Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 29

Thread: New Suspension--Done!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3

    New Suspension--Done!

    Hello all, after much research and advice from many great people on here, I decided to tackle my suspension upgrade. I ordered up all my parts, LCA's, LCAB's, tie rods, inner and outer, new shocks and springs and sway bar links. I started yesterday and it went slowly mostly because I didn't really know where to start and the spring compressors wouldn't fit up beside the spring because of the little clearance thats in there. Today I tackled the passenger side and it went much smoother, not to mention faster. I tried to get pictures when and where I could where I thought they could serve a purpose or show someone anything. Forgive me if I jump around here and there, but you'll get it.

    This is a pic of removing the lower strut bolts that attach to the hub/rotor assembly. All this is made sooo much easier with the assistance of an impact wrench!


    Okay out with the old! Wasn't that bad getting that out of there, the worst part was actually getting the abs sensor and brake line out of the way and around the strut.


    Got that old tired strut apart. Not too bad! That compressor took a loooot of wrenching, thanks to the impact!

    Spring installed on new Bilstien. Isn't she sexy?

    This is the way I had to go the get that inner ball joint nut. I tell ya, this side was a helluva lot easier than the driver side!! That u-joint made it soo easy though! BTW--a 7/8 socket will do here if you are like me and only have a 1/2 drive impact!

    Out with the old LCA! It wasn't really that bad; the worst part was really figuring out what to do with that hub/rotor assembly once you free that outer ball joint. I didn't want to just leave it hang by the brake line and didn't want to disconnect the abs sensor in fear of a check light.

    Old tired, worn and busted bushing, GONE! I stabbed what rubber remained and twisted off the lollipop. Then cut the metal housing of the bushing with a hacksaw and pried it out with a little persuasion from the old hammer.

    Pressing in the new bushing, taking care to have it equal on each side of the carrier. You can get it only so far, then you have to use spacers such as this to get it the rest of the way.

    New LCA installed and damn those bushings were a Royal PITA to get onto the LCA! A lil help from Dawn dish soap did the trick but it still took a lot of twisting and pushing.

    Helloooo Beautiful!!!

    Ass shot of that secksay biatch! By this time I've got the new tie rod installed too, and just going over everything to make sure nothing was overlooked.

    New LCA

    This is a comparison of tie rods. Come to find out, this is a tie rod from a 7 series (or so I was told)!! The one on the bottom is the passenger side and that's what they should look like. No wonder my steering was shaky and awry!!

    Just another comparison; the one on the top is new obviously, making sure the new one is roughly the same length as the old one.

    Old 7 series DOH! Tie Rod, along side the correct application tie rod.

    Box of old parts as if that's not obvious! Don't let the door hitcha on your way out!

    All done! I know, I know, she's dirty but I'll clean it all up! I think the yellow compiments the green very well!

    Her new stance! I think the front will settle in within a 100 miles or so, or that's what I hear.

    So give me some feedback fellas! Thanks for all the help with parts and support with the technicals!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    South OC, CA
    Posts
    1,911
    My Cars
    E36
    She must ride like new! It'll settle after a few weeks.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    merritt island florida
    Posts
    3,849
    My Cars
    1997 328is AA SC
    looks good--excellent choice in shocks

    Far too much to list

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    Yeah I thought my struts were gone because when I went over humps in the road, the car seemed to float for a quarter of a mile! They weren't gone, they were DEAD! Geez were they bad, little to no resistance on the shock. Completely riding on the springs.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Arab, AL
    Posts
    7,264
    My Cars
    '97 328i/6, '89f150
    awesome, it's always nice to complete a project.
    -ducky


  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by LongBeachM3 View Post
    She must ride like new! It'll settle after a few weeks.
    I haven't driven it yet; I got the tie rods pretty close but didn't want to drive it 40 miles away to my home and back in the morning to get an alignment. So, there she sits in my company's shop til the morn! I drove a company truck home tonight.

  7. #7
    evan328is's Avatar
    evan328is is offline 1 active member. BMW CCA Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Lake Mary, FL
    Posts
    1,222
    My Cars
    ///Alpine 328iS
    looks like some hard work, good job. i like the yellow.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Portland, Oregon
    Posts
    3,199
    My Cars
    S14 VQ, E46, 1g Insight
    Hey, I'm doing the control arms and tie-rods now. How did you remove the two? I tried wedging a pickle fork between the hub and the dust boot but the tie-rod didn't budge at all.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    Uhm....I used two different pickle forks. They're different angles and one's a little wider than the other. Use the small one for the tie rod and the wider one for the ball joint. They should separate rather easily. The passenger side sucked for me because is was original, but the driver side almost fell out when I took the nut off, I literally hit it like a half a hit and it fell off.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    60517
    Posts
    5,195
    My Cars
    94 325i, 95 M3, 1997 325
    Quote Originally Posted by Bris328is View Post
    looks good--excellent choice in shocks

    +1 It will settle very nicely now it just needs a nice wash
    Washedit1 by thedude60526, on Flickr
    11/10's Racing
    94 325i #36/64 TEAM PENISTON OILS/ LARSENS BISCUITS

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    Thanks! Yeah, I drove it to work Wednesday in the rain..boooo, but I'll clean it up nice now that she's worthy


    It looks happy now

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Arab, AL
    Posts
    7,264
    My Cars
    '97 328i/6, '89f150
    Quote Originally Posted by Stealthyfish View Post
    Hey, I'm doing the control arms and tie-rods now. How did you remove the two? I tried wedging a pickle fork between the hub and the dust boot but the tie-rod didn't budge at all.
    use a bigger hammer.
    -ducky


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Indiana
    Posts
    1,848
    My Cars
    96' 328i
    I love the pictures. Great thread!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Fort Collins, CO
    Posts
    533
    My Cars
    1992 325i
    oo nice up skirt shots

    Good work!

