Who's next? (Crank hub nut removal tool kit for rent)

[gkrea1]

When I replaced the chain and plastic guide in the M88/3 in the fall of 2007 I bought everything required for one person to remove the crank hub. It's been rented to a few folks and is currently in Jerry's possession in Virginia.

The kit includes the crank hub holder, a 4x torque multiplier, a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adapter, and a 3/4" 36mm impact socket milled to perfectly fit within the hub holder. What all this means is that one person can remove the M30, M88 and S38 crank hub nut with a 1/2" drive ratchet wrench without straining. It's almost a one handed job to loosen it with the torque multiplier. I've been renting it out for $50. If I don't know you personally I'd like a deposit, but only half the cost of the tools, $200.

Instead of shipping it back and forth to Michigan it's gone from project to project. Jerry is done with it so if somebody wants to use it it can be in your garage in a week or two. Just reply here or send me a PM.

Here are a couple pics of it in action:

[TOTALmoron]

I saw your post on Road fly. Same thing I pop the pan stuff a small sledge hammer in or a part of a jack stand in between the crank and the block and get a 32mm 1/2 socket and ratchet and a REALLY long cheater bar. I got the torque wrench in my arm ("click") NEVER had a problem no front pulley I worked on every came off.

[Hefeweizen]

Seems like nobody in Colorado Springs would ever do a job like that since no one I called had a Fly Wheel Lock down tool. Since I am doing this job pretty much by myself now I would be in need for this tool set.

[Hefeweizen]

So I bought a set for myself and today I am using it for the second time.

[funfunfer]

Old thread, but wondered about current availability.
I have Fahey hubs for my E34 and E28 cars, but have put off installation. This tool set would be the perfect solution.

[Dash01]

I made a tool for this for $5: C channel steel, 6" wide X ~20" long. Cut a hole in it at one end, to fit around and past the Jesus nut, some more smaller holes to refit some of the bolts removed with the harmonic balancer, then bolted the C channel to the crankshaft, with other end of C channel nestled against the frame to secure the crank from turning. Used a breaker bar with pipe extension and wanged the nut off. I was only stiff for a few degrees of rotation, then finger tight.

Installation in reverse order. Jesus nut torque is ~320 ft. lbs, so I used a bathroom scale and pulled 80 lbs. worth at a point 4' out from the nut. Locktite.

[ChicagoMatt]

I know this is an old post, But is this kit still available? I'm hoping to do my M6 some time this spring or early summer.

[e24mpwr]

I'll let Greg know that Spring has turned men's thoughts to timing chain tensioners and rails...

[eric1ono]

I would be interested in this as well. Is Greg, Rainer or anyone else renting this set?

Thanks,

Eric

[pete9903]

I'll get in line behind Eric, the tool can be tracked down.

[1986series6]

Bumping this to see if the tools are still for rent.

[pete9903]

Still interested here in Cali as well if anyone turns up the tools.

[SpecRaceM5]

I just received a (new to me) block today with rotating assembly and will be disassembling it on an engine stand so likely will make my own crank holder. If it is something that is easily reproducible I will try and make a few extras to sell. Shooting for something that doesn't cost me too much to make and I'm thinking it will bolt to the bottom of the block with the oil pan removed and then to the crank hub. I am interested though if anything surfaces in this thread.

Brian

[WestCoast635csi]

I did my timing chain a couple of years ago and tried all the usual engine bump stuff nothing worked so made my own. Found a piece of metal with a large enough hole for the socket to go through. I then marked out holes for the pulley bolts. I marked a few and drilled them and then marked more but didn't realize the holes are not equally spaced (must have been around zinfest time) so you may notice some holes had to be filed to fit. I found an old bench press bar on Craig's for free and welded them together. A cheater pipe and all set.
i also decided to replace the oil pan gasket and quickly realized the motor had to be jacked up to get it out so made a tool to fit over the end of my bottle jack and on the crank with the nut back on to protect the threads and also keep it from slipping off.
These are available for anyone to use if you are near Sacramento. I doubt worth shipping both ways but should be easy to duplicate.

[Adelatorre]

I want to rent the tools.

[e24mpwr]

I'm not sure if Greg still has it, but I sent him an email

[gkrea1]

I'm not sure if Greg still has it, but I sent him an email

He does! The tools recently came home. I'll PM you, Adelatorre.

-Greg

[Kinetik]

I would also really love to rent these tools. If something can be arranged. Willing to leave deposit.

[gkrea1]

Good morning, Kinetik.

I'm shipping the tools out to Alex in Cali today. I'll gladly ask him to send them directly to you when he's done. The only caveat is I don't put a time limit on the rental so it could be a few months. I hate having a time pressure on what should be a fun hobby so I don't lay that on anyone else, either.

-Greg

[1986series6]

Kinetik,

I have a crank tool and socket you can borrow, I don't have
the multiplier. Just pay for the shipping and I'll have to ask for $100 deposit.
Nothing personal, just keeps us all honest. Here's a stock photo.

Crank tool.jpg

PM sent

[Kinetik]

gkrea1, Thank's for the info. I totally understand the no need for pressure

1986series6, I've sent you an email. very exciting.

Appreciate both of you offering this service.