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Thread: Duralast 49DL battery install - Advice please.

  1. #1
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    Duralast 49DL battery install - Advice please.

    Hi all.

    I'm getting ready to install a Duralast 49DL battery in my 98 540i.
    I have some info ready to go for the install...

    - How do I vent my car battery to the outside?

    - Bentley Manual


    If anyone else has done this DIY, please jump in and add any advice you can think of to simplify the procedure.
    For instance, there is a tool (Memory saver 295A) I saw on Bavauto's magazine that preserves the computer and radio codes. Is there a place I can get one locally?

    Thanks in advance.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 02-06-2010 at 11:45 PM.

  2. #2
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    If you have an old cigarette lighter plug, tape a 9 volt battery to it and stick it in the lighter socket. Change battery and you should still have your settings.

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    First, this is so easy a 10 year could do it with no problem.

    The vent kit should come with the battery which allows you to hook up to your car's vent tube (the lighter gray tube).

    You have no radio code so you don't have to worry about that. Not sure if you're driving to Autozone and will be changing the battery in the lot...or you'll be picking up the battery then coming back home to install...but if the battery will only be out of the car for a few minutes...you probably won't even lose your radio presets.

    You will loose you current OBC stuff...like the AVG MPH/AVG MPH/AVG SPEED etc...unless you do as Gumbi suggest and use a tool to provide a little power. Unless you really need to track that info...I wouldn't worry...just go ahead a undo the battery cables and swap in the new one. But if you do want to keep the OBC stuff, read the paragraph below.

    If you have an electric battery charger that can be dialed down to 2 amps or something similar...you can hook it up to the jump locations under the hood...then remove the cables from the battery in the trunk...MAKE SURE THAT YOU DO NOT LET THE CABLES TOUCH EACH OTHER OR ANY METAL IN THE TRUNK!!!!! If you do this, make sure you wrap the ends of the cable in a rag or anything that will prevent any arching etc if the cable do slip and touch metal or each other.

    BTW, take some pics of the e39's battery tube if you can...I've only seen the ones in my e30/e32/e34/e38/e39 Touring...I'm sure the e39 sedan's is probably the same...but I can't recall ever seeing anyone post pics of the battery compartment of the e39 sedan on the 5 forums.

    As you can see in the images below...once again, BMW doesn't change a lot of things from generations and models when it comes to mundane things like this that is a common part that can be used for multiple applications.

    Vent tube in my old e34 under the rear seat (the tube in my e32 looked just like this):


    Vent tube in my e38 (and the one in my e39 Touring looks just like this, too):
    Last edited by Qsilver7; 01-24-2009 at 03:32 PM.
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    The battery comes with an adapter tube you can use to attach to the factory tube shown above. You will also need a small piece of wood to wedge on top of the battery to keep it secure, since the OEM battery is slightly taller than the DL
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
    You will also need a small piece of wood to wedge on top of the battery to keep it secure, since the OEM battery is slightly taller than the DL
    Exactly. I just wrapped a small piece of wood with duct tape (gotta' look OEM!). I didn't lose anything when I disconnected the battery. Make sure you ask for the vent kit at Autozone. They should verify with you when you specifiy the make, model, and year (they can't find anything without that info).

    I got an Optima battery for my E24 and relocated it to the trunk. Sure was funny when they asked make, model, and year and I said it didn't matter. They couldn't handle it. It took 15 minutes for them (AdvanceAutoParts) to understand. Just as much fun when I go to get parts for my friend's 1975 2002. "Well, which year is it?"

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asharus View Post
    ...You will also need a small piece of wood to wedge on top of the battery to keep it secure, since the OEM battery is slightly taller than the DL
    Quote Originally Posted by 82bmw633 View Post
    Exactly. I just wrapped a small piece of wood with duct tape (gotta' look OEM!)...
    I'm confuzzled? Doesn't the sedan have the battery hold down thingy? It's #15 in the diagram (see below). That is what secures the battery in place and keeps it from sliding/moving. You set the battery in place, then place the lower section over the base/foot of the battery, then you screw the long bolt into the floor of the battery compartment. Again, item #15 keeps the battery from moving.

    (I'll go take some pics of the Tourings battery compartment later.)

