Just posting up some useful data (links & pics) for anyone doing door work in the future.
Ron Stygar has the TIS procedure and inner door panel fasteners here: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/int...oor_panel.html
Including this money-saving shot:
The remainder are from my work in the past couple of days:
Continued...
Last edited by Randy Forbes; 01-16-2009 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Continued:
Excellent reference photos.
What was the issue you were working on? My driver-side lock actuator has been acting up sporadically (usually when it is coldest outside), so I may be doing something similar before long.
As an aside, do you have a method for getting the door panels seated correctly at the top? Last time I had mine off, I had to fight it for a lot longer than I would have expected.
Wow, Randy - thanks for all the photos. Those will come in handy!
+1 on any tips regarding putting the door panels back in.
99 MC Imola/Blk 136K miles (SOLD 01/2011)
Currently driving 2005 Scion xA
Randy with more photos, you are the king... Thanks Randy.
Thanks Randy. Do you have the part number for the cover plate tool?
Your definition of "cold" isn't carrying much weight with me right now (BELOW ZERO HERE).
His key wouldn't unlock from the driver's side. I bent the connecting rod slightly to take out the slack, and it's working again.
On this car (Coupe) I actually used some Gummi-Phlege to lube the (hidden) top of the panel (under the rubber seal) and on the seal where it goes onto the door; the seal is attached to the panel and then slipped onto the door while holding the lower part out about a foot (12"). A "weak" dishwashing soap solution would accomplish the same feat.
I stood on the outside of the door and kept my hands away from the front of the bag. I was more concerned about removing the plug...
I didn't have time to get a replacement, as he's due to arrive tomorrow. But it does look like it's a listed part, so anyone thinking about doing this work should probably get them in advance (one__1__per side).
Have to worry about how to change then...
Not offhand (might be in Ron's link above) but honestly, it would be so easy to make one.
Last edited by Randy Forbes; 01-16-2009 at 01:17 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
That's alright. You can get your kicks in when I'm complaining in July.
I made one out of a heavy-gauge wire hanger. Nowhere near as elegant as the official tool, but it worked the couple times I needed to use it. The flat edges on the official tool would make it much easier to use than mine.
Pin tool is now $76.74r
Hook tool is now $34.51r
Last edited by Ron Stygar; 01-16-2009 at 06:48 PM.
Islands62 Hook tool:
Bondo dent puller from NAPA $5.00 (looks exactly like special tool above, except no finished edge)
IslandS62 Pin tool:
Needle nose pliers inserted into 2 of the notches of door lock retaining ring.
Thanks for the post, and photos though, great info!
997 Carrera 2S..the choice of 2 out of 3 Top Gear presenters.
Thank you for the great post!
My drivers side door lock has stopped working and I was nervous about taking the handle out because of my lack of knowledge. (I got through the window sliders when working with the door but nothing further) So thanks for posting all of the pictures now I feel like I can tackle this.
I sacrificed an 8-point 11/16" socket (that's never been used in 35+ years) and about a half-hour's time.
I used those to get the nut off (hence the double-layer of tape). But, I wanted to make sure is was on securely before the guy heads back to Virginia; and with no scratches in the door!
I'm all for using what you've got, I just happen to be better equipped than your average enthusiast
this is most excellent. my key will no longer unlock the passenger door.
.
Thanks for all of the detailed shots' and specs Ron and Randy.
2002 Alpine White w/ Black 368 (<OO \(||][||)/ OO>)
Power: Custom Exhaust w/ High Flow cats, CSL headers, built, low-compression Supercharged and aftercooled S-54, ViPEC standalone ECU, Vortech V2 Si trim
Driveline: Euro 6 speed, 3.64 diff w/ 40% Lockup, Rogue Octane SSK, UUC Red TME kit, UUC Stage 3 LTW Flywheel/M5 Clutch, SS Shift Knob
Suspension & Brakes: TC Kline True Match Coilovers 500f/500r w/ adjustable camber plates, Racing Dynamics sways, Custom front sway endlinks, ATE fluid, UUC/Willwood BBK 6 piston f - 4 piston r , Slotted E46M3 Rotors, Stainless Lines, Strong Strut, IE Subframe & adjustable rear trailing arm bushings
ICE & Misc: Projector Z's w/DDE & 5k HID, 19'' Gold HRE C20's, Custom Aux pwr outlet, footwell lighting, ACS Splitters, Areo Sideskirts, Custom gauge pods, Z8 Start, Pioneer AVIC Z3, Clarus Components, 10" RE Sub in a Mister-X Enclosure, Alpine PDX 4X150 + 1X600 Amps
Coming soon: and a visit to Randy Forbes
Well this looks familiar...
this is what was broken on mine yesterday:
going to try to weld it today if possible. Anyone know if this is part is just potmetal or is it stamped sheet metal? It looks like stamped and coated so I think I can just grind it, weld it, and paint it. The part that looks like a woman's leg (perv alert!) is spot welded to the part that had the teeth. pretty poor design (except that part of it looks like a woman's leg which is never a bad thing...).
Last edited by GBimmer; 01-17-2009 at 12:20 PM.
protip: If you're reading the post above, it's probably a joke.
Anyone have an idea of what may be the prob with my driver's side lock:
It WILL open and lock via the key, but it's "sluggish". By that I mean, just not as crisp of a "pop" into/out of the lock position as the passenger door. I feel like I have to "lock/unlock" it 2x to really get it up/down.
And please no grief about the lack of cool profile pics/quotes...I finally gathered enough scratch for my dream M coupe...so I'm working a lot of overtime! Ha!
Sounds like it could use a light degreasing (cleaning of dried/hardened grease/parafin)and lubricating with some light oil.
You'll probably have to get inside the door to do that, but I wouldn't recommend removing any components, just the interior panel (careful around the fastener clips, as they will pull out of the panel easily.
Try spraying some brake parts cleaner in through the latch opening first though__while protecting the surrounding trim areas__as you might get lucky. Follow that up with a light lithium spray oil, applied the same way.
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