metallic, Euro Bumpers, BBS Valance, Foha Rear Spoler, Yellow Hella High Beams
    Interior:
    Recaro Front Seats, Sports Steering Wheel, Kph 220 Speedometer, Vacuum gauge, Air/Fuel Gauge

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY, USA
    Posts
    45
    My Cars
    1978 Korall 320i
    After mourning my e28 long enough I finally have my dream e21: '83 320i Hennarot, been a few months and I can finally afford to start fixing her up right. This list is excellent, thanks man.
    ‘78 320i, Korall

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    downingtown,pa
    Posts
    2,928
    My Cars
    1978 320i
    all fluids and anything made out of rubber (critical/mechanical are seals, hoses, bushings & belts) must be replaced. it has been 30 years since these cars were built! if you have a saddle gas tank, the connecting hose should be replaced immediately. mine was holding on by a prayer.

    to add, possibly upgrade sealed beams for a hella type replaceable bulb setup. the light output from the original units is suicidal. add beefier leads to the new bulb setup and make sure the alternator is working 100%.
    Last edited by gsumzzz; 02-19-2011 at 07:12 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Brooklyn, NY, USA
    Posts
    45
    My Cars
    1978 Korall 320i
    Yeah I know what you mean, the line to cylinder 2 is some jdm hose that's diameter is way too big, held on loosely by remnants of a zip-tie, who knows what else the previous owner(s) fucked up.
    ‘78 320i, Korall

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