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Thread: Hardtop Install Questions

  1. #1
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    Question Hardtop Install Questions

    Yes, I have found the two adobe pdfs on this topic and have reviewed them until I was blue in the face. Needless to say, for those of us who are a bit slower than the rest, the illustrations are virtually useless. Would someone be willing to shoot photos of the hardware installed relative to the car so I can see where to even begin trying to install these items when they arrive?

    Sorry to be the snail of the bunch, but I just can't visualize where the hardware goes when I am looking at my car. Is the main mounting hardware location just behind and to the outside of each seat under a rubber cover? I think I get the part where it mounts to the windshield. Also, can I get the long torx tool from a local hardware store? Thanks.

    The Hankster

  2. #2
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    I have some pics I can post up after work. Someone will probably get em up sooner though.

    T-40 wrench with long handle. Don't buy from the rapist that sells them on ebay.

  3. #3
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    The install is very straightforward. You will need to remove these two foam trim pieces (PITA every time I've done it) and bolt the rear brackets in their place.

    Alignment is a bit more work. I am still waiting on my alignment gauges so I can do the job right. I have a slight air leak right now, and I haven't been able to adjust it away.

  4. #4
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    Vinci, is the air leak at the front of the hardtop?

  5. #5
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    Bumping cuz I really need pics.......

    cnigizbleevng, pics would be most appreciated! Thanks.



    The Hankster

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by cngizbleevng View Post
    Vinci, is the air leak at the front of the hardtop?
    Yeah. Passenger side. The driver side is sealed nicely, but I can't seem to shift anything around enough to tighten up the tiny gap on the passenger side. It doesn't seem to be enough to let water in (tried spray bottles and garden hose), but it still howls above 35MPH.

  7. #7
    Terry F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cngizbleevng View Post
    Vinci, is the air leak at the front of the hardtop?
    I have a small air leak dead center in the front. Any advice is appreciated. -Terry

    Stuff. I got stuff.

  8. #8
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    When you're getting the air leaks in the front, the best remedy is to get the hardtop positioned a bit further forward. You can loosen the two bolts on each rear metal bracket and shift the whole bracket as far forward as you can--then retighten them.

    If that doesn't work, removing the small metal plates from the front of the hardtop (under the cast iron 'sockets') will in effect lower the front lip of the top and seal it as well.

    As far as where the foam spacers are, you can see them in these images. Remove the foam pieces and the metal brackets will install in that area. Note on the drivers side pic the piece is a plastic/foam combination in those cars that have the hydraulic softtop. Its foam like on the passenger side in older years.



    Last edited by cngizbleevng; 01-27-2009 at 10:58 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  9. #9
    Terry F.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cngizbleevng View Post
    When you're getting the air leaks in the front, the best remedy is to get the hardtop positioned a bit further forward. You can loosen the two bolts on each rear metal bracket and shift the whole bracket as far forward as you can--then retighten them.

    If that doesn't work, removing the small metal plates from the front of the hardtop (under the cast iron 'sockets') will in effect lower the front lip of the top and seal it as well.

    As far as where the foam spacers are, you can see them in these images. Remove the foam pieces and the metal brackets will install in that area. Note on the drivers side pic the piece is a plastic/foam combination in those cars that have the hydraulic softtop. Its foam like on the passenger side in older years.



    The front screw holes in the roof currently align perfectly with the holes in the windshield frame. So I don't think I can go further forward without sacraficing the optimized concentricity of the current alignment. Maybe I'll experiment though.

    Thanks,
    Terry

    Stuff. I got stuff.

  10. #10
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    Hey Terry, try lowering the rear a bit, see if that makes the front seat better, your HT looks kind of high in the rear.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry F. View Post
    The front screw holes in the roof currently align perfectly with the holes in the windshield frame. So I don't think I can go further forward without sacraficing the optimized concentricity of the current alignment. Maybe I'll experiment though.

    Thanks,
    Terry
    You need to loosen the three bolts on the front plates of the hardtop and slide the plate rearward slightly.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Terry F. View Post
    I have a small air leak dead center in the front. Any advice is appreciated. -Terry

    You could also try loosening the three bolts on each front plate and have someone push firmly down on the area where the air leak is while you retighten the bolts.

  13. #13
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    Since you have a 96, you will need to do some electrical work for the defroster switch. Look in your fusebox to see if you have the red relay



    Your hardtop installation kit should contain these items



    You also need the pre-99 power switch



    Most of your work will involve removing the rear console and seat belt tower trim to get to the power cable which is under the carpet in the softop well



    Look inside trim panel hole in the rear of the center console to see if your car has the power supply for the defroster -if you have the red relay in your fusebox, then it is probably there. It will be wrapped in black foam tape and will match the pre-99 power switch that you hopefully ordered in addition to the hardtop mounting kit. Once you unwind the brown power line you will notice that the black three hole plug does not match the socket in the wiring harness in the installation kit. You have to make a splice into the power harness using the three small electrical prongs that came with the installation kit




    Attaching the hardtop mounts is pretty straightforward once the foam pieces are out of the car. There are three mounting points per side but only bolts supplied for two



    this is the passenger side bracket installed


    Once you've made the electrical connections, attach it to the driver's side bracket using the supplied connectors. Make sure you've reinstalled your driver's seat before inserting your key and testing the connection with pre-ignition or else you will trigger an ABS light



    Once these connections are made, the initial top fitting is really a matter of trial and error at the four mount points. There is vertical and fore/aft adjustability at each point and unfortunately you just have to keep fiddling to get it right. Unless you have at least one, preferably two patient and strong backed helpers, consider getting a hoist to raise and lower the top while you make adjustments. Sorry I didn't take too many pics of that phase of the install. PM me if I can help in any other way
    Last edited by KBH22102; 01-29-2009 at 10:10 PM.
    Kelvin

  14. #14
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    Nice info there, KB! Good contribution.

  15. #15
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    Wow! A big thank you

    Just a public thank you KBH for the time and willingness to post this. It is very much appreciated!

    The Hankster

  16. #16
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    Relay

    Quote Originally Posted by KBH22102 View Post
    Since you have a 96, you will need to do some electrical work for the defroster switch. Look in your fusebox to see if you have the red relay


    My 2000 was missing the relay, popped it in and the defroster was good to go
    ZZZING 2000 Z3 2.3 Oxford Green Beige/Black Sharked, StrongStrut , Whalen Knob, LeatherZ, M upper shock mounts, Koni Sport Shocks, SSR Competition Wheels, HIR bulbs, Oxford Green Hardtop

  17. #17
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    Great job KBH, Im gonna have to cut and paste that one into my Z files for when i get home to the CONUS to put my HT that awaits me on!

  18. #18
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    Most of this post is only relevant to owners with cars that have manual tops (pre-98, or is it 99?) If you have the electrohydraulic top, then all the power connections are already there from the factory and you don't have to take apart the rear console
    Kelvin

  19. #19
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    so if I have a 2000?

    Guys, so since I have a 2000, electric top M roadster, all i need is the top and a defroster switch?

    The brackets and all that stuff is already there?

  20. #20
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    Unless a hardtop was previously installed on your car and still has the brackets, etc., you'll need a kit or at least a minimum of the necessary parts to be able to mount the top. Most of the wiring necessary will already be there.

  21. #21
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    Thanks

    Thanks, now I'm searching for the PDF's...can't seem to find anything. Where are these that everyone talks about?

  22. #22
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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjcoston View Post
    I know you meant to be helpful but these are the pdf files he stated he was looking at till he was blue in the face.
    Now in E92 M3 ZCP -- Absolute beast

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by z3papa View Post
    I know you meant to be helpful but these are the pdf files he stated he was looking at till he was blue in the face.
    I was replying to the post prior to mine by davebho asking for the pdf files. Next time I'll quote who I'm replying to.

  25. #25
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    Guys, so since I have a 2000, electric top M roadster, all i need is the top and a defroster switch?

    The brackets and all that stuff is already there?
    This old KBH22102 thread has a lot of good info in it. Follow the link in post #11 for a list of part numbers. http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1130773

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