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    Thanks, guys.
    I am getting the battery and bringing it home to do the install.
    Since Q has suggested some pics of the battery compartment, I will go ahead and do a DIY of this. It sounds like it is too easy to warrant a DIY, but if it gives someone piece of mind to tackle the install themselves...why not.?.
    If anyone else thinks of anything that has gotten left out, post it up and I'll check back here before I start the job.

    Regards

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    I just did this exact same thing last week.

    1. Autozone lists the 49-DL for $89.99 + core charge ($12). This is b/c later if you dispose of battery they need to spend $12 (who knows).
    I told them I am tight of funds and another place sells it for $79.00.
    They price-matched and I walked out the door paying $79.00 + tax and that is it.
    2y full warranty then prorated.

    *** Check the Date of mfg (stamped into the battery plastic casing), for ex, ....K08 stands for October 2008.

    2. Get a Sharpie Black marker and mark on the battery the date of install and write on it 2y warranty/pro-rated b/c 2-3 years from now you may not remember all these facts.

    3. Check water level before install. It is easier this way.
    Put a reminder masking tape on your door sill: H2O added; Date etc. to remind you to check battery water once a year or so.

    4. Tuck the ground wire with a small wire to keep it out of the way so the battery goes down smoother.

    5. The Battery Hold Down Clip. Install exactly as shown, small end toward battery (see pic).

    6. If you radio does NOT work after new battery install (happened to me),
    Disconnect the ground cable for one minute, then re-connect it.
    Don't ask me why, this is E39 electrical gremlin!

    PS: Oh don't waste your time for write-up. It is too simple.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by cnn; 01-24-2009 at 04:31 PM.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnn View Post
    I just did this exact same thing last week.

    1. Autozone lists the 49-DL for $89.99 + core charge ($12). This is b/c later if you dispose of battery they need to spend $12 (who knows).
    I told them I am tight of funds and another place sells it for $79.00.
    They price-matched and I walked out the door paying $79.00 + tax and that is it.
    2y full warranty then prorated.

    *** Check the Date of mfg (stamped into the battery plastic casing), for ex, ....K08 stands for October 2008.

    2. Get a Sharpie Black marker and mark on the battery the date of install and write on it 2y warranty/pro-rated b/c 2-3 years from now you may not remember all these facts.

    3. Check water level before install. It is easier this way.
    Put a reminder masking tape on your door sill: H2O added; Date etc. to remind you to check battery water once a year or so.

    4. Tuck the ground wire with a small wire to keep it out of the way so the battery goes down smoother.

    5. The Battery Hold Down Clip. Install exactly as shown, small end toward battery (see pic).

    6. If you radio does NOT work after new battery install (happened to me),
    Disconnect the ground cable for one minute, then re-connect it.
    Don't ask me why, this is E39 electrical gremlin!

    PS: Oh don't waste your time for write-up. It is too simple.
    Thanks, cnn.
    The sad thing is, if there was a battery replacement DIY in the DIY section, I'd be using it right now . So, maybe there are other members that would not mind having one.

    #3 above - I have to use distilled water, correct?

    Thanks again.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-24-2009 at 04:37 PM.

  10. #10
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    Sure, DISTILLED WATER Only.

    Alright, if you wish, write a little DIY and post it in the DIY section.
    There is a similar DIY here:
    http://www.bmwdiy.info/battery-maint/index.html

    Good choice of using Autozone rather than Sears, Walmart.
    This is b/c Autozone has a LARGE network in the US. So if you get stuck somewhere, you can get help easier.
    Last edited by cnn; 01-24-2009 at 04:42 PM.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by cnn View Post
    I just did this exact same thing last week.

    1. Autozone lists the 49-DL for $89.99 + core charge ($12). This is b/c later if you dispose of battery they need to spend $12 (who knows).
    I told them I am tight of funds and another place sells it for $79.00.
    They price-matched and I walked out the door paying $79.00 + tax and that is it.
    2y full warranty then prorated.

    *** Check the Date of mfg (stamped into the battery plastic casing), for ex, ....K08 stands for October 2008.

    2. Get a Sharpie Black marker and mark on the battery the date of install and write on it 2y warranty/pro-rated b/c 2-3 years from now you may not remember all these facts.

    3. Check water level before install. It is easier this way.
    Put a reminder masking tape on your door sill: H2O added; Date etc. to remind you to check battery water once a year or so.

    4. Tuck the ground wire with a small wire to keep it out of the way so the battery goes down smoother.

    5. The Battery Hold Down Clip. Install exactly as shown, small end toward battery (see pic).

    6. If you radio does NOT work after new battery install (happened to me),
    Disconnect the ground cable for one minute, then re-connect it.
    Don't ask me why, this is E39 electrical gremlin!

    PS: Oh don't waste your time for write-up. It is too simple.
    Umm CNN...you just did a write-up...with some EXCELLENT tips I might add!

    The reason I suggested pics and some instructions is...I've seen many BMW owners that are NOT comfortable with DIY stuff...or young/first owners (male & female) who haven't had the experience working on cars...who have actually paid money to have someone change their battery.

    Taking a few pics and typing a few words...may be the "nudge" some need to see how EASY this really is to do...and may be the catalyst that launches them into doing other simple DIY stuff...which can be the beginning of them moving into more DIY stuff that's requires increased skill levels.

    We all have to start somewhere...might as well start with something simple to conquer. And all of this can be done with the tools from the car's tool kit in the trunk or tailgate.

    On my 540iT...once I swing the subwoofer out of the way...you can see the support bar...it has some foam pads underneath it...but it really doesn't hold anything down:


    You can see the threaded hold down's long bolt to the right of the battery...this is what secures the battery and keeps it from moving around. You can also see the battery's "L" shaped vent kit attached to the car's (light gray) vent tube coming off the top center of the (Autocraft Titanium 49-1) battery. This is another one of those Johnson Control mfg'd batteries just like the Duralast/DieHard International/Interstate MTP-93/EverStart 49:


    Here's a closer view of the vent kit hooked up to the car's vent tube:
    Last edited by Qsilver7; 01-24-2009 at 05:30 PM.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    I'm confuzzled? Doesn't the sedan have the battery hold down thingy?
    Yes it does. However the overall height of the Duralast battery is somewhat less than the OEM. The cross-brace (#5) is bolted to the body on the side. Therefore it cannot be lowered. #15 can only go until it bottoms out. All-in-all using a spacer with the Duralast is the best way to keep from bending/breaking the OEM parts used to retain the battery.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    Umm CNN...you just did a write-up...with some EXCELLENT tips I might add! .........
    Silver,

    You are funny.

    OK I will take it back. I have been fixing cars for 20 years.... that is why I said that but....

    Alright, jamesdc4, write it up, it may be a catalyst for many people to become Saturday mechanics like myself! Seriously, this was how I started it out 20 years ago, fed up with the cost of going to dealer, mechanic etc. So I learned how to DIY.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 82bmw633 View Post
    Yes it does. However the overall height of the Duralast battery is somewhat less than the OEM. The cross-brace (#5) is bolted to the body on the side. Therefore it cannot be lowered. #15 can only go until it bottoms out. All-in-all using a spacer with the Duralast is the best way to keep from bending/breaking the OEM parts used to retain the battery.
    First, please don't take this as disagreeing with you...it's not. If placing something below the "brace bar" helps...I won't knock it.

    But I would like to clarify the correct use of the hold down clamp (#15) because its use was misunderstood just the other day on one of the e38 forums I frequent...and unlike the e39...there is no support brace on the e38...only the hold down clamp. I'm getting the feeling that there are owners out there that are improperly using the hold down clamp.

    The wedge shaped part of the hold down clamp is designed to fit over the base (foot) of the battery...then the long rod is screwed down into one of the threaded holes in the battery floor. Its engineered to be screwed down with the thought of the clamp possibly being at a slight angle to the rod. But it should still be able to be secured. It's not going to break (that's why it's metal and not plastic)

    The pic below shows how the hold down clamp is securing the battery in my Touring...again, the clamp is sitting on top of the base of the battery, then the rod is screwed down into the threaded hole. This is what's holding my battery in place because as you state, the support brace on top isn't even touching the battery (except for the foam pads underneath the brace):



    Last edited by Qsilver7; 01-24-2009 at 10:54 PM.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gumbi4u View Post
    If you have an old cigarette lighter plug, tape a 9 volt battery to it and stick it in the lighter socket. Change battery and you should still have your settings.
    Ken,

    Thanks for that suggestion. Thanks to everyone for that matter!!!

    I'm wondering if I should go ahead and disconnect the battery without the memory saver, because of the problem with my sunroof. If cutting power to the car will reset the GM then it might be the way to go in this case, but I don't know if the data stored in the GM memory will be erased by cutting the power. There is only one way to find out.
    I will do the batt. change with the memory saver, and if the problems with the alarm and sunroof are still present, I will disconnect the batt. and see if a reset works.

    Wish me luck!
    __________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ _______
    UPDATE

    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    First, please don't take this as disagreeing with you...it's not. If placing something below the "brace bar" helps...I've won't knock it.

    But I would like to clarify the correct use of the hold down clamp (#15) because its use was misunderstood just the other day on one of the e38 forums I frequent...and unlike the e39...there is no support brace brace on the e38...only the hold down clamp. I'm getting the feeling that there's owners out there that are improperly using the hold down clamp.

    The wedge shaped part of the hold down clamp is designed to fit over the base (foot) of the battery...then the long rod is screwed down into one of the threaded holes in the battery floor. Its engineered to be screwed down with the thought of the clamp possibly being at a slight angle to the rod. But it should still be able to be secured. It's not going to break (that's why it's metal and not plastic)

    The pic below shows how the hold down clamp is securing the battery in my Touring...again, the clamp is sitting on top of the base of the battery, then the rod is screwed down into the threaded hole. This is what's holding my battery in place because as you state, the support brace on top isn't even touching the battery (except for the foam pads underneath the brace):



    Q is right about this. The brace above the battery must be for structural support. The clamp is what holds the battery securely in place.
    Quote Originally Posted by jamesdc4 View Post
    Ken,

    Thanks for that suggestion. Thanks to everyone for that matter!!!

    I'm wondering if I should go ahead and disconnect the battery without the memory saver, because of the problem with my sunroof. If cutting power to the car will reset the GM then it might be the way to go in this case, but I don't know if the data stored in the GM memory will be erased by cutting the power. There is only one way to find out.
    I will do the batt. change with the memory saver, and if the problems with the alarm and sunroof are still present, I will disconnect the batt. and see if a reset works.

    Wish me luck!
    I used the memory saver and it saved all my settings except the time. I had to reset that.
    The sunroof problem was fixed by changing out the battery!!! I am testing the alarm now and will post back.
    I documented the entire battery replacement procedure, so I will have that DIY posted up before I go to sleep late tonight (if my wife doesn't have the baby).
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 01-24-2009 at 09:06 PM. Reason: Automerged

  16. #16
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    Clarification:
    1. Battery holddown clamp basically prevents the back and forth motion on the battery when accelerating and braking.

    2. The bar on top of the battery. Well many cars do not have it. My 1998 Volvo V70 does not have it. My 1983 735i does not have it.
    The E39 bar is there to prevent the battery from falling if your car is overturned upside down...hehe...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Qsilver7 View Post
    First, please don't take this as disagreeing with you...it's not. If placing something below the "brace bar" helps...I've won't knock it.

    But I would like to clarify the correct use of the hold down clamp (#15) because its use was misunderstood just the other day on one of the e38 forums I frequent...and unlike the e39...there is no support brace brace on the e38...only the hold down clamp. I'm getting the feeling that there's owners out there that are improperly using the hold down clamp.
    I agree with you (and have learned something in the process). I have the hold down clamp securing the battery. I just thought that using the cross-brace would add some 'security' to the installation. That's a damn big and heavy battery!

  18. #18
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    The alarm problem remains. I'm stumped.
    It's kind of an important part of the car and I'd really like to resolve it. Oh well.
    I'm off to piece together a DIY.

    Thanks guys.

    Edit: Solved the alarm issue...
    Quote Originally Posted by jamesdc4 View Post
    Update on the alarm issue I was having. I changed out the alarm siren/horn (part #6 below) and the problem is solved. No more falsing.
    If you are having alarm symptoms like I describe in the first post in this thread, this is the part you need to replace.
    DIY done as well...
    Battery Replacement with Duralast 49-DL
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 02-06-2010 at 05:36 PM.

  19. #19
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    Free memory saver and the value of searching...

    Quote Originally Posted by Gumbi4u View Post
    If you have an old cigarette lighter plug, tape a 9 volt battery to it and stick it in the lighter socket. Change battery and you should still have your settings.
    Couldn't find a "memory saver" to save my life at the local Autozone, Kragen/O'Reilly/Checker or independent store, but did have a bunch of old car adapters from various and sundry electronic devices that have come and gone. Picked one that was USB, reasoning that at least the wiring color would have a published/universal standard. Sure enough, found several things like this:

    http://pinouts.ru/Slots/USB_pinout.shtml

    So knew that the red wire, as we might assume, was hot and black was ground. With that, simply stripped the red and black wires, electrical taped them to the respective terminals on a 9-volt I had around. Immediately, the power indicator on the adapter lit up, so knew I was in business, and plugged it in just before disconnecting the car battery.

    New battery install is easy but heavy and awkward due to position, tight space conditions, fragile plastic fuse/light connectors around the space, and need to maneuver around the hatch cover.

    DIY battery saver worked like a charm - the car battery was disconnected for more than 20 minutes because I had some powder/corrosion to clean up before installing/venting new one. However, all settings - seat, radio, mileage/mpg, no key re-synching, etc. came back after installing new battery. The only thing I had to do was to reset the clock, which read 14 minutes slow.

    Btw, battery purchase was between Duralast 49DL and Everstart Maxx49 from Walmart. Duralast was $95 at local Autozone, Everstart was $75 at Walmart. Both have exact same external dimensions and vent kit. Everstart was 3 yrs. full replacement vs. 2 for Duralast, but the Everstart has an 84 mo. prorated warranty on top of that, vs. (I think) 60 for Duralast. Both have CCA of 850, but Duralast has CA@32deg. of 1000 vs. 930 for the Everstart. However, I figured that, living in Northern California, it's not like the battery is ever going to see 32 deg. anyway. Also, Consumer Reports (11/09 issue) rated Everstart higher than Duralast (although, admittedly, the Group 49 wasn't one of the tested groups). I'll post if I have any issues going forward.

    I think the description is fairly clear, but can take/post pictures if anyone wants 'em.

    Anyway, thanks to Gumbi4u, who posted this about a year ago and may be among several who posted this solution, but it was the first one I saw. Easy, zero-cost, and used something that I would have eventually just recycled. As always, thanks to all who post here and share their fantastic experience to help the rest of us. Free is good.


    Best,

    Steve.

  20. #20
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    I am a little fuzzy on why eveyone keeps using the 49DL battery. It doesnt fit properly and doesnt properly connect to the vent. For a few dollars more the H8-DLG is available with a better warranty, its an exact fit in the tray and for the vent. It seems like a no brainer to me.
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  21. #21
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    Thanks, didn't see anyone talking about that one - wish I'd seen that info sooner. Oh well, maybe next time (but hoping there's not a next time real soon...).

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    Im pretty sure my 49DL fits fine and it has a vent... perhaps different because I have an M5 though

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackxs View Post
    Im pretty sure my 49DL fits fine and it has a vent... perhaps different because I have an M5 though

    half this thread is discussing the addition of foam spacers to make the hold down work and a vent kit to adapt the vent, the H8-DLG battery is identical to the BMW original in every way.
    >'97 528i, 200000 miles, Hella Xenons, 17" Stilauto wheels, Vogtland Drop Springs, Dynomax Race Muffler, Homelink, 540 brake upgrade, 15mm spacers >'65 & '74 MG Midgets BFC OT Lego Club #48 Manual conversion in process!!!



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    Quote Originally Posted by NNY528I View Post
    I am a little fuzzy on why eveyone keeps using the 49DL battery. It doesnt fit properly and doesnt properly connect to the vent. For a few dollars more the H8-DLG is available with a better warranty, its an exact fit in the tray and for the vent. It seems like a no brainer to me.

    The 49-dl was the only one available in short notice at the time i had to swap mine. It doesn't move and actually fits perfectly. There are two tie down spots in the battery compartment so you can use two sized batteries. I believe the CCA's are lower on the DLG as well. Dont quote me on that though.

    Another FP5241 Creation
    Parting out M54 Engine. Intake and all. Cats avail as well. PM ME!

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