Is there any easy test for the CCV? I did a complete cooling overhaul and approx. two weeks later I have a loud continuous chirping at idle in drive. Goes away any time off idle. Did replace all pulleys when cooling was redone. Sounds like it is coming from under the intake in the area of #2 cylinder. No noticed oil consumption change. No change if I remove dipstick or oil filler cap. I am at at loss and the wife is not happy with the Cricket Mobile.. I should mention 528i build date 3/99. Thanks in advance.
Dwyer Slack-Tube Manometer the BMW tool part number is 99 00 0 001 410
the spec for m52tu is 10.0mbar +- 10%
poolman has spoken of # 7 here:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...79&hg=11&fg=40
The 'adjuster unit' making a clacking noise and the need to replace it. It's just north of the CCV and can make that noise.
Did this noise only begin after you did the coolant overhaul/replacing all pulleys? If so, I'd lean towards either one of the pulleys as a potential culprit. Their noise travels and can drive one mad in pining it down.
Also, I don't know if # 8, the ICV could be to blame for a noise (see above link).
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
My 12/99 build date 528i had a whistle (or perhaps a chirp) at idle due to a hole in the rubber intake boot (the one between the MAF and the throttle body). There's a small pipe (rubber hose) underneath the large boot which makes a 90-degree turn toward an idle control valve or something.
Easy to check - just put your finger under there and block off the hole and the noise will go away. Easy fix - $27 part (boot) from dealer.
Last edited by 82bmw633; 01-27-2009 at 05:58 PM. Reason: didn't spellcheck - can't spell
The chirping noise is your idler pulley! I hadthe same exact problem a while back that drove me crazy. I traced it to the idler pulley assembly and replaced it. The noise is now gone.
Remember to replace the whole assembly not just the pulley. And yes, it is located directly underneath the intake manifold.
Thanks for the replies. Going to eliminate the possibility of a defective pulley by pulling the belt and see if I still get it. Will update.
Without removing any of the pulleys yet, get underneath the car and remove the bottom engine cover. When the belt is exposed, try to tug down on the belt...you will hear it act up a bit. That is your indicator that the idler assembly is bad.
I believe the whole assembly is held by 2 bolts. Remember to draw your belt layout first on a piece of paper BEFORE removing the belt!!!
cal45fan
Did your test and it is squeaky when I pull on it. I am gonna change it. Changed the pulley when I did the cooling system, guess i should have done both. thanks for all the help.
Bookmarks