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    91
    My Cars
    1997 M3/2/5
    Just finished that upgrade myself, tossed in new sway-links/bushings and some sport springs as well. Dish soap ftw

    Some fond memories involving a pickle-fork, 2lb sledge, and those cursed ball-joints..

    Great choice of equipment (maybe I missed it, did you go with sports or heavy duty?). Once you get it aligned, go find some twisties -- the new ride will blow you away.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    Thanks for the compliments! I went with the Sports. I just got back from my buddy's shop and unfortunately, he told me I need camber plates. DOH! Guess I'll get them after the holidays and get in there again. I'm not sure how they do the alignment without the camber plates on a regular suspension, let alone a lowered set up; basically unsure of the procedure of the bolt adjustment he referred to. Anybody shine some light on this for me? The toe is dead on perfect and steering response is quick and precise now.

    So, where do I get the camber kit and how does it install?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    91
    My Cars
    1997 M3/2/5
    Weird, I lowered mine another inch from stock (sport) height, no camber plates necessary. Only thing I had to do for the alignment was make sure the trunk was empty (aside from the spare), and the gas tank was full. Anyone got any ideas as to why he would need them on a non-lowered setup?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    No, I am lowered; I'm running Eibach's Pro Kit that drops 1.3" all the way around and Bilstien Sports. He didn't say anything about the rear alignment. I'm just curious as to how they adjust camber on a normal stock suspension and then on a lowered one. I know the rear is adjustable by the LCA's, but I didn't think the front was that adjustable. I knew about camber plates and camber kits but wasn't changing the geometry that drastically so I didn't order them. Although he didn't align it with me or anyone in the car that I know of. Think that could have mattered that much?

    Anyways, where is the best place to buy and how to install??

    Thanks!!

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Bay Area, CA
    Posts
    1,390
    My Cars
    M3
    nice thread, well done and good luck

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Bay Area, California
    Posts
    1,733
    My Cars
    E36 & E46
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillips0417 View Post
    No, I am lowered; I'm running Eibach's Pro Kit that drops 1.3" all the way around and Bilstien Sports. He didn't say anything about the rear alignment. I'm just curious as to how they adjust camber on a normal stock suspension and then on a lowered one. I know the rear is adjustable by the LCA's, but I didn't think the front was that adjustable. I knew about camber plates and camber kits but wasn't changing the geometry that drastically so I didn't order them. Although he didn't align it with me or anyone in the car that I know of. Think that could have mattered that much?

    Anyways, where is the best place to buy and how to install??

    Thanks!!
    On the stock suspension, only the front toe, rear toe, and rear camber can be adjusted.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    .
    Posts
    3,368
    My Cars
    .
    Very nice. I'll be tackling both front and rear LCAs in a month or two.
    "Fist in the air and a finger to the sky.
    Do I care if you hate me?
    Do you wanna know the truth?
    C'est la vie,
    Adiós,
    Good riddance,
    F--- you.

    I'm under and over it all."

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Las Vegas, NV
    Posts
    636
    My Cars
    TURBO M52
    that's awesome pics! how much total did it run you for all parts except shocks/struts and springs?

    subscribed!
    97 Euro M3 S50B32

  23. #23
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    Quote Originally Posted by rsy124 View Post
    On the stock suspension, only the front toe, rear toe, and rear camber can be adjusted.
    Okay, thanks for the info! I'll be ordering probably from UUC. They look like they're well built and look nice too. Just to clarify, they replace the upper bearings right?

    Quote Originally Posted by LTCol View Post
    that's awesome pics! how much total did it run you for all parts except shocks/struts and springs?

    subscribed!
    Thanks!! All the parts:

    Left & Right LCA's
    2 LCAB's
    Left & Right Tie Rods (inner and outer)
    New locking plates for the tie rods
    2 Front Sway Bar Links

    All parts from Bavauto and they ran around $400. I opted for the full metal ball joints so they'll be good for a while. I got the shocks and struts from a fellow member on here that had an accident and was parting out the car. He only had them for 1000 miles and they were perfectly fine! I picked them up for $400 shipped from Cali.
    Last edited by Phillips0417; 12-14-2008 at 03:19 PM. Reason: Wrong Vendor for Camber Plates

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    merritt island florida
    Posts
    3,849
    My Cars
    1997 328is AA SC
    Quote Originally Posted by Phillips0417 View Post
    Okay, thanks for the info! I'll be ordering probably from Turners. They look like they're well built and look nice too. Just to clarify, they replace the upper bearings right?



    Thanks!! All the parts:

    Left & Right LCA's
    2 LCAB's
    Left & Right Tie Rods (inner and outer)
    New locking plates for the tie rods
    2 Front Sway Bar Links

    All parts from Bavauto and they ran around $400. I opted for the full metal ball joints so they'll be good for a while. I got the shocks and struts from a fellow member on here that had an accident and was parting out the car. He only had them for 1000 miles and they were perfectly fine! I picked them up for $400 shipped from Cali.
    are you buying camber plates?

    Far too much to list

  25. #25
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Waco, TX
    Posts
    3,113
    My Cars
    E46 M3
    No, I didn't order them because I only lowered 1.3" and didn't think they would be necessary because I wasn't changing the geometry that drastically. Now, I guess I need them with my set-up, so I'll order them and install after the holidays.

    Are you running them? Should I be? Are they that critical other than accelerated tire wear? Thanks Brian!

    Jason

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •