Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 59

Thread: Z3/M door work...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    12,682
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M

    Z3/M door work...

    Just posting up some useful data (links & pics) for anyone doing door work in the future.

    Ron Stygar has the TIS procedure and inner door panel fasteners here: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/int...oor_panel.html

    Including this money-saving shot:



    The remainder are from my work in the past couple of days:

































    Continued...
    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 01-16-2009 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    12,682
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Continued:
































  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, FL
    Posts
    7,563
    My Cars
    98 M Roadster
    Excellent reference photos.

    What was the issue you were working on? My driver-side lock actuator has been acting up sporadically (usually when it is coldest outside), so I may be doing something similar before long.

    As an aside, do you have a method for getting the door panels seated correctly at the top? Last time I had mine off, I had to fight it for a lot longer than I would have expected.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    440
    My Cars
    06 ML500, 05 xA
    Wow, Randy - thanks for all the photos. Those will come in handy!

    +1 on any tips regarding putting the door panels back in.
    99 MC Imola/Blk 136K miles (SOLD 01/2011)
    Currently driving 2005 Scion xA

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Tarzana, ca
    Posts
    1,849
    My Cars
    1999 M Roadster, 4Runner
    Randy with more photos, you are the king... Thanks Randy.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Cali
    Posts
    2,980
    My Cars
    AT-AT
    I'm curious Randy, how did you remove the airbag? Just the thought of it scares me LOL.
    The search box is awesome..try it!


  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    .
    Posts
    426
    My Cars
    .
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Hoe did you fix the bushing?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    806
    My Cars
    00 M Roadster
    Thanks Randy. Do you have the part number for the cover plate tool?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    12,682
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Quote Originally Posted by Vinci View Post
    Excellent reference photos.

    What was the issue you were working on? My driver-side lock actuator has been acting up sporadically (usually when it is coldest outside), so I may be doing something similar before long.

    As an aside, do you have a method for getting the door panels seated correctly at the top? Last time I had mine off, I had to fight it for a lot longer than I would have expected.
    Your definition of "cold" isn't carrying much weight with me right now (BELOW ZERO HERE).

    His key wouldn't unlock from the driver's side. I bent the connecting rod slightly to take out the slack, and it's working again.

    On this car (Coupe) I actually used some Gummi-Phlege to lube the (hidden) top of the panel (under the rubber seal) and on the seal where it goes onto the door; the seal is attached to the panel and then slipped onto the door while holding the lower part out about a foot (12"). A "weak" dishwashing soap solution would accomplish the same feat.

    Quote Originally Posted by btotoro View Post
    I'm curious Randy, how did you remove the airbag? Just the thought of it scares me LOL.
    I stood on the outside of the door and kept my hands away from the front of the bag. I was more concerned about removing the plug...

    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
    Hoe did you fix the bushing?
    I didn't have time to get a replacement, as he's due to arrive tomorrow. But it does look like it's a listed part, so anyone thinking about doing this work should probably get them in advance (one__1__per side).

    Have to worry about how to change then...

    Quote Originally Posted by rjcoston View Post
    Thanks Randy. Do you have the part number for the cover plate tool?
    Not offhand (might be in Ron's link above) but honestly, it would be so easy to make one.
    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 01-16-2009 at 01:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Sarasota, FL
    Posts
    7,563
    My Cars
    98 M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Your definition of "cold" isn't carrying much weight with me right now (BELOW ZERO HERE).
    That's alright. You can get your kicks in when I'm complaining in July.

    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Not offhand (might be in Ron's link abouve) but honestly, it would be so easy to make one.
    I made one out of a heavy-gauge wire hanger. Nowhere near as elegant as the official tool, but it worked the couple times I needed to use it. The flat edges on the official tool would make it much easier to use than mine.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    .
    Posts
    426
    My Cars
    .

    Tool it

    Pin tool is now $76.74r



    Hook tool is now $34.51r









    Last edited by Ron Stygar; 01-16-2009 at 06:48 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    Honolulu
    Posts
    10,402
    My Cars
    No more BMWs :(
    Islands62 Hook tool:

    Bondo dent puller from NAPA $5.00 (looks exactly like special tool above, except no finished edge)

    IslandS62 Pin tool:

    Needle nose pliers inserted into 2 of the notches of door lock retaining ring.

    Thanks for the post, and photos though, great info!
    997 Carrera 2S..the choice of 2 out of 3 Top Gear presenters.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Chicago, IL
    Posts
    287
    My Cars
    00 M Coupe
    Thank you for the great post!

    My drivers side door lock has stopped working and I was nervous about taking the handle out because of my lack of knowledge. (I got through the window sliders when working with the door but nothing further) So thanks for posting all of the pictures now I feel like I can tackle this.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    12,682
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
    Pin tool is now $76.74r

    I sacrificed an 8-point 11/16" socket (that's never been used in 35+ years) and about a half-hour's time.

    Quote Originally Posted by IslandS62 View Post
    IslandS62 Pin tool:

    Needle nose pliers inserted into 2 of the notches of door lock retaining ring.

    Thanks for the post, and photos though, great info!
    I used those to get the nut off (hence the double-layer of tape). But, I wanted to make sure is was on securely before the guy heads back to Virginia; and with no scratches in the door!

    I'm all for using what you've got, I just happen to be better equipped than your average enthusiast

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    440
    My Cars
    06 ML500, 05 xA
    Quote Originally Posted by btotoro View Post
    I'm curious Randy, how did you remove the airbag? Just the thought of it scares me LOL.
    I think Ron Stygar's procedure recommends disconnecting the battery.

