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Thread: Power steering belt tensioner 02' e46

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Chattanooga TN
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    20
    My Cars
    1989 325is

    Power steering belt tensioner 02' e46

    Anyone have any experence with the power steering belt tensioner. Is it a disposable unit that needs to be replaced with belts? Reset procedeure? Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    nathancarter is offline Stretch Haters Club #1 BMW CCA Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Tampa, FL
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    11,328
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    2002 330i 131k
    Do a quick forum search for "tensioner" and you'll find tons of info.

    You probably don't need to change the whole thing, but you might change the pulley if it is loose or wobbles or makes ANY noise.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Chattanooga TN
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    1989 325is
    Used the search before I posted my question. Lots of info, just not pertaining to my question.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    East Coast
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    e46, Mp5
    If it's hydrolic probably.. mechanical.. probably not.

  5. #5
    nathancarter is offline Stretch Haters Club #1 BMW CCA Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    2002 330i 131k
    OK.

    There are two types of belt tensioners: mechanical and hydraulic. The mechanical tensioner looks like a round silver can with a pulley bolted to the face of it. The tension is provided by a spring inside. The hydraulic tensioner looks like a little shock-absorber assembly, with a shock and an armature and a pulley. They are interchangeable, but the hydraulic type is generally regarded to be superior.

    Your car has two tensioners: one on the A/C belt and one on the serpentine belt that drives the power steering, alternator, and waterpump/fan. The tensioner types that are used vary by car (perhaps by year and/or assembly plant?), you may have two mechanical tensioners, two hydraulic tensioners, or one of each. My car has the mechanical tensioner on the A/C belt and the hydraulic tensioner on the serpentine belt.

    The tensioner is easy to maniuplate, and they tension the belts automatically. You use a 16mm box wrench (mechanical) or a 8mm hex socket (hydraulic) to temporarily releive the tension, then slip the belt off - see diagram below. It's re-usable as long as it's not worn out.

    The most common mode of failure is worn bearings inside the pulleys. The spring mechanism in the mechanical tensioner can also wear out (relatively common) and the shock mechanism inside the hydraulic tensioner can wear out (not particularly common). On the hydraulic tensioner, you can replace the pulley independently of the tensioner body, but on the mechanical tensioner, you can't (or, at least there's no part number for that pulley on RealOEM). If the mechanical tensioner fails, either replace the whole thing with a new mechanical tensioner, or replace the whole thing with the hydraulic tensioner assembly.

    When you remove the belt, thoroughly inspect the pulleys on the tensioners. If they wobble or wiggle on the hub, or if they make any noise at all, then replace them.

    There's also an offset idler pulley bolted to the front of the alternator that should be inspected, and replaced if necessary.

    Last edited by nathancarter; 01-24-2009 at 04:08 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Dallas, TX (USA)
    Posts
    229
    My Cars
    BMW E46 330i
    If anyone else is wondering when they should change/replace their Tensioner Pulley (This is a Mechanical unit)... If it sounds like this, then do yourself a favor and have it replaced ( Don't wait and "ride" it till it fails. Your Engine will appreciate it ) -
    [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9vKqc29wOHg[/ame]
    Last edited by BimmersGarage; 02-22-2010 at 12:47 PM.

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