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Thread: coolant system bleeding trouble.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    durango, colorado, usa
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    87 e30 325is

    coolant system bleeding trouble.

    Hey guys, I just replaced my coolant temp switch and was bleeding my system when for about 10 minutes nothing but steam came out of the plug. fearing the worst, I closed the bleed valve, and turned off the car... does anyone out there know what might be going on? is this by anymeans normal? Its a 1987 325is by the way. Thanks!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    Martinsburg, WV
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    01 530i 02 325Xi BEV EVC
    Quote Originally Posted by e30master View Post
    Hey guys, I just replaced my coolant temp switch and was bleeding my system when for about 10 minutes nothing but steam came out of the plug. fearing the worst, I closed the bleed valve, and turned off the car... does anyone out there know what might be going on? is this by anymeans normal? Its a 1987 325is by the way. Thanks!
    Perhaps the bleed valve wasn't open enough and/or the coolant temp was too high? Water turns to steam at 212 degrees Fahrenheit. If the system isn't closed, then steam will escape to atmosphere where ever possible.

    I have had good success bleeding by getting the nose of the car up as high as possible (ramps work great) and filling via the overflow tank. The engine is then run with the temp dial turned full hot, with fan on high and vents set to defrost. When warm air starts coming out the defroster vents, then the bleed valve is opened until it just about falls out. Usually less than a quarter cup of fluid sputters out before going to steady stream state. The bleed valve is closed as soon as a steady stream of coolant comes out.

    I suppose a blown head gasket can cause an inordinate amount of air in the coolant system. Hopefully this is not the case.

    Joe M in WV

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
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    durango, colorado, usa
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    My Cars
    87 e30 325is
    hey thanks a lot! i'll try that now! if my head gasket was blown wouldnt i be able to tell rather easily... ex. oil everywhere, creamy gunk in the valve cover etc...? Thanks again!

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Huntsville, AL
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    87 325is
    Try this as the bleed procedure:

    1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
    the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
    on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

    2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
    the bleed.

    3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
    temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
    in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
    up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
    warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
    up the coolant as necessary.

    4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
    several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
    this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
    indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
    repeat this a few times to get all the air out.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Warrington,Pa,Usa
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    1985 335e, 1979 528i
    Honestly this thread is some of the best advice i have seen here in a while. I was just about to start searching and this popped up!

    now how about the same kinda walk thru for the clutch

    Thank you guys!

    Need Illustration or Design work? www.robbiebyerly.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    94062
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    '71 Bavaria
    yeah, it took a good hour to bleed my e30! best of luck

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    durango, colorado, usa
    Posts
    43
    My Cars
    87 e30 325is
    Ok guys thanks again! I think I got her bled!

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