    Does that mean the airbag cannot deploy?
    99 MC Imola/Blk 136K miles (SOLD 01/2011)
    Currently driving 2005 Scion xA

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Marietta, GA
    Posts
    1,478
    My Cars
    Ferrari,Mercedes,Porsche
    this is most excellent. my key will no longer unlock the passenger door.

    .

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    806
    My Cars
    00 M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
    Hook tool is now $34.51r



    Pin tool is now $76.74r

    Quote Originally Posted by IslandS62 View Post
    Islands62 Hook tool:

    Bondo dent puller from NAPA $5.00 (looks exactly like special tool above, except no finished edge)

    IslandS62 Pin tool:

    Needle nose pliers inserted into 2 of the notches of door lock retaining ring.

    Thanks for the post, and photos though, great info!
    Thanks Ron and IslandS62.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    .
    Posts
    426
    My Cars
    .
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    I sacrificed an 8-point 11/16" socket (that's never been used in 35+ years) and about a half-hour's time.

    I used those to get the nut off (hence the double-layer of tape). But, I wanted to make sure is was on securely before the guy heads back to Virginia; and with no scratches in the door!
    And you can torque it if you want. (10 Nm)

  19. #19
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    12,682
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Stygar View Post
    And you can torque it if you want. (10 Nm)
    Thanks, yes, always an advantage when converting a drive socket. I better go back and check that; at "hand-tight" it's probably a couple Newtons on the light side.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Palmdale, CA USA
    Posts
    215
    My Cars
    '00 ///M Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    8.5 Nm? Isn't that like 6.3 ft-lbs? Hmm... I think that my integrated torque wrench may have over-tightened those a bit when I changed my window sliders

    I'm doing science and I'm still alive...

  21. #21
    Join Date
    May 2001
    Location
    .
    Posts
    426
    My Cars
    .

    Torque

    Quote Originally Posted by Petra View Post
    8.5 Nm? Isn't that like 6.3 ft-lbs? Hmm... I think that my integrated torque wrench may have over-tightened those a bit when I changed my window sliders
    8.5 X .737

    Screws are one use.



    Quote Originally Posted by btotoro View Post
    I'm curious Randy, how did you remove the airbag? Just the thought of it scares me LOL.










    Last edited by Ron Stygar; 01-16-2009 at 05:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Northern Va
    Posts
    11,565
    My Cars
    E36/8, K12R, E91
    Thanks for all of the detailed shots' and specs Ron and Randy.
    2002 Alpine White w/ Black 368 (<OO \(||][||)/ OO>)
    Power: Custom Exhaust w/ High Flow cats, CSL headers, built, low-compression Supercharged and aftercooled S-54, ViPEC standalone ECU, Vortech V2 Si trim
    Driveline: Euro 6 speed, 3.64 diff w/ 40% Lockup, Rogue Octane SSK, UUC Red TME kit, UUC Stage 3 LTW Flywheel/M5 Clutch, SS Shift Knob
    Suspension & Brakes: TC Kline True Match Coilovers 500f/500r w/ adjustable camber plates, Racing Dynamics sways, Custom front sway endlinks, ATE fluid, UUC/Willwood BBK 6 piston f - 4 piston r , Slotted E46M3 Rotors, Stainless Lines, Strong Strut, IE Subframe & adjustable rear trailing arm bushings
    ICE & Misc: Projector Z's w/DDE & 5k HID, 19'' Gold HRE C20's, Custom Aux pwr outlet, footwell lighting, ACS Splitters, Areo Sideskirts, Custom gauge pods, Z8 Start, Pioneer AVIC Z3, Clarus Components, 10" RE Sub in a Mister-X Enclosure, Alpine PDX 4X150 + 1X600 Amps
    Coming soon: and a visit to Randy Forbes

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    On a boat
    Posts
    1,890
    My Cars
    A soulless IS250
    Well this looks familiar...

    this is what was broken on mine yesterday:



    going to try to weld it today if possible. Anyone know if this is part is just potmetal or is it stamped sheet metal? It looks like stamped and coated so I think I can just grind it, weld it, and paint it. The part that looks like a woman's leg (perv alert!) is spot welded to the part that had the teeth. pretty poor design (except that part of it looks like a woman's leg which is never a bad thing...).
    Last edited by GBimmer; 01-17-2009 at 12:20 PM.
    protip: If you're reading the post above, it's probably a joke.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Sac CA
    Posts
    21
    My Cars
    1999 M Coupe
    Anyone have an idea of what may be the prob with my driver's side lock:

    It WILL open and lock via the key, but it's "sluggish". By that I mean, just not as crisp of a "pop" into/out of the lock position as the passenger door. I feel like I have to "lock/unlock" it 2x to really get it up/down.

    And please no grief about the lack of cool profile pics/quotes...I finally gathered enough scratch for my dream M coupe...so I'm working a lot of overtime! Ha!

  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2002
    Location
    SW Florida
    Posts
    12,682
    My Cars
    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M

    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by enigmalss View Post
    Anyone have an idea of what may be the prob with my driver's side lock:

    It WILL open and lock via the key, but it's "sluggish". By that I mean, just not as crisp of a "pop" into/out of the lock position as the passenger door. I feel like I have to "lock/unlock" it 2x to really get it up/down.

    And please no grief about the lack of cool profile pics/quotes...I finally gathered enough scratch for my dream M coupe...so I'm working a lot of overtime! Ha!
    Sounds like it could use a light degreasing (cleaning of dried/hardened grease/parafin)and lubricating with some light oil.

    You'll probably have to get inside the door to do that, but I wouldn't recommend removing any components, just the interior panel (careful around the fastener clips, as they will pull out of the panel easily.

    Try spraying some brake parts cleaner in through the latch opening first though__while protecting the surrounding trim areas__as you might get lucky. Follow that up with a light lithium spray oil, applied the same way.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •